Official HPI MT2 Thread
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From: Macon,
GA
ORIGINAL: adz06
ur track looks deadly my local track is nt
i just decided to go check it out on one of there fun days brought the mt2 along u need to build it every 3rd sunday from april to september and only has to we tiny wooden jumps but it does change every week and is never set up the same way. here are some pics below the did not race 1/10 scale cars so i had to race in the truggys catergrie but i have bought a buggy to get into racing. but its bout 40 mins away from were i live
ur track looks deadly my local track is nt
i just decided to go check it out on one of there fun days brought the mt2 along u need to build it every 3rd sunday from april to september and only has to we tiny wooden jumps but it does change every week and is never set up the same way. here are some pics below the did not race 1/10 scale cars so i had to race in the truggys catergrie but i have bought a buggy to get into racing. but its bout 40 mins away from were i live
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From: N/A, UNITED KINGDOM
Okay, thanks.
MT2 RTR:
I've got another problem: About two weeks ago I posted some pics up of my melted clutch bell gear. I'm not sure what caused it, but it broke. I've bought a replacement racing clutch bell, but here's my problem: I've taken the engine out, attached the new clutch bell, and just to check things over I've pulled the pull-start but the clutch bell is spinning as I do this - Should it spin?
Just as my car broke a few weeks ago, when I went to start it the car lunged forward as I tugged on the pull start. As I pulled on the pull start, the wheels span. Now, at the time I noted that this was probably because my clutch bell was broken, but now (with the engine out), the (new) clutch bell STILL appears to be turning as I pull on the pull start. I'm completely confused. Surely the clutch bell shouldn't turn, as this is going to turn the spur gear too, thus turning the wheels?
Help!
MT2 RTR:
I've got another problem: About two weeks ago I posted some pics up of my melted clutch bell gear. I'm not sure what caused it, but it broke. I've bought a replacement racing clutch bell, but here's my problem: I've taken the engine out, attached the new clutch bell, and just to check things over I've pulled the pull-start but the clutch bell is spinning as I do this - Should it spin?
Just as my car broke a few weeks ago, when I went to start it the car lunged forward as I tugged on the pull start. As I pulled on the pull start, the wheels span. Now, at the time I noted that this was probably because my clutch bell was broken, but now (with the engine out), the (new) clutch bell STILL appears to be turning as I pull on the pull start. I'm completely confused. Surely the clutch bell shouldn't turn, as this is going to turn the spur gear too, thus turning the wheels?
Help!
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From: Macon,
GA
ORIGINAL: the iceman
Tower hobbies seems to only sell starter boxes that have around 750 single motor or dual 550. There might be 1 or 2 exceptions. However, i only need this starter box for the new car im going to add to my garage this summer (1/10 Team magic g4s on road w/ .12 engine), so 750 seems like a good size motor, but please correct me if i am wrong, i have never had a starter box. I also hope it will work with my mt2 as well because then i will only need to carry 1 starter.
is this the starter u have with some sticker on it http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCUC2&P=0
will it affect the engine, if i have too powerful of a starter box
Tower hobbies seems to only sell starter boxes that have around 750 single motor or dual 550. There might be 1 or 2 exceptions. However, i only need this starter box for the new car im going to add to my garage this summer (1/10 Team magic g4s on road w/ .12 engine), so 750 seems like a good size motor, but please correct me if i am wrong, i have never had a starter box. I also hope it will work with my mt2 as well because then i will only need to carry 1 starter.
is this the starter u have with some sticker on it http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCUC2&P=0
will it affect the engine, if i have too powerful of a starter box
Yep that is the starter box I have. I do not know if this is so but the only thing I would worry about a to strong of a motor in a starter box would be if you flood it weather it could hurt anything in the engine or if the wheel on the box would just slip? Keep in mind this all so is my first starter box so I am far from and expert. I do think for 1/10 scale the 750 or whatever engine should be OK. Keep us posted on your experiences with starter box and I will do the same.
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From: Macon,
GA
ORIGINAL: arapoda
I've recently bought the 13 tooth racing clutch bell for my MT2 RTR, plus the two bearings that go with it. I'm looking for instructions on how to install it properly (that is, the bearings, as the bell is easy enough). Someone told me to read the PDF MT2 18ss user manual, but that doesn't load successfully for me. Thanks.
I've recently bought the 13 tooth racing clutch bell for my MT2 RTR, plus the two bearings that go with it. I'm looking for instructions on how to install it properly (that is, the bearings, as the bell is easy enough). Someone told me to read the PDF MT2 18ss user manual, but that doesn't load successfully for me. Thanks.
I have problems down loading from the European HPI web site as well and have talked to others that all so have problems. Did you try the US web site? I do not have problems there.
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
the only reason for it lunging forward is if the clutch shoes are engaging to spin the clutch bell. are you sure you serviced the clutch shoes? to make sure they are tight on the pins and none are damaged (springs ect). the clutch shoes should be tight against the shaft. you should not be able to pull them out. only g-force can do that 

ORIGINAL: arapoda
Okay, thanks.
MT2 RTR:
I've got another problem: About two weeks ago I posted some pics up of my melted clutch bell gear. I'm not sure what caused it, but it broke. I've bought a replacement racing clutch bell, but here's my problem: I've taken the engine out, attached the new clutch bell, and just to check things over I've pulled the pull-start but the clutch bell is spinning as I do this - Should it spin?
Just as my car broke a few weeks ago, when I went to start it the car lunged forward as I tugged on the pull start. As I pulled on the pull start, the wheels span. Now, at the time I noted that this was probably because my clutch bell was broken, but now (with the engine out), the (new) clutch bell STILL appears to be turning as I pull on the pull start. I'm completely confused. Surely the clutch bell shouldn't turn, as this is going to turn the spur gear too, thus turning the wheels?
Help!
Okay, thanks.
MT2 RTR:
I've got another problem: About two weeks ago I posted some pics up of my melted clutch bell gear. I'm not sure what caused it, but it broke. I've bought a replacement racing clutch bell, but here's my problem: I've taken the engine out, attached the new clutch bell, and just to check things over I've pulled the pull-start but the clutch bell is spinning as I do this - Should it spin?
Just as my car broke a few weeks ago, when I went to start it the car lunged forward as I tugged on the pull start. As I pulled on the pull start, the wheels span. Now, at the time I noted that this was probably because my clutch bell was broken, but now (with the engine out), the (new) clutch bell STILL appears to be turning as I pull on the pull start. I'm completely confused. Surely the clutch bell shouldn't turn, as this is going to turn the spur gear too, thus turning the wheels?
Help!
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From: Macon,
GA
ORIGINAL: rcnz
Stock ratio in the RTR is 13/52....not 2 sure if 13/49 would work...I would recommend going to 15/49 like the 18ss, try that and then work from there
ORIGINAL: Nitr0-is-Deadly
how does gear atio work?
the stock spur is 52t and the stock cb is 12 right...if i used like a 13/49 what would that do? would it just strip the gears fast?
how does gear atio work?
the stock spur is 52t and the stock cb is 12 right...if i used like a 13/49 what would that do? would it just strip the gears fast?
All depends on what engine you are running as there is a thing as over gearing.
The T15 does not have much grunt so keep this in mind on it. I am running 15 CB and 47 spur.
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From: Macon,
GA
ORIGINAL: murawskiallen
the smaller number of teeth on the cb the higher the top speed the lower number of teeth on the spur the higher the top speed and vice versa...and yes 13/49 does work
the smaller number of teeth on the cb the higher the top speed the lower number of teeth on the spur the higher the top speed and vice versa...and yes 13/49 does work
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From: Macon,
GA
ORIGINAL: tattguy12
http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2....me.swf....this should be the the link..this store in california is going out of buisness and all there inventory is like 50% off i ordered a spektrum dx2 and my total was only $88.00 waiting approval from wife to order more stuff..lol...check it out
http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2....me.swf....this should be the the link..this store in california is going out of buisness and all there inventory is like 50% off i ordered a spektrum dx2 and my total was only $88.00 waiting approval from wife to order more stuff..lol...check it out
Link does not work. [:@]
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From: N/A, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: djheptic
the only reason for it lunging forward is if the clutch shoes are engaging to spin the clutch bell. are you sure you serviced the clutch shoes? to make sure they are tight on the pins and none are damaged (springs ect). the clutch shoes should be tight against the shaft. you should not be able to pull them out. only g-force can do that
the only reason for it lunging forward is if the clutch shoes are engaging to spin the clutch bell. are you sure you serviced the clutch shoes? to make sure they are tight on the pins and none are damaged (springs ect). the clutch shoes should be tight against the shaft. you should not be able to pull them out. only g-force can do that

ORIGINAL: arapoda
Okay, thanks.
MT2 RTR:
I've got another problem: About two weeks ago I posted some pics up of my melted clutch bell gear. I'm not sure what caused it, but it broke. I've bought a replacement racing clutch bell, but here's my problem: I've taken the engine out, attached the new clutch bell, and just to check things over I've pulled the pull-start but the clutch bell is spinning as I do this - Should it spin?
Just as my car broke a few weeks ago, when I went to start it the car lunged forward as I tugged on the pull start. As I pulled on the pull start, the wheels span. Now, at the time I noted that this was probably because my clutch bell was broken, but now (with the engine out), the (new) clutch bell STILL appears to be turning as I pull on the pull start. I'm completely confused. Surely the clutch bell shouldn't turn, as this is going to turn the spur gear too, thus turning the wheels?
Help!
Okay, thanks.
MT2 RTR:
I've got another problem: About two weeks ago I posted some pics up of my melted clutch bell gear. I'm not sure what caused it, but it broke. I've bought a replacement racing clutch bell, but here's my problem: I've taken the engine out, attached the new clutch bell, and just to check things over I've pulled the pull-start but the clutch bell is spinning as I do this - Should it spin?
Just as my car broke a few weeks ago, when I went to start it the car lunged forward as I tugged on the pull start. As I pulled on the pull start, the wheels span. Now, at the time I noted that this was probably because my clutch bell was broken, but now (with the engine out), the (new) clutch bell STILL appears to be turning as I pull on the pull start. I'm completely confused. Surely the clutch bell shouldn't turn, as this is going to turn the spur gear too, thus turning the wheels?
Help!
I didn't know what I was looking for with the clutch shoes, but the shoes themselves appear fine. It looks as though I should order some new springs just incase this is the problem.
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
click the link and just get rid of the "....this" and it will work. as you can see the home page is a flash object
(used to do web design) know abit about websites
(used to do web design) know abit about websites
ORIGINAL: 46u
Link does not work. [:@]
ORIGINAL: tattguy12
http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2....me.swf....this should be the the link..this store in california is going out of buisness and all there inventory is like 50% off i ordered a spektrum dx2 and my total was only $88.00 waiting approval from wife to order more stuff..lol...check it out
http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2....me.swf....this should be the the link..this store in california is going out of buisness and all there inventory is like 50% off i ordered a spektrum dx2 and my total was only $88.00 waiting approval from wife to order more stuff..lol...check it out
Link does not work. [:@]
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From: Macon,
GA
ORIGINAL: rcnz
Does anyone/46u know if you can run these on the MT2? Kinda like the idea of some dish wheels - but they don't say if they're a 12mm hex...
Pro-Line Rear Velocity Dish 2.2" T2/3 White (2)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDW24&P=7
Does anyone/46u know if you can run these on the MT2? Kinda like the idea of some dish wheels - but they don't say if they're a 12mm hex...
Pro-Line Rear Velocity Dish 2.2" T2/3 White (2)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDW24&P=7
I will not swear to it but pretty sure they will not work. If you find dished wheels that will fit the MT let us know.
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
try pull the clutch shoes outwards. (not away from the flywheel) but outwards. as if they were engaging. (you know how the clutch works right?)
ORIGINAL: arapoda
I didn't know what I was looking for with the clutch shoes, but the shoes themselves appear fine. It looks as though I should order some new springs just incase this is the problem.
ORIGINAL: djheptic
the only reason for it lunging forward is if the clutch shoes are engaging to spin the clutch bell. are you sure you serviced the clutch shoes? to make sure they are tight on the pins and none are damaged (springs ect). the clutch shoes should be tight against the shaft. you should not be able to pull them out. only g-force can do that
the only reason for it lunging forward is if the clutch shoes are engaging to spin the clutch bell. are you sure you serviced the clutch shoes? to make sure they are tight on the pins and none are damaged (springs ect). the clutch shoes should be tight against the shaft. you should not be able to pull them out. only g-force can do that

ORIGINAL: arapoda
Okay, thanks.
MT2 RTR:
I've got another problem: About two weeks ago I posted some pics up of my melted clutch bell gear. I'm not sure what caused it, but it broke. I've bought a replacement racing clutch bell, but here's my problem: I've taken the engine out, attached the new clutch bell, and just to check things over I've pulled the pull-start but the clutch bell is spinning as I do this - Should it spin?
Just as my car broke a few weeks ago, when I went to start it the car lunged forward as I tugged on the pull start. As I pulled on the pull start, the wheels span. Now, at the time I noted that this was probably because my clutch bell was broken, but now (with the engine out), the (new) clutch bell STILL appears to be turning as I pull on the pull start. I'm completely confused. Surely the clutch bell shouldn't turn, as this is going to turn the spur gear too, thus turning the wheels?
Help!
Okay, thanks.
MT2 RTR:
I've got another problem: About two weeks ago I posted some pics up of my melted clutch bell gear. I'm not sure what caused it, but it broke. I've bought a replacement racing clutch bell, but here's my problem: I've taken the engine out, attached the new clutch bell, and just to check things over I've pulled the pull-start but the clutch bell is spinning as I do this - Should it spin?
Just as my car broke a few weeks ago, when I went to start it the car lunged forward as I tugged on the pull start. As I pulled on the pull start, the wheels span. Now, at the time I noted that this was probably because my clutch bell was broken, but now (with the engine out), the (new) clutch bell STILL appears to be turning as I pull on the pull start. I'm completely confused. Surely the clutch bell shouldn't turn, as this is going to turn the spur gear too, thus turning the wheels?
Help!
I didn't know what I was looking for with the clutch shoes, but the shoes themselves appear fine. It looks as though I should order some new springs just incase this is the problem.
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From: N/A, UNITED KINGDOM
I have a slight idea how the clutch works, but not a great understanding. I'll go and inspect them now (as the engine is off the car at the moment) and I'll see what's what.
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Okay, djheptic - The clutch shoes look okay, and they are tight. I pulled the shoes away from the central rod and they spring back into place (they are tight). I don't really know what to look for in terms of faults. Nothing looks out of the ordinary, but if the clutch is engaging the clutch bell, then there obviously must be something afoot.
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
you managed to pull them out away from the shaft?. you must be strong as when i had them clutch shoes i couldnt pull mine out (but then again i never tried that hard). how tight are you doing up the screw on the end of the clutch bell. are you using a m5 washer? you might have lost it when the clutch bell broke.
ORIGINAL: arapoda
Okay, djheptic - The clutch shoes look okay, and they are tight. I pulled the shoes away from the central rod and they spring back into place (they are tight). I don't really know what to look for in terms of faults. Nothing looks out of the ordinary, but if the clutch is engaging the clutch bell, then there obviously must be something afoot.
Okay, djheptic - The clutch shoes look okay, and they are tight. I pulled the shoes away from the central rod and they spring back into place (they are tight). I don't really know what to look for in terms of faults. Nothing looks out of the ordinary, but if the clutch is engaging the clutch bell, then there obviously must be something afoot.
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From: N/A, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: djheptic
you managed to pull them out away from the shaft?. you must be strong as when i had them clutch shoes i couldnt pull mine out (but then again i never tried that hard). how tight are you doing up the screw on the end of the clutch bell. are you using a m5 washer? you might have lost it when the clutch bell broke.
you managed to pull them out away from the shaft?. you must be strong as when i had them clutch shoes i couldnt pull mine out (but then again i never tried that hard). how tight are you doing up the screw on the end of the clutch bell. are you using a m5 washer? you might have lost it when the clutch bell broke.
ORIGINAL: arapoda
Okay, djheptic - The clutch shoes look okay, and they are tight. I pulled the shoes away from the central rod and they spring back into place (they are tight). I don't really know what to look for in terms of faults. Nothing looks out of the ordinary, but if the clutch is engaging the clutch bell, then there obviously must be something afoot.
Okay, djheptic - The clutch shoes look okay, and they are tight. I pulled the shoes away from the central rod and they spring back into place (they are tight). I don't really know what to look for in terms of faults. Nothing looks out of the ordinary, but if the clutch is engaging the clutch bell, then there obviously must be something afoot.
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From: pompano beach,
FL
i found a hop up site in the UK
http://www.rchopups.co.uk/item--125c...2--HMT510.html ---- THEY HAVE A 125CC FUEL TANK WOOT--with stone filter
http://www.rchopups.co.uk/cat--New-E...NewEraMT2.html
http://www.rchopups.co.uk/item--125c...2--HMT510.html ---- THEY HAVE A 125CC FUEL TANK WOOT--with stone filter
http://www.rchopups.co.uk/cat--New-E...NewEraMT2.html
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
is the clutch bell spinning freely. can you spin it?.
ORIGINAL: arapoda
The screw on the end of the clutch bell is tight and the washers are still intact. There are two washers - One goes against inside rim of the gear itself, another within the clutch bell.
ORIGINAL: djheptic
you managed to pull them out away from the shaft?. you must be strong as when i had them clutch shoes i couldnt pull mine out (but then again i never tried that hard). how tight are you doing up the screw on the end of the clutch bell. are you using a m5 washer? you might have lost it when the clutch bell broke.
you managed to pull them out away from the shaft?. you must be strong as when i had them clutch shoes i couldnt pull mine out (but then again i never tried that hard). how tight are you doing up the screw on the end of the clutch bell. are you using a m5 washer? you might have lost it when the clutch bell broke.
ORIGINAL: arapoda
Okay, djheptic - The clutch shoes look okay, and they are tight. I pulled the shoes away from the central rod and they spring back into place (they are tight). I don't really know what to look for in terms of faults. Nothing looks out of the ordinary, but if the clutch is engaging the clutch bell, then there obviously must be something afoot.
Okay, djheptic - The clutch shoes look okay, and they are tight. I pulled the shoes away from the central rod and they spring back into place (they are tight). I don't really know what to look for in terms of faults. Nothing looks out of the ordinary, but if the clutch is engaging the clutch bell, then there obviously must be something afoot.
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From: N/A, UNITED KINGDOM
djheptic - No, the clutch bell is tight.
The crew it as tight as I can get it, which obviously tightens up the clutch bell.
One of the M5 washers became slightly damaged when the previous clutch bell broke with me - It became slightly domed in shape as it was compressed near the centre. Would this affect anything, and should the clutch bell spin freely?
The crew it as tight as I can get it, which obviously tightens up the clutch bell.
One of the M5 washers became slightly damaged when the previous clutch bell broke with me - It became slightly domed in shape as it was compressed near the centre. Would this affect anything, and should the clutch bell spin freely?
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
yes the clutch bell should spin freely. replace the outer m5 washer with a new one. and do the screw up as tight as it can go. then spin the clutch bell. it should spin freely. if not loosen the screw off a touch
ORIGINAL: arapoda
djheptic - No, the clutch bell is tight.
The crew it as tight as I can get it, which obviously tightens up the clutch bell.
One of the M5 washers became slightly damaged when the previous clutch bell broke with me - It became slightly domed in shape as it was compressed near the centre. Would this affect anything, and should the clutch bell spin freely?
djheptic - No, the clutch bell is tight.
The crew it as tight as I can get it, which obviously tightens up the clutch bell.
One of the M5 washers became slightly damaged when the previous clutch bell broke with me - It became slightly domed in shape as it was compressed near the centre. Would this affect anything, and should the clutch bell spin freely?


