jpep

heres a pic from today

simienastro

Due to the possition of the exhaust adn the chassis, the chances of another RC or anything else for that matter hitting it is so remote that its not worth worring about...but let me say this, its FAR LESS than with a side exhaust. I have busted perhaps 8 or 10 exhaust in the life of my hobbie. Thats alot! And it ranges from landing on a rock to clipping a rock on the edge and it just totalling the exhaust. The rear exhaust is below the shock tower so it supported and protected from that. but I put some special impact foam on the ends of the shock towers as mine are CF so it will protect the CF from impact. Rubber gromets do the same trick.

I have rolled mine, droppped it harshly, landed harshly, had another over anxious RC truck try to HUMP the back of mine very aggressively...so far no probs. The money is well spent trust me on that, but its your descision my friend. If you do the homework and you shoose the right one for the application you need it for then you will always come out on top even if the thing you choose is not the most aesthetically challened peice of equipment in the RC arsenel.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

One thing for sure the price is fair considering the price of things this day and age. I was looking at OS tuned pipe and just for the tuned pipe is all most $70 alone. Might have to try one on my OS CV-RX and if I go to a rear exhaust engine all I should have to do is change the header.

simienastro

Yep...tell me about it!

BTW has anyone seen one of these: Thunder Tiger EK4 S2 Pro Off Road

Visual link: http://www.rccaraction.com/online_ex/videos.asp

In this site there is the INSANE .70 Thunder tiger...wow, now thats serious displacment.

Jackedman

My Feedback: (2)

jpep get the ofna primer with fliter all in one it works great i have it on my truck

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I like the nitro Mini-Inferno!

simienastro

Yeah, now thats a fun little beast... Do have one in the collection yet?

jpep

does anyone running the os .18cvrx here a constant rattling or jingling noise coming from it. I think the noise is in the clutch bell. My clutchbell has a little playback and forth on crankshaft (only about .5 - 1 mm). I'm 99.5 % sure it's all together right. I have all the correct washers and it's thread locked. I don't have the racing clutch, but I've tried 3 different sets of clucth shoes and springs they all made the same noise. I never ran my temp over 270, after high speed runs it's usually around 245 and about 218 at idle. I've tried to lean out and richen up, neither made the noise go away. There doesn't seem to be any probs yet but I'm worried something is wrong and I'll blow my engine.
One more quick question, what is the use of a fuel loop? Is it only used to make the car run longer on its roof when it flips racing it?

jpep

I posted this question in Jato forum because it's about my bros Jato, but I don't know any of them and I figured if I got a question I might as well come to the dudes that I can trust, anyways my buddies Jato had gas bubling out around glow plug. We eventually found an air leak and replaced fuel line. It's been raining since that day and is going to rain for 3-5 more days so won't be able to check for a while. Anyone seen this before, could the threads on topplate be stripped. We changed the plug and gasket. Could it just be too rich or lean? though we were pretty sure we had it at factory settings. Appreciate any thoughts?

laserman2

make sure the gasket that you used for the new plug is good and when you installed the new plug you tightented it to tight then 1/8 to 1/4 beyond that and it should prevent leaks also check your cooling heads screws as well to make sure thay are tigh as well and tighten thoise in a cross pattern

rcnz

Hi All

Just a quick question - I'm after a throttle return spring to fit in my MT2. Had a quick hunt around on Tower but there were a whole bunch and didn't exactly which one to order. What throttle return springs would you recommend for fitting into the MT2?

I did a quick bit of research on Google and came up with these part numbers:
(HPI) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXLS48&P=K
(OFNA) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXBM03&P=K

Any help on this one would be great thanks - I've already got an Ofna failsafe but want that extra degree of protection!

Cheers
Matt

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Neither one of those are a return spring they are linkage kits.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Look at these.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ng&FVPROFIL=++

rcnz

Thanks for that 46u....which one of those would you recommend? I'm just running the stock T-15 w/stock linkages...
Just saves me having to buy a whole lot of them just 2 find the right one!

Cheers
RCNZ

46u

My Feedback: (3)

The trouble I have had with return springs is one finding a good way and place to hook it up. Two finding one that can over come the servo and still let the servo work properly. I have one on my Savage (which came in the kit) but the servo is so strong that is does not return the throttle to an idle very well. I tried one on my MT but did not work real well. I would think you try enough different springs and set ups you can get one to work somewhat.

simienastro

I would be guesing here but effort an assumption, either you engines head thread is damaged somehow - perhaps over tightening it too many times...?, remember they are only alum so there should be a basic torque setting for it. usually its by feel and laserman is about right about that, its about 1/3 ~ 1/8 past the point where its semi tight. BUT, fuel should NEVER be bubbling out through the glow plug. At worst you can put just a very smal amount of gasmans tap around it to help seal it until you can get a new head. Its a white very thin tape that is uses for keeping pipes at tight fits.

In terms of the loop on the fuel line, it does a few things. It can help pressurise your tank with a few other mods, it help see the bubbles in the line and gives you time to get rid of them in terms of the RC bouncing around especially at half or quarter tanks B4 refills, but mostly it helps the car to continue to run when its flippes over, so your guess is good

In terms of return springs....46u, ditto...!

Grantothismo

Make sure the washer didn't disappear. Should be a copper colored compression washer.

MastaDizasta

Is their a better screw kit for this car? A hex one?

And where can I buy the cf upper deck for this car at the cheapest price?

jpep

You can get a almost complete screw kit on ebay for about $1-2 then $2-3 to ship. the prob is that it doesn't have all the nuts and it is missing a few srews like the screws for pipe header. It's definately worth the price. I bought 3 all for $1 a piece I forget how much to be shipped. Then I stocked up all the washers, nuts, and bolts that kit was missing.

I can't wait to place my next order so I can install gas tank and primer. How often fo you guys clean fuel filter. I have only run it through 10 tanks and I checked after 5-6 and it was totally clean. I'm going to check it before next bash session. The other thing was I wanted a new body for my truck while it's sitting on hobby bench. The stadium truck style is fine for bashing and racing but I hate the way it looks. Has anyone had any good luck getting a Jeep or 70's el camino or any regular type truck or Hummer body. I don't want it too fuctional as I won't be running with it on too often so if I can't get at the gas tank it's ok. I can't get to my pull start now on my mt2 anyways so I have to pull of body everytime it stalls.

simienastro

Well the mystery is solved....

I finally recieved the Revo today adn I have given it to my friend who was absolutly chuffed to bits with it. Just a VERY, EXTREMELY SLOW method of transport. I swear the USPS must have sent it via a bunch of camels...?

Yeah the bodies, when you do not have the rotostart - wish I had one on my .21, you have to take it of verytime and I HATE having to do this. There are ways around this but none of them are any good really, just get the rotostart. If you buy a small bum bag or small waiste bag you can put everything you need in there with no probs and its not that much to lug around either. I usually have my side strap - my friend makes things in leather so he made me a gun style holster for my rotostart which straps to my leg; and just put the glow starter and other spares in my bum bag.

If you look at my gallery and look at the body ive got on mine you can see its not the usual MT2 body. I also think that Bradley wrench, laserman, and_des and well many other on have none standard bodies. I think that there is one guy on here that has a hemi cooder bodie that looks really cool.

simienastro

Hey BTW, Jase714 how did you go with your spur problem...I never saw your post so I never answered it, but did the other guys on here answer it for you...?

Rising_Stormer

Hey eveyone, I have been driving a electric buggy now for a awhile and I wanted to switch to a nitro. What I had in mind was the nitro hpi mt 2. What I was wondering was would it be a good idea to get it for a begginer? Is there anything I should know about it? I have drove a nitro powered buggy before and did pretty good so I think I would be fairly good at driving one.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

First welcome to the form. Driving one is the easy part learning to tune and maintain it is harder. I recommend you do a good bit of studying before you buy one. When you get one make sure you read the manual word for word before even starting it. Here are some links to help you get started. All so we will be here to help.
http://www.rccartalk.com/nitro-rc-cars.html
http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php
http://dads-toy.com/tuning.shtml
http://www.*********.org/understanding_fuel.htm
http://www.*********.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm
http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/index.asp
Good Luck

jpep

Do you have patience and mechanical knowledge??? I've been into nitro for 3-4 months I love it. I'm almost addicted to buying new crap. AHHH the high you get when the UPS knocks with the order you've been waiting for? I jumped in it with no info on it and I paid the price by blowing my first engine on break in. If I only knew then what I know now.

46u you have a Savy and MT2, how close are the bodies to eachother. I want to get a new body do you know if there's any regulaqr style truck, jeep or anything oldschool is cool would do, just not a stadium racer style. They make 40-50 bodies for T-maxx, Sav, and revo. And the only ones specifically for the Mt2 are the same one I have just different colors. I need to add a body to my order before I place it. Can't wait to get that primer than put in that BIG tank.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

The Savage is 1/8 scale and the MT is 1/10. But I have seen people put the Savage body on a MT.