just start your truck up & lift the back wheels off the ground. if they are spinning while the truck is idling the clutch is worn. it is much safer than having a clutch spinning with nothing holding it in place. you should be able to have your truck sit at idle & not have the wheels spin.

lol i forgot about that i was thinking of that when i was typing that like, if that spring is worn then it snaps well that would be realy bad
BUT, the one bad thing about that idea dicko, is that if your idler is in to much it can engage cause the RPMs are up cause its trimed wrong or idling high but, alot of people eather have the idler set to high or way to low where its trying to keep alive but it cant so, i think its when u feel like its going, replace it. and i find this funny my clutch spring broke on me like 3 days ago waiting on tower!!!!! i didnt seam like it was going to brake but o well i got 4 ST-15 springs so i have a mess load of back ups

well i was wondering before i do this rebuild what should i watch out for when i replace my clutch spring like is it hard or just hold the 2 pads in the spring and pop them on i just want to know before i do it when i get my shipment?

put the shoes together, join the spring & roll it on. sometimes it is easier to leave the shoes on the fly wheel. if the old spring has a visible wear mark from rubbing on the CB, your shoes are worn as well. you will either need to replace them or cut the groove that the spring sits in deeper. you may also need to clip a bit off the spring to shorten it if this is the case. the white shoes tend to wear out pretty quick.

Got a strange question. When my car idles now, it idles down to a decent RPM, it is a bit too high and is SLIGHTLY engaging the clutch. Problem is it them idles ever further down, after about 5 seconds. It idles so low I have to hit the gas every few seconds to make sure it doesn't die. Do you think this is a problem related to the LSN? I got it decent but since I go the idle good, I never did the pinch test for the LSN.

that's how it is supposed to idle, these engines aren't designed to idle for long periods of time, they are designed to race at high rpm. if it revved up at idle it would be mean your LSN is set too rich.

ya i think i need cut a grove maby my cb has a DEEP track in it i hope its fine
o will get a pic

hows it goin all

1) aluminum parts....if these are so bad (cause when you crash and break a part, an a-arm lets say, then it'll bend) so why not just bend it back and you're good to go?

B) crystals.....i got a pair of (green) crystals from my old traxxas electric rustler, and i tryed puttin them in my evader (and controller) and it doesnt work, anybody know what gives? I mean crystals are crystals, they should work on any receiver/controller.

aluminum dosnt bend back thats why>>> it snaps! or its realy weak but it mostley snaps

there are crystals for Rx & Tx, wrong way round & they won't work, there are also different frequencies, ie 40mhs, 27mhs 36mhs & 70 mhz. again a 40 mhz won't work in a 70 mhz radio. some brands (ie futaba) have crystal specific radios, so a JR crystal won't work properly in them. and also crystals have a shelf life, after a while they start to glitch, then die.

My clutch is toast and both my shipments (18 CV-RX and dump load of tower stuff) were lost in mail or something.

Doing fedex and ups tracking. *sigh*

As you guys might know I am new to Nitro, had a competition electric a while ago. My old differential was HUGE, like over an inch tall. I saw the NEST's diff in the LHS today, TINY! Ever since I got the truck running good, it makes a metallic noise when I turn one wheel with the engine off. I tightened it pretty good, I think it could go tighter. If you go as tight as possible, it would make it almost like a solid axle right? Why don't they make these things with solid axles anyway... I mean when I am out in the loose dirt and the right tire is in softer sand, it tends to take off faster than the left and cause it to swing to the left as I punch the throttle. Is this a symptom of a loose diff?

Oh one other thing, I was havin some fun doing donuts on the tar today and ballooning one tire in the air while the other side sat still, looked awesome... till I snapped the little pin in the CV joint on the tire end of it. (you know the ball part, not the one connected to the diff) There is that little allen wrench thing inside the ball, and the pin was gone. I acutally think it might have just SPUN out because I had the wheel ballooning like crazy and the allen wrench nut seemed kind of loose. So what I did was cut a small body cotter pin to length, place it in the slot and tighten that allen wrench screw in on it. It seemed to be thinner than should be, but I think it will hold. Anyone else ever have this situation?

Oh.. about that 90 bumper to bumper thing... does that cover those CV joints and the exaust and the shocks? I obviously busted the CV joint, and the exaust popped off on a rock and got dented REAL bad (car landed on it sideways). Also two shocks have blown gaskets and I refilled one by using some oil / oil seals out of my old electric... the oil is WAY too thick and so were the seals but it got in running again...

put some heat shrink over those cv joints & it will hold the pins in place if the grub screw does let go.

the reason the diff isn't locked is that on tight turns the indide wheel spins slower than the outside wheel, it also stops your slipper burning out so quick.

Awesome, that helps a lot. I am now going to tower to check out if they stock what you called the grub screw, because I lost that today!

Well apparently they don't sell it! Any idea where I can get one? I don't want to blow $17 on the shafts...

ya they do
look for it whats it for? i will find the link for ya

you can pick them up from a fastening place for a few cents each. try you local hardware store, they will probably have them too at a cheeper price than tower.

Dicko, problem being I didn't lose JUST the grub screw, I lost the thing it screws into as well. The COLLAR that sits in the shaft. They wouldn't have that, would they? (hardware store)

towere u want a link JUST ASK i wil be happy to help ya

ok what ever i just did it for ya
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMJ6&P=Z i think thats the right size

well i cant find the other part but at least i tryed for ya

Yeah I knew about those, I need the collar too. Thanks anyway Brown.

looks like you'll be buying the whole cv set up. dtxc 7283. if you want to you can get the MIP Cv shafts (i think they arre XXT ones) & swap your rear hubs to the Associated B4 rear hubs like i did, the MIP shafts are much stronger. i posted how i did it on the original thread. if you search on B4 hubs you should get it. you have to swap them round so th e left hub is on the right, do a bit of drilling & put spacers in the right position for it to work but it is one of the best mods i did (right behind the better radio system & fuel tank).

If I bought some heavy duty pins and bent them at the edges around the joint, it should hold right?

the pins need to rotate a bit so that the joint will roll freely. bending heavy duty pins will probably damage the cup too. i have heard of people using split pins in there, but i've found a bit of heat shrink works really well.