It wont make a difference trust me. There is nothing different between having just the front dog bones out and leaving the front drive shaft in or taking them all out. There is no center differential there is no way that it can put more power to the front of the truck then the rear. The power will go to the wheels that spin easyer yes but only one front and one rear can be stationary at a time. If you have 2 front wheels or 2 rear wheels that cant spin non of them will. So if you hold both of your front wheels your rear wheels will not spin and its the same if you hold your rear wheels. If you hold one wheel still the other 3 will spin or if you hold one front and one rear then one on the front and one on the rear will spin. Do you kinda get what im saying here? You can not have power only going to the front or only going to the rear if all your drive shafts and dog bones are in place. The front is given the exact same amount of rpm's and power as the rear its a locked assembly. Thats why it makes no difference at all if you leave the front drive shaft in place and only have the front dog bones out. If you take out one dog bone from the front and one from the rear out your truck will barely move and your engine will rev out. Thats because the left side and the right side are seperated by a differential gear set one wheel can spin oppisit from the other wheel on either the front or the rear. But you can not have both front wheels spin forwards and have both rear wheels spin backwards. Its impossible for the engine to rev out by leaving the front drive shaft in. Unless you have a blown rear diff that cant distribute the power to both rear wheels properly and thats the same even if there are no front dog bones and no drive shaft or leaving the front drive shaft in place.

And there is a reason 4wd costs more money lol its better and easyer on the drive train. I had one of my rc's set up as 2wd and it was just about imposibe to controle. Just my thoughts on that. Dont think im telling you what to do im just telling you what I found was better. There were times that I really likes having it 2wd on grass and clean concrete it was great but anything with low traction it was hard to controle. Try it out both ways man.

hey keithjv

i have decided to keep my car 4wd im going to put a g3.0 or an os 18cv rx in it alloy shocks alloy turning knuckles and i rotostart and ill be happy but if it keeps breaking after that then i dunno what im gonna do with it

thanks
hpidude101

I have a quick question about my throttle servo on my Raze ST. When I have it wide open then let go it kind of spazes and goes back and forth in a twitching like manor. This isn't allowing my car to stop after i let off. I know It's not the servo because I have tried 2 of them. What could it Be??? All help is appreciated.

n315on Are you using a standard AM/FM receiver? Or 2.4ghz?
Check the antenna wire for damage. Does the same thing happen with the steering servo or just the throttle? It could be a problem with the receiver. Try to keep the servo and battery wires as far away from the antenna wire as possible. And make sure the antenna isnt coming in contact with any metal.

hey everyone,
here it is...I was driving my HPI MT2 .15 with slick street tires on it the other day and drifted sideways straight into a pole. It broke my stock exhaust pipe at the point where it is bonded together( meaning i could glue it back together correctly ).

I happen to have a nitro rustler .15 with a pipe that is intact. the rustler pipe is almost an inch shorter and seems to be a bit bigger in diameter. also the stinger on the rustler pipe is shorter than the hpi pipe. since it fits i want to try it out on the hpi.

what does the difference in pipe size/diameter have to do with the performance of an hpi .15 ?
Will a shorter in length pipe open up the top end or improve bottom end?

BTW for some reason this mt2 has no snap off the line. everything is in order as far as gearing, clutch shoes and carb. I have to feather the throttle off the line but then after 1/2 throttle it screams off pretty good. hsn is tuned right and if i touch the LSN it boggs and shuts off.

If I remember correctly the shorter pipe increases bottom end and the longer pipe top end. The diameter of the pipe plays a role in this as well but Im not sure how much compared to the pipe length. The stinger opening plays a small part in the power curve as well as with the sound of the pipe.
If you arent getting enough acceleration off the line I would go with heavier clutch springs. You probably have .9's in there now. Maybe try 1.0 and see if that improves the take off. The heavier spring will cause the engine RPM's to be higher before the clutch engages so it will take off quicker.
Any pictures of the damage?

Sorry moderator,

Anyone want all of below MT2 SS+ brand new parts ?

As per pic:
1. #73948 7075 option chassis
2. #85074 arm set x2
3. #A808 clutch shoe x2
3. #1669 one way bearing x2
4. #85076 front upright set
5. #85077 shock parts
6. #A827 clutch spring 0.7mm

what do you guys use for a steering servo my stock one seems weak (yes the battery is charged) it turns sharper right then it does left.[sm=what_smile.gif]

You can adjust the amount that it steers each way. And as far as the servo goes im just running the one that came with the spectrum radio I bought. Not sure what the number is on it.

Hey I made a little bashing compilation. Everything that is on dirt is from today and the sand and wood chip lookin dirt is old.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIlpmVMgoVE

The Spektrum servo is the 590. It should have plenty of torque for the MT2. Im using MG995 servos I got online. Theyre not the greatest servos in the world but for the price you cant beat the torque. Ive been running them for a while and so far they work great.
You can adjust the end points for the steering depending on the radio you are using. You might have to adjust the tie rods and set them off center if you cant get the amount of steering you want in both directions.
I got the TZ out for a good run on Saturday. Unfortunately I wasnt able to get any video. Im going to put the two speed back in the truck this week and see how it runs.
Eminent, did you get the 2 speed in yours yet?

No not yet man Im trying to find some gears but without a paypal account its just about impossible

hey guys we need to be getting more pics of our cars i will be soon when i get my mods hehe hey keith hows the mt2 going? i have ordered those alloy GPM shocks titanium universal dogbones and there alloy steering knuckleshopefully there will be no more problems[]i picked up the shocks on ebay for a whole set for au$50 i thought a bargain so there on my way to my house next thing im going to do is drop in a g3.0 do the have more power than the 18ss+ and do you reckon the stock hpi mt2 18ss+ diffs could take the power if the g3.0 is more than the 18ss?[sm=confused.gif] thanks hpidude101

oh an can some one tell me how to load the images on to the thread thanks again hpidude101

hey hpidude where did you get your titanium universal dogbones and the alloy steering knuckles. I was also looking at the gpm shock set on ebay tell me if they fit and work ok. it hard to find hop-ups I have the newer mt2 3.0 wondering how much the other mt's match up with it like the mt 18ss. You here good and bad things about the 3.0 but I love mine pretty fast. also any tips on keeping metal on plastic screws to stay in. I wanted the hex conversion kit from hexcrews.com but this is what they told me. "Unfortunately due to the MT2 3.0 being an RTR without an accurate listing of the hardware we will be unable to put together a screw kit for it. We cannot guarantee the MT 18ss will work for a conversion type kit, but it will definately have some of the hardware you will need. If you have any other questions please let us know". I bet I could find the accurate listing of the hardware some where.

eminent what gears do you still need?
hpidude the trucks are doing well. The weather finally started to warm up here so Ive been able to run them a few times this month. Im going to be putting the 2 speed back into the MT2 with the TZ soon. I cant wait to see how that works.
The 18ss+ and the G3.0 are basically the same truck. One was a kit the other RTR. All the parts will work together. The 18ss+ had better diffs then the RTR's so they should hold up just fine. Im not sure on the power of the G3.0 compared to the 18SS. I think the 18SS engine was supposed to be "outlaw" class that should give it a bit more power. To load images you need to click "post reply" and not use the quick reply box at the bottom. The "post reply" will give you an option to upload images.

wil, what screws are coming loose on you? If the metal screws are coming out of the plastic then the plastic is stripped so changing the screws wont make a difference. Check out SMFstore.com they have a lot of screw kits available too.

Ill get some update pictures posted later today of both of my MT2's

This is how the TZ is sitting right now. It has a BUKU pipe, GPM alloy shocks, alloy knuckles (thanks eminent!), alloy steering set up, alloy diff case with hardened diffs and CVD's.

Your welcome keith. I need the spur gears and cb. Or do you think with a smaller cb that those spur gears will be ok? Dont forget that im running the proline roadrage tires there really short.

Which engine are you running again? The HPI 13/18 CB should probably work well. What size are the spurs again?

hey will and keith thanks for the advice i think i will keep the 18ss+ in the car keith your exactly spot on she is an outlaw so ill keep her in and i willl be racing a medium sized track dont those alloy knuckles make a difference i orderd some cos the plastic ones just keep poping of and i will be going hard around the track soon i might get an os 18 cv-rx oh and will i got them from gpm on ebay heres some liks for the dogbones steering knucles and shocks i alredy bouht the whole set they had left sorry hehe[link]http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=hpi+mt2&_s acat=See-All-Categories[/link]this has all the parts baisically for the mt2 but should fit the g3.0 chassis becase there pretty much all the samei will be getting pics up when i get the mods

hpidude there is still more shocks aren't these it http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GPM-Aluminum-...1%7C240%3A1318

yer mate there the ones i was gonna get but i got the purple gpm ones but yeh there the ones that would be perfect for your caranyways how is your mt2?racing it or any thing?

no I am new to nitro, I just bash. Looking for spare parts so I don't have to run to the hobby shop every time a screw falls out or something breaks, Ebay should work. I live in Minnesota there is not much for racing up here.

hey what do you guys recon to these[sm=confused.gif] im thinking of getting one[link]http://www.tsais.com/products/exhaust/tunedpipes/10/E1019-21.html[/link]

WOW ive not been on here for years ! lol (2006 to be exact !) This threade is a few hundered pages longer that last time i was on ! .

And thats pipe isnt to bad mate but for the price you can get better !

look back through the thread there was a few people with them .

Hey, i keep breaking my front c-hub and im thinkin of getting the aluminium ones but am i puting anything else at risk of breaking? [sm=confused.gif]
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/ite...ub-8-Deg__d13/

Wow. How did you break that?
The alloy hubs and knuckles are a nice upgrade that wont harm the a-arms. I dont recommend alloy arms though if you are bashing with the truck. They are ok for on road stuff but they bend where the plastic will flex.