Did you pull the sleeve out first?

Yeah, I figured that one out after about 10 mins of scratching my head. Thanks!

Now... there is a little pin type thingy [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGEH0&P=7]here[/link] that somehow connects the starting cam with the crank.

Mine does not have the spring. Is this supposed to be this way?

I seen it when I opened up the backplate, and it was sitting on the bottom of the case. About crapped my pants. Thought it was a piece of wristpin for a second... [X(]

Thanks again!

Anty

Aha! The spring was still in the end of the crank!

Thanks!

May I ask why you are taking it apart? I thought it was all most new?

It is, I got it last friday. But I am having heat issues. So I called HPI and they told me to seal it up. Nice RTR...

Anyway while I had it apart, I thought that I would check the pinch, and generally learn the layout of the motor and the ins and outs if you will.

That and I like taking things apart....

Anty

thats cool lookin what tire rim combo is that... i have stock tires and rims still ... is it still fast... i upgraded to the os 18 .. great motor

I'm having problems getting pics. I clicked on Click here to upload!, and then got 4 picture using browse, and i know they were pictures. Then, i clicked on upload pictures and after it was done and it said Your pictures have been succsessfully uploaded i clicked on OK, and nothing happened there was nothing on the post I was writing. Can someone help me, what am I doing wrong. Thanks!!

Also, i started taping my dodge ram body an have taped the 2 stripes on the hood and the silver around the hole above the engine, so far so good[8D]

The rims on my truck are Q6 savage rims and Savage .21 tires, i got them off of tower hobbies, makes the MT 2 have a lot more ground clearance but you have to do a little changin to the layout to get them to work, will post pics of close up pics later. Its still fast but i need to tighten up the slipper clutch and make some other changes.

The slipper doesn't do anything. You need to cut it a little to gain any use of it. As stock setup, I am near 100% sure the slipper won't move a mm over the life of the car. Mine is all the way out and its still way too tight. Test it out, wedge the tip of your finger in the clutch bell and spur gear and move the car backwards. If you bleed, its the factory setting; if its absolutely painful, it's tight.

Someone really needs to help me out on this one. Wedge you finger in the gears and just put the front wheels on the ground and try to push it. Do the gears click before the slipper functions? Mine do.

MT2 Beater:

Best way I found was to mask off the black, take it from the corner of the rear wheel opening up and over the the rear wheel arch to the back, like a big check mark. Then mask off the silver. Start at 1/4 inch behind the front wheel opening and make a bigger check mark that covers the black one. It should be about 1/4 wide above the black over the rear wheel opening. The stipes should have a 1/8 inch gap in the front. Just use 1/8" stripe tape on the outside then use, regular on the inside to make the straight side, then another piece to make the wider part to the 1/4 from the corner of the front window. Now tape off the rear brace bars for silver, just use regular masking tape and a very sharp, new Xacto knife and cut out the tape from the areas you don't want silver - kinda hard to explain, but now it is all taped off. Start with red, then unmask the silver, then the silver, unmask the black, then the black and presto - painted body. Make sense?

Bowties will not last long on asphalt. If you are going to run long a black top, get a street tire.

Combatcm:

I think you have blown front diff gears. How long have your run it with the original gears?

Guys, where else can I buy the T-15 engine other than tower?? I ordered mine about 3 months ago and they are still stating that they have them on order!!! It is killing me not being able to bash my truck!!!

If not the T-15, perhaps some one can recomend another good engine to replace the stock one with??? If you do, please post a link with ALL parts that would be needed to make it work so I can sus out the cost.

Please help me guys, using an on-road nitro just aint the same!!!! and thats all i got :-(

EJ:

Get an OS. Either .15 or .18 Tower has them in staock and they will definately run better. All your parts will transfer over, exaust, flywheel the whole kit and kaboddle. All you need is this motor mount 86045.

That is what I would do.

GRAN---

does this one fit ok??
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBZ30&P=RF

ta

Combatcm: If I fully loosen my slipper it is really easy to make it slip, are you sure the centre section is built correctly?

Ejmovies: I have a T-15 with brand new piston and liner for sale.

EJ:

That one will work it. I guess you saw that ChriX has one to sell, and I also have on sitting on my shelf that I can sell you as well.

Gran

I have the 18SS with all the hardened crap. The diff gears simply could not be blown as I have around 10 runs on the car. Also, the bevel gears were properly shimmed with little to zero slop.

The diff gears are the cut type, not the cast. I don't know if the RTR's are cut or cast.

It'll still run for a while though. I'm thinking that even properly shimmed, the diff gear still pushes to the side because of the plastic tranny case.

I suppose I'll crack it open to find out. The diffs are o-ringed, siliconed and sealed, so I hope its not them.

Combatcm:

I agree I don't think it is your diffs, but you are probably going to need to do some breakdown of the vehicle to find the problem.

I found the problem

It was the ring gear mesh. The whole diff was allowed to wiggle back and forth 1mm (I would advise checking this), that and gearbox flex made the gears skip and click. It required 6 diff bearing shims and 1 standard axle shim behind the ring pinion to fix the problem. You need to grind the back of the rear cup joint so you can add this shim. I bolted it up and tried to crank one wheel with the rest of the drivetrain seized and it didn't click.

If you are cheap, you could probably use fuel tubing as o-rings, as one of mine broke, and I used a piece.

On my SS, the manifold screws came loose, check those every once and a while. I got confused when I plugged the exhaust and it
kept running.

I use an AE low end pipe on my car and along with the .18 engine it has a great balance, acceleration and speed.

I also now have a metal brake disc from one of my buggies. I had to CA the pad on and drill new holes in the pads, they work great also. Locks them up, I have to dial some brake out.

I have another issue, when accelerating it veers to the left and right when braking, is this the torque steer or can I adjust the springs to counteract it.

Holy S**t those are some big wheels!

I would guess the wheels are contributing to the steering. The Bell Crank on the MT2 is not the best as compared to a RCGT or others. It has quite a bit of slop in it and with the larger wheels this just exagerates the problem. Are you using the stock servo saver? If so I bet it needs to be changed, this will eliminate some of the slop. I was actually in a race and had not realized that the C plastic servo saver had actually worn out - my truck was all over the place - just replaced it and I was fine. I bet those wheels add allot more strain on that little servo saver.

Gran

Actually the servo saver has a story to it. The stock one was utter crap, it was weak and had tons of slop. I bought a kimbrough large one and it was too big, the chassis was in the way, so I bought a medium sized one. I used it for a few runs and pulled it aside and noticed on the car it was extremely weak and would not realign the wheels. So I just filled it up with CA to lock it. The inner steering linkage has so much slop and bendyness to it, but more bendyness than slop, it won't harm the steering servo to even rock a solid horn on it. I was amazed at the low speed control, it was almost unreal how it turned. So in the end, just use a horn that came with your servo, it will be more cost efficient and better.

The only slop the linkage has is the should bolted center rod, which you can replace with some turn buckles and ball cups. Though if you get the powerline steering package you should use a servo saver.

If you notice the rear upper links are crooked. I put RPM rustler rear hubs on it and had to mount the studs in the back. Those powerline ones didn't look tough enough.

I broke a C hub while running today, I rammed into a heating oil cap thing in the side of my yard, the wheel busted off it's joints and was flailing all over as the car cartwheeled. I lost a machine bolt and its little spacer, so I used a tamiya standard self tapping screw to fix it. Should I get the C hub aluminum, or the steering block?

Thanks a ton Grantothismo. i was o anxious though i taped the side stripes about 5 minutes after my last post, but after i read your post i made some adjustments to the tape. When i did the black and silver stripes, i just used a sharpie on the tape to show where the black was so i can just use an xacto to cut out the tape.

I'm trying to get some pics of it but don't know how. Any help would be great

Bruno - MT2Beater:

Here is my 5th or 6th Dodge Body. I also included a picture of my Cuda body. MT2Beater, just click the Click here to upload - upload your pictures, wait ofr it to say they have loaded then hit OK when done.

May I ask why you would want to get this engine when it has a LOT less HP then the stock one? All so you can get the OS .18 CV-RX for the same price with twice the HP.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGP7&P=0

Ok I have an original mt and hope you guy's can help me out. I want to widen my mt and thought maybe I could use mt2 parts. If this is possible can someone tell me what is needed. I greatly appreciate any help. Here are a couple of pics that compare the mt to my other much wider stadium truck.