im in high hopes of getting my mt out today. i havent been able to run it since i got it.

I posted that in the FS thread and am getting the parts in slowly to put one on my storm. I like the adaptation to your MT2 but find the wing a little big.

Well the wing is actually a placeholder till I find a different one that I like better. It was also a test run of patching the original mount holes up using epoxy so its not visible.

Looking at tower I kind of like the way the [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTKJ5&P=7]revo wing[/link] looks
I'll have to ask at my LHS when I go get gas probably next week if they have any in stock and to see what wings they do have.


Well I'll just edit instead of replying to my own post
Just went to my LHS and picked up the revo wing that I linked to it was almost a perfect fit with the default holes they only had to be enlarged around 1mm or so. now my truck don't look like its might fly away

My new wing from a revo pic decided to goto the shop last night got the only revo wing they had in stock.

I did notice now the truck can now make sharp turns going a bit faster now before it will flip

Now to enlarge my front tire wells slightly due to the right wheel catching it on sharp turns and then I'm done with this truck... well before I find something else to modify it with
Think my next project might be to turn a stock MT1 into a electric. Honestly I hardly use the stock MT seeing I have this one and have been trying to figure out what I could do to it and a EMT sounds like a interesting idea

Hello guys,

Please help understand gear ratio, transmission and final drives, I've done some calculation let me know if they are correct.

I have a 2 speed transmission on my MT2.

If I understand correctly our final gear is 2.92, correct??
I've just upgraded the stock tires to a larger diameter tire, it's 6/8" taller than stock...well maybe less my stock tires are worn out.

With the stock tires the 2 speed tranny had no problem shifting into 2nd gear, and it was setup the way I wanted. Now with the larger diameter tires it just doesn't change to 2nd gear.
I think it's due to the larger diameter of the new tire, could that be correct???

The stock tire took 13" to complete one rotation,
the new tire takes 15" to complete the rotation.

These were my calculations:

current setup with stock tires:
1st gear13/47 ratio of 3.61*2.92(final gear)= (final drive ratio) 10.54.........stock tire 13"/10.54(final drive ratio)= 1.23" (travel of the car for each rev of the pinion)
2nd gear-16/44 ratio of 2.75*2.92(final gear)= (final drive ratio) 8.03..........stock tire 13"/8.03(final drive ratio)= 1.61" (travel of the car for each rev of the pinion)

With new tires:
1st gear13/47 ratio of 3.61*2.92(final gear)= (final drive ratio) 10.54........new tire 15"/10.54(final drive ratio)= 1.42" (travel of the car for each rev of the pinion)
2nd gear-16/44 ratio of 2.75*2.92(final gear)= (final drive ratio) 8.03.........new tire 15"/8.03(final drive ratio)= 1.86" (travel of the car for each rev of the pinion)

The size of the tire does make a little difference, is it possible that's the reason the tranny is not switching to 2nd gear???? If I'm doing this right.....

If I was to change gearing to:

1st gear11/47 ratio of 4.27*2.92(final gear)= (final drive ratio) 12.46.....new tire 15"/12.46(final drive ratio)= 1.20(travel of car with each rev of pinion)
2nd gear-14/44 ratio of 3.14* 2.92(final gear)= (final drive ratio) 9.16......new tire 15"/9.16(final drive ratio)= 1.63(travel of car with each rev pinion)

Based on the above if indeed any of it is correct I would need to change my pinion gear to a 11/14 to match the setup that I currently have, and maybe that will fix the problem with the second gear not changing

What do you guys think????

I send you a pm about the rollout calculator I have that can be used to figure this stuff out...its pretty easy to use.

Ihave had my MT@ for a year or two and I am just starting to use it. have reset the carb needles and all that but I just cant seem to get it to run without stalling. Most of the time its from air bubble in the fuel line. Dont know how they get there but they are ther...when I gass on it hard its almost to the point of sputtering. ann rarely the card just gets stuck when its wide open, which ofcourse is a HUGEproblem. I keep tightening the nut on the side of the carb but can anyone help me with these problems, it would be much appreciated. thanks

First off welcome to the forum.
I would start by replacing the fuel lines. Check the glow plug and make sure it still glows completely. How old is the fuel you are using?
What do you mean it gets stuck? Whats sticking?
What nut are you tightening?

The fuels probly a year old. does it really go bad that quick? could proBABLY BUY A NEW GLOW PLUG BUT IT HAS BEEN REPLACED ONCE.(DAMN CAPS LOCK)
wHEN i SAY ITs stuck i mean that the throttle coming from the servo thing in the back somehow gets detatched when im driving, and sometimes it loosens up th nut under the throttle body on the carburetor.

Fuel can go bad if it has a lot of headspace for condensation to form and fall in the fuel. If it was stored with no head space it should be okay but why take a chance for what it costs.

It sounds like your ball connector for the throttle is worn out and needs replacing.

As far as the screw on the throttle going loose tighten it I have never had this problem and its obviously designed to not do this. Is the carburetor barrel stiff so that when the arm is moved it loosens the nut? If the truck sat dried up oil can make it sticky. Another possibility is that its not set at the right position and the servo when the throttle is closed the servo can still move (but the barrel can't) forcing the arm to move making the nut come loose. This could also be why the ball connector is coming off.

Vinnie,
I did a quick rollout check and your numbers are right, the 11/14 will give you the same rollout and get the shifting points back to where they were with the stock tires. The taller tires with the current setup are pretty tall and should throw the shifting point off a lot.

Check the throttle linkages to make sure they move freely. You might want to install the throttle mod to make it work smoother. If you look for my posts you will see some pictures I posted a while back. If you cant find them Ill post them again.
If the engine hasnt run in a long time there could be residue build up in the carb intakes. You can use an air compressor to blow it clear.
Nitro fuel naturally attracts water so if it wasnt sealed tight it could have gone bad.
If you can, take some pictures of the throttle set up. Maybe we can see if something is wrong.

guys a quick update

i have just finished building my 18SS+. As you can see ive tried to stick with the original hpi theme. only modification is blue bad horsie shock socks. build up was simple bar a few bits here and there. did anyone else find their kit was missing the screw for the filter. well the one that detailed in the instructions anyway

hope you guys like it

i think its been worth the effort

Holy crap i have been gone for a long time lol and there are still no tz vids on here......... com on guys get some vids of the tz power on here. I put a vid up of mine the day after I broke in the engine.

Nice paint job wongy the truck looks great.
How bout some pictures with the body off?
And Im working on the video. Still trying to teach the little guy how to work the camera.
Where ya been anyway?

Iv been fighting a virus from hell......... I could only chek certain emails on my phone but couldnt do anything on the thread. I had to completly reformat my computer 3 times it was a royal pain in the rear lol. and I have been super busy with the band. We played 30 shows this summer even opened up for suicede silence during there tour with slayer and megadeth. We played shows with bands from all over canada and the u.s. Im selling my mt2 now and everything that I have with it because I found a savage x for 300 bucks thats only had 3/4 of a galon throgh it. I dont want to get rid of the mt2 but the wife said thats the only way I can get another one.... and now your beating me in posts keith.... I guess im going to have to start posting more to make up for lost time lol

Well new to the forum and need help.
Took my mt2 3.0 out of hibernation and kinda detroyed it. Cleaned it up all nice and decided to adjust the carb. Well, before I could get it dialed in I caught a steel column with the L/F wheel, Took out the lower control arm. Luckily a store close by had the few parts needed to get it rolling again. After getting the carb set up pretty nicely I noticed the steering wasn't responding too well as the L/F tire slammed intoa snow plow. Well needless to say I need a few more parts now.
I tweaked the front of the chassis pretty good, enough where the steering was binding up.

Question. Am I better off getting all the parts needed from HPI or is the GPM chassis any good?

I was thinking of replacing the front C-hubs and knuckles with aluminum. Good or Bad Idea?

Where is the best place to get aftermarket parts from?

Sorry for the long post.

GPM from what most people say is crap.
I've had extremely good luck so far with the steering knuckles, rear wheel hubs, and shock towers. Now I did not have such good luck with the rear arms I had that were GPM. The rod's they gave to hold the rear arm onto the body are made so cheap and bent so badly its not funny. I actually thought something was wrong with my vision when I saw how my rear tires were sticking out at weird angles. Seeing both bent and warped in similar fashions I doubt it was a fluke with one. The ones I got from HPI on the front are still in perfect shape but to use HPI's I had to go back to nylon rear arms.

C hubs I thought about seeing I broke 2 when I broke the front knuckles, but once I replaced the knuckles with the aluminum I stopped breaking the C-hubs.

Can't you just bend the original chassis back into shape? If not I would just get another HPI chassis off ebay usually see them for around $20. The GPM one would probably crack from a hit that bent the stock one

If you can find it I've heard alot about billet aluminum but unfortunately I cannot find where to get MT2 parts made out of it. Maybe someone else can help here

If I had to do it over again I wouldn't have bought anything other than the knuckles from GPM the rest seems to have been a waste of money. Only benefit I actually received from the GPM rear shock tower was my homemade wing mount hooked onto it extremely easy other than that the HPI MT2 equivalent would have probably sufficed.(btw I have a extremely heavy modified MT1 that has 90%ish of its parts from a MT2)

So Knuckles get aluminum, rest get replacements from HPI IMO

it also sounds like you might need a new steering servo seeing you said its not responding too well. I'd try adjusting the D/R knob on the controller first though before replacing a servo

ok thanks for the help! Ihave just made a habit to go over and tighten everything before operation and its working fine now. I was having trouble tuning the carb but it just took some practice and its purring like a kitten now.

hi, is it fine for me to switch fuel. I am using 16% right now on my mt2 (t-15 engine) and could i just switch to 25% fuel with no problems ?

The chassis you should be able to bend back straight pretty easily. If not go with ebay for a new hpi chassis.
I have GPM shocks, knuckles and steering assembly and they work great. I dont recommend alloy arms on any off road vehicles. They bend way too easily. The plastic arms are much more forgiving.
Upgrading the steering servo is always a good idea too.
hobson 16% fuel? Is that airplane fuel? You should be fine switching to the 25 just remember you are going to have to retune it. Start from scratch or its not going to run right.
eminent you'll have to post some pictures of your truck again.

You should be all good.
I would set all needles back to factory and retune from scratch after switching fuels.

EDIT- Keith beat me to it, not just a repost.

Okay thanks for help like always guys

I must have hit the submit button just before you did slayer