When you use a double jam nut, you can tighten the inner one - the one right next to the prop - as tight as possible. However, do not over tighten the outer nut.

When the engine throw a prop, it can break the tip of the crankshaft. In turn, it will destroy the spinner cone as well, it happened to both Derek Koopowitz's and my 170. Yes, we have learned the hard way ... []

Adrian

Yes, in my case the tru-tune double jam nuts (0814 ) was used and tightened.

The spinner, the nuts, and the prop were all thrown out. The prop landed about 10 ft to the left and 3ft in front of the engne, the spinner went to the right about the opposite location to the prop. Both were destroyed during the impact to the ground.

A potential "killing" zoom does exists in front of a running engine!


Interestingly, the double jam nuts traveled a very short distance: it landed just right underneath the engine.

ey guys! Many nice Venus II`s here:P
I finally ordered mine yesterday, and i am now wondering if anybody have tried to install a smoke system in this plane? Any room for the tank at all?
I have ordered the O.S 4 Stroke 120 with pump, and were planning to run a slimline inverted/w smoke installed....

Although i've never done it, I know there is plenty of room for a smoke system, provided you mount the servos in the back.
With an OS 120 you should be mounting the servos in the back anyway for balance.

Look back through this thread and you will see pictures of how i mounted the tank over the CG. By modifying the former at that location alot of room is freed up.
You can mount 1 tank at the regular location and the other one over the CG.
If you do cut the top of the former be sure to brace it afterwards with a cross member. I have done this to 4 Venus's now with excellent results.

If you want more detaild pictures of this area or explaination let me know.

Not sure how much smoke a 120 will put out though since it's a glow engine.
Anybody out there have experience with smoke on a glow engine? I'd be curious myself.

Would you post all those images you got? Maybe take some more?

I have to run out the door for work, but here is one to start.

1) Here i cut the top (facing you when plane is upside-down) of the fuse former.
2) Add some small hardwood pieces to the sides of former to make a spot for the screws you see in the picture. They only need to be as long as the screws.
3) The cross member you see is 1/8 x 1/2 inch hardwood strip with screws. this reinforces the former back to it's original strength. and holds the tank in position.
4) I added thin foam under the tank to protect it from abrasion

As you can this provides a nice place for a tank.
Notice in front of the tank is more room, and more room at the original location for the tank.
Servos are in the tail.

I can post more pix later.

nice.. More pictures plz

I moved the tank to CG in the way similar to what codfish did. If you search a couple of pages back, you should find some pictures.

Here are some more pitctures of my installation.

1. The cut out area around CG. Note that only the central area of the servo tray has been cut out. The two remaining sides become the anchor areas for the two veclo pieces (the rear two). The bottom of the canopy deck was beefed up with 0.2mm CF sheet.

2. How the velco pieces are anchored to the fuze.

3. How the front velco piece is anchor to the fuze. The wood piece is glued to the fuze.

4. The fuel tank

5. the foam rubber is placed first before mounting the tank

6. Tie down the velcos to secure the tank

7. There is about 1/4" Gap for the tank to clear the wing.

8. Another wood piece added to mount the throttle servo.

Well, now i have ordered:

Slimline 4-STROKE INVERTED W/SMOKE O.S. 120

and smoke fluid tank++

Only thing needed now is a pump....

Smoke pump brought
I expect to have the plane and the most parts by friday!
Will make a new post on my project

i'm interested in how it works out for you. yes a post would be great.

Just wondering did any one of you guys have any issues with the spinner fitting over the 15*10 APC prop. I went to assemble the cone part of the spinner and noticed that the cone wouldn't seat into the spinner backplate. there is about one eighth of an inch distance between the cone and the backplate do to the thickness of the prop. I was wondering if you guys used a different spinner or what? Thanks for any imput.

are you using the stock spinner? if so, I had the same problem with my APC 15X10. I ended up ordering a special Tru Turn spinner that accepts even bigger props http://www.advantagehobby.com/produc...9&cat=0&page=2

What I did in the mean time though with desperation to fly was shave a little bit of the metal off with an exacto knife to make the prop fit

That's the correct spinner for that prop. Be very careful and make sure you order the one with the -120 extention to the TT part number or you'll get the wrong one. Do NOT ask me how I know this!!! [sm=48_48.gif]

Thanks guys I will order a new spinner from tru Turn and I am so glad it wasn't just me. ....LOL ....Thanks again ....LOL

Hooah!
Venus II 100% buildt, and smoke system installed!
Pictures from the plane inside will be here soon.. For now.... pictures from the 2 first flights i had! [8D]

Absolutly i had the same problem with the spinner not fitting, but it was easy to fix. I did not order another spinner. I was using a 15x10 as well.

Use a sharpie marker and mark where the prop hits the spinner. using a medium size ratail file and a half round file. slowly file each side until the prop fits and there is a bit of clearence (the prop should not touch the spinner). Just do a little at a time and keep checking the clearence and file again. After about 700 flights with that spinner i've had no problems.

I know the spinner makers say don't modify the spinner, but if you use a little common sense and be careful i find it is just fine. I have done this to many spinners in the past.

On the other hand tru-turn maks a spinner just for this prop, but they are expensive.



Another inportant step. I had problems with spinners coming off until i learned how to properly install them. A) be sure the spinner screw is not bottoming out on the hub. B) do not overtighen the screw. Here is how:

1) without the spinner cone in place insert the screw and count the turns exactly until it bottoms out.

2) mount the cone and insert the screw and count the turns again. Tighten the screw. Confirm that the count this time is at least 1/2 turn less than step 1. I prefer 1 full turn less, but sometimes 1/2 a trun will have to do. If the count is the same in step 1, cut the screw shorter a thread or 2 at a time.

3) another trick is to add a #8 split lock washer, this will move the screw out a bit.

4) NEVER tighten the screw to far other wise you will distort the cone slightly and the spinner will keep coming off. The cone is designed to pressure fit inside the lip of the backplate. So how far should you tighten the screw? The rule is this (according to tru-turn) only use 1 or 2 fingers on the allen wrench. Tru-turn has told me and i have fouind it to be true, you will be surprised that the screw does not need be very tight at all. I also use a SMALL amount of blue thread locker on the threads. Only use a small amount because if it locks too hard, removing the spinner will unscrew the jam nut instead.

t0riownageeee,

Looks great! thanks for the pictures. if you have pictures of the inside of the fuse where you installed these items it would be nice for us to see.

Coming

A stupid question..
In the manual it says guide the antenna down to the end of the fuselage....
Is the antenna suppost to come out somewere? or not?
If it is... were? ^^

No. Antenna doesn't come out.

Here are some pics of my Venus II with a YS 110FS-S:

Nice pictures!

That's a Jaccio regulator in there. I originally had a 1900mAh Li-po but since 1) I never put more than 400mA back in after 6 flights or so, 2) I flat-lined it by leaving it on for a week or so, and 3) it was kind of a shaky deal when I bought it (looked used though it was sold as new), I decided to buy a 2S 940 lipo ro replace it. That's a Ni-cad in the pics I was using for testing.

I just finished replacing the three HITEC HS-5645's in the tail with 3- JR DS-821's. Those Hitec's are strong but v-e-r-y-s-l-o-o-o-o-w... The JR's have plenty of torque and are reasonably speedly, a great value at about $30 each out the door. I currently use them for aileron control where I've been very happy with the crisp roll response they provide. In pitch and yaw it was adequate but a little sluggish so we'll see if it's an improvement.

I am using Futaba 9202s on all control surfaces which are also fast and precise, and more importanting good centering capability. How do you like the VII and YS110s? Is vibration well under control?