topcat-lll

As far as racing is concerned the starter box is the only way to go;
1) less weight of a pull starter or roto starter,and no broken strings.
2)lower center of gravity. ( you use lower engine mounts and smaller lighter flywheel)
3)mostly all high performance engines are non pull start.
4)the starter box spins the engine alot faster than a pull starter or a roto starter,so starting a poorly tuned engine
or breaking in an high performance tight motor is a lot easier.
5)pull start and roto start engines have a shaft that goes into the crankcase to spin the crankshaft. the hole that
the shaft goes though normally leaks alittle air.(causing eratic idle,plus the oneway bearing causes more
drag on the engine.
just my 2cents

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

I couldn't have said it better!

Wiat I had my chance and didn't say it better??????[sm=what_smile.gif][sm=what_smile.gif][sm=what_smile.gif][sm=what_smile.gif][sm=47_47.gif]

crohbober

hello evryone hows everyone's cars running?? just checking in... its been about a week ive been on.......
also about the putt start it.... the little plastic part under the little handle can crack if you arn't carefull. and once you start trying to start an engine on that.. its going to shave your skin off

mark_y

I'm still trying to get my brand new 18 CV-RX w/pull starter started but having trouble. It is turning over and almost sounds like the piston is igniting but won't start up. I keep checking and rechecking the carb settings etc. One guy suggested heating up the motor but I don't have a heating gun. Any other way to do that beside sticking in a frying pan??? Any help or advise would be appreciated....

RCCanuck

hair dryer

46u

My Feedback: (3)

You can try a hair dryer but it will not get an engine near as hot as a heat gun. It is common practice to pre heat new engines before starting particularly high performance tight pinch engines but I do all of mine. If you think the OS CV-RX is hard to break in you need to try a OS TZ!!!!!!!![X(]

evo165

Thanks all for the advises here. Bet my style of enjoying RC is to bashing. Due to my country stadium truck market is not there. Most race 1/10 scale touring car or 1/8 buggy. Guess i'll stick with roto-start.

Today i just finish my last paper, yahoo!! So happy!! I'm on my way slowly fitting up my mt2 18ss+ i bought before my semester exam. I've recently ordered the GPM diff housing and yet to arrive from hong kong. Hopefully i'll be able to post up my ride aftering fitting up everything.

While waiting for the gpm housing to arrive, i'm searching around for a budget li-po charger. Intend to use a li-po batt as they are lighter and able to store more "juice". Of course, i'll be better careful with the "+" and "-" when chraging. Else..........

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Yep li-po have come a long way and are some what safer then they use to be. They are light and do hold more power but make sure not to over charge, do not over discharge, cost is high and you have to have a special charger. Keep us posted how you like them.

mark_y

Is this heat-up process only for the initial break-in of the motor or does it always need to be pre-heated before starting?

mark_y

The hair dryer does make it a lot easier to pull start but still nothing is happening. Again the carb settings are where they are suppose to be and fuel is getting to the carb. The glow plug is fine. What next???!!!! This thing has me baffled...

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Is it doing anything like trying to start or hitting? Have you taken the glow plug out and put in the igniter to see if it works? I have never had a new engine not at least try to start! About heating the engine I TOLD YOU.

RCCanuck

are you sure the plug is ok...try a new one just in case.....make sure the glow ignitor is fully charged.....is it getting fuel into the head??? try adding an extra copper ring gasket to the glowplug to get it started..or just loosen it a bit until its started then tighten it back down..

mark_y

I've tried that.....I'm pulling it about 8-10 times. I can smell the fuel igniting...... But it's just not starting up..... If the fly wheel was not put on correctly would it be able to turn over? Just don't know???? I'll try to charge up the plug igniter as well even though it looks orange hot when put to the plug..

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I all so recommend charging the igniter well and trying a new glow plug. Yes after the engine is broke in you should not have to pre heat.

rapsucks_07

nice radio tray holder . i have a black screw on mine lol

Jackedman

My Feedback: (2)

Me too

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I most be missing something as I do not under stand what you are saying. [sm=confused.gif]

rapsucks_07

46u

My Feedback: (3)

O OK on mine it is held on with a body clip.

catbutt

I have a quick question for someone who has an OS 18 CV-RX in their rig. I just got this motor in my mt2 RTR (which I have upgraded the drive train to 18ss specs) tonight, needless to say I am pleased. Insanely happy, to be exact. Anyway, I am browsing Motor Saver air filters, but I am unsure which I need? I had the 10mm one for my T-15, but I doubt it will be enough for the 18. The filter that OS supplies with the motor is easily twice the size of the 10mm Motor Saver. I was always planning to get the OS 18 CR-V in my mt2, but made myself wait till the 15 died. Well, I must have willed it to early doom, as I went out one day and she seized up on me, wasn't even running hot. I rushed home, freed the piston up to avoid further damage, and ordered the OS! It has only been 1 month since I got my mt2 new, although I have run 2 gallons through it. In that light I suppose I got my moneys worth out of it, though 2 gals seems a premature death. I was never able to get it to run under 250, it normally ran between 250 and 280. I was running rich, good smoke, poor power and high temps. Never could get her to run up to potential. Bah! Enough I say, usher in the new era of the OS 18 CV-R! She sits proudly now in the frame, waiting to be broke in. Unfortunately, I have a wedding to go to this weekend, and won't be able to get to it until Monday[] I hope the 18 is all Ive dreamt it would be. I'm sure it will at least be better than that underpowered , hot running POS that the T-15 was.



I added a few pics...in the ones with the lid on you can see my attempt to cool down the hot-blooded T-15 with a homemade air scoop (it did help)

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Being your T 15 was so new I would call HPI and try to get them to replace it and if nothing else sell it on ebay. They have GREAT customer service. I do not like motor saver air filters my self and the filter that is on yours is better. If you are going to run in real dusty conditions I would put a pre filter on it. That is what I am running on my OS 18 TZ with a pre filter.

MiamizFinest

CATBUTT your MT2 looks AWSOME i love that air scoop you made looks REALYL GOOD .........looking at this makes me what to get another MT2..............ive had 2 in the past and sold them both........i must resist the ERGE!!!!!!!!!

46u

My Feedback: (3)

When you say you up grade the drive train to SS specifications you must mean just the diffs only as the rest of the drive train looks stock RTR. No heavy duty drive cups or CVD’s and so on. Hope you up dated the CB and bearings.

rapsucks_07

yep

giants17

I never had any problems with the rtr bearings, but its definately necessary to upgrade the CB, mine gave out after about 2 tanks.