The bearings look more like 4x3x8 does this sound right??

did you measure them

yes

i think u will find there 5x3x8 as far as i can remember when i did mine

sorry there 5x8x2.5

I've bought a HPI glow-plug charger, how long do you guys believe is the best length to charge it? Also, how long before you use it should you charge it?

Thanks.

From what I can see, the diameter of the steel shaft that is inside the steering assembly i smaller that 5mm.

If it has a small wall charger around 14 hours the first charge.

14 hours? really i only charged mine for 4hrs and it worked fine. anyway Ive got a question. what are turnbuckles?. Ive had a look in my manual and it only shows the turnbuckle for the steering servo, where else do they go. i was thinking of getting the hpi turnbuckle set.

Your first charge is your most important and will have a lot to do with how long the battery last and how well it holds a charge. This is true with any battery! I do not have the HPI ignitron but when I got mine the instructions said to make sure the first charge was 12 to 14 hours the from then on about 10.

Not sure which HPI glow plug starter you have but if you look at either of these listings it says 10 hours before use. Mine said 12 to 14 but was not HPI.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVZ06&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVZ07&P=7

This is what I have and as you can see it says 12 to 14 hours.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ803&P=7

ah yes. so your right, i dont have the hpi one i have some random one and mine has seen better days, i shall get a new one soonish. Ive got a question. what are turnbuckles?. Ive had a look in my manual and it only shows the turnbuckle for the steering servo, where else do they go. i was thinking of getting the hpi turnbuckle set.

If you have the RTR you do not have turnbuckles but one-piece plastic rods. Like on the SS there are 7 turnbuckles I can think of but you can go to HPI web site and look in the SS manual.
You have one that comes off the steering servo, 2 that go from the steering bell to the knuckles, then 2 to set camber on the front C hubs and 2 on the rear up rights to set camber.

ah thank you lol i have been going through my manual looking for them and it was getting annoying so they are the plastic rods also know as "shock parts/link set" in my manual

are pull starter flywheels bigger than non-pull starter by acouple of mm?

Go to HPI web site and look at the SS manual as they come with the turnbuckles but yes I think you are correct.

For the most part that I know of.
This is my guess why. On a pull start engine the lowest part of the engine is the pull starter as well as a rotro starter backing plate. So they make the flywheel a larger OD so in case you want to be able to user a bump starter. Now on a none pull start or none roto start you can mount your engine down lower as the case is the lowest part so to keep the flywheel from being below the chassis or to low the flywheel is a smaller OD. Now all of this has to do with weather you run pull start or none pull start engine mounts.

my buddy just bought a used one for 100 and man does it hall *****

I have an 18ss all rigged up with race lightened flywheel, exhaust, HPI purple billet motor mount, racing clutch, new air filter/snorkel, and new glow plug [AS NEW] if anyones interested. I took it out and put the BB .21 in there so I have not used it since...just a shame to see it collect dust. I cant use it as my other RC is the revo which definetly does not want it. Just PM me if anyone needs it...its a no hassle drop it with averything provided and its been heat cycled and had 3 tanks through it ONLY. Exellent condition...

I took the MT2 out for a spin this morning early and winter is almost here - but not quite; so its cold enough to change my plug and richen it for the cold weather runs. The Hyper was a bit tempremenal but got it going on the 3rd start after it was warmed up with foil/sock and a small hot water bottle - yes it works. Man, due to the cold weather effect on the engine, it gave it more compression due to the ambient shrink of the material...screamed around and when second gear kicked in on the straight with the new pipe, that torque gave it a second gear power slide - nice.

Ran about 4 tanks and retired after that...now it will be cleaned and live its life as a shelf queen for the winter.

I've just tried starting my MT2 for the very first time, but it ain't budging. Is this usual? I know it has probably been sat in a warehouse for a long time, but I didn't think it would be this difficult to start.

I've followed all of the instructions, taken the glow plug out, inserted the roto-start to make sure the engine isn't flooded, but I just can't get the thing started.

There's definately fuel in the engine as some spat out when I took the glow plug out and started up the roto-start.

Any suggestions would be great.

did you adjust the needle settings? in the manual it should have some break in procedures and tuning procedures that you have to go through before you start... usually the needle is all the way in and you have to unscrew it 2 or 3 turns (i had to do that for my .18cv-rx)...

Must have been flooded. You should only seem some quirts of fuel in the carb.

Has the motor been started before?

have you inspected the glow plug and does your glow plug ignitor have a good charge?

If those things are all good then I'd do what mtrchamp said. Look at the manual and set all of your needles back to factory default. This setting will have the motor running rich (because they come from factory for break in) but it should run.

HA ha ha ha...man, I know exactly how you feel! I was the same when I first started and it was very VERY frustrating indeed, I swear I almost threw the bloody thing of the nearest 25th story building to see if it would do any better at flying than it did at driving.

But its just a matter of going through that first stage learning curve until you get it figured out and no matter how much you read and get others to tell you, its somthing you just have to persevere with. but you'll get there as we all do.

Quickly, just a simple peice of advice...make sure that its not too rich and and that your glow plug works. Take it out and put it in the glow starter and if its alight, then its alright, aslo as was said before, check to see that you glow starter has a good charge too. Dont prime the engine too much as it will naturally bring fuel to the engine once you primed it to the carb. Be patient with it and it will start as long as there is not air leaks and or far out needle settings. But, I have to admit that the HPI books are terrible for newbies to try to get around.

You should also read up about air leaks as sometimes this really does just kill new people to the hobby as they dont know what to look for. I cant find the source link to the air leak or fixing a leak, but ill try to find it for you so that you can at least be more armed with some kowledge to help you bumb over the learning curve faster and start enjoying the car more.

i had the exact same problem when i got my mt2 rtr. the factory settings for the high speed needle is to rich i had fuel dripping out of my exhaust . turn the high speed needle in a quarter of a turn only. once i had done that she started up fine also once you have primed the engine keep the glow plug charger on the glow plug for 10 seconds or so, then use the rotostart. i found that in the cold weather my t-15 is a buga to start when i prime the engine i leave the glow charger on the glow-plug for 10seconds or so before starting her up and she fires up fine.

i don't know if any of you have seen this but i was just browsing through google videos and i come across this, i think this guy would be good at spraying shells. its 9mins long but its cool watching the way it all comes together.
[link=http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=-1246174515665636969&q]Link[/link]