Lesson one there is this little function called spell check try it child. We will get in to lesson two tomorrow on how to use the shift key for capital letters if you figure out the shift key. I see you are good at coloring!

oK MaYbE iLL TRY it sOMetime as fOr now iM not gONNa usE that lOL [sm=wink_smile.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif][sm=punching.gif][sm=drowning.gif][sm=drowning.gif][sm=drowning.gif][sm=drowning.gif][sm=drowning.gif][sm=drowning.gif]

I am sorry I see you are one of those that have trouble with simple things. You know they have special schools for people like you.

acually i got my education over15 years ago my friend.i think you need to go back to the 1st grade. to get your iq level up

ohh i forgot [sm=drowning.gif][sm=drowning.gif]

Thanks coming from you that is a complement.

your very welcome buddy.LOL [sm=drowning.gif][sm=punching.gif]

hey does anybody run their slipper clutch as tight as it goes?? mine keeps comming loose and im getting fed up with it

Did you try putting on a new nut? Evidently the nut is not doing its job as it is a type of a lock nut. I run mine tighter then what the manual says but not as tight as the one in my Savage.

yea i replaced the nut... the manual says to loosen it 1/2 of a turn from as tight as it goes do you only loosen 1/4 or somthing like that??

[sm=drowning.gif][sm=punching.gif]

I adjust mine out of the truck where I can put a wrench on the drive cup the brake disc goes on then see how easy the spur is to turn. I do not think I have it even backed off ¼ turn from the spring being coil bound. Are you sure it is backing off and nothing is wearing badly?

yeah there is no wear it just keeps loosening to the point where my truck wont even move the engine will just rev up and slip the gear

Just wondered as one time I had a problem with the brass bushing pulling in to the plastic spur. The spur looked like it might have meted where the bushing goes.

meted LOL[sm=drowning.gif][sm=drowning.gif]you say i have problems with spelling

yeah so i guess im just gunna suck it up and loosen the slipper as little as possible and if i need to get a new spur then i guess thats what i got to do, my lhs sells them for like $5 any ways so if i screw up its not too big of a loss...thanx for the help 46u

I guess you could all ways try a little loctite.

ya you could try that[sm=drowning.gif][sm=drowning.gif][sm=punching.gif][sm=punching.gif]

I like, looks really nice. good job

Hi again,

Right, I've got my MT2 engine running (for the break-in) but it seems to be idling with too many revs. I've adjusted the needle and closed the carburetor as much as I can but after a few seconds the car seems to wildly over-rev of its own accord.

Also - I am breakig in the car with the electrics off, should I turn them on? (Radio, transmitter, etc).

P.S - I don't really understand - Should the tyres spin on idling (when it is up on blocks, not on the ground).

Lol you really need to do the heat cycle break-in and ignore what the HPI book says about static break-ins. You should do figure 8's with a stop go stop go for about 5secs only at minimal revs - minimal, enough to make it go and thats it; for your first and second tank with a complete cool down between tanks and make sure the piston is at Bottom Dead Centre each time. After your first 2 tanks again do figure 8's with a stop go stop go method with an 8 sec with the same rev level for one tank. Then for your 4th tank, revo to med with 10 sec count with a stop go stop go method and do this for 2 tanks. On your second to last tank, do big circles with a 12sec count with med~high revs - still with stock run-in settings; with the same stop gp stop go. Also making sure the engine is completely cooled down between tanks. Then on your last tank, you should adjust the HS needle 1/4th turns in - lean it in; after each 12 sec high speed run until it has good sound, smoke and has good speed - dont lean it too much though...you can tell as it will sputter, get very hot and there will be very little smoke. The you need to do the LS needle with 1/4th turns. You should do this after each 12 sec high speed run untill the car has very crisp and clean take off without bogging down, stalling or sputtering. To check that its correct, pinch the line and kill the engine, the engine should stop within about 3~4 seconds and as its stops it should idle up a little and then stop. If not and it takes too long or does not idle up then you need to tune it more at 1/4th turns until it does.

After that your engine should be very well run in the proper way. Your engine need some stress to really bed the piston into the sleave and give it a good mesh...static break-in is very silly and I really hate it that HPI still prints that kind of bad advice.

I have tried many break in methods and all seem OK but the one where you idle tanks of fuel throw them like HPI recommends. Yes just about as soon as you start it up run it. All so while breaking in while letting the engine cool down make sure you have the piston at bottom dead center (BDC). If you have a temperature gun here is another heat cycle method.
http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php
SIM2U method sounds good as well.

I have to rebuild the diffs in my MT1. I bought MT1 replacements. Pretty sure I'm just going to pick up an 18ss here soon and drop my CV-R in it and sell the motor on ebay.

Anyways, What is a good grease/lube to use on the gears in the diff? Both the bevel gears and the ring and pinion?

How do I know when the piston is at BDC?

dang dont u just hateit when u run out of fuel .... o well BACK TO THE HOBBY SHOP YAY!!!!!!!!!!!... hey arapoda did u get the 18ss kit or the rtr????