Official HPI MT2 Thread
#8151
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Just got back from the track now. First time since putting the .18 CV-RX in it! Man was it awesome, but far out - that power is just waay 2 much! Hate 2 think wat the TZ must be like! As expected, I blew my rear stock diff! 
Oh well, gonna install the heavy-duty ones I bought now. I also whacked on the blue springs and 30WT oil all-round as per the 18ss config, seemed to handle pretty good. Perhaps just a little too soft though...what kind of shock oil configurations do you guys run? Whats best for the MT2 on a reasonably bumpy track with a few jumps?
Once again though - thanks for the advice about getting the CV-RX. I was racing out on the track with a few Sackers, a Kyosho megaforce and some other 1/8 scale machines - and the MT2 sure put in a good performance!
--Matthew

Oh well, gonna install the heavy-duty ones I bought now. I also whacked on the blue springs and 30WT oil all-round as per the 18ss config, seemed to handle pretty good. Perhaps just a little too soft though...what kind of shock oil configurations do you guys run? Whats best for the MT2 on a reasonably bumpy track with a few jumps?
Once again though - thanks for the advice about getting the CV-RX. I was racing out on the track with a few Sackers, a Kyosho megaforce and some other 1/8 scale machines - and the MT2 sure put in a good performance!
--Matthew
#8152
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Oh yeah...just one other thing. When I was down at the track, a couple of the guys mentioned something about add diff oil in the front and rear diffs. In the MT2 (18ss) manual, it just says to use a heavyweight grease. Which is better? What do you guys recommend? 46u?
Just want to get it right when I put my new diffs in!
--Matthew
Just want to get it right when I put my new diffs in!
--Matthew
#8153
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From: Macon,
GA
I use diff oil in my 1/8-scale racers but the MT does not have a seal but I guess you could use some sealer. Oil makes the diff act like a limited slip diff and depending on how heavy the oil is you can adjust the how much slip you have. Instead of using oil I use HPI spring kit on my MT. I tried to find a link to the springs but I am getting ready to leave for a race but I know it is on HPI web site.
#8154
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From: Macon,
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ORIGINAL: rcnz
Just got back from the track now. First time since putting the .18 CV-RX in it! Man was it awesome, but far out - that power is just waay 2 much! Hate 2 think wat the TZ must be like! As expected, I blew my rear stock diff!
Oh well, gonna install the heavy-duty ones I bought now. I also whacked on the blue springs and 30WT oil all-round as per the 18ss config, seemed to handle pretty good. Perhaps just a little too soft though...what kind of shock oil configurations do you guys run? Whats best for the MT2 on a reasonably bumpy track with a few jumps?
Once again though - thanks for the advice about getting the CV-RX. I was racing out on the track with a few Sackers, a Kyosho megaforce and some other 1/8 scale machines - and the MT2 sure put in a good performance!
--Matthew
Just got back from the track now. First time since putting the .18 CV-RX in it! Man was it awesome, but far out - that power is just waay 2 much! Hate 2 think wat the TZ must be like! As expected, I blew my rear stock diff!

Oh well, gonna install the heavy-duty ones I bought now. I also whacked on the blue springs and 30WT oil all-round as per the 18ss config, seemed to handle pretty good. Perhaps just a little too soft though...what kind of shock oil configurations do you guys run? Whats best for the MT2 on a reasonably bumpy track with a few jumps?
Once again though - thanks for the advice about getting the CV-RX. I was racing out on the track with a few Sackers, a Kyosho megaforce and some other 1/8 scale machines - and the MT2 sure put in a good performance!
--Matthew
I run 35 front and 30 rear.
#8158
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From: Macon,
GA
Now I am running a OS .18 TZ so it has a different exhaust but when I was running my OS .15 CV-RX with a side exhaust I ran long bolts and put lock nuts after screwing them in to the exhaust flange. One nut was kind of a pain to get on but never had a manifold come loose.
No I am not into drifting other then what is normally when racing.
No I am not into drifting other then what is normally when racing.
#8159
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From: Macon,
GA
Not sure what type of thread lock you used but with loctite you use heat to loosen it up so on the exhaust might not work well. Put the lock nuts did for me for over 5 gallons before going to the TZ.
#8160
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From: Moorpark,
CA
http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm
46u, is this what you were talking about a few posts back? how do they work? do you like them?
46u, is this what you were talking about a few posts back? how do they work? do you like them?
#8161
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From: Macon,
GA
You cannot post a link on a part from HPI web site or at least I do not know how and did not work for you either. I will look them up and get back to you.
#8162
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From: Macon,
GA
Here you go.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go
I think they work quite well to make your diffs limited slip. Only have them in the front of mine to make it pull through the turns better and help keep the rear wheels from trying to pass the front. (spin out)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go
I think they work quite well to make your diffs limited slip. Only have them in the front of mine to make it pull through the turns better and help keep the rear wheels from trying to pass the front. (spin out)
#8164
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From: Macon,
GA
They come with springs to do both the front and back. I tried putting them in both but ended up taking the one out of the back. A lot has to do with what type of track you are racing on. It is one of those things what work for me might not work for you so you will have to figure out what works for you. One of those trail and error things I am sure you know what I mean.
#8165
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Hmm...after my day at the track yesterday. I had a little fuel left in my engine, so I thought I would just let it idle and burn it off. I did this, however now when I go to pull the starter it is totally jammed! Could the piston be stuck at TDC and due to running rich, is creating an enormous amount of opposition force? Or is the pull-start dead?
How do you fix this problem, never had this before!
--Matthew
How do you fix this problem, never had this before!
--Matthew
#8167
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Thanks 46u.
Yes the glow plug is off and even then it is damn hard to pull. I burned off the fuel last night, but just this morning when I came to pop some after-oil in, I noticed how hard the recoild starter was to pull. I suspect it was due to the idling - just took the plug out and tipped the car on its side and sooo much unburnt fuel came out the exhaust. Just keeps on coming!
If I had a starter box I would just put it on that, however I dont! I just don't want 2 break the pull-start unit!
Any suggestions????
Yes the glow plug is off and even then it is damn hard to pull. I burned off the fuel last night, but just this morning when I came to pop some after-oil in, I noticed how hard the recoild starter was to pull. I suspect it was due to the idling - just took the plug out and tipped the car on its side and sooo much unburnt fuel came out the exhaust. Just keeps on coming!
If I had a starter box I would just put it on that, however I dont! I just don't want 2 break the pull-start unit!
Any suggestions????
#8168
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From: Macon,
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You dump all the fuel out of the engine and with the glow plug out you cannot get it to turn over with the pull starter? What happens if you try to turn it over by the flywheel with the plug out?
#8169
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
The flywheel is extremely stiff as well. I certainly haven't yanked the pull-start too far or anything. Was working fine last night when I was just burning off the excess fuel in the tank.
I would appreciate any suggestions whatsoever - I certainly don't want to damage the engine or the pull-start.
--Matthew
I would appreciate any suggestions whatsoever - I certainly don't want to damage the engine or the pull-start.
--Matthew
#8170
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From: Macon,
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If it is hard to turn over with the flywheel and pull starter and the plug is out I am sorry to say dose not sound good at all. Might be time to pull the engine and take a closer look.
#8171
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Yes, I believe it is one of two things:
a) The engine is flooded, but so badly that it is incredibly hard to turn over.
b) The pull-start is shot
I'll take the pull-start off tonight and just make sure it is operational. If it is fine, then I guess the engine is majorly flooded. I'll have to take the car down the local track and get one of the guys to put it on a starter-box.
--Matthew
a) The engine is flooded, but so badly that it is incredibly hard to turn over.
b) The pull-start is shot
I'll take the pull-start off tonight and just make sure it is operational. If it is fine, then I guess the engine is majorly flooded. I'll have to take the car down the local track and get one of the guys to put it on a starter-box.
--Matthew
#8172
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From: Houston, TX
i jacked up mine a bit by using cen gennesis piggy back shocks for the rear a bit stiff but it works all rigth if u limit them i got some pics if u would like to see them [email protected]
#8173
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From: Macon,
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If the engine is flooded and you have the glow plug out it still should not be that hard to turn over. With the glow plug in yes as it would hydro lock but with the plug out it would just shoot all the fuel out the plughole. I do hope I am wrong but do not think so.
#8174
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Took the pullstart off, and it is fine. I got a bit worried at that point, as it indicated something was up with the engine. However, I thought I would take the hair dryer to it and see if I can get it warmed up a little. Did that, and I could then pull the starter. Still lots of unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust, must have been running seriously rich! I think that, combined with the fact that when cold it is hard to pullstart anyway, must have caused that problem!
I think this little problem has convinced me to go the down the line of a starterbox. I will probably need one in the long run if I get a 1/8 car....
Anyway, thanks for your help 46u. Once again yet another problem adds to building up experience with Nitro engines!
--Matthew
I think this little problem has convinced me to go the down the line of a starterbox. I will probably need one in the long run if I get a 1/8 car....
Anyway, thanks for your help 46u. Once again yet another problem adds to building up experience with Nitro engines!
--Matthew
#8175
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From: Macon,
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I am glade you got it fixed and was nothing major but still sounds strange. But being I have been a mechanic none stop for over 30 years I have seen a lot of strange things! I got my first starter box to start my Hyper 8 buggy not long ago but would like to get another one for my MT. The problem with only having one is it is a pain to change the setup back and forth for each vehicle.


