David D

Dickos post is spot on. I thought i would add though that i ran the .12 with bx gears and mashers, and it will do it but not well. It did fine with the stock gearing though.

zellers88

I failed to mention that I can also not find the fantom .18 on stormer hobbies or on ebay. Anybody know a website that has either the .15 or the .18? Oh yeah and fantom makes a .15 engine, this is what it says on stormer hobbies under the .12
"With months of development and testing behind them, Fantom is pleased to announce the release of their 2005 FR12 and FR15 racing engines!"...and yet no .15 on stormer hobbies

scottywilkes

um what is a good brake that is a replacement for the stocker cause my stockers do not provide me with much braking. Also is there any aftermarket screw for the engine that hold the engine mount to the chassis cause mine have all stripped or been sheered of and are there any aluminium blue annodized wheel nuts that fir the evader. CHEERS

cookie monster

for the brake its best to get the aluminum one. it doesnt strip out the center of the brake and works great.

scottywilkes

no i mean actual disk brake not hte support

cookie monster

but when you get the aluminum brake nut the brake disk doesnt go away and if you set your linkage up correctly you should be ok.

scottywilkes

it is the disks though i have had a few and they have all buggered up i was looking for liike a fibre brake or aluminium disk but i might give the nut a go. Is there a carbon or fibre disk that can be retrofitted to fit on the evader

chriswebb70

Someone help me.....

I cant figure out why my engine keeps dying.
I have a Nitro Evader ST, with an OS .18 CV-RX engine, and the RC10GT fuel tank.

It runs great, for about 10-15 minutes, and then sputters and dies. When I checked the fuel line, there is no fuel getting to the carb.

Why does it keep doing this? Why would fuel, all of a sudden after 10-15 minutes of great, problem-free running, stop flowing to the carb?

Any thoughts/suggestions, anyone? Would be greatly appreciated.

IZZYinIOWA

do you have any crap in the tank that would be getting stuck in the fuel intake? do you have a fuel filter? is it plugged? does the fuel line that goes from the muffler to the tank have a hole in it or not sealed? is the intake line on the gas tank fit good? when i first put my rc10gt tank in the fuel line that i had was too large of diameter for the tank and wouldn't seal

just a few ideas. good luck!!!

zellers88

hey, tomorrow I'm going to put the braking assembly back together because I should be getting the aluminum brake nut and I am thinking that the flanged brake spacer goes on the bottom and the flange is sandwiched between the two metal plates. Am I right?

brownstone101

hey its finley sunny here and i decide to do a little upkeep on it and get back out there (been very busy) my question is.... dose the stock Tmaxx clutch work on the evader? i just left the forums when u guys were discusing that.. lol timeings everything. because my stock clutch is toast and i need a new CB cause mine has a bad grove in it and a new glow plug and it should be working great agin
nice to be back and thanks for any help

Snipin_Willy

Stock T-maxx shoes should work, you'll be the first to test them out I suppose.

I'm happy to annouce that I finally ponnied up the money to buy some stuff: 5-cell NiMH pack, 4 to 16 cell peak charger ($22, can't beat that), more velocity rims, and some step-pin tires for tomarrows race! I think this truck is about done, just need to get the HPI clutch shoes to fit.

David D

Stock T-maxx shoes work fine they won't look right, but they will work.

KARRS

Let's talk clutch's once again. I was reading about 50-60 pages back where various users were trying different set ups. Now that roughly a year has past with these clutch trials, which set up was found to work the best for our trucks? Some love the 4 shoe, some love the tmaxx. Now that all have been tested, please let us know what truly worked. Also, can you please post the links to the clutch that you recommend? That always helps.

Thanks in advance.

chriswebb70

Does anyone know of a good ehaust manifold for the Nitro Evader ST?
I just strupped mine out, trying to attahc it to the engine. I need a new exhaust manifold.

David D

The 4 shoe works great if you use a pullstart. The t-maxx were an alternative to the 4 shoe for those that bumpstart.

Snipin_Willy

That was the whole idea of trying differnet clutch setups. Find a better setup and still be able to use a bump start. Currently, I'm running a flywheel that was made to fit the original HPI MT and it looks and works great. the pins have the same spacing as the evader flywheel has so the stock shoes fit. But you have to take the spacer off the from of the engine and use a collet in order to get it to fit right. I'm still tinkering with the HPI racing clutch shoes and I'm not sure where to go next for seeking a modification.

zellers88

I found an idea for cv pins on tower hobbies. get these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXN174&P=7 and cut off a piece and stick it through the cv joint, make sure you have excess wire sticking out on each side, then bend the excess wire torward each other. I think this should work and if I lose a cv pin it is probably what I will do.
I'm now not sure if this will work, I will check and see in the morning.

chriswebb70

Does anyone know of a good exhaust manifold for the Nitro Evader ST?
I just stripped mine out trying to attach it to the engine. I need a new exhaust manifold.

Evader ---> MGT

Get the stock one. Anyways, my truck makes a whirring noice, like somethings winding up when I accelerate. The manual says it could be the diff (I just rebuilt it), but I want to make sure it isn't something else. It doesn't sound like the slipper. Thanks. The t-maxx shoes are 10x better than stockers, but you need to give the engine more gas to be able to move b/c of the stiff spring.

led1977

does anyone know of a steel or aluminum spur gear that will work for the evader

David D

The robinson racing aluminum spur gear for the rc10gt will work for it.

Snipin_Willy

Yea, rc10GT header will work. Just be sure to get the right one. They have one fore full start, and one for non pull start.

Evader ---> MGT

My truck makes a whirring noice, like somethings winding up when I accelerate. The manual says it could be the diff (I just rebuilt it), but I want to make sure it isn't something else. It doesn't sound like the slipper. Thanks.

Snipin_Willy

spur and CB gear mesh possibly