Excelleron 90
#676
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From: Guatemala City, GUATEMALA
Has anybody flown the Excelleron 90 with either a YS 1.40 or Ys 1.20?
Can somebody tell me if it's worth to purchase an aftermarket YS 1.20 or shal i go for sure in the YS 1.10?
Thanks
Carlos
Can somebody tell me if it's worth to purchase an aftermarket YS 1.20 or shal i go for sure in the YS 1.10?
Thanks
Carlos
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From: Jacksonville,
FL
Everybody I've read about using the YS 120 has said it's overkill on power. Everybody who flies it on the 110 says it's just perfect. A YS 140 would just be nuts.
I guess if you plan on 3Ding it instead of pattern flying it, go with the 120. Otherwise, the 110 is the ticket.
Rick
I guess if you plan on 3Ding it instead of pattern flying it, go with the 120. Otherwise, the 110 is the ticket.
Rick
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From: Guatemala City, GUATEMALA
I think everybody has talked about the YS 110, but i wonder if you all guys live in the U.S. I live in Guatemala and our citie's height is around 4,000 ft above sea level. Will this engine perform as well on this height? Or shall i go for the 120?
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From: St. Louis, MO
Ballbearingman (or anyone with solution)
This may be the second posting. Got error message with first.
Just started putting my Excelleron together. First pattern plane. Ran into similar problem as Ballbearingman. Laid the wing in the saddle of the Excelleron and measured fuse tail to wing tip. There is a 3/8' difference. However, wing IS square to fuse and square in saddle. i.e. Wing C/L lines up with fuse C/L and angle between fuse and wing at leading edge is same. Fuse seems to be straight. I stretched a string down the C/L and it split the fuse in half.
When I cock the wing (By the way the wing looks real good. The epoxy line had no gap and a flush fit.) to make fuse tail to wing tip demension the same - wing is no longer square in saddle and the angles from either side of fuse to wing leading edges differ by about 6 degrees. My conclusion is that there is something off with the wing and I don't know what it is and probably couldn't fix it if I did know. My fix for this problem would be no fix. Seems to me a wing square to the fuse trumps the wing tip to fuse distance being equal. I suppose I could try to get Hobby People to send another wing or fuse, but I am not sure what the problem is. Comments please.
John
This may be the second posting. Got error message with first.
Just started putting my Excelleron together. First pattern plane. Ran into similar problem as Ballbearingman. Laid the wing in the saddle of the Excelleron and measured fuse tail to wing tip. There is a 3/8' difference. However, wing IS square to fuse and square in saddle. i.e. Wing C/L lines up with fuse C/L and angle between fuse and wing at leading edge is same. Fuse seems to be straight. I stretched a string down the C/L and it split the fuse in half.
When I cock the wing (By the way the wing looks real good. The epoxy line had no gap and a flush fit.) to make fuse tail to wing tip demension the same - wing is no longer square in saddle and the angles from either side of fuse to wing leading edges differ by about 6 degrees. My conclusion is that there is something off with the wing and I don't know what it is and probably couldn't fix it if I did know. My fix for this problem would be no fix. Seems to me a wing square to the fuse trumps the wing tip to fuse distance being equal. I suppose I could try to get Hobby People to send another wing or fuse, but I am not sure what the problem is. Comments please.
John
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From: El Paso,
TX
cporres,
I also live in a city at 4,000ft asl and I am using a Saito 100 in my Excelleron.
The saito 100 is marginal for an Intermediate pattern at this altitude, I've tried it at a contest at 4,500ft and it definitely lacked power, but then the Saito is a lot less powerful than a YS110, so I would think that a YS110 would be perfect at 4,000ft, unless you intend to do 3D.
I've also heard a YS110 is more powerful than a YS120, although I haven't tested this myself.
Gabriel
I also live in a city at 4,000ft asl and I am using a Saito 100 in my Excelleron.
The saito 100 is marginal for an Intermediate pattern at this altitude, I've tried it at a contest at 4,500ft and it definitely lacked power, but then the Saito is a lot less powerful than a YS110, so I would think that a YS110 would be perfect at 4,000ft, unless you intend to do 3D.
I've also heard a YS110 is more powerful than a YS120, although I haven't tested this myself.
Gabriel
#681
Question re YS 110FZ.
What's the best way to handle access to the regulator screw? When mounting this engine inverted, this would mean drilling an access hole up through the fuse top at the nose.
I presume making this adjustment accessible is mandatory. I'm thinking of carving a little space in the engine compartment directly above the regulator screw so it can be screwed out just above flush, and drilling only a small flatblade screwdriver access hole through to the fuse top.
How has anyone handled this?
Thanks in advance for the help.
What's the best way to handle access to the regulator screw? When mounting this engine inverted, this would mean drilling an access hole up through the fuse top at the nose.
I presume making this adjustment accessible is mandatory. I'm thinking of carving a little space in the engine compartment directly above the regulator screw so it can be screwed out just above flush, and drilling only a small flatblade screwdriver access hole through to the fuse top.
How has anyone handled this?
Thanks in advance for the help.
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From: DeQuincy,
LA
I've finally reserved myself to the fact that you need access holes in certain places.
Go ahead and cut a hole . You won't regret it.
Make it almost the size if the regulator screw and then you can see it clearly to confirm if it's flush or not.
Eddie
Go ahead and cut a hole . You won't regret it.
Make it almost the size if the regulator screw and then you can see it clearly to confirm if it's flush or not.
Eddie
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From: El Paso,
TX
Do the hole. You may never need it, but if you don't you will need it for sure and it's not worth the trouble or anger.
I've been thru this a few times in the past, but now I know better.
I just make them as small as practically possible.
I've been thru this a few times in the past, but now I know better.
I just make them as small as practically possible.
#686
I'm building an Exceleron 50 and at first I thought I had the same problem, but it seems you have done the same in putting a string on the fuse, and still seem off.
Try this if you haven't, attach the string to the tail dead center, using calipers determin the center at the nose. I measured the width of the fuse and then split that and marked the fuse, brought the sting up and over that mark and taped it on, Then I measured from the string back to the tip of the aileron poket. When I did that I got equal measurements on both sides.
Also make sure you have the wing bolted down in place. before checking it.
Make sure you measure to the outer corner of the aileron poket, I also found the covering was off center so the string is the only good reference point.
If it's not right contact global and talk to them, it's not worth your trouble to continue building if this is not right.
Try this if you haven't, attach the string to the tail dead center, using calipers determin the center at the nose. I measured the width of the fuse and then split that and marked the fuse, brought the sting up and over that mark and taped it on, Then I measured from the string back to the tip of the aileron poket. When I did that I got equal measurements on both sides.
Also make sure you have the wing bolted down in place. before checking it.
Make sure you measure to the outer corner of the aileron poket, I also found the covering was off center so the string is the only good reference point.
If it's not right contact global and talk to them, it's not worth your trouble to continue building if this is not right.
ORIGINAL: F-4
Ballbearingman (or anyone with solution)
This may be the second posting. Got error message with first.
Just started putting my Excelleron together. First pattern plane. Ran into similar problem as Ballbearingman. Laid the wing in the saddle of the Excelleron and measured fuse tail to wing tip. There is a 3/8' difference. However, wing IS square to fuse and square in saddle. i.e. Wing C/L lines up with fuse C/L and angle between fuse and wing at leading edge is same. Fuse seems to be straight. I stretched a string down the C/L and it split the fuse in half.
When I cock the wing (By the way the wing looks real good. The epoxy line had no gap and a flush fit.) to make fuse tail to wing tip demension the same - wing is no longer square in saddle and the angles from either side of fuse to wing leading edges differ by about 6 degrees. My conclusion is that there is something off with the wing and I don't know what it is and probably couldn't fix it if I did know. My fix for this problem would be no fix. Seems to me a wing square to the fuse trumps the wing tip to fuse distance being equal. I suppose I could try to get Hobby People to send another wing or fuse, but I am not sure what the problem is. Comments please.
John
Ballbearingman (or anyone with solution)
This may be the second posting. Got error message with first.
Just started putting my Excelleron together. First pattern plane. Ran into similar problem as Ballbearingman. Laid the wing in the saddle of the Excelleron and measured fuse tail to wing tip. There is a 3/8' difference. However, wing IS square to fuse and square in saddle. i.e. Wing C/L lines up with fuse C/L and angle between fuse and wing at leading edge is same. Fuse seems to be straight. I stretched a string down the C/L and it split the fuse in half.
When I cock the wing (By the way the wing looks real good. The epoxy line had no gap and a flush fit.) to make fuse tail to wing tip demension the same - wing is no longer square in saddle and the angles from either side of fuse to wing leading edges differ by about 6 degrees. My conclusion is that there is something off with the wing and I don't know what it is and probably couldn't fix it if I did know. My fix for this problem would be no fix. Seems to me a wing square to the fuse trumps the wing tip to fuse distance being equal. I suppose I could try to get Hobby People to send another wing or fuse, but I am not sure what the problem is. Comments please.
John
#687
ORIGINAL: gabrielg74
cporres,
I also live in a city at 4,000ft asl and I am using a Saito 100 in my Excelleron.
The saito 100 is marginal for an Intermediate pattern at this altitude, I've tried it at a contest at 4,500ft and it definitely lacked power, but then the Saito is a lot less powerful than a YS110, so I would think that a YS110 would be perfect at 4,000ft, unless you intend to do 3D.
I've also heard a YS110 is more powerful than a YS120, although I haven't tested this myself.
Gabriel
cporres,
I also live in a city at 4,000ft asl and I am using a Saito 100 in my Excelleron.
The saito 100 is marginal for an Intermediate pattern at this altitude, I've tried it at a contest at 4,500ft and it definitely lacked power, but then the Saito is a lot less powerful than a YS110, so I would think that a YS110 would be perfect at 4,000ft, unless you intend to do 3D.
I've also heard a YS110 is more powerful than a YS120, although I haven't tested this myself.
Gabriel
Allan
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From: DeQuincy,
LA
I flew the JR Exlporer.
It was a good bit more nose heavy than the Excelleron. Don't ask me how since they are basically the same plane.
I had a YS110 with the tank and battery on the CG. With 4 ounces of lead on the tail under the stab it still felt nose heavy and needed more push inverted than I liked.
Tomorrow I can get you the actual CG recomendation from my instructions . All the setup recomendations are differenet than the Excelleron. Especially control throws. Rudder 20mm Elevator and Aileron 10mm
Eddie
It was a good bit more nose heavy than the Excelleron. Don't ask me how since they are basically the same plane.
I had a YS110 with the tank and battery on the CG. With 4 ounces of lead on the tail under the stab it still felt nose heavy and needed more push inverted than I liked.
Tomorrow I can get you the actual CG recomendation from my instructions . All the setup recomendations are differenet than the Excelleron. Especially control throws. Rudder 20mm Elevator and Aileron 10mm
Eddie
#689
When I used the Excelleron 90 throws recommended for initial setup, they were way too much. Luckily on my first flight I had set my dual rates to half of that the amount. Still too much on the aileron so I'm now installing longer aileron horns.
I forgot to say in my original post that I used a fiberglass pushrod instead of pull-pull on the elevator. So it's my guess that anyone planning to use a YS 120 in the Excelleron 90 should be prepared to add weight to the tail
Allan
I forgot to say in my original post that I used a fiberglass pushrod instead of pull-pull on the elevator. So it's my guess that anyone planning to use a YS 120 in the Excelleron 90 should be prepared to add weight to the tail
Allan
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From: DeQuincy,
LA
Well I'm not sure. I've spoken to several people flying the Global Excelleron with a YS110 who say they're having to add nose weight.
How the two could be so diffeferent is puzzling.
I have another JR Explorer and a Global Excelleron and had intended to assemble both to compare them but I've just got a 2M plane and have been setting it up.
I have no idea where Global came up with their recomended throws.
Eddie
How the two could be so diffeferent is puzzling.
I have another JR Explorer and a Global Excelleron and had intended to assemble both to compare them but I've just got a 2M plane and have been setting it up.

I have no idea where Global came up with their recomended throws.
Eddie
#692
Thanks for the info, especially on the CG. On the aileron deflection, the plane made three axial rolls in less than 5 seconds with 1/4" (approx. 6mm) deflection. However, it was a little sluggish in doing snaps with that limited amount of deflection. It is the first plane that I had that I should be able to do an 8-point roll reasonably well. So far, the only complaint I have is about its long, spinging landing gear. Since I'm not going to install a fixed gear in it, maybe the only solution is to buy an Excelleron.
Allan
Allan
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From: DeQuincy,
LA
I used bolly large swept gear attached to the fuse. The icepoint gear would also work.
I cut the balsa plate off just in front of the former the wing plugs into. Ran a rail along the inside of the fuse flush to the bottom and glued and screwed 5/32 ply to the rails to reclose the area and create a gear plate. Drilled it for 1/4-20 nylon bolts and screwed the gear on. Then cut a slot in the chin cowl to go around the gear. I have broken the nylon bolts twice but the fuse held.
I have a 2nd JR Explorer still NIB, If I ever put it together I won't even cut the covereing off the wing for the retracts.
Closing the holes back up was harder to do than installing the fixed gear to the fuse.
Now the Excelleron has some vertical stringers that I didn't think to do but agree it would add stiffness.
Eddie
I cut the balsa plate off just in front of the former the wing plugs into. Ran a rail along the inside of the fuse flush to the bottom and glued and screwed 5/32 ply to the rails to reclose the area and create a gear plate. Drilled it for 1/4-20 nylon bolts and screwed the gear on. Then cut a slot in the chin cowl to go around the gear. I have broken the nylon bolts twice but the fuse held.
I have a 2nd JR Explorer still NIB, If I ever put it together I won't even cut the covereing off the wing for the retracts.
Closing the holes back up was harder to do than installing the fixed gear to the fuse.Now the Excelleron has some vertical stringers that I didn't think to do but agree it would add stiffness.
Eddie
#698
Had the maiden flight of my E-90 today. Boy what a blistering hot day at Prado (Chino Hills, CA 652' above sea level) -- just about 100deg on the tarmac by 10:30AM. I'm running a YS 110FZ, Hitec HS645MGs for Ail & Elevator, Aritronics 94357 (2x faster than the Hitecs) on Rudder, HS625MG for throttle, 1600 mah NIMH. I switched out the stock control horn arms for the 3/4" ones in the Dubro 867 set and used the Dubro Giant scale plastic hinges instead of the metal ones provided with the kit (This was suggested in Dean Pappas great article in Model Aviation last September). I reinforced the LG plate with a couple of small strips 5oz fiberglass. Otherwise everything else was stock and by the book.
Ran the AI and EL at 12 deg and the Rudder at 15 deg. 15x8 APC prop with Cool Power 30% Heli fuel.
Got 2 flights in before the engine started to act up (probably from the heat).
First was with CG just shy of 7" (measured at home) -- way too nose heavy. Then moved the batt pack and receiver back 2" for the second flight -- still too nose heavy. Tracked OK on 45 deg up lines but dove on high bank turns. Didn't have the CG machine with me.
For the next outing, Ive switched locations of the battery and receiver (moved the battery back 4") and will try again. I'll balance it first to make certain I'm within the 7 1/4" limit -- this puts the 6V Nimh battery back right in front of the servo tray and the receiver (Airtronics PCM 8 Ch) right in front of that. I think this will do it. Can't imagine what's up with the folks that say they needed to add nose weight with this configuration.
Needed only a couple of clicks left aileron trim.
The 100FZ has incredible power in this plane. Unfortnuately, I don't have it dialed in yet and it was too freakin hot to really test out. Have about 130 flights on the engine, but just got it back from YS Performance after crash testing.
I'm headed off to CABO for a week's vacation with the family, so I won't get to put it back in the air until Sat 7/22. I'll give everyone a follow-up report then.
Any hints on dialing in a YS 110FZ, please let me know. Low to high transition feels too rich, hard to keep the engine lit at med-low rpm, and I can't get low speed idle under 2200.
I've got the engine mounted parallel to the hardwood rails (the engine is a bit smaller than the width of the rails), but it looks like a whole lot of right thust. I'm just a little concerned its too much. How do you tell if there's too much or not enough right thrust?
Thanks all.
Steve
Ran the AI and EL at 12 deg and the Rudder at 15 deg. 15x8 APC prop with Cool Power 30% Heli fuel.
Got 2 flights in before the engine started to act up (probably from the heat).
First was with CG just shy of 7" (measured at home) -- way too nose heavy. Then moved the batt pack and receiver back 2" for the second flight -- still too nose heavy. Tracked OK on 45 deg up lines but dove on high bank turns. Didn't have the CG machine with me.
For the next outing, Ive switched locations of the battery and receiver (moved the battery back 4") and will try again. I'll balance it first to make certain I'm within the 7 1/4" limit -- this puts the 6V Nimh battery back right in front of the servo tray and the receiver (Airtronics PCM 8 Ch) right in front of that. I think this will do it. Can't imagine what's up with the folks that say they needed to add nose weight with this configuration.
Needed only a couple of clicks left aileron trim.
The 100FZ has incredible power in this plane. Unfortnuately, I don't have it dialed in yet and it was too freakin hot to really test out. Have about 130 flights on the engine, but just got it back from YS Performance after crash testing.
I'm headed off to CABO for a week's vacation with the family, so I won't get to put it back in the air until Sat 7/22. I'll give everyone a follow-up report then.
Any hints on dialing in a YS 110FZ, please let me know. Low to high transition feels too rich, hard to keep the engine lit at med-low rpm, and I can't get low speed idle under 2200.
I've got the engine mounted parallel to the hardwood rails (the engine is a bit smaller than the width of the rails), but it looks like a whole lot of right thust. I'm just a little concerned its too much. How do you tell if there's too much or not enough right thrust?
Thanks all.
Steve
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From: DeQuincy,
LA
Steve
Look at ysperformance's running instructions here : http://www.ysperformance.com/ under the link INSTRUCTIONS
Sounds like your low speed needle is rich. Remember to lean it you screw the needle out (low speed). The high speed needle works normally( screw it in to lean, out to richen).
I used the included soft mount on the rails. They allow for moving the motor to adjust right thrust.
From striaght and level flight pull to vertical. The plane should got straight up. if it moves to one side in the vertical( and be sure you're not starting with a wing low but from level flight) then that will indicate whcih way you need to adjust the thrust.
on CG , I had my battery just in front of the servos ( sounds the same as you). I also had 4 ounces of lead on the tail. i considered mounting the battery inside the fuselage behind the wing but just never did it.
Eddie
Look at ysperformance's running instructions here : http://www.ysperformance.com/ under the link INSTRUCTIONS
Sounds like your low speed needle is rich. Remember to lean it you screw the needle out (low speed). The high speed needle works normally( screw it in to lean, out to richen).
I used the included soft mount on the rails. They allow for moving the motor to adjust right thrust.
From striaght and level flight pull to vertical. The plane should got straight up. if it moves to one side in the vertical( and be sure you're not starting with a wing low but from level flight) then that will indicate whcih way you need to adjust the thrust.
on CG , I had my battery just in front of the servos ( sounds the same as you). I also had 4 ounces of lead on the tail. i considered mounting the battery inside the fuselage behind the wing but just never did it.
Eddie
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From: Silverdale WA
Hi Steve,
I also belong the the PVMAC club and have the exact same set up ....... the YS110 is a perfect engine for that plane however, it takes some time to get the engine tuned in right, (prop is very important) etc etc. There a number of us pattern flyers at PVMAC but we normanlly fly out at our norton field (usually on Sundays) because we have more room to fly our routines. Would love to have you join us if you are consider flying pattern. Some of our pattern flyers are on the way to the nats this week and will be flying in the nats.
I have two excellon 90s. one with an ys110 and one with a ys91. In the riverside contest in june I had a problem with the 110 and crashed it during a landing which damaged the engine. I am sending it back to ys to repair. Please note it was about 106 degrees. I picked up a new OS120AX (see prior posts) because as much as I like the 4 strokes, they are a pain to deal with (thats my opinion) and I know how to deal with two strokes. I am putting it in now and will have it flying in about a week or so.
If you would like to discuss this further, send me an email to Wayne @abbott-tech.com or [email protected]
Wayne Lovett
Covina Ca.
I also belong the the PVMAC club and have the exact same set up ....... the YS110 is a perfect engine for that plane however, it takes some time to get the engine tuned in right, (prop is very important) etc etc. There a number of us pattern flyers at PVMAC but we normanlly fly out at our norton field (usually on Sundays) because we have more room to fly our routines. Would love to have you join us if you are consider flying pattern. Some of our pattern flyers are on the way to the nats this week and will be flying in the nats.
I have two excellon 90s. one with an ys110 and one with a ys91. In the riverside contest in june I had a problem with the 110 and crashed it during a landing which damaged the engine. I am sending it back to ys to repair. Please note it was about 106 degrees. I picked up a new OS120AX (see prior posts) because as much as I like the 4 strokes, they are a pain to deal with (thats my opinion) and I know how to deal with two strokes. I am putting it in now and will have it flying in about a week or so.
If you would like to discuss this further, send me an email to Wayne @abbott-tech.com or [email protected]
Wayne Lovett
Covina Ca.


