Official HPI MT2 Thread
#8076
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From: Moorpark,
CA
sort of...its all supply and demand. this hobby has a RELATIVELY small buyers base, so products are more scarecely produced, which is more expensive than mass producing.
#8077
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From: Macon,
GA
ORIGINAL: rcnz
Thanks for that 46u. Would taking the glowplug off after every run and then tightening it back on, eventually wear out the thread on the glowplug hole? Thats my only concern...on my T-15, I put after-run oil in every time and it was all good until I went to put a new glow plug in to find that the thread on the glowplug hole had been cross-threaded!
---Matthew
ORIGINAL: 46u
Put after run oil right in to the venture and not the fuel nipple as if you put it in the fuel nipple it could affect the o-rings on all your needle adjustments. When I but the after run oil in mine I take out the glow plug put 2 or 3 drops right in to the cylinder and 2 or 3 drops in the venture then turn the engine over. Put the glow plug back in put a couple more drops in the venture and turn it over again. I have found unless you put to much after run oil in my engines start easier after using after run oil because has a little more compression and lubes everything well to make it turn over better.
Put after run oil right in to the venture and not the fuel nipple as if you put it in the fuel nipple it could affect the o-rings on all your needle adjustments. When I but the after run oil in mine I take out the glow plug put 2 or 3 drops right in to the cylinder and 2 or 3 drops in the venture then turn the engine over. Put the glow plug back in put a couple more drops in the venture and turn it over again. I have found unless you put to much after run oil in my engines start easier after using after run oil because has a little more compression and lubes everything well to make it turn over better.
---Matthew
I have engines with well over 6 gallons on them and never striped a glow plug hole yet. Just do not over tighten them and make sure you do not cross thread them.
#8078
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Whoah! Just after I added the glow plug oil and put the plug back on, I gave the engine a pull and then a whole bunch of bubbles appeared around the glow plug!!! The plug is properly installed, firmly but not overtightened....coming to think of it, I did notice this before once when I was pulling the starter.
Any ideas? The engine is working perfectly, but I want 2 know what this is!
The washer that goes on the glow plug, this isn't directional is it?
--Matthew
Any ideas? The engine is working perfectly, but I want 2 know what this is!
The washer that goes on the glow plug, this isn't directional is it?
--Matthew
#8079

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From: Bay Shore,
NY
ORIGINAL: rcnz
Whoah! Just after I added the glow plug oil and put the plug back on, I gave the engine a pull and then a whole bunch of bubbles appeared around the glow plug!!! The plug is properly installed, firmly but not overtightened....coming to think of it, I did notice this before once when I was pulling the starter.
Any ideas? The engine is working perfectly, but I want 2 know what this is!
The washer that goes on the glow plug, this isn't directional is it?
--Matthew
Whoah! Just after I added the glow plug oil and put the plug back on, I gave the engine a pull and then a whole bunch of bubbles appeared around the glow plug!!! The plug is properly installed, firmly but not overtightened....coming to think of it, I did notice this before once when I was pulling the starter.
Any ideas? The engine is working perfectly, but I want 2 know what this is!
The washer that goes on the glow plug, this isn't directional is it?
--Matthew
Make sure you have a copper washer installed between the glow plug and the head to make a proper seal. If you do have that washer installed maybe it is cracked, warped or worn out, I would replace the washer as my first trouble-shooting move. My next move would be to check that the glow plug is not cross-threaded and it is going in straight so it will be flush with the head. If that checks out then replace the glow plug. If after you replace the glow plug you still have a problem you will have to inspect the head carefully for any cracks
Good luck.
#8080
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
ORIGINAL: Joebaby35
No the washer is not directional, you could flip it over and install it that way is you want. I would keep the washing installed the same way though because it was already grushed to fit the glow plug that way and it will make a better seal.
Make sure you have a copper washer installed between the glow plug and the head to make a proper seal. If you do have that washer installed maybe it is cracked, warped or worn out, I would replace the washer as my first trouble-shooting move. My next move would be to check that the glow plug is not cross-threaded and it is going in straight so it will be flush with the head. If that checks out then replace the glow plug. If after you replace the glow plug you still have a problem you will have to inspect the head carefully for any cracks
Good luck.
ORIGINAL: rcnz
Whoah! Just after I added the glow plug oil and put the plug back on, I gave the engine a pull and then a whole bunch of bubbles appeared around the glow plug!!! The plug is properly installed, firmly but not overtightened....coming to think of it, I did notice this before once when I was pulling the starter.
Any ideas? The engine is working perfectly, but I want 2 know what this is!
The washer that goes on the glow plug, this isn't directional is it?
--Matthew
Whoah! Just after I added the glow plug oil and put the plug back on, I gave the engine a pull and then a whole bunch of bubbles appeared around the glow plug!!! The plug is properly installed, firmly but not overtightened....coming to think of it, I did notice this before once when I was pulling the starter.
Any ideas? The engine is working perfectly, but I want 2 know what this is!
The washer that goes on the glow plug, this isn't directional is it?
--Matthew
Make sure you have a copper washer installed between the glow plug and the head to make a proper seal. If you do have that washer installed maybe it is cracked, warped or worn out, I would replace the washer as my first trouble-shooting move. My next move would be to check that the glow plug is not cross-threaded and it is going in straight so it will be flush with the head. If that checks out then replace the glow plug. If after you replace the glow plug you still have a problem you will have to inspect the head carefully for any cracks
Good luck.
Yeah I noticed the problem right before I even took the plug off when the engine was brand new, so I am guessing it could be a faulty plug or bad washer. The plug is going in perfectly straight and it is definatetly not cross threaded as the thread on the plug has not been damaged and it screws in without any resistance. I'm gonna go and get another plug/washer today and try that. If not, I'm guessing theres an air leak somewhere around the hole.
Engine performance doesn't really appear to be impaired as I don't believe its a major leak, but still it is a real pain! I rang OS support and all the guy could tell me was that my plug was threaded, which is certainly is not! If there is an air leak somewhere down there and it is a manufacturing fault, I suppose I can just send them the heatsink head which has the glow plug hole and thread inside?
Never had any air leak trouble with my T-15!

--Matthew
#8081
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From: Graceville, FL
ORIGINAL: Joebaby35
No the washer is not directional, you could flip it over and install it that way is you want....
No the washer is not directional, you could flip it over and install it that way is you want....
Actually, some glow plug washers ARE directional. Many are tapered like so:
|
Glow plug ---> {__}
washer-----> /_____\
So you have to be conscious of which way you install the crush-copper washer, because installing upside down will likely result in an air leak.
#8086
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From: toronto, ON, CANADA
question re. exhaust system. I will try to put Os 18tz engine in my ss18 and wonder what will be best choice of manifold and pipe.Thank you
#8087
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
ORIGINAL: unclezesta
oh......that would do it now wouldn't it.....that does explain some things.....yeah[sm=idea.gif]
oh......that would do it now wouldn't it.....that does explain some things.....yeah[sm=idea.gif]
Never thought they would be directional!
--Matthew
#8088
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Far out the CV-RX is awesome. Even on tarmac with the 4 tyres biting into the road with 4WD, she can still spin the tyres! Got a bit of a wheelie on the grass...
And...she's still running rich! Lots of smoke still coming out the exhaust! So definately a lot more potential for tuning!
--Matt
And...she's still running rich! Lots of smoke still coming out the exhaust! So definately a lot more potential for tuning!
--Matt
#8089
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From: Macon,
GA
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFAZ9&P=0
Had to do a little modifying to make it work with a pull starter TZ. Before I geared it up I had problems keeping the front wheels on the ground. Now you hit the throttle count to 1 and the tires are ballooning.
Had to do a little modifying to make it work with a pull starter TZ. Before I geared it up I had problems keeping the front wheels on the ground. Now you hit the throttle count to 1 and the tires are ballooning.
#8090
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From: , OR
getting a MT2 soon any suggestions to make it work with a .18 TZ when you say u geared up what did you go to?
I want to gwt it hooked up at the track any suggestions on durability improvments or essential parts upgrades?
TIA
I want to gwt it hooked up at the track any suggestions on durability improvments or essential parts upgrades?
TIA
#8091
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From: Macon,
GA
Welcome to the forum.
Yes get the SS not the RTR! TZ is a hand full and is not the best track engien as it has to much power. I have had the .18 TZ in mine for about a month but have not raced it since I put it in as I have been racing my Savage and new Hyper 8 buggy.
Yes get the SS not the RTR! TZ is a hand full and is not the best track engien as it has to much power. I have had the .18 TZ in mine for about a month but have not raced it since I put it in as I have been racing my Savage and new Hyper 8 buggy.
#8092
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From: , OR
Well I dont which one I am getting I bought a rig that looks like new off of Ebay for 180.00. I race my AD2, Revo, and Mugen MbX5t all the time so I think I will see how the stock motor does, but I am sure I will have to try to TZ in it too. I have about 6 TZ's for my Revo anyhow. I gone through 11 TZ's in 49 gallons on my Revo in the last 2 years!
#8093
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From: toronto, ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: 46u
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFAZ9&P=0
Had to do a little modifying to make it work with a pull starter TZ. Before I geared it up I had problems keeping the front wheels on the ground. Now you hit the throttle count to 1 and the tires are ballooning.
Thanks 46u,what kind of mod didyou have to do?What tuned pipe would you use?
Thanks
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFAZ9&P=0
Had to do a little modifying to make it work with a pull starter TZ. Before I geared it up I had problems keeping the front wheels on the ground. Now you hit the throttle count to 1 and the tires are ballooning.
Thanks 46u,what kind of mod didyou have to do?What tuned pipe would you use?
Thanks
#8094
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From: Macon,
GA
I had to grind the part of the lip of the pipe where it went on the back of the engine as well as there is a washer with two holes it for the retaining spring and I had to cut about ΒΌ of it off to miss the pull starter. Nothing hard. If I would have run a none pull starter I would not had to cut anything.
If I had it to do all over again I would get a none pull start engine and get a starter box. The pull starter on this engine is very small being it is a rear exhaust. I have had more problems with the pull starter in half a gallon then I have in all my pull starters in the past 6 years.
If I had it to do all over again I would get a none pull start engine and get a starter box. The pull starter on this engine is very small being it is a rear exhaust. I have had more problems with the pull starter in half a gallon then I have in all my pull starters in the past 6 years.
#8096
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From: Macon,
GA
For the most part I have never had a problem with pull starters. Are you going to put it in a RTR or an SS? If you are going to put it in a RTR you better spend as much on up grading the drive train, as you will buying the engine if you have not done so.
#8097
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From: toronto, ON, CANADA
Thanks,I run SS version with the heavy duty diffs.I will prbably go with OS exhaust that they recom. for 18tz engine.Actually,I got the engine At Tower Hobbies for 159$ and -20$ due to some promotion.Check them out guys,I guess,end of season sale on OS engines.I will go with the pull start and see what happens.
#8098
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From: Macon,
GA
ORIGINAL: minitee
Thanks,I run SS version with the heavy duty diffs.I will prbably go with OS exhaust that they recom. for 18tz engine.Actually,I got the engine At Tower Hobbies for 159$ and -20$ due to some promotion.Check them out guys,I guess,end of season sale on OS engines.I will go with the pull start and see what happens.
Thanks,I run SS version with the heavy duty diffs.I will prbably go with OS exhaust that they recom. for 18tz engine.Actually,I got the engine At Tower Hobbies for 159$ and -20$ due to some promotion.Check them out guys,I guess,end of season sale on OS engines.I will go with the pull start and see what happens.
Yes I listed the supper prices Tower is having right now a few pages back You can get the none pull start for about $130 right now. I have never seen the TZ at such low prices since they came out. Wondering if they are going to discontinue them and come out with something else? Hope you have better luck with the pull starter on the TZ then I am. You will want to gear it up or you will not be able to keep the front wheels on the ground as that is what I had to do.


