Official HPI MT2 Thread
#5576
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From: TokyoTokyo, JAPAN
If I was you and you would not want to continue to fork out mid range prices - which added up are more than the heavy duty parts; I would get the heavy duty final gear for the engine you have lol. From my understanding its more powerful than the 18ss, so I would definitly get them. You should NEVER over shim your gears as the added friction and lack of play will kill them. In saying that, you can create a different atmosphere for the diff in terms of lubricants to help ease the pressure. You can use various weights engine oil or motor bike oils with different viscosities. I have set mine up with a car diff oil and my MT2 diffs are 1/4th filled with this oil so that they are always lubricated. My shims are standard shims with 1 extra...thats it. Bearing in miond that these will not last forever but if you train your self to ease off the throttle so its NOT "WOT" all thime when turning corners, your diffs should last longer.
On pages roughly 200 and below there abouts there was a poster who did the same thing as I did by putting and experimenting with various lubricants and viscosities with his diffs, and he even put a quick refil hole in the top - which is very good if yu have the alum ones and you can fabricate a tapping for the cap; not too hard.
On pages roughly 200 and below there abouts there was a poster who did the same thing as I did by putting and experimenting with various lubricants and viscosities with his diffs, and he even put a quick refil hole in the top - which is very good if yu have the alum ones and you can fabricate a tapping for the cap; not too hard.

ORIGINAL: mkr
Thanks for the advice again [8D]
I'm pretty new in this nitro business..so sorry for all these questions.
The thing is that an engine like O.S. .18 aswell as all other things is quite expensive in Denmark, around 308 $ for O.S. .18, and I need to order it home, so I better be damn sure I can make it fit. Ordering things at towerhobbies just puts on a toll plus high UPS rates, and just makes it even more expensive.
Also I apologize my english, the hardened diffs I mentioned was in fact, HPI final gear set - they came with 3 washers I used, does'nt seem to need additional shimming, but I could be wrong. The differentials are not themsleves hardened as far as I know (stock mt2 ones). So will they be shredded to pieces? I mean, is the O.S. .18 too much still? I don't want to do wheelies and constantly replace ripped drivetrain gears if the engine is too powerful, I just want my truck to have a significant punch without destroying expensive parts all the time.
EDIT: just checked HPI's page.. apparently the diffs are hardened. Sorry for not checking this myself.
Thanks for the advice again [8D]
I'm pretty new in this nitro business..so sorry for all these questions.
The thing is that an engine like O.S. .18 aswell as all other things is quite expensive in Denmark, around 308 $ for O.S. .18, and I need to order it home, so I better be damn sure I can make it fit. Ordering things at towerhobbies just puts on a toll plus high UPS rates, and just makes it even more expensive.
Also I apologize my english, the hardened diffs I mentioned was in fact, HPI final gear set - they came with 3 washers I used, does'nt seem to need additional shimming, but I could be wrong. The differentials are not themsleves hardened as far as I know (stock mt2 ones). So will they be shredded to pieces? I mean, is the O.S. .18 too much still? I don't want to do wheelies and constantly replace ripped drivetrain gears if the engine is too powerful, I just want my truck to have a significant punch without destroying expensive parts all the time.
EDIT: just checked HPI's page.. apparently the diffs are hardened. Sorry for not checking this myself.
#5577
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From: TokyoTokyo, JAPAN
Hey tom_edmondson, If that is your real name...you should be VARY carefull about putting your whole identity on a thread my friend.
BTW, those parts are a must if you intend on beating it a little. Those alum diffs are a DEFINITE must as there is less play in them and they are stronger then the "plastic fantastic" ones. And those GPM front and rear lower arms actually give you an extra inch of travel compared to the old "plastic fantastic" ones aswell - so go for it.
A good place to go for them and becuase its from Hong Kong the price from there to Australia cheaper then getting them in Aus:
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/default.php?language=en
The guy is good and there is no bollocks with orders - they come with no excusses. Stay away from RCmall as its just a hassle and from there to Aus you may have probs...I have and many others as well. But in saying that some have been treated well and received there goods with no probs...? Your choice my friend.
BTW, those parts are a must if you intend on beating it a little. Those alum diffs are a DEFINITE must as there is less play in them and they are stronger then the "plastic fantastic" ones. And those GPM front and rear lower arms actually give you an extra inch of travel compared to the old "plastic fantastic" ones aswell - so go for it.
A good place to go for them and becuase its from Hong Kong the price from there to Australia cheaper then getting them in Aus:
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/default.php?language=en
The guy is good and there is no bollocks with orders - they come with no excusses. Stay away from RCmall as its just a hassle and from there to Aus you may have probs...I have and many others as well. But in saying that some have been treated well and received there goods with no probs...? Your choice my friend.
ORIGINAL: tom_edmondson
hey
Ive had a mt2 for a while and im wanting to get some alloy parts for it, hopefully full alloy when i finish.
I was just wondering wat alloy parts would be good to get for starters. Here is a list of what i was thinking about getting:
1.Front and rear shock towers (GPM)
2.Front and rear arms-upper and lower (GPM)
3.Front and rear hubs (GPM)
4.Front and rear gear boxes (GPM)
5.Steering assembly saver (GPM)
6.Steering plate (GPM)
7.Front and rear dampers (GPM)- do u no if they are any good?
8.Radio plate, servo mount (GPM)
9.Gear box mount (GPM)
10.Front and rear body post (GPM)
11.Radio support mount (GPM)
12.Rear body post mount (GPM)
13.Chassis protector (GPM)
Does anyone have the suspension that shown below, is it any good?
hey
Ive had a mt2 for a while and im wanting to get some alloy parts for it, hopefully full alloy when i finish.
I was just wondering wat alloy parts would be good to get for starters. Here is a list of what i was thinking about getting:
1.Front and rear shock towers (GPM)
2.Front and rear arms-upper and lower (GPM)
3.Front and rear hubs (GPM)
4.Front and rear gear boxes (GPM)
5.Steering assembly saver (GPM)
6.Steering plate (GPM)
7.Front and rear dampers (GPM)- do u no if they are any good?
8.Radio plate, servo mount (GPM)
9.Gear box mount (GPM)
10.Front and rear body post (GPM)
11.Radio support mount (GPM)
12.Rear body post mount (GPM)
13.Chassis protector (GPM)
Does anyone have the suspension that shown below, is it any good?
#5578
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
well some may say they never had problems with the stock HPI final gear set but with the os18 there have bin problems it is a wise choice to upgrade to heavy duty final gears front and back to save hassle,three shims may be enough but i myself am running 4 and that is with my stock t15 my os 18 i have not purchased yet sorry my mistake heavy duty final gears are the ones i ment
ORIGINAL: mkr
Thanks for the advice again [8D]
I'm pretty new in this nitro business..so sorry for all these questions.
The thing is that an engine like O.S. .18 aswell as all other things is quite expensive in Denmark, around 308 $ for O.S. .18, and I need to order it home, so I better be damn sure I can make it fit. Ordering things at towerhobbies just puts on a toll plus high UPS rates, and just makes it even more expensive.
Also I apologize my english, the hardened diffs I mentioned was in fact, HPI final gear set - they came with 3 washers I used, does'nt seem to need additional shimming, but I could be wrong. The differentials are not themsleves hardened as far as I know (stock mt2 ones). So will they be shredded to pieces? I mean, is the O.S. .18 too much still? I don't want to do wheelies and constantly replace ripped drivetrain gears if the engine is too powerful, I just want my truck to have a significant punch without destroying expensive parts all the time.
EDIT: just checked HPI's page.. apparently the diffs are hardened. Sorry for not checking this myself.
Thanks for the advice again [8D]
I'm pretty new in this nitro business..so sorry for all these questions.
The thing is that an engine like O.S. .18 aswell as all other things is quite expensive in Denmark, around 308 $ for O.S. .18, and I need to order it home, so I better be damn sure I can make it fit. Ordering things at towerhobbies just puts on a toll plus high UPS rates, and just makes it even more expensive.
Also I apologize my english, the hardened diffs I mentioned was in fact, HPI final gear set - they came with 3 washers I used, does'nt seem to need additional shimming, but I could be wrong. The differentials are not themsleves hardened as far as I know (stock mt2 ones). So will they be shredded to pieces? I mean, is the O.S. .18 too much still? I don't want to do wheelies and constantly replace ripped drivetrain gears if the engine is too powerful, I just want my truck to have a significant punch without destroying expensive parts all the time.
EDIT: just checked HPI's page.. apparently the diffs are hardened. Sorry for not checking this myself.
#5579
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From: Jindabyne, AUSTRALIA
hi i was just wondering what was better, the GPM front and rear arm set or the hot racing front and rear arm set?
does anyone no what the difference is in them?
Cheers T0MMY
does anyone no what the difference is in them?
Cheers T0MMY
#5580
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From: Dayton,
OH,
redfox03:
I have been racing my MT2 since 2003 in Unlimited MT at CRCRC in Columbus Ohio. The truck is very competeive against the UMT. Things you will need are:
Chassis brace,
Front/Rear CF Shock Towers,
Better Shocks,
Better Tires,
Better Diffs,
Anything else you can get in it.
I am running an OS 18 CV-R with Pink Taperpins and the truck hooks up great. Most people enjoy seeing my truck out there going against Jammins,Hellfires, Lightening and the like. I actually took TQ with it - shock the hell out of me. I am just very fortunate that they let me run against them, there attitude is if it says MT on the box - then you can run it.
Great Race facility, great group of guys and gals, and a very well run organization. You can see there site at www.crcrc.com. Here's my truck with the MT2SS tires on it:
I have been racing my MT2 since 2003 in Unlimited MT at CRCRC in Columbus Ohio. The truck is very competeive against the UMT. Things you will need are:
Chassis brace,
Front/Rear CF Shock Towers,
Better Shocks,
Better Tires,
Better Diffs,
Anything else you can get in it.
I am running an OS 18 CV-R with Pink Taperpins and the truck hooks up great. Most people enjoy seeing my truck out there going against Jammins,Hellfires, Lightening and the like. I actually took TQ with it - shock the hell out of me. I am just very fortunate that they let me run against them, there attitude is if it says MT on the box - then you can run it.
Great Race facility, great group of guys and gals, and a very well run organization. You can see there site at www.crcrc.com. Here's my truck with the MT2SS tires on it:
#5581
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From: sparta,
NJ
If someone complains about you having a better truck compared to the others, they should take their lightning ST and get a mini T. I think the mt2 is an inferior car compared to the hellfire and lightning. So if you beat them, you are unboudbtedly a better driver.
Won't make them stop complaining though.
I just hope I don't win a lot with mine
Won't make them stop complaining though.
I just hope I don't win a lot with mine
#5582
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From: Dayton,
OH,
Combatcm:
The Jammin is the best thing I have seen out here. They can race right out of the box. The Lightening has real issues with turn in. The cars like to push bad and cannot make the turns quickly and are slow off the punch. The Hellfire is unproven - looks fast at the track - but most the ones I have seen have been nothing more than weapons used by the drivers to scare turn marshalls. Even with crime fighters - they just cannot hook up.
As I see it, if I were to by a truck of the ones we talked about and had to buy one today:
1)Jammin
2)MT2ss
3)Lightening
4)Hellfire
Not saying there aren't better. Mugen conversion, hell - any buggy conversion is better than a true Unlimited MT other than the Jammin. If you ever get to see one or drive one - take the chance. It is the most stable UMT I have ever seen. I just wish I had the money to afford one.
I hope you do win with yours - why not - get more people interested in our inferior car.
The Jammin is the best thing I have seen out here. They can race right out of the box. The Lightening has real issues with turn in. The cars like to push bad and cannot make the turns quickly and are slow off the punch. The Hellfire is unproven - looks fast at the track - but most the ones I have seen have been nothing more than weapons used by the drivers to scare turn marshalls. Even with crime fighters - they just cannot hook up.
As I see it, if I were to by a truck of the ones we talked about and had to buy one today:
1)Jammin
2)MT2ss
3)Lightening
4)Hellfire
Not saying there aren't better. Mugen conversion, hell - any buggy conversion is better than a true Unlimited MT other than the Jammin. If you ever get to see one or drive one - take the chance. It is the most stable UMT I have ever seen. I just wish I had the money to afford one.
I hope you do win with yours - why not - get more people interested in our inferior car.
#5583
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From: TokyoTokyo, JAPAN
I agree with there although I have not yet seen the hellfire on the J-land race scene as yet...I am sure there are some...?
The thing is that the Jammin comes stock with a .28 force engine, which I think are some of the best beside Nova Rossi. What does the MT2 come stock with...an 18ss which has many running problems and is not a reliable motor as compared to the Jammin.
Its a nice truck though, but there ra emany things I dislike about the jammin with including the price range either. NIce engine though...wow!
The thing is that the Jammin comes stock with a .28 force engine, which I think are some of the best beside Nova Rossi. What does the MT2 come stock with...an 18ss which has many running problems and is not a reliable motor as compared to the Jammin.
Its a nice truck though, but there ra emany things I dislike about the jammin with including the price range either. NIce engine though...wow!
ORIGINAL: Grantothismo
Combatcm:
The Jammin is the best thing I have seen out here. They can race right out of the box. The Lightening has real issues with turn in. The cars like to push bad and cannot make the turns quickly and are slow off the punch. The Hellfire is unproven - looks fast at the track - but most the ones I have seen have been nothing more than weapons used by the drivers to scare turn marshalls. Even with crime fighters - they just cannot hook up.
As I see it, if I were to by a truck of the ones we talked about and had to buy one today:
1)Jammin
2)MT2ss
3)Lightening
4)Hellfire
Not saying there aren't better. Mugen conversion, hell - any buggy conversion is better than a true Unlimited MT other than the Jammin. If you ever get to see one or drive one - take the chance. It is the most stable UMT I have ever seen. I just wish I had the money to afford one.
I hope you do win with yours - why not - get more people interested in our inferior car.
Combatcm:
The Jammin is the best thing I have seen out here. They can race right out of the box. The Lightening has real issues with turn in. The cars like to push bad and cannot make the turns quickly and are slow off the punch. The Hellfire is unproven - looks fast at the track - but most the ones I have seen have been nothing more than weapons used by the drivers to scare turn marshalls. Even with crime fighters - they just cannot hook up.
As I see it, if I were to by a truck of the ones we talked about and had to buy one today:
1)Jammin
2)MT2ss
3)Lightening
4)Hellfire
Not saying there aren't better. Mugen conversion, hell - any buggy conversion is better than a true Unlimited MT other than the Jammin. If you ever get to see one or drive one - take the chance. It is the most stable UMT I have ever seen. I just wish I had the money to afford one.
I hope you do win with yours - why not - get more people interested in our inferior car.
#5584
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From: TokyoTokyo, JAPAN
Tommy,
Go for the GPM...they are identicle as far as I know. Its just the Hot bodies set look better...not buy much when you see your car racing by. And the GPM set are dramatically cheaper, save your bucks and go for the GPM and be happy. I race my MT2 and I have the alum set on mine...although I have alot of CF to bring down the weight...my other MT2 is just a project car/truck, whatever.
Go for the GPM...they are identicle as far as I know. Its just the Hot bodies set look better...not buy much when you see your car racing by. And the GPM set are dramatically cheaper, save your bucks and go for the GPM and be happy. I race my MT2 and I have the alum set on mine...although I have alot of CF to bring down the weight...my other MT2 is just a project car/truck, whatever.
ORIGINAL: tom_edmondson
hi i was just wondering what was better, the GPM front and rear arm set or the hot racing front and rear arm set?
does anyone no what the difference is in them?
Cheers T0MMY
hi i was just wondering what was better, the GPM front and rear arm set or the hot racing front and rear arm set?
does anyone no what the difference is in them?
Cheers T0MMY
#5587
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From: Copenhagen, DENMARK
ORIGINAL: simienastro
If I was you and you would not want to continue to fork out mid range prices - which added up are more than the heavy duty parts; I would get the heavy duty final gear for the engine you have lol. From my understanding its more powerful than the 18ss, so I would definitly get them. You should NEVER over shim your gears as the added friction and lack of play will kill them. In saying that, you can create a different atmosphere for the diff in terms of lubricants to help ease the pressure. You can use various weights engine oil or motor bike oils with different viscosities. I have set mine up with a car diff oil and my MT2 diffs are 1/4th filled with this oil so that they are always lubricated. My shims are standard shims with 1 extra...thats it. Bearing in miond that these will not last forever but if you train your self to ease off the throttle so its NOT "WOT" all thime when turning corners, your diffs should last longer.
On pages roughly 200 and below there abouts there was a poster who did the same thing as I did by putting and experimenting with various lubricants and viscosities with his diffs, and he even put a quick refil hole in the top - which is very good if yu have the alum ones and you can fabricate a tapping for the cap; not too hard.
If I was you and you would not want to continue to fork out mid range prices - which added up are more than the heavy duty parts; I would get the heavy duty final gear for the engine you have lol. From my understanding its more powerful than the 18ss, so I would definitly get them. You should NEVER over shim your gears as the added friction and lack of play will kill them. In saying that, you can create a different atmosphere for the diff in terms of lubricants to help ease the pressure. You can use various weights engine oil or motor bike oils with different viscosities. I have set mine up with a car diff oil and my MT2 diffs are 1/4th filled with this oil so that they are always lubricated. My shims are standard shims with 1 extra...thats it. Bearing in miond that these will not last forever but if you train your self to ease off the throttle so its NOT "WOT" all thime when turning corners, your diffs should last longer.
On pages roughly 200 and below there abouts there was a poster who did the same thing as I did by putting and experimenting with various lubricants and viscosities with his diffs, and he even put a quick refil hole in the top - which is very good if yu have the alum ones and you can fabricate a tapping for the cap; not too hard.

I'm gonna try some castrol synthetic oil, it comes in 75-90w as far as I recall.
I already got the heavy duty final gears installed. Next upgrades are steel bell gear, steel spur, engine mounts, slide carb set, pipe, and O.S. .18 [>:]
#5588
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From: Manchester, NH
Anyone have an easy way to get the eclips off that hold the rear shocks on. They're so damn thin that my needle nose keeps slipping off. There has to be a better way
#5589
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From: Copenhagen, DENMARK
I use a small flat screwdriver for the really persistent ones and try to pry them on the ends, sometimes they come off like this, but you can easily loose them, so it's nice to have some extras. Using two screwdrivers like this can also help, one to hold and one to push. There also two small notches on the inside where you can fit in the screwdriver perpendicular, and flip them off this way (easiest this way I think). You get better at it in time
#5590
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From: sparta,
NJ
Get 2 screwdrivers and try to push it off.
Or get for forceps at radioshack. Those are those little things that clamp on your skin when they do surgury. They look like scissors.
Or get for forceps at radioshack. Those are those little things that clamp on your skin when they do surgury. They look like scissors.
#5591
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
man is this trx 2.5 racing engine going to be a mod and a half to put in my mt2,not to much room with the slide carb and all ez start ,even if it is smaller then the stock hpi t 15
#5592

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From: Mississauga, ON, CANADA
man i told you it would be
hey im making a roll cage for my truck im getting the solid round bar for really chep and ill weld it myself mt2nitronut ill show you when we go bashing next it its done
hey im making a roll cage for my truck im getting the solid round bar for really chep and ill weld it myself mt2nitronut ill show you when we go bashing next it its done
#5593
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From: Manchester, NH
Has anyone ever had a proble with there lower needle not backing out. I'm not sure what happened but I was trying to adjust it richer and nothing was happening. I backed it out 3 full turns and the screw never came out I've seen it flush before, So I turned it 3 more full turns and still nothing. Anyone know what happened?
#5594
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From: Dayton,
OH,
MastaDizasta:
Here are the shocks:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHSR5&P=Z and
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHSR4&P=Z
You can get a set of duratrax or other brands for about half the price - but these are very nice.
Here are the shocks:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHSR5&P=Z and
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHSR4&P=Z
You can get a set of duratrax or other brands for about half the price - but these are very nice.
#5595
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From: TokyoTokyo, JAPAN
Hey Bradley, how are ya...Hows the beast coming along...? Have you had the chance to test the "SAVAGE" Savage yet and give it a good run yet...?
#5597

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From: Mississauga, ON, CANADA
hey bradley_wrench you know that tire glue i told you about i found it on rcmart this is the link
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...oducts_id=3048
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...oducts_id=3048
#5598
Senior Member
WOOT just got back from checking out my trucks and MY GOD i had forgoten how fast this dang thing is was cracking out to full throttle and holy crp it would do 100 meters in 2 secs!! all fine and smooth in operation good brakes and full control of throttle. it would even lift the front about 2 cms from a dead start on dry pavement and yes i have the 6 shock conversion so there is lots of suspension. i am using a OS .18 cvrx with slide carb and my neighbours just couldn't belive it!! i am so stocked for sat so i can go out for some bashing in the construction zone that is by walmart. hehe just think people will ask where i can get one and i will say SORRY NOT AT WALMART!!!
#5599
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From: TokyoTokyo, JAPAN
BOY...dont I know how you feel. I have to travel to Nagaoka this month and then stay there for about a year...A YEAR. But it has ALOT more space and great mountains. So the my VT2 mountain bike is going to get a good workout as well an the traxxis. Not taking the MT2 out for a while yet. I contacted this guy from [email protected] about a serisouly strong and sick 2speed and conversion bracket for the STS .28 to slap in my the beastly MT2. Should push that puppy upto at least 70Mph...? and from what I understand the gears are all steel so I can take it offroad more although I cant take any nasty jumps with it, just normal bush bashing should OK. MMMmmmmmmm, speeeeeeeeeeeeed.
ORIGINAL: bradley_wrench
havent run it yet. been working alot lately, just been doin alot of sleepin and workin
havent run it yet. been working alot lately, just been doin alot of sleepin and workin


