Official RC10GT Thread
04-16-2006, 12:33 PM
#1526
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
ORIGINAL: J_Bone
Ya, something is wrong then. It's hard to do it for you across the Net. lol....
The spring shouldn't affect it at all. The T-nut should crank all the way down tight. Then you back it off 1/8 of a turn. Maybe you have the T-nut on the wrong out drive?
Ya, something is wrong then. It's hard to do it for you across the Net. lol....
The spring shouldn't affect it at all. The T-nut should crank all the way down tight. Then you back it off 1/8 of a turn. Maybe you have the T-nut on the wrong out drive?
04-16-2006, 01:02 PM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
ORIGINAL: pilotwings119
I don't understand how rebuilding would do anything.. I just did that! Took everything apart inside the tranny case. And I found yet another problem today - the tranny-end of my "driver side" CVD can't push inside the outdrive all the way, thus making the springs lopsided. The CVD can't go in because of the added length of the diff spring. That definitely needs to be fixed... all this crap is so screwed up, and it all looks exactly like the manual says it should!! [>:][
]
I don't understand how rebuilding would do anything.. I just did that! Took everything apart inside the tranny case. And I found yet another problem today - the tranny-end of my "driver side" CVD can't push inside the outdrive all the way, thus making the springs lopsided. The CVD can't go in because of the added length of the diff spring. That definitely needs to be fixed... all this crap is so screwed up, and it all looks exactly like the manual says it should!! [>:][
]
04-16-2006, 01:27 PM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
ORIGINAL: Nitro Flash
I think I might know what your problem is. You might have the spring and "T" nut in the wrong out drive. The left out drive hub (#7668) is the one with the little shaft sticking out of it and is the one you put the spring and "T" nut into. The right out drive (#7667) is counterbored much shallower than the left and that would explain your problem with the CVD not fitting properly if the spring and "T" nut were installed in this side. I hope this makes sense.
I think I might know what your problem is. You might have the spring and "T" nut in the wrong out drive. The left out drive hub (#7668) is the one with the little shaft sticking out of it and is the one you put the spring and "T" nut into. The right out drive (#7667) is counterbored much shallower than the left and that would explain your problem with the CVD not fitting properly if the spring and "T" nut were installed in this side. I hope this makes sense.
04-16-2006, 03:26 PM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Finally figured it out. I feel dumb for it to have taken this long, but it's a weird thing that happened.
It turns out there was ANOTHER diff spring JAMMED down inside the left outdrive. It all makes perfect sense now.. I was able to pound and pry it out, and easily get everything assembled like the manual says - 6 balls, washers, spring, t-nut, everything. I had to tighten it a bunch, but the two outdrives always turn verrry freely when turned in opposite directions. It seems to run fine. It doesn't seem to accelerate as fast or have as much torque, but I might be able to work on that. I'm just trying to make sure that it doesn't come loose! It's hard to tell, but I think it's staying the same. When I step on both tires (engine running) and gas it, the spur gear doesn't spin around - so that's a good sign... right? And when I hold the spur gear and turn one wheel, the other wheel does turn the opposite direction. Anything else I can check to ensure I've got the screw tight enough/not too tight?
It turns out there was ANOTHER diff spring JAMMED down inside the left outdrive. It all makes perfect sense now.. I was able to pound and pry it out, and easily get everything assembled like the manual says - 6 balls, washers, spring, t-nut, everything. I had to tighten it a bunch, but the two outdrives always turn verrry freely when turned in opposite directions. It seems to run fine. It doesn't seem to accelerate as fast or have as much torque, but I might be able to work on that. I'm just trying to make sure that it doesn't come loose! It's hard to tell, but I think it's staying the same. When I step on both tires (engine running) and gas it, the spur gear doesn't spin around - so that's a good sign... right? And when I hold the spur gear and turn one wheel, the other wheel does turn the opposite direction. Anything else I can check to ensure I've got the screw tight enough/not too tight?
04-16-2006, 03:43 PM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Nice. Glad you found something...
You might have damaged the spring, but time will tell.
With your engine off, no brakes on you can spin one of the tires and the other one shoud spin the same direction. Then if you hold the spur gear or apply the brakes, the tires should spin in oppisite directions.
To test your diff you can try this.....It's hard to describe it over the net, but I will try.
What you need to do is hold both tires firmly to the ground and be able to lift the front of your truck and hold the spur gear. You watch the spur gear to see if it slips while the front end lowers to the ground. Tighten the spur/slipper gear till it stops slipping at the slipper. If it's no longer slipping at the slipper but is still lowering to the ground, your diff is too loose. Tighten the diff accourding to the manual. If it's fully tight but still slipping, then you might need to replace that spring. A loose diff is the worst! That's why there is a slipper.
If your diff is holding and the slipper is holding, then back off the slipper till is lowers to the ground. Now you don't want to have it drop fast, but at a slow fall but still be able to slip. When set, it should still accellerate no problem! You can leave it tight to do wheelies, but you run the risk of damaging the diff or drive pins.
You might have damaged the spring, but time will tell. With your engine off, no brakes on you can spin one of the tires and the other one shoud spin the same direction. Then if you hold the spur gear or apply the brakes, the tires should spin in oppisite directions.
To test your diff you can try this.....It's hard to describe it over the net, but I will try.
What you need to do is hold both tires firmly to the ground and be able to lift the front of your truck and hold the spur gear. You watch the spur gear to see if it slips while the front end lowers to the ground. Tighten the spur/slipper gear till it stops slipping at the slipper. If it's no longer slipping at the slipper but is still lowering to the ground, your diff is too loose. Tighten the diff accourding to the manual. If it's fully tight but still slipping, then you might need to replace that spring. A loose diff is the worst! That's why there is a slipper.
If your diff is holding and the slipper is holding, then back off the slipper till is lowers to the ground. Now you don't want to have it drop fast, but at a slow fall but still be able to slip. When set, it should still accellerate no problem! You can leave it tight to do wheelies, but you run the risk of damaging the diff or drive pins.
04-16-2006, 07:06 PM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
ORIGINAL: J_Bone
Nice. Glad you found something... You might have damaged the spring, but time will tell.
With your engine off, no brakes on you can spin one of the tires and the other one shoud spin the same direction. Then if you hold the spur gear or apply the brakes, the tires should spin in oppisite directions.
To test your diff you can try this.....It's hard to describe it over the net, but I will try.
What you need to do is hold both tires firmly to the ground and be able to lift the front of your truck and hold the spur gear. You watch the spur gear to see if it slips while the front end lowers to the ground. Tighten the spur/slipper gear till it stops slipping at the slipper. If it's no longer slipping at the slipper but is still lowering to the ground, your diff is too loose. Tighten the diff accourding to the manual. If it's fully tight but still slipping, then you might need to replace that spring. A loose diff is the worst! That's why there is a slipper.
If your diff is holding and the slipper is holding, then back off the slipper till is lowers to the ground. Now you don't want to have it drop fast, but at a slow fall but still be able to slip. When set, it should still accellerate no problem! You can leave it tight to do wheelies, but you run the risk of damaging the diff or drive pins.
Nice. Glad you found something...
You might have damaged the spring, but time will tell. With your engine off, no brakes on you can spin one of the tires and the other one shoud spin the same direction. Then if you hold the spur gear or apply the brakes, the tires should spin in oppisite directions.
To test your diff you can try this.....It's hard to describe it over the net, but I will try.
What you need to do is hold both tires firmly to the ground and be able to lift the front of your truck and hold the spur gear. You watch the spur gear to see if it slips while the front end lowers to the ground. Tighten the spur/slipper gear till it stops slipping at the slipper. If it's no longer slipping at the slipper but is still lowering to the ground, your diff is too loose. Tighten the diff accourding to the manual. If it's fully tight but still slipping, then you might need to replace that spring. A loose diff is the worst! That's why there is a slipper.
If your diff is holding and the slipper is holding, then back off the slipper till is lowers to the ground. Now you don't want to have it drop fast, but at a slow fall but still be able to slip. When set, it should still accellerate no problem! You can leave it tight to do wheelies, but you run the risk of damaging the diff or drive pins.
But I'm going to print that post out right now and put it in the garage for tomorrow or Tuesday.And I threw that spring away. I have 2 or 3 others.
04-16-2006, 09:34 PM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
ORIGINAL: Nitro Flash
pilotwings119, good to hear you got it figured out. [8D]
pilotwings119, good to hear you got it figured out. [8D]
And I did fool with it earlier. I ran about 1/3 tank through it just to test the slipper/diff. The slipper is pretty tight and takes some force to get it to slip, but it does (I'm pretty sure) slip. And I like it where it is - good top speed, acceleration. Assuming nothing loosens itself, I think it'll be perfect how it is
04-19-2006, 03:39 PM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
ORIGINAL: Guildgtar
how do u all take the rear stub axel pin out??
how do u all take the rear stub axel pin out??
04-19-2006, 07:43 PM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
jus about any hobby shop or online shop, i reccomend towerhobbies.com. the rc10gt is probably the easiest ST to upgrade and find parts for
04-20-2006, 04:44 AM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Are the stock tires decent for mainly street driving? Or should i look into slicks?
And for that that run in the dirt what tires do you like for that?
I have sand diggers on it right now (what it came with from the guy i bought it from) and i really have no use for them
Tiny
And for that that run in the dirt what tires do you like for that?
I have sand diggers on it right now (what it came with from the guy i bought it from) and i really have no use for them
Tiny
04-20-2006, 10:49 AM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
If you plan on doing street driving, look at street tires. If it's gonna be a combo of street/gravel/dirt/grass/whatever else I can drive through, then try to find something that has larger, more aggressive tread.
The step pins, and fuzzies, and bowtie Ts work best on a prepared track surface...They work really well for street use too, but only for about 3/4 of a tank of fuel if you are rodding on it...They wear VERY fast on pavement.
I think slicks would be awesome looking!! I'm not convinced they would hook up on a 'normal' street. If you could find a brand new street or parking lot that hasn't had any dust or debris on it, it would be like it was on rails!! Otherwise it would be like taking a my Trans AM out on a frozen lake and trying to do a slalom course.[&:].....Which was a lot of fun by the way...but that car is soooooo light and the tires are soooo wide, that I could literally get stuck on smooth flat ice. My Thunderbird with snow tires all around is a way much more funner runner in the winter.
The step pins, and fuzzies, and bowtie Ts work best on a prepared track surface...They work really well for street use too, but only for about 3/4 of a tank of fuel if you are rodding on it...They wear VERY fast on pavement.
I think slicks would be awesome looking!! I'm not convinced they would hook up on a 'normal' street. If you could find a brand new street or parking lot that hasn't had any dust or debris on it, it would be like it was on rails!! Otherwise it would be like taking a my Trans AM out on a frozen lake and trying to do a slalom course.[&:].....Which was a lot of fun by the way...but that car is soooooo light and the tires are soooo wide, that I could literally get stuck on smooth flat ice. My Thunderbird with snow tires all around is a way much more funner runner in the winter.
04-20-2006, 01:48 PM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Street tires on an RC/10 is fine as long as your set up is right otherwise all you'll do is spin out. I heve street tires on one of my '10's and you'll want the softest springs all around that you can find to keep it hooked up its pretty fun cause it winds up being more like a drifting car than a truck. either way you go have fun
04-20-2006, 03:23 PM
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Just noticed this section, and thought I'd throw up a pic of my truck. The picture below is actually a little old now. It's from when I still had the New Era Models chassis on it (I've since gone to the anodized factry team chassis). It barely has any remaining factory pieces left on it now. The Picco .15 engine in it now is the third to occupy that spot as well. With all the aftermarket stuff on it (everything form GPM, to Robinson Racing, to Hammad Ghuman, to Factory team stuff), I'm still running the original 8 year old MIP CVD's. Sometimes I think the only thing holding them together still, are the CVD boots I put on....something to be said for quality I guess. Anyway, there's really to much to list as far as aftermarket stuff, so I'll just post the pic. I'll try and get an updated one when I get back home (away for school, and couldn't bring it).
