Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
07-21-2005 | 02:10 AM
#3051
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From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
i think you have to put it on the video site & link to it. there is a video thread on here, you could ask someone on there.
07-21-2005 | 07:46 AM
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From: staten island, NY
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
alright, i shaved a 1/2 mb off, and fit it on this server. remember, i'm no professional. there is no sound on my camera, so i had to add music...
http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=evader-movie-2
http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=evader-movie-2
07-21-2005 | 07:57 AM
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From: Wausau,
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RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
Sweet video, i have not had mine doing wheelies yet. On tank 9, just about prime time(tank 10) from what i hear/read. Any tips? I will try leaning it out a bit. How bout the BX gear? that would be less torqe and more speed right? maybe i have that concept backwards and schould get a BX spur gear... Please advise...
07-21-2005 | 08:07 AM
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From: staten island, NY
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
ORIGINAL: Thrasher187
Sweet video, i have not had mine doing wheelies yet. On tank 9, just about prime time(tank 10) from what i hear/read. Any tips? I will try leaning it out a bit. How bout the BX gear? that would be less torqe and more speed right? maybe i have that concept backwards and schould get a BX spur gear... Please advise...
Sweet video, i have not had mine doing wheelies yet. On tank 9, just about prime time(tank 10) from what i hear/read. Any tips? I will try leaning it out a bit. How bout the BX gear? that would be less torqe and more speed right? maybe i have that concept backwards and schould get a BX spur gear... Please advise...
just out of curiosity, did the first link work for you?[sm=confused.gif]
its strange. i could never do wheelies, then one day, from then on, that's all it will do. the motor seems to run better and better the more i drive it. i got it for christmas, and just finished the first gallon of gas. i wouldn't lean it too much, especially in the summer. drive it and it will continue to improve power ( i can't explain why).
i got the bx gears for top end, but this engine still has enough to pull the wheels. it's actually pulling them up, way after the dead start. with the stock gears , i imagine i'd flip it within 6 feet.
the camera didn't get it, but there was this scene where it pulls a wheelie (about 25 feet out), slides upside down anothe 10 feet, then flips back over and keeps going. i was yelling to my pop, "did you get that?"
07-21-2005 | 08:13 AM
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From: staten island, NY
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
yeah. now that i'm thinking about it, i may have the stock spur on. definitely bx clutchbell... let me go count the teeth[X(]
07-21-2005 | 01:12 PM
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From: billericay, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
im having big trouble getting mine started it just wont start you wcan sometime hear it trying to start but it just wont go any body help me
07-21-2005 | 01:37 PM
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From: Wausau,
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RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
make sure your glow starter is STRONG, also try replacing the glow plug if it does not glow very well. then try to lean the air/fuel mix a tad. what is your needle valves currently set at?
what is everyone else running theres at? i know this may vary, post number of tanks along to give a good idea of settings he should try.
i am at 1 1/8 for high speed and default for low speed on 9 tanks of fuel
what is everyone else running theres at? i know this may vary, post number of tanks along to give a good idea of settings he should try.
i am at 1 1/8 for high speed and default for low speed on 9 tanks of fuel
07-21-2005 | 01:58 PM
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From: Wausau,
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RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
visit http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/index.html and download the manual. read the section on needle valves
i think the default out of the box the high speed is set at 2 turns out and the low speed is 1 1/2 turns
after breaking the high speed should be set at 1 1/4 - 1 3/8
for more read the carburetors setting section.. good luck
i think the default out of the box the high speed is set at 2 turns out and the low speed is 1 1/2 turns
after breaking the high speed should be set at 1 1/4 - 1 3/8
for more read the carburetors setting section.. good luck
07-21-2005 | 02:29 PM
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From: billericay, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
i did the same and mine wont start ive only had it started 4 time but it took me ages to start it can any 1 give me help on wat to do
07-21-2005 | 02:43 PM
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From: Wausau,
WI
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
did you purchase this car used?
my hobbie store sells a conversion to repace the pull start so that you can use a drill to turn the engine..
look into one of these. like $20
also you can try replace the piston head and sleeve, i have never done it.. any one here? any success(good as new?)?
my hobbie store sells a conversion to repace the pull start so that you can use a drill to turn the engine..
look into one of these. like $20
also you can try replace the piston head and sleeve, i have never done it.. any one here? any success(good as new?)?
07-21-2005 | 02:52 PM
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From: Edmonton ,
AB, CANADA
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
Im do not know a ton about RC's in particular, but most small engines are reletivly the same. If the Engine sounds like it wants to fire but just wont. Theres a few places to check...
-Glow Plug
-Glow plug Starter (wires/battery)
-Fuel line/Filter
-Possibly Old Fuel?
Or the Engine is flooded. Usually when an engine is close to starting but just wont, in my experiance its flooded. For my DTX.18, I find if its flooded, to NOT Prime it, and just pull like a thousand times, not faster or Harder, but more times...until it sounds alittle different.
Like, when you try to start it with the throttle open alittle bit you can hear the difference VS when you have no throttle on. They may sound like the throttle is open if its flooded.
If its trying to start, usually nothing major is wrong with it. Again, im no RC mechanic, nor Paid mechanic. This is just my experiance.
-Glow Plug
-Glow plug Starter (wires/battery)
-Fuel line/Filter
-Possibly Old Fuel?
Or the Engine is flooded. Usually when an engine is close to starting but just wont, in my experiance its flooded. For my DTX.18, I find if its flooded, to NOT Prime it, and just pull like a thousand times, not faster or Harder, but more times...until it sounds alittle different.
Like, when you try to start it with the throttle open alittle bit you can hear the difference VS when you have no throttle on. They may sound like the throttle is open if its flooded.
If its trying to start, usually nothing major is wrong with it. Again, im no RC mechanic, nor Paid mechanic. This is just my experiance.
07-21-2005 | 05:41 PM
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From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
make sure your air filter isn't soaked in fuel aswell. the engne needs 3 things glow on the plug, fuel & air. too much or too little of one & it won't start. try pinching the fuel line closed while you pull the starter cord, if it is flooded it will help it get going. also try starting it with the fuel filter off & see if it helps, but don't drive it round without the filter on, you'll suck in some dust & ruin the engine.
FGA, the first link worked for me when i hit the Here button to save as.
FGA, the first link worked for me when i hit the Here button to save as.
07-21-2005 | 09:27 PM
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From: Greer,
SC
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
Here you guys go i just ordered mine http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...roducts_id=137
07-21-2005 | 11:13 PM
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From: Derry,
NH
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
Couple questions about the tuning...
What is the default idle screw position? Where are your trucks at?
Basically I want to retune the whole carb. So I am going to start with default high (2 turns out) low (1 1/2 turns out) and default idle.
Where do I go from here? Adjust the high speed till it runs good at full throttle, then adjust low, then idle?
Please advise as I really want this thing to run better, it stalls a lot! I can't use my brakes...
What is the default idle screw position? Where are your trucks at?
Basically I want to retune the whole carb. So I am going to start with default high (2 turns out) low (1 1/2 turns out) and default idle.
Where do I go from here? Adjust the high speed till it runs good at full throttle, then adjust low, then idle?
Please advise as I really want this thing to run better, it stalls a lot! I can't use my brakes...
07-22-2005 | 06:56 AM
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From: St. Thomas, ON, CANADA
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
Huge post warning. Factory needle settings, and a tuning guide:
ORIGINAL: Hobby_Services
The initial settings for the carburetor of your DuraTrax .18 engine are easy to set.
First, close the high-speed needle valve and open it 2-1/4 turns out from closed. This is the initial setting, and is a rich setting. You will have to lean the engine from this point as you drive the car.
To set the idle mixture needle, which is the grey screw in the center of the throttle arm, inside the chrome barrel, you must be able to see into the carburetor. Remove the air cleaner from the carb so you can see what you are doing.
Open the throttle to the full-open position. Inside, you can see the idle needle and the fuel nozzle. Adjust the idle mixture screw until you have a gap of 2mm to 3mm between the needle and the nozzle when the carburetor is fully opened. You double-check this by looking at the head of the idle mixture screw. It should be sticking out of the chromed barrel by about 1/32". This is an initial setting, and is a bit rich.
When you start the car, you can leave the clip-on battery attached to the glow plug for some initial running. As you run the car, it will be a bit rough. Adjust the high-speed needle until it just stops running rough. You can then adjust the idle mixture needle and the carburetor throttle opening until you can have the car stopped, but with the engine running smoothly. If you release the brake or stop holding onto the car, it may tend to ease forwards, just like a full-size automobile with an automatic transmission. This tells you that you have the correct setting.
Now go out and enjoy running your R/C gas car with your DuraTrax engine!
The initial settings for the carburetor of your DuraTrax .18 engine are easy to set.
First, close the high-speed needle valve and open it 2-1/4 turns out from closed. This is the initial setting, and is a rich setting. You will have to lean the engine from this point as you drive the car.
To set the idle mixture needle, which is the grey screw in the center of the throttle arm, inside the chrome barrel, you must be able to see into the carburetor. Remove the air cleaner from the carb so you can see what you are doing.
Open the throttle to the full-open position. Inside, you can see the idle needle and the fuel nozzle. Adjust the idle mixture screw until you have a gap of 2mm to 3mm between the needle and the nozzle when the carburetor is fully opened. You double-check this by looking at the head of the idle mixture screw. It should be sticking out of the chromed barrel by about 1/32". This is an initial setting, and is a bit rich.
When you start the car, you can leave the clip-on battery attached to the glow plug for some initial running. As you run the car, it will be a bit rough. Adjust the high-speed needle until it just stops running rough. You can then adjust the idle mixture needle and the carburetor throttle opening until you can have the car stopped, but with the engine running smoothly. If you release the brake or stop holding onto the car, it may tend to ease forwards, just like a full-size automobile with an automatic transmission. This tells you that you have the correct setting.
Now go out and enjoy running your R/C gas car with your DuraTrax engine!
ORIGINAL: Frost_
The issue of tuning comes up frequently, so I thought I'd modify a piece I did about big-block tuning that has been floating around the Savage forum. A variation of this was told to me a while back.
Guys, FORGET about asking what other's settings are, once you do this a few times you can take any old strange engine (meaning one that is working, but unfamiliar to you) and start from nothing, that is, knowing NO settings and get the most out of it.
For some reason even in the mags when they tell you "how to tune", they have you pinching the fuel line and timing the result in seconds to "set" your LSN. No doubt this is a good way to get in the ballpark, but it is FAR from precise.
The following will asume that you have your top-end tuned to a decent temp. range for your normal style of driving. If you AREN'T running lean (stuttering, you hear it, you know what it is) you can very safely tune the top-end to 250-260 with no reduced life (AGAIN this is if it isn't going LEAN). This temp. is a range for many, but not all smallblocks. Some like to be run even hotter (TRX 2.5 makes it's best power at 275F +) Once you get the top-end set here is how to really make it take off fast. If you are heavy-fingered this may be better for the pavement. Before you begin tuning the LSn, get the engine up to operating temperature first.
1. Since off the line "snap" can be given or taken away by being lean OR rich on the LSN the first move is a guess (well it won't be after you get a feel for it, but this will get you going quickly)...
2. Pull the truck up in front of you and let it idle for 8 seconds. Then pull the trigger to WOT... Did it scream and take off? If no:
3. You have to go one way or the other... choose richer or leaner (suprisingly to many beginners, off the line stutters can be caused by too lean conditions just as easily as too rich) and turn the LSN in that direction 1/16th of a turn. Make a short pass at medium to high throttle and return the truck to in front of you.
4. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor the throttle. Did it take off better or worse? If better, turn it a 1/16 in the same direction, if it got worse, turn it 1/8th the OPPOSITE way. Either direction you started in, now you will be going one way based on whether it got better or not... either richer or leaner.
5. Make another short pass at medium to full throttle (AFTER you made the change to the LSN) and return the truck to you. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor it. Is it still getting better? If so, continue to lean or richen using the pass/idle 8 seconds method until you lose preformance and back up a step...
If your temps are in range this is how to quickly get your truck to "explode" off of the line... Always make the pass to clear out the engine and then let it idle 8 seconds. The idling will allow it to either lean out or load up, depending on which way the current settings are off... Get the hang of this and your truck can really take off. If you end up leaning the LSN out excessively make sure to keep an eye on temps, your top end needle may need a bit of enrichment.
Copy this text and print it out if you need. Once you have done this you will realize how you are affecting positive change and it only gets easier.
The issue of tuning comes up frequently, so I thought I'd modify a piece I did about big-block tuning that has been floating around the Savage forum. A variation of this was told to me a while back.
Guys, FORGET about asking what other's settings are, once you do this a few times you can take any old strange engine (meaning one that is working, but unfamiliar to you) and start from nothing, that is, knowing NO settings and get the most out of it.
For some reason even in the mags when they tell you "how to tune", they have you pinching the fuel line and timing the result in seconds to "set" your LSN. No doubt this is a good way to get in the ballpark, but it is FAR from precise.
The following will asume that you have your top-end tuned to a decent temp. range for your normal style of driving. If you AREN'T running lean (stuttering, you hear it, you know what it is) you can very safely tune the top-end to 250-260 with no reduced life (AGAIN this is if it isn't going LEAN). This temp. is a range for many, but not all smallblocks. Some like to be run even hotter (TRX 2.5 makes it's best power at 275F +) Once you get the top-end set here is how to really make it take off fast. If you are heavy-fingered this may be better for the pavement. Before you begin tuning the LSn, get the engine up to operating temperature first.
1. Since off the line "snap" can be given or taken away by being lean OR rich on the LSN the first move is a guess (well it won't be after you get a feel for it, but this will get you going quickly)...
2. Pull the truck up in front of you and let it idle for 8 seconds. Then pull the trigger to WOT... Did it scream and take off? If no:
3. You have to go one way or the other... choose richer or leaner (suprisingly to many beginners, off the line stutters can be caused by too lean conditions just as easily as too rich) and turn the LSN in that direction 1/16th of a turn. Make a short pass at medium to high throttle and return the truck to in front of you.
4. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor the throttle. Did it take off better or worse? If better, turn it a 1/16 in the same direction, if it got worse, turn it 1/8th the OPPOSITE way. Either direction you started in, now you will be going one way based on whether it got better or not... either richer or leaner.
5. Make another short pass at medium to full throttle (AFTER you made the change to the LSN) and return the truck to you. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor it. Is it still getting better? If so, continue to lean or richen using the pass/idle 8 seconds method until you lose preformance and back up a step...
If your temps are in range this is how to quickly get your truck to "explode" off of the line... Always make the pass to clear out the engine and then let it idle 8 seconds. The idling will allow it to either lean out or load up, depending on which way the current settings are off... Get the hang of this and your truck can really take off. If you end up leaning the LSN out excessively make sure to keep an eye on temps, your top end needle may need a bit of enrichment.
Copy this text and print it out if you need. Once you have done this you will realize how you are affecting positive change and it only gets easier.
07-22-2005 | 01:41 PM
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From: Derry,
NH
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
Ok here is what is going on...
I have the high speed perfect, runs awesome.
Problem is idle and braking.
The idle adjust on my remote is slightly high, so the servo is not perfectly straight, its always holding the throttle open a little.
When I pinch the fuel line the engine revs up a few seconds after.
It is constantly vibrating the clutch bell, as if it is slightly engaged, and sounds like it is running too high.
Yet when I hit the brake, it stalls out, I can't hit the brake more than half or it stalls.
Let me tell you this tho, I have the HSN dialed in tight. I was poppin so many wheelies I need to loosen the slipper! Absolutely crazy!
Oh it is sputtering a little bit when it changes speeds, like idle down after high speed run. What is the default setting for the LSN? I have gotten answers on the high but not low, and I just realized how to set the idle by looking inside.
Thanks for the answers again guys.
Oh btw, has anyone moved their battery box up in front of the receiver box? I figure it will put more weight to the front for better steering and stop trashing it when I pop wheelies. I think it would give better weight balance.
I have the high speed perfect, runs awesome.
Problem is idle and braking.
The idle adjust on my remote is slightly high, so the servo is not perfectly straight, its always holding the throttle open a little.
When I pinch the fuel line the engine revs up a few seconds after.
It is constantly vibrating the clutch bell, as if it is slightly engaged, and sounds like it is running too high.
Yet when I hit the brake, it stalls out, I can't hit the brake more than half or it stalls.
Let me tell you this tho, I have the HSN dialed in tight. I was poppin so many wheelies I need to loosen the slipper! Absolutely crazy!
Oh it is sputtering a little bit when it changes speeds, like idle down after high speed run. What is the default setting for the LSN? I have gotten answers on the high but not low, and I just realized how to set the idle by looking inside.
Thanks for the answers again guys.
Oh btw, has anyone moved their battery box up in front of the receiver box? I figure it will put more weight to the front for better steering and stop trashing it when I pop wheelies. I think it would give better weight balance.
07-22-2005 | 01:48 PM
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From: Derry,
NH
RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread
Sorry just realized I did know LSN default setting is 1 1/2 turns, forgot! So I need to do that and then adjust idle a bit... Too bad I have to wait till my LHS gets it's order in, I lost a head bolt! They vibrated out!
If I put threadlock on them, I can still get them out later right? It just tightens it up?
Any of you guys have issues with bolts falling out?
Anyone else SHRED their stock tires on the tar? lol... my front tires have strings of rubber falling off and are SO unbalance now.
If I put threadlock on them, I can still get them out later right? It just tightens it up?
Any of you guys have issues with bolts falling out?
Anyone else SHRED their stock tires on the tar? lol... my front tires have strings of rubber falling off and are SO unbalance now.
