Anytime, Boohoo, just holler. Hope everything is going well, keep us posted on your progress. I'm sure the CV-RX will make you smile every time you drive it, I know it keeps me grinnin'. GL

last nite i looked at manual for the mt2 18ss to see how the instruction r. i was able to follow them real easily. i would jus need to get servos and a receiver, and transmitter.

well happy with it only ran 4 tanks apart from what i used during running in then ran out of fuel getting more tomorrow (sat) then going to have some more fun

For a steering servo you want at least 80oz of torque and 100 or more would be better.

Does anyone know what the transmission ratio is for the MT2

What do you mean? There is no transmission, just a direct-drive spur gear.

Ops!!!!

I meant to say "Internal Gear Ratio"

Ummm, you mean the diffs? 13/38 for those, so the ratio is 2.92:1.

There is something I'm not getting, to find out the final gear ratio don't you divide the spur gear by the pinion, and then multiply by the internal gear ratio??

For example: 52t spur/ 15 pinion= 3.46 * "internal gear ratio" = final gear ratio (this will be the result of how many times the motor turns for the tire to do 1 complete rotation)

Sort of. Go in order: 15/52 * 13/38 = the number of times the wheel rotates for every engine revolution.

hey unclevinnie since you have the mt2 project i assume you have a hpi racing clutch right??? if you have a modified clutch what parts are you using and how improved is the result? thanks

The HPI racing clutch is a straight bolt on, remove the stock, and replace with the new one.

I haven't notice any improvement vs the stock clutch, then again I've changed, and tried so many settings, I don't no if I coming or going anymore.

I'm still using the clutch one the first hole, I'm tempted to cut it, and try the 2nd hole.

Has anyone cut it and tried different holes, any benefit, improvement????????

hi all i've been slow building a 3.0 from scratch and now are to some areas where i have zero knowledge about the car first, i've read some of this thread and searched but need some quick answers about the diff's, is alloy cases and a good shim job all they need to handle some real power or are there some AMU's that cost insane money? and also which mt/mt2/mt2ss/mt2 3.0 has the best gear ratio for top speeds i am also building the truck to be the fastest in my garage.

I've trimmed the racing clutch and loved it! I went all the way to the max recommended trim. It took more rpm to start moving, but when it did it really hit hard, just like using stiffer springs in a 3-shoe setup or a loose torque converter in a 1:1 car.

Hey, if anyone wants an excel spreadsheet that i made for calculation ratios/top speed... let me know your email and i will probably send it to you... all you do is enter in your cb, spur, ring, pinion teeth and rpm and it calcs it for you thanks reach me at [email protected]

Does it also require tire circumference? I sure hope so!

yes please, i am using the 2speed rs4 and not sure which truck's gears i want to use, at the time i have the 11/15 final drives i think but want the diff's and the tranny to be nice to each other. my email is adaynumberone@yahoo. i have a friend with a 3.3 jato and it's fast but to hairy out the hole, but i really would like to stop his heart when i finish this MT2.

Uncle Vinnie: You actually don't have to cut the racing clutch to use the optional 2nd and 3rd holes, it will work just fine uncut. On my first clutch I cut it to the last hole and got it too close and it gave out after about a gallon. Soonafter, I learned from someone else on this thread that you can use it without cutting and tried it- it works just as well. The advantage to using it uncut is you can go back and forth between all the holes at will, something you cannot do if you cut it- there is no going back then, you are stuck. Give it a try before you decide to cut.

ASYSTEMERROR: If you go back a page or 2 you will see that I used the alloy diff cases on my MT2 and had nothing but problems with them. They were the cause of my having gone through 26 bearings in 2 months. I have since gone back to the original plastic cases and could not be happier having done so. The alloy cases are not well made and have poor quality control. In almost every way the original plastic is superior to the alloy cases, the exception being the plastic has a bit more flex. In most circumstances this will not be an issue. The only way I would recommend using them is if you have a big block or a high powered motor like the OS 18 TZ and then only on the rear. Otherwise they are an unnecessary headache- use at your own discretion.

anyone had problems with black clutch springs using the os .18 cv-rx engine had to change both of mine with gold coloured ones i got with new clutch shoe,s from the 18ss just didnt think they would go so soon

yeah, sorry forgot to mention... type in the radius and it calcs it for you then uses that cell to calc speed.... do you want it also or not

I've always wondered if it would work without cutting the clutch, now I know. Thanks a lot for the info.

When you have a 2-speed tranny on a rc, how does it work???
When it changes to 2nd gear, does the motor maintain the same RPM as it had before changing to 2nd, or does it work like a car, the RPM also drop??????

I'm trying to make my car change to 2nd at the best RPM.
Should I set it up to change low, mid, high RPM???????

Any opinions, suggestions would be great.

Keep in mind when you run a 2 speed you do away with the slipper clutch and puts much stress on the drive train! Defiantly not a good idea for off road ore jumping.

Keep in mind catbutt runs mostly on sand and is very hard on a vehicle. I do agree unless you are running a big block or an engine like the OS TZ that has as much HP as some big blocks keep the stock diff housings. Now if I read it correctly the new MT 2+ has better diff housings.

mmk i am a noob here what is cutting a clutch or drilling it? pics would help...

They are talking about the HPI race clutch. Go to HPI web site and see if they have the instructions on this clutch and you will see.

On the sand note, I just got hooked up with some guys who have built a track that is not sand out in the decommissioned Fort Ord army base. The track is powder dirt and small gravel, but at least its not sand! It is also small, which would be OK but we just expanded the beach track this weekend to 10th scale size and it rocks. There are benefits to running on sand though, it's much softer to land on. Plays hell with the bearings, to be sure. I suppose I can just split my time between the two tracks, they each have their merits.

Now I have a question in the form of a problem. I have been having oil residue getting into my one-way bearing causing it to slip constantly, which has caused me to have to replace it once already. I have also replaced the backplate and output shaft due to the fact it had too much lateral play, causing (I believe) the first bearing to go. I did not notice the bearing slipping because I was using the Rotostart, I have since switched to a pull-start. Even with the new bearing, backplate and output shaft, I still get oil in the one-way. When I drive the car, after I shut it off it won't catch due to the oil in the bearing. I have to pull the rear end off, clean the bearing and backplate and reassemble everything in order to get the bearing to catch for re-start. Needless to say, this is getting old fast. What I need to know is /A: What is causing this /B: If anyone else running the OS 18 CV-RX is having this issue and /C: What can I due to remedy this? My car mechanic buddy says this problem is inherent to the design, the notch in the output shaft which fits onto the crankshaft makes the output shaft out-of-balance and at the high RPMs these engines pull causes vibration which wears the bushing and shaft- result, leaking engine oil down the shaft into the bearing. Now this may be true, but these items are brand new, only used a total of maybe 4 hours, I hope they don't wear that quickly. Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated.