Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
#301
Hey willy, have you tried out that clutch set up yet? My dynotech clutch bell makes my clutch shoes slip for some reason but with the stock clutch bell they grab on fine.
#302
ok just took pics of the paintjob that i did today black with blue flames, a little better than it was last time. this is what i am going to do on my car- still a littel hacky but im gettin used to it.
#304
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From: perth, AUSTRALIA
I tryed what u did works great i just bought an evader about 4 days ago i took it to a buggy track and i was wundering why it woulded start
but i soon noitced that there was compreshion coming out of the caskit so i took it out and there was a bit of a dent in it so i put the dend upways in to the glow plug worked find for a little wile then got a nother hole so i did what u did
but i soon noitced that there was compreshion coming out of the caskit so i took it out and there was a bit of a dent in it so i put the dend upways in to the glow plug worked find for a little wile then got a nother hole so i did what u did
#305
oh that smudge is from the paint. i started to paint it then i though hmmm... will this paint stick to the helmet and then i went over it again with paint so thats y is just paint
tomorrow im doin flames on the jaw mask thing. got them from this site http://www.rcxotic.com/downloads-cat-1.html
tomorrow im doin flames on the jaw mask thing. got them from this site http://www.rcxotic.com/downloads-cat-1.html
#308
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From: Greer,
SC
Engines require constant tuning in 1:1 cars the computers update the tune many times a second. In rc you don't need to go that deep, but they do need to be tuned daily due to the fact that many things from temp to humidity can affect the tune. If you didn't changeth te tune in a week that would cause the engine to be so wrong it wouldn't start. It sounds to me like all you needed to due was reset the needles to factory and re tune the engine for performance.
#309
Shmeal: I would have today, but moving back into my dorm took the day from me. I don't ahve much going on tomarrow, so maybe I'll get to it in the morning. I have an itch to try it out for myself[:@].
#310
Do you think that any tmaxx clutch shoes will fit? I work at a hobby shop and we carry aluminum clutch shoes for the tmaxx but they have one hole per shoe instead of two like the one that you have.
#311
the second hole (and the others) is just for running the clutch at different settings, you can adjust how hard it engages and at different rpms.
#312
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From: Greer,
SC
Smheal any tmaxx shoes fit i have been runing the standard ones just trimmed down for a while, but didn't know what kind they were.
#313
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From: Wausau,
WI
you may have lost compression. this is due to a burned out piston and sleeve. mine did the same, easy to start cold because the engine was "gummy" with lube. then when it heats up the "gum" is gone and there is not enough compression the run the engine at low speeds. You need to get a new piston and sleeve for about $35 and rebuild the motor. then try not to "lean" the engine as much. I just rebuild my engine 3 weeks ago and it is like new. i am now working with a "temp gun" to keep the engine temp around 220 degrees to ensure that is lasts longer
#314
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From: Wausau,
WI
i have a $40 duratrax certificate(for tower hobbies) that came with my evader. i am going to get the duratrax flashpoint temp gun for $25 and then a new steering servo from towerhobbies.com. any suggestions on the servo? it has to be a duratrax or sub company of.
#315
i just did the ****tiest paintjob that someone has ever done the paint blead through the god damn mask that i made out of a plastic label. how the hell does that work? paint going through plastic. cmon *** her that is gay
#316
Ahhhh! that sucks! How does piant go through plastic that just doesnt make any sense. Youll justr have to go over it with another base coat and try again
#318
yeah infinity i think thats what im going to do, but its gunna take a small @$$ brush and some patience something that i dont have lol i will post pics after im done with it. oh and i just painted a skull on it heres what it looks like only light metalic green
#319
Finally, I found the time to test the new shoes for ssrcracing. I thrashed a perfectly new hole shot tire because I ran in ovals [:@][:@][:@][:@][:@]. The shoes worked great! I didn't need to mod anything and the REALLY grab the CB. Nuff said.
#322
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From: Wausau,
WI
i think that alum. is softer than steel. so in thinking that, the shoes would wear out faster than the clutch bell. other have stated that the teeth on the gear will wear out faster than the bell. Anyone have a suggestion on a steering servo?
#324
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From: Wausau,
WI
i hear that the stock on is made by futaba and labeled "duratrax". i see that towerhobbies sells a "duratrax" high torque metal servo that is $30 compared to the $40 futaba one... do you think these are the same??
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHMR8&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDWF8&P=ML
i think i will try the duratrax one, anything againts it?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHMR8&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDWF8&P=ML
i think i will try the duratrax one, anything againts it?
#325
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From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
if it's metal geared & high torque it should be fine, the only thing is it may be slower than the stock one. i run Hitec HS 625MG servos or better in my trucks & buggies, but i'm on a bigger budget.


