Im using the 8 degree hubs. Im not sure if you would notice a difference with the 10's.
No problems with the rear hubs at all. I just installed them Saturday and they went in smooth.
Ill post a few pictures as soon as I finish the fronts

Thanks for the help. I was able to get get the chassis straightened out and just replaced the broken parts with originals. Turns out the steering servo was bad so Iupgraded that. Then decided to upgrade my controller and dropped an O.S. Max engine in. What a difference!!! Now I have to figure out how to stop the tires from ballooning somuch.
Only thing I am noticing is going to full throttle, it seams to havea dead spot (if you want to call it that). About mid way thru the RPM's it hangs for a second then it's almost like a power band kicksin.I do have slightlylarger tires than stock, could that cause it?</p>

If its cutting out at WOT then it might be running too lean. Try to richen it up 1/8th a turn and see what happens.

got some new alloy bits in purple on the way to me

i went for rear knuckles
front knuckles and C hubs

i am really concerned about blowing the diff. ive trawled through this thread and there is a lot of mentioned on shimming the differ properly. does this meaning the orange coloured shims until there is no side to side play in the diff. The build up manual states there should me 1mm side to side play.

ive brought a spare 86336 for when the diff does blow but want to minimize the chance of this as much as possible

dont worry mate as long as you got that 1mm of play it will be fine

You dont want them so tight that they bind but they shouldnt move too much sided to side. With the diff out try turning it by hand. When you are turning it pull and push on the diff cups and see if you feel any binding. If you do you need to shim them more. The problem is that when you are making turns the dogbones put pressure on the cups which causes the spider gears to bind and break if there is too much play.
One of the biggest things to avoid so you dont blow your diffs is 180's on power. That just chews them right up

cheers keith you have been very helpful ). i did rear somewhere that the diffs require 6 of the gold shims to shim the diff properely

im try to be not too heavy handed with thr throttle so all is well as the moment

i did find the other day that i may of over heated the slipper and it may need tightening. i pretty much lost all drive to the wheels and i thought the worst of it blew the diffs but on opening them up they were both fine and the clutch was fine so i can only assume it was a over heated slipper. ive tightended it down as per manual and losened it only 1/4 turn and noti the 1/2 as in manual but im tempted to lock it down but scared of damaging the diffs

on a different note do you know how much more speed i would roughly get if i changed the clutch bell to a 18T ?? only thing is i dont really wanna lose too much accelearation. does anyone know the best combo of clutch bell and spur for more speed. i dont want a 2 speed

I think that 18 is to much. What engine do you have in there? 18 might be ok with the tz or bb engines but if its the g3.0 or anything less 18 is to much. What spur gear are you using?

Ive got my slipper tightened almost all the way down.
18T would be too much, plus you would have to mod the engine mount because there wouldnt be enough room with the stock holes. wongy what engine are you running again?
If you loose power to the wheels you should always check the drive cups to make sure the screws havent come out. It will save you the time of taking the diffs apart if you dont have to.

Nothing special but i thought id show you guys what i have made at school for 2 GCSE's in resistance materials, a HPI mt2 Box lol

Nice hob. Im actually planning out a tool box of my own. I cant seem to find anything that has the room to carry what I want to, so I figure Ill just make it myself. Ill post some pictures when I get it done.
In the mean time. I installed the rear GPM hubs and the lower mount. To fix the problem some guys were having with the tie rods separating on the front I moved the ball mount closer to the wheel. The stock position had it all the way towards the center. By moving it outwards it allows a few more threads to hold the tie rod end in place without breaking it.

im running the stock 18ss+ engine. ive been sent a excell spread sheet and if you guys say 18 being too much what about 17t. only thing is i dont wanna lose too much accelration either. its also got the stock 49t spur. would there be noticeable gains in speed using the 17t

keithjv your new bits look awesome. cant wait to get mine now.

I think thats still to much man I had some real good speed running 15/49 gearing you might get away with a 16 tooth bell but I think thats even pushing it a bit. another thing is the roll out sheets you guys do is only on paper you can gear it to do 100 mph on paper but it will never go that fast due to the lack of power.

well took a pic of my truck before i ran the tz in hope you like it

Which pipe did you put on it?

i put [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKN4&P=7]this[/link] pipe on seems to have good power in topend and lots in the bottom i think

I heard some rave about the stock blue revo pipe with the stinger drilled out a bit being one of the best pipes for the tz. I tested it out in my revo when I had the tz in it and it seemed to be decent but all I had to compare it with was the traxxas "R" tunded pipe and I dont think there was any difference on the low end but the top end the stock blue pipe won hands down.

hey guys im in need of more help so can someone please assist )

i ran my 18ss+ today and after a few tanks on full throttle the engine was reving but there was no increase in speed or acceleraion

the diffs are perfect and shimmed perfectly so i know its not that

i beleived its gonne be the slipper. its tightened all the way down and then backed off for about 3mm.
if i let the car cool down it will be back to normal

anyone else experience this and how was it fixed

is it actually the slipper thats at fault or could it be something else

everything else is tight as they should be

maybe a snaped clutch spring[] or if the engine seems to be struggling to move the car it could be over rich.how much fuel have you put through the engine ?,what % of nitro?

for sale MT2 18SS+ cheap

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemID=556943

Check the clutch shoes. They may be worn or the springs may have broken.

i ran the car again today. i cant stop bashing it form some reason

the first few tanks are always ok and then the engine will sound like its struggling to hit max rpm and there is no acceleration or increase in speed. sometime the car will just rev live little or no movement

the slipper seems fine as its does not slip unless lots of pressure is used

i will take the car apart again today to find out if i can see whats wrong

if clutch springs are shot there would show signs of being bent out of usual position right. and what do warm clutch shoes look like !!

i have had a quick look at getting replacement a886 but a few sites are listing the a886 has now been replaced by hpi 86869 which is std on the g3.0. anyone know if the # 86869 is a better option ??

Check the dowel pins on the flywheel. I just put an OS .18 engine in mine, the dowel pins are pulling out and jammimg against the bell.




Keith, where are you getting the GPM stuff from??

I got my GPM stuff on ebay from rc mega outlet this last time.

wongy take some pictures of the engine, clutch and spur. It could be that you are running too lean as well and when the engine temps get up too high you are losing power. Check the temps. If you can make a video that might help too