with the negative camber is it top's of tires inward to frame or outward from fame?

Negative camber is when the tops of the tires are closer to the frame than the bottoms.

Negative camber is what you want. The amount of negative camber (typically -1 to -3 degrees) will vary with the application and the available traction. The more negative camber, the greater the chance of the wheels sliding and the less of a chance of traction rolling. You want to use more negative camber on higher grip surfaces for increased stability.

Basically, when you corner, weight is shifted to the outside tire and the suspension is compressed. As the suspension is compressed and the vehicle leans, it typically reduces negative camber (Making the tire more close to striaght up). If you do not have enough negative camber, the angle generated (by the corner and suspension compression) can go past vertical. If it does, in many cases the tire will roll sideways under its own (& the vehicle's) weight, then bite and flip the truck.

The idea is to have enough negative camber so that, at the most extreme corner, the tire is vertical or very near to vertical (Still with negative camber).

Weirdly..yes, the tops of the tires were inward to the frame. The truck either flipped easier or flipped just as easy as the stock settings. This is weird because I know that negative camber is supposed to help, but I guess the truck is too high off the ground.

Not true, as the tyre is rolling and it is getting more vertical, it gets a larger contact patch and more grip, making it easier to traction roll... due to more.... traction.

Dann

Dan, you are correct as far as the tire getting the full contact patch. The difference however, is with a full contact patch, the tire is likely to retain its shape and can slide, rather than rolling the bead, deforming, catching and flipping.

We are talking offroad right? On a solid surface this is true but in a non solid surface positive camber will stop traction rolling..

If this guy is onroad i suggest he uses fuel tube to drop it to say 10mm off the ground and then use the fuel tube outside the shock to totally stop roll then go drive onroad.

Dann

Dan, if positive camber stops traction rolling on ANY surface, please show me which professional racer uses positive camber on ANY of their setups. By ANY, I mean on road, off road, 1/10th, 1/12th, 1/8th, buggy, truggy, monster, stadium truck, electric or nitro. Nobody runs positive camber.

You want a proper contact patch.

Have you checked the outsides of your tires - to make sure that they are still well glued? Do they make sway bars (Or can they be adapted) for the Rustler?

Slow down im not saying to use positive at all. hehe. No i race I know how to set a car up. I realise not to use positive of course

Im just saying that on a non solid surfae ( such as dirt or gravel etc ) less negative camber will lessen rolls. but on ROAD where is has solid bits that stick out and catch the edges of tyres more negative camber ( like 5* ) will stop the rolls. but as i said try the fuel tube inside and outside to limit most all travel and that should stop it almost entirely.

Dann

I already lowered my truck. Also, I can't find any sway bars for the Rustler. Does anyone know where to get any? I bought some Road Rages and Clawz for my truck, hoping that the Road Rages will give more road contact.

did the limiters work?

Dann

I'm still waiting for the front Clawz before I can run my truck. The limiters lowered the truck (arms flat with chassis) though.

well maybe the flipping over is caused by to much traction... ever thought of that if your going to run your rustler on the street you need (KNOCK ON WOOD) STREET tires. you dont buy massive dirt claws that are used for dirt on the street way to much tire for the street and way to much traction. just buy street tires if you are going to drive it on the street dont adjust anything just buy street tires if your going to drive it on the street!!!!!!!!

Yea, that's what I did. Here's a picture of my Rustler lowered.

then there is no reason why that car is flipping i have a nitro rustler and i drove it with stock tires of the street for brake in and it didnt flip once i even put my dirt tires (which are dirt claws) and ill floor it and go down the street at 35-40 and make a sharo turn and nothin ( I tried it yesterday just for you, oh dont you feel special) and nothin not one flip over, no up grades done all i had was the street tires and the dirt claws thats it and no flip over

LOL...Sometimes, there are different road conditions. My road is a bit "rounded" higher in the middle of the road than the sides where it meets with the curb. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the flipping, but if you come here and run your car to max speed and make a sharp turn, it will flip for sure.

well theres your probalem, the road, if it has a bump in the middle of it that is what causes you to flip so all this crap done to your car was for no reason.

get a sway bar and shorter shocks

my dad has a rustler, and we had the same problem, all we did was put pink losi springs and no spacers on it, and that fixed it right away, because the pink losi springs are shorter and stiffer than traxxas ones. Stiffer suspension less traction, and softer suspension more traction

Some people are ignorant...all the "crap" I've done to my truck actually helped it not to flip. And no, it's not a bump in the middle of the road...it's like an upside-down parabola, or shall we say arch, if you know what I mean? [>:]

well and arch in the road mean(KNOCK ON WOOD)a BUMP, and and no im not ignorant i meant all that money you had to spend and work u put into it was for nothin, ur problem is the road not the car!

1 1/2 inches of fuel tubing is like...15 cents...

Not sure if you have tried this yet but do you have any long zip ties? If you loop the zip tie through the a-arm and then up through the shock tower and start tightening it down it will compress the shock. Keep pulling until you get the truck as low as you want. You will have to do it to all four wheels on the truck but this will lower the truck to whatever ride height you want. Then take it for a drive. If this works then you can work on the shocks to get it this low. The zipties will be easy and cheap to see how well it makes a difference having it low.

The problem with those really soft losi spring is ANY bump at all and you are smacking the chassis on the pavement.

Get it as low as possible. Not sure if you figured out the fuel tubing inside of the shock but it works great. You get a nice stiff shock but it doesn't expand all the way.

Here is something I threw together real quick. Sorry its kind of bland.

Thanks for the AutoCAD diagram! I already did that though. If I knew about the zip tie trick earlier, I would have tested it first. The front end of my truck isn't as low as I wanted, but it's only a little off, so it's fine. Thanks for your help though!