Troy Newman

Shim the motor mount for a 1/2" difference between the left and right prop tips. THIS NUMBER IS ONLY GOOD IF THE PROP USED FOR THE MEASURMENT IS 12" DIAMETER.

So bolt a 12" prop on it....and take the measurements. Or do the trigonometry on the 15" prop...either way...setup about 2.33degs of right thrust.

Then Install a Nose ring. Without the nose ring there is nothing you can do to set tot he thrustline properly. The thrust will be constantly changing...the model under G loads of pulling corners and throttle up and down changes the thrust line will change...and it will change a bunch.

Flat turning means the model is Yawing in flight. Fly directly away from you and into the wind or directly downwind. Is the model flying straight or is curving left or right. If the model is yawing in a horizontal line then its flat turning...the wings are level but the model is turning....

This is how I set my rudder trim...you need to do this as various throttle settings...they will have an affect.

If you don't have a nose ring in the model you are wasting your time. You can't tell where to set it becasue its moving all the time.

If you don't have close to the offset I talk about you are again wasting your time. If we already know that about 2.33degs is about right....then it does ZERO good to try it at 1 deg of offset.


Get the changes made and we'll walk you through it...its a really good model. I have my model here for a reference.



Troy

JPal101

My Feedback: (32)

Troy

I installed the nose ring and offset is done

Troy Newman

Now when you fly the model....

Fly it directly away from you into any wind. Or directly downwind. Do this many times at 1/2 throttle, So you are flying without crosswind and looking at the model straight on. Set you rudder trim. It may take several passed. Also you will likely have to play with aileron trim trim too.

But make the model fly straight no flat turning...and the ailerons are dead on hands off as well.

Once you have this set...vary the throttle like 3/4 power, or even full power and the same test.

Then fly directly away from you go to a given power setting that will maintain a straight no flat turn situation in level flight and pull to vertical, leaving the throttle where it is even if its 1/2. After the corner straighten the model if it needs it then let go and watch the model. Since its going directly away from you don't be out 1000yds but don't be right over you head either. Do the test many times and make sure you are pulling straight into the vertical....let go and watch the model. This will tend to show you if you need more thrust offset left and right or not.

This same test happens at higher throttle settings...But for now don't vary the throttle in the vertical...set it where you need it and then pull the corner leaving it alone for the up line.


Once you have your thrust line tweaked goo like this then we can talk about variable throttle changes on the upline....This is where we will use a mix if its needed....If the model pulls the corners and goes straight without the throttle moving its set for thrust line. However it is possible that throttle position changes down then up then down on the up line will cause the model veer a little this is usually minor. See what you got and we'll talk more.


Do the tests many many times to determine if the model is doing the same thing. If its very slight to the left or right...try a click or two of rudder trim and then re-do the straight flight away and toward you to see how it affects the horizontal lines and the flat turning. You will get a rudder trim that is about right but it still may wander just a little on a upline...or its goo all the way until full power and at 3/4 to full at the very tops it will wonder just a smidgen. When you get it like that come back and let me know....and we'll discuss the next step.

This is the proper place to apply the throttle to rudder mix. But there are some pitfalls and you want to avoid them. By the way my Focus Sport doesn't have the throttle to rudder mix I just checked the radio.


Troy Newman

JPal101

My Feedback: (32)

Troy,

Great, I will fly it in the next couple of days and let you know.

atul

Troy:

I've got a YS-110, but I wanted to ask: will a JETT 90L (which uses a 12x6 or 12x7 prop - nothing bigger) be appropriate for the Focus Sport? From the pictures, it seems that the model does not particularly require a very large prop. The JETT turns at 15,000 RPM and has great throttle response. In theory, that should be OK for the Focus Sport.

Please advise. Is this model totally unsuited to engines like the JETT? Is it made specifically for 4-strokes like the YS-110?

Thanks,

Atul Saini

Troy Newman

I have no idea sorry. I don't like 2 strokes for pattern type flying. They are fine if you intend to fly at full power all the time but they just suffer in the torque curves at middle throttle positions. If you want to fly pattern with a Focus Sport I think you should use a YS 110 it is an excellent combination.


Troy

wackedrc

Since we are for the moment on the motor subject.... What rpm range is best for the YS 110 ? I have been running a 15-10 with 20% fuel. Runs about 8600 static at full throttle. This seems reasonable but my experience is mostly with OS four strokes.
Would the YS be happier with a 14-10 at a higher rpm ? It will pull the plane vertical as long as I hold it with the prop i am using now,so all seems fine but will the motor maby be happier if i run it a little faster?

Thanks again Troy for all of your help with this plane on this forum!
....Dan

pappy35

Great timing on that question. I'm on the learning curve with my YS110 and am currently running an APC 14-10 on CP 30% Heli Mix. I think the 14-10 is a little light for this motor. I can peak it to just over 10k (I back it off to 9.7k).

The only other prop I could find locally was an APC 15-12 which I'm hoping won't be on the other end on the spectrum. Look forward to Troy's response.



Al

pappy35

<snip>

Duplicate post.


Al

Troy Newman

On the 30% heli mix the 15-10 is perfect for my conditions...but I'm hot desert at about 1200ft. It will get better at lower elevations and still be great.

The 14-10 is a little light loaded for the 30% nitro but that is fine...you are not going to hurt the motor running it in the high 9's. It will probably work better for you on a 15-10 at about 9300 with the 30% heli performance blend.

On only 20% nitro I suspect the 15-10 is a little heavy on load. Try a 15-8 APC. or the 14-10 due to the lower nitro. And yes it will be a little happier up over 9k

The best target rpm for the YS 110's is about 9000-9600 find a prop and a fuel that turns this for your conditions and the engine will be happy and making its best power.

If you are high elevation like Denver at 5000 or 6000ft try the 15-8 on the 30% nitro and you should be in the range.



Troy Newman
Team YS

pappy35

Troy a couple of questions to help me up the steeper part of the YS learning curve:

1) Is is normal for air bubbles to form in the fuel line between the regulator and the carb?

2) Fuel streams out of the air chamber air intake o-ring if it quits with fuel still in the line. Is this normal?

3) Surging is defined as a small (say 100-300 rpm) variation in rpm. This condition at the 4krpm set-point means it's _ _ _ _ (rich/lean)?

Thanks for your time and you many contributions to this board!

Troy Newman

your air bubbles are form the leak at the air box. Its not normal and surging at the 4000rpm number is a sign of lean. You are lean from the air leak.

Contact Richard Verano regarding this problem. He will take care of your problems for you.

Troy Newman

atul

> I have no idea sorry. I don't like 2 strokes for pattern type flying. They are fine if you intend to fly at full power all the time but they just suffer in the torque curves at
> middle throttle positions. If you want to fly pattern with a Focus Sport I think you should use a YS 110 it is an excellent combination.
>
> Troy

Thanks Troy. I see your point about the torque curves.

I'll go ahead and use my YS-110 then. The prop discussion on the thread has been useful.

atul

wackedrc

Thanks for the prop info Troy. I will try the 15-8 and see how that works. By the way I am in Oregon flying at about 150 feet above sea level. Right now temps ar in the 70's ,maby the heaver pitch prop will be the ticket when the air gets hotter and thinner. I had a feeling that the YS wanted to run a little higher rpm than i was running it. I also had a lean condition on my last flight. It was due to the YS two piece check valve getting loose and losing tank pressure. Replaced it with a one piece valve as it is inside the cowl and a little hard to get to without removing the cowl. Also just as info to some of the others it is a good idea to use small zip ties or some type of clamp on all of the connections to avoid leaks. Saves on dead stick landings! thats probably a givin to most people but i just thought i would throw it out there.

....Dan

RMFISH

ooops

RMFISH

Hello Troy,
Your mission statement in your first post about "Attracting new Pilots to F3A" certainly applies to me. I have been flying Models for over 13 years now and have often wondered what it would be like to fly with the discipline and knowledge that is so obviously needed to fly F3A. With the information you have assembled into a very understandable build "Manual" I am going to become one of the converts you wished for at the beginning of this Post.
Perhaps, since you were looking forward at last, to flying this air plane, you forgot to cover the actual rudder servo and pull pull system. I wonder, could you give a little more of your time to that subject, since I and probably many others, have never had to install one before.
Like many other pilots, even F3A Competitors, I fly "Electric". I wonder if you could tell me what the 110 YS weighs? I think that an AXI 4130/16 with 6 or 7 Li-Poly cells and a 16X8 or 16X10 APC E prop could do very well on this aircraft, would you have any comments regarding this.
Again, thank you very much for this post, I know that I will use all of the information it contains to build future aircraft, regardless of type.
Best regards,
Robert, Vancouver Canada.

RMFISH

Hello again Troy,

Could you please tell me what the DEPS set-up is?, with reference to the elevator.

Robert in Vancouver Canada.

Jeff_edge540

D.E.P.S. (Duel Elevator Pushrod System) explained:
http://www.centralhobbies.com/instru.../depsinst.html

socolofs

I'm new to RC model flying and got into the hobby mostly interested in pattern flying. I have two questions about the Focus Sport 110:

1. Given this quote above and the crash experienced in previous pages, I'm wondering whether there are differences in flight characteristics between the Focus Sport and a Sunday sport flier that you could point out for the novice pattern flier? I assume the Focus Sport is a pure joy to fly and exhibits wonderfully neutral stability. And this build thread shows how to make the linkages and controls safe to fly. But will the Focus Sport also have surprises in the air that the sport flier could not anticipate, or are there things sport fliers like to do that are dangerous with this plane (i.e., high-speed, on the deck passes)? Unfortunately the leading flight simulators are all geared toward 3D planes with large airfoils, so it's hard to get stick time on a pattern plane before investing in a starting point. My basic question is whether this a good starting point and what should I look out for? Are there any words of wisdom you can give the novice pattern flier that could be documented heresort of the 10 commandments of pattern flying.

2. I assume it is relatively simple to remove the wings for transport and to mount them quickly and accurately at the field. Is that true?

Thanks also for the threadthis should help all builders who want the best possible performance from their airplanes.

Scott

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

It is a very docile plane. I have been flying Troy's Focus Sport in Sportsman competition for 2 contests now and even with a couple of rough landings, it is holding up just fine and seems to have no surprises in the air. It is a little twitcher in the wind compared with a 2M version, but that is to be expected of smaller planes.

onewasp

Very neutral, very forgiving and very accurate.

It has no bad surprises at all. BUT it does have some very pleasant surprises.

It is NOT a trainer but it could be. Wring it out and it will stay with you. I find it to be a very pleasant surprise.

Regarding the poor experience you quoted I believe that flier did not use the appropriate servos etc. and ended up adding a lot of weight for balance.

The A/C is quite capable and will do whatever you would like to do (Pattern wise). Whether it is a ten or a seven is up to the pilot.

Landing it even in high winds is very controllable.

Last time up I was caught by a fast moving front and landed with the shingles on our shed roof standing straight up.
It handled quite nicely and didn't even brush a wing tip in extremely gusty conditions.

Not recommended, but the plane will handle conditions you have nightmares about. That is the plain truth without one iota of exaggeration.

Probably the best kept secret out there.

wackedrc

I agree with everything the others have said. NO bad flight tendencies at all. It has to almost come to a complete stop to stall,then just gently drops the left wing. Easy to fly and land. By far the BEST airplane i haver owned.

On another note.... I changed to 30% heli fuel from pro pattern 20%. The YS 110 likes this MUCH more. Way better idle and throttle response. About 9100 rpm static. With the 15-10 i would guess that would be around 9300-9400 in the air.
Also moved the battery back from on top of the gear mount to just behind the CG. This moved the CG back about 3/8" from where it was per the plans. Flies much better now. Neutral elevator trim so no coupling in knife edge. Just need to add a little right thrust and it will be spot on.(For now at least).



....Dan

mcdanman2003

My Feedback: (3)

Troy,

I have really enjoyed this thread and have learned many things. Thankyou for all of the time AND PATIENCE with all of us. Some while back someone asked for a word document of this thread. I have put something together for you in Word, and will email it to you.

You can review and edit as you see fit and hopefully you may be able to use it.
Dan McLalin

Sorry about the rough year you have had.

Troy Newman

Thanks guys....

I also have a word doc from another member and will be getting some time to edit and go through them. They are really long and detailed. I'm going to try and cut out some of the excess that is not needed.

Then it will be somehow posted to my Blog. Things are always busy for me and the Nationals only a month away adds to the excitement. Also I just test flew my new model last week and fine tuning it, and top it all off with finishing up a model for a friend.

So I have been a busy little bee.

I thank you guys for the work and effort you have put in to help me with the word documents.

I'll go through it all and have it up on the blog. I have to figure out how to put a link to the file, since the Blog is a little different format. The blog is a great avenue since the its easier to control. The problem with the Internet is things can get sidetracked. The Blog I can keep on track. There are many things that have been a work in progress to spread a good word about pattern flying. Those things are coming together a bit. These aren't promises, they are actually happening. So I'll cut you guys in this weekend and we'll get the ball rolling

Troy Newman
Team JR, Central Hobbies, YS, Cool Power Fuels, Bob Smith Adhesives

MarkGrabowski

Troy, where is your blog located?