Sword 2M pattern plane
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
The only thing I can tell you is the guy I bought it from on Ebay is mkland0124. He has various other planes on now but I didn't see the Sword currently either.
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
you cannot search for the word SWORD. his ads have astericks around them. search in airplanes under 2M or pattern arf.
I did some searching myself and haven't found one on ebay right now.
I will keep an eye out and post link when i see one come available.
I did some searching myself and haven't found one on ebay right now.
I will keep an eye out and post link when i see one come available.
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
I just got my Sword about five days ago. Light, light, light, heavy landing gear, not as light as I would like stabilizers. Some spots are rough as if it were built as a prototype, but overall I'm looking forward to this being a very good sport model, but hopefully a really good practice pattern model.
My wings appear pretty straight; the right panel is the better of the two although both have ailerons that are a tad bowed (a lot like my Focus was at first but trimmed out very solid). I thought the stabilizer halves were a little on the heavy side, I assume this is because of the tube sockets and support material. The wing saddle is very thin, meaning the fuselage sides aren't thick. I might build this up with balsa. I have yet to examine the fuselage outside the protective plastic, but I did notice that the belly pan over the wing is 0.125" too narrow at the front (simple to fix). The trailing edge of the rudder is bowed, but can hopefully be "adjusted."
In some areas of the construction, balsa was used that has those dark spots. I equate these spots to material I wouldn't build with because it's brittle and has a short grain. I'm concerned about the wing sheeting in particular. Have any owners of this model taken a good look through the covering (a cheep but strong film covering by who knows who) to assess the quality of balsa used in construction?
The landing gear is fiberglass. The fiberglass cowl is very neatly cutout (not prototypical). The canopy is thin, and shouldn't add too much weight to the model. I will likely paint the inside with a light color (reflective) and attach with nylon screws.
The wheel pants are small and therefore light weight but won't hold a decent size wheel.
The two halves of the wing are joined with a solid obeechee (sp?) dihedral brace. It fits in the pocket smoothly but I think this being a short grain material is inappropriate, but could work if its cut down a bit and laminated on both sides with unidirectional carbon fiber; then installed into the wing halves.
All for now. Let me know what you guys think of the balsa used in construction.
Michael...
My wings appear pretty straight; the right panel is the better of the two although both have ailerons that are a tad bowed (a lot like my Focus was at first but trimmed out very solid). I thought the stabilizer halves were a little on the heavy side, I assume this is because of the tube sockets and support material. The wing saddle is very thin, meaning the fuselage sides aren't thick. I might build this up with balsa. I have yet to examine the fuselage outside the protective plastic, but I did notice that the belly pan over the wing is 0.125" too narrow at the front (simple to fix). The trailing edge of the rudder is bowed, but can hopefully be "adjusted."
In some areas of the construction, balsa was used that has those dark spots. I equate these spots to material I wouldn't build with because it's brittle and has a short grain. I'm concerned about the wing sheeting in particular. Have any owners of this model taken a good look through the covering (a cheep but strong film covering by who knows who) to assess the quality of balsa used in construction?
The landing gear is fiberglass. The fiberglass cowl is very neatly cutout (not prototypical). The canopy is thin, and shouldn't add too much weight to the model. I will likely paint the inside with a light color (reflective) and attach with nylon screws.
The wheel pants are small and therefore light weight but won't hold a decent size wheel.
The two halves of the wing are joined with a solid obeechee (sp?) dihedral brace. It fits in the pocket smoothly but I think this being a short grain material is inappropriate, but could work if its cut down a bit and laminated on both sides with unidirectional carbon fiber; then installed into the wing halves.
All for now. Let me know what you guys think of the balsa used in construction.
Michael...
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
Here is the link to the Sword I was the co-winner of on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5992311054
I have not see a new listing. I'm floored that I was able to get the kit at this price.
Michael...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5992311054
I have not see a new listing. I'm floored that I was able to get the kit at this price.
Michael...
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
FlyJohn,
Did you get a chance to fly your Sword yet? Anxious to hear how it went.
Did you get a chance to fly your Sword yet? Anxious to hear how it went.
ORIGINAL: flyjohn
I'm using a hyde mount with my OS160 using the offset block to get the right thrust and added a nosering into the cowl . I have the cowl mounted overlapping the fuse and the distance I came up with was 6 7/8", firewall to thrust washer and total length was just under 2M. I cut into the stab to add the adjusters and added a 1/16" ply root rib. The gator stab tube socket fits into the socket already in the plane, so I used the the stab the was correct and just had to drill into the other side stab to get it lined up. Still looking at next weekend for 1st flights.
I'm using a hyde mount with my OS160 using the offset block to get the right thrust and added a nosering into the cowl . I have the cowl mounted overlapping the fuse and the distance I came up with was 6 7/8", firewall to thrust washer and total length was just under 2M. I cut into the stab to add the adjusters and added a 1/16" ply root rib. The gator stab tube socket fits into the socket already in the plane, so I used the the stab the was correct and just had to drill into the other side stab to get it lined up. Still looking at next weekend for 1st flights.
#32
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
Congrats to Chuck for his win in Intermediate at Dallas with his Sword. Had to add some tail weight with a mintor 170 up front....we did a weigh in and it was 10lbs. 12oz. with the tail weight and No Cowling. This plane can make weight, even with it's overweight landing gear. Looked like a good flyer too (I heard some mixing required.....:-).
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
I have flown the sword! thanks mark. The mixing used was basically elevator in the knife edge around 3% to correct a push to the belly.
The cg in the book is wrong! i balanced the model 2.5 fingers behind the leading edge tip of the wing. ( I will be more specific later this week)
sorry bout being so short but i am buried here at the house with other stuff.
more to come, ask any questions and i will answer as best i can
Chuck
The cg in the book is wrong! i balanced the model 2.5 fingers behind the leading edge tip of the wing. ( I will be more specific later this week)
sorry bout being so short but i am buried here at the house with other stuff.
more to come, ask any questions and i will answer as best i can
Chuck
#34
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
Chuck,
Congratulation!! on your winning!!
Are you coming to Fort Scott?
I am trying to finish the Sword by the middle of next week before the contest, but not sure.
How did you end up adding 8oz of weight? Isn't it too much?
I wonder how mine going to come out with 140. I am still trying to set the engine with the Asano pipe (I don't have the Asano header, but the standard 140 header goes in to the neck of the pipe). If it doesn't work, I will have to try my Blue Bird pipe.
Any addition of materials for strengthening? I am thinking about a little of carbon or just balsa strips inside the fuse.
Send me a picture of the plane!
Congratulation!! on your winning!!
Are you coming to Fort Scott?
I am trying to finish the Sword by the middle of next week before the contest, but not sure.
How did you end up adding 8oz of weight? Isn't it too much?
I wonder how mine going to come out with 140. I am still trying to set the engine with the Asano pipe (I don't have the Asano header, but the standard 140 header goes in to the neck of the pipe). If it doesn't work, I will have to try my Blue Bird pipe.
Any addition of materials for strengthening? I am thinking about a little of carbon or just balsa strips inside the fuse.
Send me a picture of the plane!
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
RC_Pattern_Flyer,
Thanks for the update and most importantly, congrats on the win. Your nose heaviest, makes the idea of cutting a couple inches off the back of the cowl to accommodate moving the engine back sound like a good one. Any comments on moving the engine back?
Thanks for the update and most importantly, congrats on the win. Your nose heaviest, makes the idea of cutting a couple inches off the back of the cowl to accommodate moving the engine back sound like a good one. Any comments on moving the engine back?
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
i did not use one of the engine mount extenders (?). I used the wedge for thrust and one spacer. I also used a hyde aria mount which could easily add a bit of weight to the nose causing the forward balance point but!!!! the cg is way off dont forget according to the instructions. I built in no strengthening to the fuse but i thought about using triangle stock under the wing mount to avoid any oops.
i did not cut the cowl, but did slide it back onto the fuse... ties the nose together nicely
I ended up not flying the greve pipe as planned. i needed about 4 more inches of pipe tunnnel and could probably fabricate it out but went with a mintor pipe ( aluminum) and when my aeroslave pipe comes in i will switch to it ( all carbon fiber).
Can't tell you how much of a joy the plane is to fly, really smooth and stable. It likes to com ein under power and then just about a foot up kill the motor and let her settle. Once i got slow and the nose up an it was the ugliest landing i have ever flown. but... tires hit the runway and it was a 10
hehehe
more to come later guys.
Chuck
i did not cut the cowl, but did slide it back onto the fuse... ties the nose together nicely
I ended up not flying the greve pipe as planned. i needed about 4 more inches of pipe tunnnel and could probably fabricate it out but went with a mintor pipe ( aluminum) and when my aeroslave pipe comes in i will switch to it ( all carbon fiber).
Can't tell you how much of a joy the plane is to fly, really smooth and stable. It likes to com ein under power and then just about a foot up kill the motor and let her settle. Once i got slow and the nose up an it was the ugliest landing i have ever flown. but... tires hit the runway and it was a 10
hehehe
more to come later guys.
Chuck
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
My plane is ready to go but as I was setting up the radio equipment I had a problem with my radio and had to send it in to get that fixed. [&o] Hoping to have it back soon. Looks like the plane is a winner, at least in one contest, LOL. I was going to start with balance point at 1/3 of chord at wing saddle and I guess thats about where Chuck has it. So far no extra weight added for balance, I guess I'll see how it goes after 1st flight.
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
Chuck, Just wondering about ground clearance with stock gear. With a 16" or 17" prop, there is not much room from prop tip to ground with tail level. Was that an issue on takeoffs or landings? besides the landing you mentioned, of course, lol. and is there some taller gear to use in place of stock gear?
Astropuppy, I just cut off the dowel and cut into the stab just ahead of dowel, lining with 1/8" Ply to mount the adjuster and I added some 1/8" ply also on the inside fuse to put the aluminum rod through.
Looks like my radio won't be back till next week sometime so at least I know what I'll be doing next weekend.:-)
Astropuppy, I just cut off the dowel and cut into the stab just ahead of dowel, lining with 1/8" Ply to mount the adjuster and I added some 1/8" ply also on the inside fuse to put the aluminum rod through.
Looks like my radio won't be back till next week sometime so at least I know what I'll be doing next weekend.:-)
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
I had no problem with clearance and did drop it in once from a decnt height (2 feet), although i do land engine off. I shortened the tailwheel as much as possible to let the nose come up just a tad.
BACK to the first flight. throttle, speed, litle elevator.. clean climb out. 2 clicks down elevator.
Landings need to be flown to the runway. by this i put the nose down left idle up a little when i crossd the thresold of the runway i killed the motor and the plane slowed nicely. i would recommend not trying to flare this plane in too soon as it slows well and lkes to be just slightly nose high and sink into the runway.
A note on the tail. found my elevator to be quite "loose". so i squeezed the stabs together and had a friend mark he tube. drilled and attached screws. we buried alf moon wood dowels in the stab tube to add strength to screw into. then i used thin light ply to shim the stabs tight. drop of ca to hold in place.. now it is a semi removable.
I will post my cg on sunday after i get to it been very busy.
i ran a 16.5 prop witno probs.. i measured 10 inches clearnace
flyj, what motor are you running and what mount did you use?
i am curious how you got to balance so nicely.
i am flying a hyde aria mount 9 little heavy) and a mintor 170
i can move the battery to the tail and remove the tail weight i think. bat= 5.5 oz
BACK to the first flight. throttle, speed, litle elevator.. clean climb out. 2 clicks down elevator.
Landings need to be flown to the runway. by this i put the nose down left idle up a little when i crossd the thresold of the runway i killed the motor and the plane slowed nicely. i would recommend not trying to flare this plane in too soon as it slows well and lkes to be just slightly nose high and sink into the runway.
A note on the tail. found my elevator to be quite "loose". so i squeezed the stabs together and had a friend mark he tube. drilled and attached screws. we buried alf moon wood dowels in the stab tube to add strength to screw into. then i used thin light ply to shim the stabs tight. drop of ca to hold in place.. now it is a semi removable.
I will post my cg on sunday after i get to it been very busy.
i ran a 16.5 prop witno probs.. i measured 10 inches clearnace
flyj, what motor are you running and what mount did you use?
i am curious how you got to balance so nicely.
i am flying a hyde aria mount 9 little heavy) and a mintor 170
i can move the battery to the tail and remove the tail weight i think. bat= 5.5 oz
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
Finally got 1st flight in with my Sword on Saturday, yea!! Had to get my engine running right. Got plane on runway it tracked right down runway, Once in the air needed a couple clicks down, and a couple to the left. Full power to power off, it tracked staight, so I think balance is good. Just gonna be playing with roll rates and the other throws to get it the way I like. Had problem with nose ring about half way in on 2nd flight and got that fixed over night then it was too windy to fly today, oh well. Can't wait till next weeked now.
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
You can get the sword 140 from texasrc.com I have just orderd one,I do not intend to fly competition so i don`t care if it is over 11lb
I am going to use an evolution35 gas with a tunned pipe,I want a plane to practice pattern and still do some 3d, getting burnned out on 3d.
I am going to use an evolution35 gas with a tunned pipe,I want a plane to practice pattern and still do some 3d, getting burnned out on 3d.
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
Thats texasrcplanes.com sorry. recieved the plane Quality looks good for a $200.00 ARF, the manual is junk looks like it
was printed out on a home PC, the only problem I see with the plane at the start of the project is the tube in the tail for
the aluminum tube for the stab is not square with the fuse, when you slide the stabs on their are large 1/4 inch gaps. wings
look good, covering looks good but color do not match red cowl.
using Evolution 35 because I already have it , had it first in a chip Hyde Tunnel Vission 3d plane that turned out
over weight too, I think I can the plane fliying at under 12lb should fly well at 4hp. I like the evolution 35 engine
but their are not many Arfs made for 35cc engines, and none for 35cc engines with tunned pipes.
Evolution 35 only gets about 3hp with pits muffler da50 get 5hp with pits and weighs less.
pattern plane best fit for engine I could find.
was printed out on a home PC, the only problem I see with the plane at the start of the project is the tube in the tail for
the aluminum tube for the stab is not square with the fuse, when you slide the stabs on their are large 1/4 inch gaps. wings
look good, covering looks good but color do not match red cowl.
using Evolution 35 because I already have it , had it first in a chip Hyde Tunnel Vission 3d plane that turned out
over weight too, I think I can the plane fliying at under 12lb should fly well at 4hp. I like the evolution 35 engine
but their are not many Arfs made for 35cc engines, and none for 35cc engines with tunned pipes.
Evolution 35 only gets about 3hp with pits muffler da50 get 5hp with pits and weighs less.
pattern plane best fit for engine I could find.
#48
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
I would glue the stab in, mine was not very tight and "wiggled" some. I would create a sloid stab. Good luck, let us know how it flies.
PS, the covering sucks.. if you can cover well, i would tear it off and start over.
Chuck
PS, the covering sucks.. if you can cover well, i would tear it off and start over.
Chuck
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RE: Sword 2M pattern plane
I have chuck's Sword and it can be had cheap. I just have too many planes. I think it only needs a battery and rx. I'm in east tx. flys great I just have 2 other 2m planes.