i just got my nitro evader st i bought it off a friend, i rebuilt the motor broke it in but i can start it up and drive it around but if it shuts off the pull start slips and is fill with fuel. any ideas why? am i running too rich? also what size tires and rims should i get my original rims are all cracked up and i want to get some street tires. anyone try out the supercharger i was thinking about getting that or i seen something about putting a 3.3 motor in it. thanks for any help and sorry if they are stupid questions.

not stupid questions at all. Oh and welcome to RC Universe. the pull start just might be the one bearing the little bearing inside the pull start assembly just probley need to be oiled or cleaned try some brake cleaner or engine degreaser, and if you broke the engine in right it should be fine. does it sound loud and kind of sputtery well it should say in the video you may or may have got since you got it from a friend but anyway it says how to break the motor in and how the motor should sound if tuned right. someone may have a clip of that on here. could someone give this guy a link of how his engine should be tuned

Here are some nice front wheels also avaliable in white http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXDW23&P=

and here are the bac ones also avaliable in white http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXDW25&P=

These wheels are way stronger than stock

And as for the supercharger and trx 3.3...The idea of supercharging does not really work on 2 stroke engines and from what I have heard they provide little performance gain. However a trx 3.3 would give u a big performance gain but it would not be a direct fit you would have to get many new parts and modify sevral things.

well the original manual that came with it was wrong but heres a link to it
http://manuals.hobbico.com/dtx/dtxc0062-manual.pdf

I put a new one way bearing in there thinking it was bad. but for some reason the pull start fills up with gas i think and then slips. so i have to pull it apart and clean it out for it to work again. does anyone have any info on swapping to a bigger motor or a 2speed tranny? i just want to make it faster. thanks for all the help.

Sorry, but a two speed is almost impossible in this truck. Also, for a better engine, I highly reccomend the OS .18 CV-RX, and I think many others will agree as well.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGGP7&P=ML
Also, try the Nitro evader bx clutch bell and spur gear for faster speeds. Also, does the pull start start the engine, or is it already started and stall?

i would agree with the os 18 cv rx. awesome engine, and awesome price. i just dont know if the evader tranny could handle it. but if it can, it would be great. i have 3 of them, 2 rotary carbs, and 1 slide, and they all are fantastic. super power and easy to tune.

get that os 18 cvrx. bx cluch bell and spur gear and aluminum gears in the tranny.and you good to go

wow thanks for the great info. ill order the bx parts tonight. the problem with the starter, ill pull start it, drive it around a little then if it flips over or i shut it off, fuel gets into the pull start and covers the string and 1 way bearing with fuel i broke the string 4 times already cause the string got so weak from the fuel. i replaced the pull start and the 1 way bearing i just dont understand why or how the fuel is getting in there. is there some sort of seal that might have went bad? also i thought the rc10gt was the same car? so wouldnt the steel spur gear work for the evader? i thought i seen something about that and the rc10gt having a 2 speed tranny?

there is no 2 speed tranny made for the evader, the RC10GT is a way differenet truck and is made by team associated. yes u can make the spurs fit i think as a guy in the official evader forum did. Maybe your bushing in the backplate has worn and that is where the fuel is coming from, u could get a new backplate, but a OS18cvrx is the best way to go, make sure u get the alloy diff with the OS18 though

isnt there a os.21? would that fit? what makes the os .18 better then the original .18? i thought that the .18 it comes with is a os motor? would it be better to convert the original motor to the .15(i seen that in the official thread) or put the os.18 in? .

the OS18 is one of the most reliable engines made. It is made out of ABC, unlike ABN liek the DTX which is alot harder wearing and more reliable. The craftmanship in the engine is alot better as it is badged under there name unlike the DTX. It will wheelie all day long, and has alot more power than the stock DTX, and at only 109 US of towerhobbies it is a steal. It will hold a idle all day, and very reliable, tune it and set really. The 15 wont have alot of power, and it will cost more than getting the OS18. Hope this helps

There's a gasket in between the backplate and motor. Maybe that gasket is no good any more. Only thing I can think that hasnt been mentioned. Good luck. http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxc0062-exploded.pdf Scroll down to page 3...on the right is a exploded view of the engine. Part number 8 is the gasket I'm refering to.

Sweet! thanks!

ok i agree the OS. 18 motor is alot better but there is a work around the DTX .18 is built by OS for Duratrax you can cheat by getting the carb and piston and sleeve set for the OS .18 and they will fit i have done this with mine and it is awesome run great no problems except for a defective rod bushing also if you are somewhat new to nitros to save the head on it incase you flip over take and put some ZIP ties on the head it will save it from scratches as the zip ties takes the beating also your starter issue is not the bushing in the back it is a loose screw on the back plate if it is getting covered burnt fuel if it is raw fuel check and make sure u have no line leaks and that the carb is on securely also you can make a electric starter out of the messed up pull starter if ur interested PM me at max_pc_user on yahoo or teamtrinity63841 on AOL

if anyone wants pics ask and ill post

Did you replace the crank as well? I noticied they are radically different in shape and wasn't sure if that contributed to the improved performance of the os cv-r.

id like to see some pics and im interested in makin a electric start. i figured out why i was getting fuel in my pull start (raw fuel) my gasket was bad and i forgot a bushing. its all better now. my new problem is fuel again. for some reason fuel wont stay in the line to the carb it goes up to the carb starts runs for a a min or 2 then quits i go to start it again and theres no fuel in the line also i noticed that fuel is all over the place when i pick it up i get fuel all over my hands. im getting very disapointed with this thing its one thing after another soon as i fix one thing another thing breaks. i think im just goin to get a warhead evo or monster gt i cant decide which one i want. i want a good monster truck i can bash on and jump. which is better for jumping monster truck or buggy? i seen a buggy on youtube jump a house.

maybe your truck is leaking fuel through the lid on the fuel tank? how does the oring look? smooth and seals well? If it has a leak the tank won't build up pressure to push the fuel to the carb. Also chech the fuel line between the tank and the pipe, mack sure the ends aren't loose and are sealing well.

the o ring dont look bad but dont seem like its sealing well so i wrapped the tank with a heavy duty rubber band to hold the lid down.

hey mate if u want a good monster truck, definately get the monster GT, i have 1 and it is awesome, very very stronf, only broken a a arm from about 2 months of bashing, and a 2 speed gear, thats it!. Its a proven truck and is a great basher and can also be made into a good racer wiht a few upgrades.

If i was you with the evader, take the engine out and go through it with a fine comb. Take the PS of and tighten down the backplate screws, spray the OWB with some WD40, which will help with the slipping, and then tighten the PS on tightly, next go to the exaust screw, tighten them down very tightely, as they can work them selves loose easily, then move to the engine head, torque the engine head screw in a criss cross patters, so do 1 corner, move to the opposite corner etc, this helps to seal the engine head evenly. Did u remember to put the head shim back on?

IF u didint then the engine head has a metal on metal seal and that would contribute to fuel everywhere as it dosnt seal very well, if u take your time and go through everything i said then the engine shouldnt be leaking.

U can also seal the backplate and carb with copper gasket sealant to be even more thorough with the airleaks.

Hope this helps

Take the tank off the truck then place the screws back in the holes of the tank. Fill it up with water and watch for leaks around those areas (screws). Mine is doing the same thing and it's due to a crack in the tank by one of the back screws. I was going threw a tank of fuel in under 2 minutes due to this problem and my whole truck would be covered in fuel. Towwerhobbies has the tanks for $4.49. Hope this helped.

thanks ill try that out.

kind of curious about how fast the monster gt goes and if it will take a beating.

IF you want a Detailed set of instructions on making a electric starter for the evader please email your request to [email protected], Subject:Electric Starter there is a couple of different ways one is using a cordless drill and there is a couple of alternative methods i will give a detailed instruction on them, i will give individualised assistance to anyone that asks for ir

Hi is isnt really asnwering your questions but i was wondering what is a better vehicle.
-Duratrax Nitro Evader
-Team associated rc10gt