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YS DZ200cdi

Old 08-13-2022, 11:40 AM
  #351  
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It's getting too hot.
Old 08-13-2022, 12:27 PM
  #352  
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Originally Posted by FBW
Just wondering if any of you lubricate the O rings on the YS engines when assembling...........
Not usually.
Old 08-13-2022, 06:11 PM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by naftali
Another old issue and very bothering: Even when the muffler original YS O ring slides nicely on the header at the start of the flight, after 8 minutes or so, the O ring is stuck to the header, as if it is glued to it. I tried freeing the O ring every flight, lubricating with vaseline, anti seize, polishing the header - all to no avail.
After about 8 flights the O ring starts creeping out as can be seen, loosing seal and leaking exhaust gas.
The engine performs nicely otherwise, oil is 10% Morgan Low Smoke.
Any cure?
Mine does the same.........I think the O rings aren't up to spec !!!!!
The old O rings didn't do this.
Old 08-20-2022, 10:07 PM
  #354  
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Originally Posted by drac1
It's getting too hot.
I tried enriching the mixture, Viton O rings - all to no avail, it still sticks after one flight.
The spinner is cold upon landing, even in hot summer days.
A friend of mine is still using the old O ring - and no problem, so maybe the new ones are made from a different material.
Anyhow I ordered rubber and silicon 14x4 O rings and hope for the best.
Old 08-20-2022, 10:27 PM
  #355  
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Originally Posted by naftali
I tried enriching the mixture, Viton O rings - all to no avail, it still sticks after one flight.
The spinner is cold upon landing, even in hot summer days.
A friend of mine is still using the old O ring - and no problem, so maybe the new ones are made from a different material.
Anyhow I ordered rubber and silicon 14x4 O rings and hope for the best.
I'm using the new YS O rings. I do think they are probably not quite as good as the Hatori ones, but I don't have problems with them sticking to the header unless they get too hot. This generally only happens if it is too lean.

The YS O rings seem to be a slightly different size. They fit tighter on the header.

I doubt normal rubber and Silicon will last very long in that environment. Let us know how it goes.

Last edited by drac1; 08-20-2022 at 10:29 PM.
Old 08-21-2022, 12:08 AM
  #356  
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Originally Posted by drac1
I'm using the new YS O rings. I do think they are probably not quite as good as the Hatori ones, but I don't have problems with them sticking to the header unless they get too hot. This generally only happens if it is too lean.

The YS O rings seem to be a slightly different size. They fit tighter on the header.

I doubt normal rubber and Silicon will last very long in that environment. Let us know how it goes.
I have tried both Rubber and Silicon........the original Hatori are the best.
I am now using MOLYCOTE 3451 bearing grease to coat all O rings on the YS and so far so good.Time will tell.
Old 08-21-2022, 12:39 AM
  #357  
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Originally Posted by FBW
I have tried both Rubber and Silicon........the original Hatori are the best.
I am now using MOLYCOTE 3451 bearing grease to coat all O rings on the YS and so far so good.Time will tell.
It's a shame Hatori closed down, there stuff was extremely good. I have a couple Hatori O rings left, but I've been using the YS ones for a while now.

I'll have to the Molykote a go.
Old 08-21-2022, 12:57 AM
  #358  
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The one on the left is Hatori and the one on the right is YS. You can see the difference.

Hatori is 3.6mm section
YS is 4mm section

The Hatori is a loose fit on the header, around 1mm clearance. The muffler pushes onto the header quite easily.

The YS is a neat push fit onto the header, which explains why it is much harder to get the muffler on. Maybe it's a bit too tight? Being that tight, it wouldn't move on the header as much while flying and wouldn't get any oil under for lubrication as the Hatori does. Maybe not moving is causing it to stick?

Possibly the Molykote grease will let it move on the header and prevent it from sticking?

Old 10-17-2022, 11:36 AM
  #359  
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I ordered neoprene(NBR) and silicon O rings from ALIEXPRESS, 22x14 mm. SkyCable Store. First I tried the silicon, supposed to withstand 200 deg. C. It did not stick, but Wear and Tear were excessive after one flight only. As a last resort and nothing to lose feeling I installed the NBR, rated to 100 deg. C only. The best. Not sticking, not leaking for 30 flights, some droplets after 35. Pack of 10 units for 93 cents, postage one dollar more.
Old 10-17-2022, 01:01 PM
  #360  
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Have you guys tried the Viton O rings?

I changed the Hattori often but the YS not so often nor the Viton ones.
Old 10-17-2022, 08:09 PM
  #361  
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Originally Posted by FBW
I have tried both Rubber and Silicon........the original Hatori are the best.
I am now using MOLYCOTE 3451 bearing grease to coat all O rings on the YS and so far so good.Time will tell.
After 40 flights with Molycote no Oil leak .......
Old 10-24-2023, 12:13 PM
  #362  
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Hi all, hope all is well! It has been very quiet on this YS thread lately, hopefully everyone is enjoying and flying! It has been a big learning curve on the cdi thing for me and slowly learning it, I took almost a 20 year break of flying and the last YS I flew in F3A was a 140 dingo in 2004, this 200s is a real beast of an engine and the power is something else, a completely new beast and nothing compared to the old 140 engines!

Something strange happened to me, had the engine on the stand and everything was good, engine had super compression and I was satisfied with how it was running so decided to put it on the plane, when unbolting the prop I heard a loud clicking sound and immediately compression was lost! I figured something broke in the engine and really was expecting the worse! I took off the prop and opened the valve cover to only see that the intake valve was stuck! I dropped some Klotz oil(KL200) and spun the prop and left it and came back and that was it! Compression came back and everything normal again but I noticed that the pushrod (pics) was kinda off of the screw as you can see in the pictures.

Is this a sign of a bend rod? Havenít run the engine yet as Iím worried that It could be bend! The engine spins normal with super compression.

Greg









Last edited by Pattern freak; 10-24-2023 at 01:28 PM.
Old 10-24-2023, 12:52 PM
  #363  
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Originally Posted by Pattern freak
Hi all, hope all is well! It has been very quiet on this YS thread lately, hopefully everyone is enjoying and flying! It has been a big learning curve on the cdi thing for me and slowly learning it, I took almost a 20 year break of flying and the last YS I flew in F3A was a 140 dingo in 2004, this 200s is a real beast of an engine and the power is something else, a completely new beast and nothing compared to the old 140 engines!

Something strange happened to me, had the engine on the stand and everything was good, engine had super compression and I was satisfied with how it was running so decided to put it on the plane, when unlocking the last prop bolt I heard a loud clicking sound and immediately compression was lost! I figured something broke in the engine and really was expecting the worse! I took off the prop and opened the valve cover to only see that the intake valve was stuck! I dropped some Klotz oil(KL200) and spun the prop and left it and came back and that was it! Compression came back and everything normal again but I noticed that the pushrod (pics) was kinda off of the screw as you can see in the pictures.

Is this a sign of a bend rod? Havenít run the engine yet as Iím worried that It could be bend! The engine spins normal with super compression.

Greg








thatís not a problem, it happened during reasembly , just press the valve and get the rod in the correct place.
Old 10-24-2023, 02:15 PM
  #364  
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Hi Alejandro thanks for the reply but Itís not the exhaust pushrod itís the intake (regulator) small rod that is off! Itís not inline with the intake tappet screw as you can see itís off to the left and forward of the screw or is it normal?
Old 10-24-2023, 02:28 PM
  #365  
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I am looking at it ln my phone sorry, I see what you mean, I am on a business trip so I canít look at mine now, does the rocker has too much side play? But thatís the way the rod goes in the intake valve, it has a guide (the black plastic plug) so it doesnít move out of place. You could loosen the rocker shaft and move it a bit towards the exhaust valve to better center the intake rocker over the pushrod, it think that can be done.

Last edited by apereira; 10-24-2023 at 02:39 PM.
Old 10-24-2023, 04:31 PM
  #366  
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No worries! Thereís absolutely no play on the rocker shaft so I can not move the arm over the screw! I just see it strange as I recall not seeing the rod so off of the tappet screw! As you stated the rod goes in the plastic hub so it doesnít move out of position, just want to know if itís normal. Havenít run the engine yet, the engine spins normal with tons of compression. I will open the valve cover of my 91AC and take a look at it to compare.
Old 10-24-2023, 06:17 PM
  #367  
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Originally Posted by Pattern freak
No worries! Thereís absolutely no play on the rocker shaft so I can not move the arm over the screw! I just see it strange as I recall not seeing the rod so off of the tappet screw! As you stated the rod goes in the plastic hub so it doesnít move out of position, just want to know if itís normal. Havenít run the engine yet, the engine spins normal with tons of compression. I will open the valve cover of my 91AC and take a look at it to compare.
I think this is normal for the push rod to be offset ......mine is the same.
As for the stuck valve this happens from time to time.I had one recently in flight where the engine lost power but kept running and I managed to land safely.
I have new lifters on order from YS. I think the lifters are the issue of the valve getting stuck.
Old 10-25-2023, 10:15 AM
  #368  
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Originally Posted by FBW
I think this is normal for the push rod to be offset ......mine is the same.
As for the stuck valve this happens from time to time.I had one recently in flight where the engine lost power but kept running and I managed to land safely.
I have new lifters on order from YS. I think the lifters are the issue of the valve getting stuck.
itís good to know, thanks for the feedback! so looks like this is normal for it to be offset from the tappet screw! Itís kinda odd as I never put attention and didnít notice that it was so off, itís kinda scary but it canít move out of position as the plastic guide wonít let it! Will definitely keep an eye on the lifters! I will start the engine this weekend and see how it goes!

Last edited by Pattern freak; 10-25-2023 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 11-20-2023, 07:29 PM
  #369  
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Well, that little storage experiment ended in a stinking mess of putrid oil residue and corrosion.
I knew I wasn't going to be using this engine for a while, so I ran 1/4 tank of 0% nitro, 10% coolpower purple and 10% maxima castor 927 on the bench before putting it away in my spare room. A little over two years later and woweeee, I've almost enough iron oxide in there to kick off a thermite burn. Oddly enough, an old bearing I put in an aerosol lid and 1/2 submerged with same fuel mix and put on the shelf in my shed at the same time is in the same condition I left it. The methanol evaporated out and the oil left behind has turned to black sludge, but the bearing is fine.

I've cleaned up most of the parts now and have them in a little bag with some light machine oil, but I'm seriously considering if I should reassemble this engine and put it away, or box it up as jigsaw puzzle with the required new parts so that if I ever want to use it again, I can just reassemble it and go flying?

As an aside, I bought a heli a while back with OS105HZ-R which came with a few litres of old fuel containing Klotz KL198 oil (I'd never used Klotz oil before). I'm about 130 litres into a back-to-back oil test after running 80 litres of my usual coolpower brew through it (2 rear bearings), I'm now at about 50 litres (rear bearing still feels good) of the KL198 brew and I like the KL198. For reference, in the heli 40 litres is about 11 hours run time at 16k rpm.


Not a good start.

As expected.

lots of rust.

Even more rust, badly pitted

Cleaned up with new valve springs.

Last edited by bjr_93tz; 11-20-2023 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 12-02-2023, 12:54 PM
  #370  
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First step in the storage procedure is running the engine dry.
Then lubricate all moving parts with YS After Run oil.
Turn the engine over several times to insure protection.

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