Hello all, I'm looking to get a new rc soon and I'm pretty much debating between a 1/8 buggy (xt2, jammin x1x, picco, or hyper 7) or the MT2. I'm only going to be bashing, and I want something that can handle almost any terrain as I only want to get one rc. I'm not interested in a monster truck, and my price range is about $350 so that pretty much rules out truggies (which i mainly want). Does anyone have any input on what types of terrain the MT2 can handle vs a 1/8 buggy? Thanks!

I own both the MT2 and the jammin x1x CR they can handle about the same terrain wise. They also have around the same ground clearence. MT2 is about an inch longer.

Actually just broke my jammin x1x in today sucker has a very tight turn radius, and great handling.
Only thing is with the RTR X1x is for bashing you WILL need a Jammin CR Z-brace which costs $20ish if you are lucky on ebay($50 if you get it from ofna) and aluminum front and rear braces which I found for $30 on ebay but usually are $50 (why is it all ofna aluminum parts are $50-70 no matter the size...)
the Z- brace stops chassis flex from the motors torque (and is needed) the front and rear braces stop the flex from jumping. Also you will need a Hitec MG645 sero or better seeing the stock servo is crap so figure another $30
So all in all to make the jammin a basher you will need a minimum of $420 counting the RTR buggy (going off amains prices on the RTR not counting the $25 shipping)
but its a damn solid vehicle that is race worthy
It does use alot more nitro fuel than a MT2 though (around 2.5X more)
I'm guessing the other 3 buggies you listed will need a similar setup of parts seeing their all base RTR's

MT2 is ready to go out of the box. It could use $13 aluminum steering knuckles, but the stocks will be fine. I find it a good truck that has many possibilities in setup depending on how you want to drive it. You can jack up the suspension and slap on masher 2ks to go monster truck, lower it and put on slicks to be a on-road racer, or just drive it how it comes to be a stadium truck. You can even slap a bigblock in (with some work) and make is a ballistic missile.
Where as the buggy you can't really do anything similar seeing bigger tires will hit the body, its layout is pretty tight and set, and the arms don't have as much articulation.

So it all depends I love my MT2 and can't wait to run it again. (gotta dye its rims still if your wondering why its outta commission)

Thanks for the info! I think the adjustability of the MT2 just put it in the lead for me. I like the ability to change it depending on what I'm gonna be driving on. And 2+x more fuel doesn't sound very good to me. Thanks for the info!

Also, what size/how many batteries would be good to get for the roto start? I'll probably only be running about 10-15 tanks an outing tops. Would 1 3000mah be enough, or should Iget 2 2000mah, or what? Thanks!

yea 150cc tank gets around 7 minutes in the jammin

my MT2's 75cc tank with a Nitro Star T-15 gets 15-20 mins
A g3.0 I'd guess will get around 15 mins or so on the 100 CC tank thats standard in the MT2's now

my MT2 was pieced together from a MT1 it started as so thats why I have a smaller tank and engine.
I have a G3 I just don't use it much seeing the T-15 gets it to speeds I like.

Um dont steer him in the wrong direction....I Have a MT2 and the suspension is perhaps the worst I ever seen as far as adjustability goes. All You can do i change springs, oil and add preload spacers. There aren't any different shock mounting locations on it!

Also shop around cause I find some things to be cheaper at www.rcplanet.com and www.stormerhobbies.com than amainhobbies which everyone suggest but everyone isn't making loads of money so for the people like me on a real budget those first two websites work great! Like they have the Ofna Picco Buggy RTR for only $289 vs $319 on amain's website

there actually is err should maybe say was different shock mounting locations.

If you look at the top of the arms near the middle you will see 2 mounting holes. If you get HPI A456 theres a little piece in it that you can screw into the front arms if you get slightly shorter shocks (or put a piece of tube on to limit its travel) same is true on the rear there are actually 3 mounting holes for shocks if you look at the back of the arm.

I find the spacers work fine for the most part.

And I've seen worst in adjutastability in shocks. My one Tamiya buggy has the worst stock shocks I've ever seen, adjustable wise and durability(my one bend from onroad running...). They make the MT2's look like the pinnacle of engineering. I've also said it was modifiable never said it was able to do it out of the box just that it didn't need any parts so it doesn't destroy itself under its own power like the Jammin RTR Would without the Z-brace.



Side note 24 hours have passed and theres no oily puddle under where my MT2 was standing or oil on its chassis bottom since I sealed the diffs this looks like it might be a successful experiment(unlike my experiment for adding a center differential, which I'm still working on). Will know after I get a chance to run it if it will hold.

Also reason I picked amain was they were the only place where the Jammin X1 was in stock when I ordered mine and I know the price off the top of my head.

If all you are doing is bashing then suspension adjustability shouldnt really be an issue. The ground clearance on the MT2 and 1 1/8th buggy will be about the same. The difference in the run times is because the MT2 is using either a .15 or a .18 engine where the 1/8th buggy is using a .21 or a .28.
If you are looking to a lot of jumping then the 1/8th truggy is your best bet. If you cant find something you can afford then the MT2 is a good choice. The 1/8th buggy is more for racing vehicle then a bashing. I have an MT2, and both a 1/8th buggy and truggy and I can tell you they all handle differently.

Keep me posted Syco, I definitely want to seal my diffs and add fluid!
The MT2 is hands down a sweet truck does great on jumps imo and is very fast! And with the 100cc fuel tank i easily get 15-20 minutes of runtime on a single tank.
My next vehicle is between 3 truggies but I can't make my mind up: Losi Ten-T, Ofna Mutilator Pro .32 1/8th truggy, and Exceed Madwarrior 1/8th truggy

agree
my 1/12 truggy handles way differently than my MT2 also.

I would have said the Jammin .5 CRT but I find its way more delicate than the MT2 bashing wise, and parts are a royal pain in the ass to find. The truggies cheap (130ish RTR off ebay) but the parts to repair it are astronomically high if there able to be located. Hop-ups also cost a ton (like I said earlier) for a set of front c-hubs and steering knuckles it would cost me $120... (that is the cheapest I could find them) The truggy itself cost me $125...



will do only thing going to hold me up from trying it is I'm waiting for a Savage(yes another savage) to come I won on ebay that needs some parts dyed on it, and I want to dye the new rims for my MT2 with the savages parts all at the same time so I don't have to make multiple messes.
Putting 3 inch rims on the MT2 with HB GT10 tires I hated the white rims though

Hell might just pull my tires off my MT1 just to test it out

Okay I found perhaps the cheapest website for R/C cars
www.ultimatehobbies.com the Losi Ten-T is only $449 on it and the Thunder Tiger ST-1 is only $349...So many choices although I've heard great things about the ST-1 and its racing capabilities but I will just be bashing mostly with occasionally track time.
PLEASE GIVE ME HELP!!!
1.Losi Ten-T 1/10th scale Truggy - $449
2.Thunder Tiger ST-1 1/8th Truggy- $349
3.Ofna Mutilator Pro .32 1/8 truggy-$329
4.Exceed Madwarrior 1/8th truggy- $279

Well you can add me to the list of a bad steering knuckle darn it haha. Left front decided to crap the bed today on me. Just got the truck wednesday and was on the 6th tank of fuel and fired it up went about 20 feet and left front didnt turn and looked it over and yupper its shot. Gonna see if i can order the alum knuckles from the local hobby shop on monday.

no guys i was not bad talkin none of you at all i was talkin about another sit i was on not none of you

Do any of you folks know where to get the MT2 new for cheaper than $330 shipped to CA? That's the lowest i've been able to find

just get them from where 93dabeast said
http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...4&cat_name=MT2

I ordered a set for my Jammin .5 and got them in 3 days to the door
Way better than the 3 weeks last time I ordered a set from china and the price is on par with china's (I think the shippings cheaper also)

Also got a set of the alum c-hubs but couldn't use them on the jammin like l planned, they made its wheelbase 2mm's smaller and the CVD was pressed against the hole the shaft goes through on a MT2 though that wouldn't be an issue seeing the dogone has around 4mms of play

@$2 for shipping yeah its definitely cheaper! I Open my Email This Morning and a Guy is like hey you wanna trade your Factory Team NTC3 for my Thunder Tiger ST-1 and I'm like you bet your ass I want to...only problem is I love my MT2! And he says that when the motor is cold the starting sleeve or something like that doesn't want to catch or grab... is this something to be warry of?
My MT2 is still on the injured list so I would love to have a truggy to bash with and take my MT2 out on days when I go to the track just to run it not race though!

I am selling four nitros on kijiji and have one guy that wants to buy my CEN tonight. The problem is he wants to hear it run which isn't a problem except its 10pm. I hate selling stuff.... Its a brand new engine and I told him I won't start it unless the cash is in hand and there is no haggling under these circumstances. Of course I am nervous because I have to go to a parking lot with strangers to sell this and you know how wonderful engines run when they are cold....especially a 7.7.

Ok guys gonna order the aluminum steering knuckles but just wondering if there is anything else that is aluminum that would be a good idea to order???

yeah aluminum front C-hubs...I've broke three and I will only had my truck a month on the 9th

well different experiences for different folks
I've had mine since last year and broke 1 C-hub. Only reason the C-hub broke was because the nylon steering hub screw stripped out from the bottom and when I turned it caused the top to snap off. Other than that one I've had exceptionally good luck with the nylon c-hubs. Got em on 3 trucks I bash with pretty heavy. But I have metal knuckles on all 3 though.

Hey Syco...I'm trading my FT NTC3 for a HB Lightning Pro Today from Craiglist! HotBodies is HPI race program right!
So i'll have the best 1/10 4x4 with my MT2 and a Decent 1/8 Truggy!
Go Team Go!

Anybody had problems ordering through thetoyz.com can't seem to get my order to go through???.

Sorry to reask this, but I just want to make sure it didn't get lost in the thread unnoticed:
What size/how many batteries would be good to get for the roto start? I'll probably only be running about 10-15 tanks an outing tops. Would 1 3000mah be enough, or should I get 2 2000mah, or what? Thanks!

I would get 2 2400MAH Packs

sound interesting
lmight want to pick up some spare parts (if anything wrthwhiles left for it) at http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/garagesale/
the parts were ludicrously cheap for the most part
seems they stil got a few(near the bottom) tires and rims for it for $6-7 a set and the GT10's tire set at $4 per 2 (BTW I had a ***** of a time finding rims to work with the tires that would fit on a MT2)



agree 2 2200+'s at least. Personally I'd get 2 3300's or so, can never be too safe trust me its a pain to have an outing killed from the damn roto-start battery crapping out
I made a mistake and bought a Venom 1800 nicd when I got a roto start...
The battery would peak at 1200mah tops according to my charger (standard GREAT venom brand quality...)
could barely crank over a truck 6 times (if that)
Honestly I used to love the roto start till it became more on an issue than convenience (my savages engine hydro locked and the roto shattered the bearing on the con-rod...) I went back to pull starts this year, and honestly I kinda prefer it seeing I don't have to bother worrying if any batteries are re-charged seeing my nitros all run off AA's