Official HPI MT2 Thread
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From: gravenhurst,
ON, CANADA
the 18ss kit has slightly less top end, same acceleration.
the g3.0 comes with a radio while the 18ss has some chassis hop-ups instead: re-enforced diff's, some other small stuff.
18ss comes with a clear body while the g3.0 is painted (i think).
if you need a radio or are completely new to rc nitro) then the g3.0 is the way to go as it is assembled and ready to go.
if you have a radio allready and are not afraid of turning a box of parts into a nitro car then the 18ss+ is the way to go.
the g3.0 comes with a radio while the 18ss has some chassis hop-ups instead: re-enforced diff's, some other small stuff.
18ss comes with a clear body while the g3.0 is painted (i think).
if you need a radio or are completely new to rc nitro) then the g3.0 is the way to go as it is assembled and ready to go.
if you have a radio allready and are not afraid of turning a box of parts into a nitro car then the 18ss+ is the way to go.
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From: Bridgewater,
NJ
ORIGINAL: caspar21
the 18ss kit has slightly less top end, same acceleration.
the g3.0 comes with a radio while the 18ss has some chassis hop-ups instead: re-enforced diff's, some other small stuff.
18ss comes with a clear body while the g3.0 is painted (i think).
if you need a radio or are completely new to rc nitro) then the g3.0 is the way to go as it is assembled and ready to go.
if you have a radio allready and are not afraid of turning a box of parts into a nitro car then the 18ss+ is the way to go.
the 18ss kit has slightly less top end, same acceleration.
the g3.0 comes with a radio while the 18ss has some chassis hop-ups instead: re-enforced diff's, some other small stuff.
18ss comes with a clear body while the g3.0 is painted (i think).
if you need a radio or are completely new to rc nitro) then the g3.0 is the way to go as it is assembled and ready to go.
if you have a radio allready and are not afraid of turning a box of parts into a nitro car then the 18ss+ is the way to go.

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the 18 SS+ kit has more top end because it comes with a 49 tooth spur where the g3.0 has a 52 tooth spur. 49/15 in the kit should be fast enough for most but I prefer 52/14 for smaller spaces and better acceleration. 52/15 is the stock g3.0 gearing.
the kit version engine is a standard threaded crank so it uses a pilot shaft adaptor instead of the g3.0 engine set up because the g3.0 engine is a pilot shaft engine, not standard crank. I dont know why they did this between two mostly otherwise similar cars.
the g3.0 engine mount is actually better because it is a one piece design and offers more solid support. the kit uses two purple mount pieces on each side of the engine that are not connected. when I tried to put the g3.0 mount on my OS 18 CV RX it would not fit because of the pull start so I had to use the kit engine mounts (as well as the pilot shaft adaptor because that OS engine is a standard crank). (i didnt build my SS+ kit yet so its without a few parts for now)
also the kit comes with pin tires so if you get that you may want to get some dirt hawg/geolander tires for pavement use to not wear the pins down when not on dirt.
the kit version engine is a standard threaded crank so it uses a pilot shaft adaptor instead of the g3.0 engine set up because the g3.0 engine is a pilot shaft engine, not standard crank. I dont know why they did this between two mostly otherwise similar cars.
the g3.0 engine mount is actually better because it is a one piece design and offers more solid support. the kit uses two purple mount pieces on each side of the engine that are not connected. when I tried to put the g3.0 mount on my OS 18 CV RX it would not fit because of the pull start so I had to use the kit engine mounts (as well as the pilot shaft adaptor because that OS engine is a standard crank). (i didnt build my SS+ kit yet so its without a few parts for now)
also the kit comes with pin tires so if you get that you may want to get some dirt hawg/geolander tires for pavement use to not wear the pins down when not on dirt.
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From: Saskatoon, CANADA
ORIGINAL: ShoestringRacer
the 18 SS+ kit has more top end because it comes with a 49 tooth spur where the g3.0 has a 52 tooth spur. 49/15 in the kit should be fast enough for most but I prefer 52/14 for smaller spaces and better acceleration. 52/15 is the stock g3.0 gearing.
the kit version engine is a standard threaded crank so it uses a pilot shaft adaptor instead of the g3.0 engine set up because the g3.0 engine is a pilot shaft engine, not standard crank. I dont know why they did this between two mostly otherwise similar cars.
the g3.0 engine mount is actually better because it is a one piece design and offers more solid support. the kit uses two purple mount pieces on each side of the engine that are not connected. when I tried to put the g3.0 mount on my OS 18 CV RX it would not fit because of the pull start so I had to use the kit engine mounts (as well as the pilot shaft adaptor because that OS engine is a standard crank). (i didnt build my SS+ kit yet so its without a few parts for now)
also the kit comes with pin tires so if you get that you may want to get some dirt hawg/geolander tires for pavement use to not wear the pins down when not on dirt.
the 18 SS+ kit has more top end because it comes with a 49 tooth spur where the g3.0 has a 52 tooth spur. 49/15 in the kit should be fast enough for most but I prefer 52/14 for smaller spaces and better acceleration. 52/15 is the stock g3.0 gearing.
the kit version engine is a standard threaded crank so it uses a pilot shaft adaptor instead of the g3.0 engine set up because the g3.0 engine is a pilot shaft engine, not standard crank. I dont know why they did this between two mostly otherwise similar cars.
the g3.0 engine mount is actually better because it is a one piece design and offers more solid support. the kit uses two purple mount pieces on each side of the engine that are not connected. when I tried to put the g3.0 mount on my OS 18 CV RX it would not fit because of the pull start so I had to use the kit engine mounts (as well as the pilot shaft adaptor because that OS engine is a standard crank). (i didnt build my SS+ kit yet so its without a few parts for now)
also the kit comes with pin tires so if you get that you may want to get some dirt hawg/geolander tires for pavement use to not wear the pins down when not on dirt.
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From: Saskatoon, CANADA
ORIGINAL: rclynx
I use white lythium grease [:-]
I use white lythium grease [:-]
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From: gravenhurst,
ON, CANADA
i have heard lithium grease works well without attracting dirt.. i end up keeping them clean and oil free mainly because i run in sandy areas.
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From: gravenhurst,
ON, CANADA
with nothing to lube them at all... i have 3 jugs of fuel through my 18ss+. they are starting to show light wear now.
i only disassemble them to clean them if they get mud packed into them. the are dusty after most runs.. but thats it.
i would rather find double ended cvd's for all the shafts personally.. but i only see the single sided ones. wonder why??
is it a length change when the suspension flexes or what?
i know full size cars use double ended cvd's with a splined shaft to allow length changes. that system has to be better than dog bones on one end. would keep things together better under arm breakage situations too.
i only disassemble them to clean them if they get mud packed into them. the are dusty after most runs.. but thats it.
i would rather find double ended cvd's for all the shafts personally.. but i only see the single sided ones. wonder why??
is it a length change when the suspension flexes or what?
i know full size cars use double ended cvd's with a splined shaft to allow length changes. that system has to be better than dog bones on one end. would keep things together better under arm breakage situations too.
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From: Saskatoon, CANADA
yeah man I know what you saying. the revo has double ended plasitc cv shafts but not the steel ones there cvd's I really like hpi parts for the ss I have another car that the drive cups always get huge grooves in and the hpi parts are way stronger. So I put the mt2 18ss parts into my redcat
much better. someone had mentioned using a lube that goes on wet but dries after you put it on so it wont attract dirt but I cant remember what it was....
much better. someone had mentioned using a lube that goes on wet but dries after you put it on so it wont attract dirt but I cant remember what it was....
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From: Saskatoon, CANADA
Sweet thanks man. But I wont have to worry about that for a while I smashed head on into a grand am gt I was doing 34-40 mph and the grand am was doing about 30 lets just say the grand am won
that was with my half mt2 I still have my mt2 18ss for now lol I just have to put my radio in it.
that was with my half mt2 I still have my mt2 18ss for now lol I just have to put my radio in it.
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From: Saskatoon, CANADA
lol but I guess thats a part of the hobby to use break and fix them lol. What are some really good on road tires? Im thinking of getting some 30 series on roads.
[link=http://xtm-dealer.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products _id=286]ROAD RAGE[/link] with [link=http://xtm-dealer.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=24&products _id=737]Pro-Line JATO WHEELS[/link] or if you really want to look funky try [link=http://xtm-dealer.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=24&products _id=722]Custom Wire Type with Dirt Hawgs[/link] they last on the street pretty good
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From: Kingsbridge, UNITED KINGDOM
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From: , MI
I just bought my first MT2. Couple things first, the truck is used and second I know pretty much nothing about rc cars. The problem I am having is that my MT2 is running really slow. The engine (OS .18) fires up really nicely, but once i hold down the throttle it sounds like a car in first gear that wants to go into second but can't. It revs really high and the gears sound like they are grinding. The truck moves but only a third of the speed that it did before. Please help!!!!
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From: .....,
NY
If you place the truck on the ground and try to roll it by hand does it move freely and smoothly? Do you feel any grinding?
It could be the diffs are stripped. If they were not properly shimmed, with that engine, they will strip out easily. The engine gear mesh could be too tight as well. Check those two things first and get back to us and we'll go from there.
It could be the diffs are stripped. If they were not properly shimmed, with that engine, they will strip out easily. The engine gear mesh could be too tight as well. Check those two things first and get back to us and we'll go from there.



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