Proteus Bipe 2M need help with setting up flight modes
#1
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (1)
I am setting up a Proteus Bipe 2 meter pattern plane to compete with
I have set up the motor / esc / and the connections
Jeti DC24 transmitter
Jeti CB 220
ditex servos with telemetry, mini
Plettenberg Advance 30/10
D3 Motors F3A ESC - Governor
Jeti MUI150 EX
When setting up the transmitter, there is a lock switch to engage the motor on.
I also noted, that in device explorer, general setting, the output period was set to AUTO, and the motor, on plug into the the 10s system, only made 3 beeps and was missing the other 2 beeps.
SO when I changed the output period to the max, i think 30MS, then it made the 2 other beeps and the motor was then able to turn.
Now, I am at the stage that I would like to program flight modes.
On the Jeti DC 24 transmitter, i had Esprit install stick end switches. I am very comfortable using these, and have been for many years, as I am a pincher.
The left stick, the throttle side, i use a 2 position switch that on my IMAC airplanes is set up for low idle and high idle.
and on the elevator stick, there is a 3 position stick for:
1. IMAC precision rate, low elevator, ailerons are tame, rudder set up to hold knife edge
2. roller rate= ailerons are brought down to 8% of dual rates
3. hammer head = max rudder deflection
Being that this pattern airplane is an electrifried, what do most guys do for the flight modes?
sincerely
Cam
I have set up the motor / esc / and the connections
Jeti DC24 transmitter
Jeti CB 220
ditex servos with telemetry, mini
Plettenberg Advance 30/10
D3 Motors F3A ESC - Governor
Jeti MUI150 EX
When setting up the transmitter, there is a lock switch to engage the motor on.
I also noted, that in device explorer, general setting, the output period was set to AUTO, and the motor, on plug into the the 10s system, only made 3 beeps and was missing the other 2 beeps.
SO when I changed the output period to the max, i think 30MS, then it made the 2 other beeps and the motor was then able to turn.
Now, I am at the stage that I would like to program flight modes.
On the Jeti DC 24 transmitter, i had Esprit install stick end switches. I am very comfortable using these, and have been for many years, as I am a pincher.
The left stick, the throttle side, i use a 2 position switch that on my IMAC airplanes is set up for low idle and high idle.
and on the elevator stick, there is a 3 position stick for:
1. IMAC precision rate, low elevator, ailerons are tame, rudder set up to hold knife edge
2. roller rate= ailerons are brought down to 8% of dual rates
3. hammer head = max rudder deflection
Being that this pattern airplane is an electrifried, what do most guys do for the flight modes?
sincerely
Cam
#2

My Feedback: (29)
Cam, I think there will be a range of options here. What I describe here is what I personally do and it works for me. I don't use any sort of idle up. When I pull the throttle stick all the way back, the ESC is in brake mode. I use the Futaba ESC so my brake is set to 60%. Every ESC is going to be different on the brake settings. Having the stick just forward a little is brake off. I fly with 3 flight modes. Normal which is minimum throws required to get through most of the sequence on everything. Landing mode which retains the aileron rate but bumps up the elevator and rudder throws. I use this mode for spins and stall turns as well. Then snap mode which keeps the same elevator and rudder as normal mode but increases aileron throw.
What I feel I am missing with this is an increased throw on rudder for just stall turns. Prior to pulling vertical for stall turns I switch to my " landing mode " so I need to be very careful on the radius and my rudder is for practical purposes overly sensitive on the up line but not really enough to pivot the airplane on its CG either. A stick position rate switch or like your Jeti a stick push button would be a big advantage here. Hopefully other guys will chime in and we both may learn a thing or two here.
What I feel I am missing with this is an increased throw on rudder for just stall turns. Prior to pulling vertical for stall turns I switch to my " landing mode " so I need to be very careful on the radius and my rudder is for practical purposes overly sensitive on the up line but not really enough to pivot the airplane on its CG either. A stick position rate switch or like your Jeti a stick push button would be a big advantage here. Hopefully other guys will chime in and we both may learn a thing or two here.
Last edited by speedracerntrixie; 01-23-2021 at 04:59 PM.
The following users liked this post:
orthobird (01-24-2021)
#4

Othobird,
I notice you have a D3 ESC - the settings and operation of this are very different from a traditional ESC that speedracerntrixie commented on. I would advise you to get set-up info from other D3 users, perhaps post the question on the Electric Pattern Forum as well.
The set-up and operation of the D3 is strongly linked to Flight modes.
I currently don't use the D3 but do intend to in the future
Steve
I notice you have a D3 ESC - the settings and operation of this are very different from a traditional ESC that speedracerntrixie commented on. I would advise you to get set-up info from other D3 users, perhaps post the question on the Electric Pattern Forum as well.
The set-up and operation of the D3 is strongly linked to Flight modes.
I currently don't use the D3 but do intend to in the future
Steve
The following users liked this post:
orthobird (01-24-2021)
#6
Under other model options you can select a switch that will disable the motor. Nice little safety feature that I use on all of my EP models.
I run three flight modes, normal flight, spin and a high rate rudder for stalls. I also use logic switches on stick positions to activate snaps.
Also, the CB 200 is kinda overkill for an f3a model. I would save that for a gas model and just use an R9 with a couple of 500mAh batteries.
I run three flight modes, normal flight, spin and a high rate rudder for stalls. I also use logic switches on stick positions to activate snaps.
Also, the CB 200 is kinda overkill for an f3a model. I would save that for a gas model and just use an R9 with a couple of 500mAh batteries.
#7

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Cam, I think there will be a range of options here. What I describe here is what I personally do and it works for me. I don't use any sort of idle up. When I pull the throttle stick all the way back, the ESC is in brake mode. I use the Futaba ESC so my brake is set to 60%. Every ESC is going to be different on the brake settings. Having the stick just forward a little is brake off. I fly with 3 flight modes. Normal which is minimum throws required to get through most of the sequence on everything. Landing mode which retains the aileron rate but bumps up the elevator and rudder throws. I use this mode for spins and stall turns as well. Then snap mode which keeps the same elevator and rudder as normal mode but increases aileron throw.
What I feel I am missing with this is an increased throw on rudder for just stall turns. Prior to pulling vertical for stall turns I switch to my " landing mode " so I need to be very careful on the radius and my rudder is for practical purposes overly sensitive on the up line but not really enough to pivot the airplane on its CG either. A stick position rate switch or like your Jeti a stick push button would be a big advantage here. Hopefully other guys will chime in and we both may learn a thing or two here.
What I feel I am missing with this is an increased throw on rudder for just stall turns. Prior to pulling vertical for stall turns I switch to my " landing mode " so I need to be very careful on the radius and my rudder is for practical purposes overly sensitive on the up line but not really enough to pivot the airplane on its CG either. A stick position rate switch or like your Jeti a stick push button would be a big advantage here. Hopefully other guys will chime in and we both may learn a thing or two here.




