Dsnow

Thanks guys, the bad news is my wing panels are 3 grams different - going to need more stickers on one side.

Dave

wildwillie3

Fantastic work Dave, you inspire us all. Congrats Mike for the new plane I can't wait to see it next season.

Hey Dave can you move closer to St.Clairsville OH. sometime soon? LOL

Bill

kenh3497

2 grams difference in weight!!! Well.... Those wings are JUNK. I'll gladly take them off you hands so they don't defile your work shop. The guy that built them wings should have his hands slapped. 2 grams... Why a 5 year old could do better that that!



OK, I'm jealous

Most excellent build. As I said before I've gleaned quite a bit of info from this thread and answered many questions to ease my upcoming build. THANK YOU for taking the time to document this build for us[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

Jetstream

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks Dave for taking the time to share your build. It was most interesting to me!

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

I've been following this with a lot of interest. Looks real good. I did something similar last year and am getting some good ideas in here for v2.0.

Bob Hartwig

Dave, Excellent pictures, posts, and build. Thanks for taking the extra time to share it all.

Mike and Todd, The fuse looks really nice. I like the simple color scheme with just a touch of green. (JK)

Bob

mups53

My Feedback: (41)

Dave finished attatching the new wing and stab to the Mystic fuse for me. Hedelivered it last week. Now the rest is up to me. I have sometime to complete itbecause we don't start flying until mid april.
The wing is patterned a bit after a wing Dave and I had on an Impact a few years back. That wing was a Dave creation that used a sweep that he liked from a Phenom. We both thought that plane was very solid and presented well in the air. The airfoil for this wing ispretty thin and came after some thought and modificationsof the new Spark Evo. The stab is anhedral and ispatterned after the Spark Dynamic with no step. We prefer the thicker airfoil stab to add some stability.
So all in all it's all a bit experimental but looks really good so far and we'll hope for the best. My goal is not have to add too many Doo Dad's to get it to fly right.
Mike Mueller

Dsnow

I’ve mentioned paper sockets before and here are some pictures of a paper socket being made for the next wing I'm starting. I use a coated paper but any paper should be ok. The mfg socket in the last picture is the same length as the paper sockets but for a 7/8" dia tube, the paper socket being made is for 25mm wing tube.

Dave

MTK

Mike,

Nothing wrong with experimentation....That's how we can advance the art. Good luck with your first prototype

MarkGrabowski

You don't see a 110 sized Addiction every day of the week, please consider doing a build thread with plenty of photos!

flyva

Hello Dave Snow:

I'm interested in constructing wing and stab jigs such as yours. Would you mind detailing the steps you took to get the parts ready for cutting.

I would think you would do a "top view" of all parts in CAD. Using the CAD length measurements for the ribs, you would then use something like Profili to generate airfoil "elevations" for each rib.

Do you then import airfoil "elevations" to CAD to detail all rib cuts? How do you determine rib cuts when the ribs are not perpendicular to the main spar? How do you determine the diagonal bracing in the aileron?

Being symmetrical wings, is it correct that you use the same top and bottom jig for both panels? I could see where two sets of jigs would be necessary. One top and bottom for rib and spar layup and a second top and bottom resized to allow for wing sheeting thickness. How many jigs do you use?

Thanks for sharing your experience.

rgreen24

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Dave, when you have some time can you post the best techniques for scribing the wing to the fuz

thanks

Dsnow

Hi Robert, here are three pictures showing the scribing technique on a stab. Take your time sanding to the tape otherwise the wood could tear, some of the guys have been using thin CA on the inside face prior to sanding to help prevent this.

Dave Snow

Dsnow

I’m not sure of the best way to describe what I typically do and I’m sure you will have many questions after I outline the steps briefly here so it may be better to pm me and we can exchange emails unless you think the question will be of general interest to others.

β€’ I draw everything in AutoCAD 2002 and it’s all in 2D.
β€’ 1st draw the wing plan, only one side is needed to start with, place all ribs and spars with proper thicknesses shown
β€’ Generate rib for wing, I trace a known wings root and then draw it with the CAD program
β€’ Draw a thickness profile of the wing at the high point of the wing, offset for wing sheeting, now you have how thick each rib is
β€’ Draw each rib using the plan for the length of rib and the thickness profile for the height of each rib
β€’ Align ribs on the side of the plan and draw construction lines at locations where each spar cuts thru a rib, usually this will be on the top and bottom of each rib
β€’ Draw lightning holes in each rib
β€’ For spars I take a line parallel to the spar, draw lines from the end of the spar perpendicular to the new line, copy the perpendicular line to each location where the rib crosses the spar, use each rib to generate the thickness of the spar where the two cross

At this point the spars and ribs should be done, to do the special locations similar techniques are used of drawing lines parallel to the parts plan line and perpendicular to get length and then measuring the ribs or spars at each end of the part to get the thickness.

Ok half way there now, the parts for the wing should be done now onto the jig.

The jigs that I have been doing are symmetrical so only one set is required, the center line of the wing is parallel to the table. Also with 3/32” sheeting and the gentle slope of the airfoil only one set of jigs are required.

β€’ I lay out the jig ribs / spars and spacer spars on a wing plan, just copy the wing plan and modify it for the jig
β€’ All jig ribs under the major wing ribs, jig spars under main wing spars – I do this to help prevent the potential of the wing sheeting bulging when using Poly-U glue to sheet – place spacer spars at the LE & TE and then some within the plan itself – these will help maintain the spacing of the jig ribs
β€’ I start at the root rib and see/guess how much material is needed at the high point to provide enough strength to the jig, typically if you offset the rib center line 1.75” there will be enough material
β€’ Offset the center line at each rib the same amount, draw notches for all spars crossing each jig rib
β€’ Draw spacer spars same way as wing spars

Now the two plans are done and all the parts for the wing and jig. At this point you will need to talk to your laser cutter and see how he wants it arranged on the wood. The cutter I use wants a 1/8” no cut
zone around the wood sheet and have tabs – uncut lines – so the parts stay in the sheet after cutting. I then arrange all the parts on the correct thickness wood with as little space between parts to save on material cost.

Hope that briefly explains what I have been doing and I’m sure there are much better ways to get the info generated and I hope others let us know how they do it.

Dave Snow

flyva

Thanks Dave...just thought I'd ask to see if there was something "trick" before I started. I'll PM if I have any questions.

rgreen24

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks Dave, I am guessing you have an equal distance from the fuz, when doing scribbling the top and bottom correct?

Dsnow

Yes equal distance, I measure the leading edge to make sure the two panels are the same.

No tricks in the CAD drawing just time.

Dave