Hi!
Have flown about 10 flights now and the plane starts to fit my fingers , or maybe my fingers have change to fit the plane....well forget that!
my CG is now placed 22 cm from l.e. ....this is without the belly pan and wing ..just fuse! Havent messured with wing ..but adjusted it to it fit me , it maybe needs some more ..but not much.

It snaps wery fast and clean (uses max ailron and less elev. and rudder) .
Spin dont need as much elevator as on my Twister if i use to much its almost goes into flat spin , so use normal mode on this so fare.

So , what can i say , the planes flies like a dream and handels lovely!

I had some problems to get it roll nicely in the first flights but i think that just was my winter cold fingers that needed some sun!

Rune

Hey Rune! Great thread. I think you've covered most of the smaller niggles that several of us have encountered, including myself! Mine is finished and has flown 13 flights so far. Looks very promising, though I'm still finalising the trimming.
I can also recommend to builders to check ALL measurements and markings for yourself (but then we should do that anyway, right!). I got a lot of very good advice from several buddies, particularly one who also has recently finished his Oxalys.
My Oxalys is approx 4900g RTF with 1.60DZ and "short" pipe. Dual elevator servos (Fut 9650's)mounted simply in the fuse sides under the stabs: robust, easy to access and you can use shorter servo arms for best mechanical advantage. Also had to "fill" the stab/ fuse gap as you mentioned. CG is much further aft than in the instructions, mine is 20cm aft of the "flat" L/E, ie 26cms forward of the true T/E. Even that seems quite conservative, I'll probably move it slightly further aft by the time I'm finished. Had 30g lead in the nose initially but have removed it now. Control throws are all smaller than I thought initially as all surfaces are VERY powerful, especially the rudder! I'm not using the Canaliser yet although the mounting points are done, thought I'd try it without at first.
Overall, I think it's a very good package for the price although TS could certainly work on some of the details as mentioned. The finish is very good, much better than any other model I've owned or could hope to achieve on my own.
Now all I have to do is try to do the aircraft justice in FAI.................that's gonna be the hardest part!
Best of luck to all other TS Oxali owners (there's a good many around now!)
Bill.

Dear Rune;

You placed the fuel tank inside the honeycomb plate. Do you use any type of protection in the fuel tank to avoid the fiberglass covering of honeycomb to cut it? Or you consider it is not need? Please comment. Also update about your flights.

Best Regards. Alfonso.

Hi Alfonso.
If you use a honeycomb plate you have to use some kind off rubber on the edge around the tank and also if you route the servo\radio wires through the plate (edges are wery sharp) i used some rubber band that are used to seal around windows on houses!
i have about 30 flights i think 15 liters on the DZ lost one wheel and a spinner in air.
It has less mixing than the Twister i had ..on my 12 MZ i have i think 8 % and uses curved mix on rudder to ail and elev most on elev, also added some down on idle to avoid it to pitch out in down lines.
I think this will be a nice plane to compete with this season.
When i got the plane i didnt got any TC Canaliser but got a balsa kit for one and are going to build and mount it as quick as possible , i also think that the rudder is not as sharp as on the Twister, manuvers as the horizontal 8 with rolls its not as easy to do as it was on the Twister but the TC Canaliser should hlep on this issue as i heard!

Hi guys!

have flown it with the TC canaliser , and what can i say!
On my Oxalys this resulted in that i could remove alsmot all rud. to elev. mix , it felt a bit more sensitive on the elevator to .
It helped a lot on the rudder it was a lot more "crispy" in manuvers like rolling loop etc.
pics from our airflield ...2 Twisters and my Oxalys between, guys on the pics are Dag R. Larsen and his father Dag Ø. Larsen!

Dear Rune;

Please, can you inform where do you place the RX antenna? I am worried about the carbon fibber fuselage.
For your reference I will use the new OS FS-200FI in my Oxalys.

Best Regards. Alfonso.

Dear Rune,

Could you send me the measurement of your T canalizer?

I had the gold kit that includes the T canalizer, but I think TS had the mould wrong and after mounting the incidence was positive. Many trial and errors by shimming to change the incidence of the T and still it just hurt the performance of the plane....especially on rudder it always want to roll. I reluctantly took off the T and the plane behave much better. The T becomes a laughing topic of my flying buddies.... I would love to make good on the T and shut their big mouth....

Regards,

Jason

Hi
I'm not sure but i think its from ZN line?? http://www.mamut.com/controls/shop/s...roductdet.asp?
maybe the link work .....
Papaone posted some drawings here some time back that was CPLR originals if i'm not wrong!
I havent messured any indience on it !

My antenna is going out of the fuselage only 4-5 cm inside the fuselage.
takecaere that the hole not have sharp edges!

Hi happy modelists

You're right Rune.
Some explanation from family PLR :
Its placed 25mm behind the canopy of the Oxalys, with 0.5 degree negative incidence to the stab.
Envergure: 200 mm
Cordes: 100/60 mm
Bord de suite rectiligne
airfoil naca 10% (horizontal et vertical)
Hauteur moyenne 50 mm
I can send drawings if you give me your mail adress.
Claude

Rune; what's about building of your GoodShot ?

After long delay here few pictures of mine:
Test flight this weekend (I hope...)
Amram

Dear Friends;

I made my first TS Oxalys flights this week very satisfactory, but I have a problem, the model pull to the canopy in downlines a lot, I checked aileron and are booth 1 mm down (the T edge in aileron are 1mm thinner than in the wing!!!!) Engine spinner looks ok with fuselage nose. Do you have the same problem? Are you modified the engine trusht? CG looks Ok, 215mm from leading edge without wing. Please comment.

Best Regards. Alfonso.

Dear Alfonso,

You have to cerfuly check your H.Stab incidence angle. There is no need for the ailerons to be 1 mm down for
a straight and level flight. Good adjustment of the incidence angle and CG will make your plan go down straight and ailerons at 0.
you can adjust the angle on the H.Stab and put both in -1 angle to start with. You can start from there and fine tune as needed.

Very best regards

Amram Leshed
F3A Israel

Hi Alfonso, some things you might want to check:
The nose-ring on the fuselage seems to have a bit too much "down" built-in, so if you align the spinner backplate with it you will probably have too much down-thrust (maybe up to 1deg too much). I think my downthrust's about 1deg or SLIGHTLY more, relative to the wing. So there's slightly more gap at the bottom of the spinner backplate, compared to the top.
Next, make sure the stab is set at approx 1/2deg down (at the L/E) relative to the wing. Mine's actually at approx 1/3deg.
CG-wise, my CG (inverted, model complete) is now approx 250mm from the actual wing T/E. So, much further aft than in the instr's.
Ailerons are neutral. I'm not (yet!) using the T/C. If you do, it needs to be shimmed to the right angle otherwise it won't fly well.
A very good model once it's trimmed out.
Hope this helps.
Regards, Bill.

Dear Bill/Amram:

Thanks for your reply, it is very useful. I do not use T/C, I will test in the future but I like to adjust my model before add more complexity!!
Your TS Oxalys have a good fit between wing and fuselaje/cowl? The wing seat on mine is not Ok with gap in the front. I plain to add some wood in the front of fuselaje, its mind add negative incidence in wing, I will need to modifie stab incidence and at the end I will have positive incidence in the engine, I am talking for about 1/3 degree only but I am sure it can help. I will test again later to know if it is need more adjust.

Best Regards.

well
have decided to do some mods. on my plane ...replace the elevator servo with 2 fut.9650 to move more weight backwards.
total weight now before mod is 4996 .......... also change the 2300 Mah bettery to this new Shultze lipo pack this will give me ca 25 gr also ..maybe i can reduce the plane with 50 gr total...a bit more on the right side off 5000 gr.
I also had to change the undercarriage to a Bolly the original (and lighter) didnt survived grass field lasted about 75 flights.

Dear Rune,
I think Bolly LG are too rough and strong. I agree with you that TS LG does not last long at all and are not build right.
I also fly on grass and from Day 1 I put ZNline LG.
and the zero point will be equal and paralel to main wings
As to the 2 servos on the back - I have also but mini JR. You have to cerfully adjust the travel (end points) so both will be equal.
On my T14MZ I choose tail section of ELE1 and ELE2 and the radio links the 2 very weel.
I suggest you to follow Futaba recomandation to connect the radio

Ch1 - Elev 1
Ch2 - Elev 2
Ch3 - Rud
Ch4 - Ail 1
Ch5 - Ail 2
Ch6 - Thr

I had some problems during calibration flights. After consulting with CPLR I readjust the tail section
and move CG forward - The airplane fly striegt like a ruler. No need for any mixer at all - I could not belive it...


If you want to save front weight you can order Mejzlik carbon props.
http://www.mejzlikmodellbau.com/
These are great props, you will save allot of total weight and CG move backwards as you take weight from Front.
They also look very nice. YES... expensive.... we all know that loosing weight is expensive.... :-)


Amram

Hallo Amram

I hope your YS is running fine , good to see you here.

Gerrie

Hi Gerrie
I hope that are you are well as well as family and planes.
My both YS works very well and the 3rd one (Backup - completly new) is resting, waiting his turn.

The motor which stopped on the last round stopped due to breakage of the outlet pipe of the muffler.
Celvin took pictures of the dead-stick landing and it is clearly shows that the pipe is missing.
I made a new pipe of aluminum and glued it to the muffler. Since it is going into the muffler in 45 degrees it has a
long guiding hole so it was not even necessary to mold it and 3M 190 epoxy was enough to glue it. The motor did not stop since.

The other motor which the crankshaft broke is also fine. I wrote a letter to YS Japan with the story of what happen.
4 days later the postman knocked my door and gave me a small package from Japan with a new crankshaft and apology letter.
This is unbelievable. Things can happen but such support is what makes the difference!!! thank you YS.
I opened the motors, changed the shaft. The motor is installed on my new Oxalys - also never stopped.

It was such an experience in SA NATS with the motors... Some time Murrfy works overtime....

Have a great day
Amram

Dear Friends;

Last week my TS Oxalys was losse, I had stab flutter in a level flight full power for adjust engine trusth. It is look that stab tube come back in the fuselage and left stab was out incidence pin. It was my seven flight, still adjusting the model. Unfortunately left stab was gone and I do not recover it to know if there is any other problem before the stab tube come back. Of course the full model was destroid, no control in elevator and without one stab CG was too forward to try any other solution. I am still socked, in twenty years at F3A I never had a flutter and I use first quality components like Kato and powerful digital servo from Sanwa. Coming back to my old model for this week Spanish Nats.
Have a good look with your Oxalys.
Alfonso.

Dear Alfonso,
I am very sorry to hear about this lost. It is very sad to loose 2 F3A ship.
At list on my model as well as on Rune's model the H.Stab, when the H.stab installed properly, results in having 3mm gap in H.Stab Leading edge
and 1mm gaps on H.stab TE. (You can see it is this message of Rune pictures).

My question is if you had these gaps also and if yes how did you fix it.
TS suggested to push the 2 parts of H.Stab to the Fuselage and then to have the securing screw to hold them tight against the fuselage.
This very wrong suggestion. The only way to handle it is to fill it will plywood or other aviation composite material as having
the screws holding the 2 tabs tight applies un necessary force on the joint carbon pipe

Amram

Dear Amram;

Thanks for your reply, but I only loose one F3A model, my old one still alive.
I fill the gap with 3mm hard balsa wood, as I remember, and I push the stab together a little to drill the hole for the fixing screws, but fuselage was not pressed. After that the stabs looks very good fit and do not have any play in any way, my old models with fiberglass fuselage are not as rigid. The stab tube is not damaged, and the sleeve and fixing screws for the missing stab are still on the stab tube together the right stab. It is very small quantity of glue in the stab sleeve, only in the stab root and one drop of glue in the fixing screw place, in my opinion is not enough.

Best Regards. Alfonso.

Hi Amram
what size off prop you use?
i have not tried this Mejzlik props before ...but heard the make a bit more noice !
Rune

I am using 18x10

well my Oxalys died yesterday!

The engine stopped just after takeoff in the first 90 degreeds turn out and it didnt manage to get back to the airfield.
Whats bad is that it my fault ...i had just had it up for some minutes and landed it for some radio programming , i let it stand on the ground at idle for some minutes and didnt gave full throtel at ground before take off ......

So Papaone that lead me back to the build off Good Shot!

From Fun to Grief in 10 seconds....I have heard ( ! ) that Dino will get a couple of Osmoses later this year and perhaps that would be something to wait for....