SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
03-21-2010 | 09:41 PM
#651
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From: Tavares,
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
BTW, got my nose ring finished, but I don't want to post too much on it yet.
Similar to my nose ring on the Focus sport, it adds 26.5 grams to the cowl weight.
Flying it today, so I will start to learn if it is going to work out.
BTW, got my nose ring finished, but I don't want to post too much on it yet.
Similar to my nose ring on the Focus sport, it adds 26.5 grams to the cowl weight.
Flying it today, so I will start to learn if it is going to work out.
03-21-2010 | 09:49 PM
#652
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From: Ossining,
NY
RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
FlyEng, it seems to have worked out fine but I will know more tomorrow morning when I remove the cowl to do the other stuff with the coupler. And I will take some pics of it.
03-21-2010 | 10:17 PM
#653
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
Some recent updates on the carb and coupler and header...
The static nipple on the carb plate - with the attached fuel tube run inside the fuse - totally elminated the engine sagging (nearly deadstick!) issues when doing outside maneuvers. No change in engine performance at all with the static line installed.
Re the coupler: My max rpm's went down steadily, to the point that the engine was only capable of making 6800 rpm with the 18x10PN. So yesterday I cut the coupler and found that the coupler tape under heat and pressure was somehow rumpling up and constricting the exhaust by about 40%. I didn't have a camera and forgot to keep a piece of it to photograph, but after changing to a piece of Teflon tube the rpm's went right back up. Unfortunately, the Teflon tube I used was not the correct variety and it burned out after a quarter tank of fuel, but at least I have identified the culprit. Unfortunately (further!) the piece of Teflon I have is 5 feet long, so I now have about 4' 8''that I will have to find other uses for. Probably OK for glow, so if anybody has a glow engine and needs some 7/8'' ID Teflon, let me know and I'll send you some.
The tape is fine heat-wise, so my back-up plan is to use a piece of aluminum tube between the header and pipe and then wrap it with the tape. This will prevent any constriction of the tape and should solve the problem. I still have the 7/8'' aluminum wing tube for the Focus, so I know what I'll be using for that job!
The header bolts are holding up absolutely perfectly with the method I used of drilling the bolt heads and making a big clip from 5/64'' piano.
Some recent updates on the carb and coupler and header...
The static nipple on the carb plate - with the attached fuel tube run inside the fuse - totally elminated the engine sagging (nearly deadstick!) issues when doing outside maneuvers. No change in engine performance at all with the static line installed.
Re the coupler: My max rpm's went down steadily, to the point that the engine was only capable of making 6800 rpm with the 18x10PN. So yesterday I cut the coupler and found that the coupler tape under heat and pressure was somehow rumpling up and constricting the exhaust by about 40%. I didn't have a camera and forgot to keep a piece of it to photograph, but after changing to a piece of Teflon tube the rpm's went right back up. Unfortunately, the Teflon tube I used was not the correct variety and it burned out after a quarter tank of fuel, but at least I have identified the culprit. Unfortunately (further!) the piece of Teflon I have is 5 feet long, so I now have about 4' 8''that I will have to find other uses for. Probably OK for glow, so if anybody has a glow engine and needs some 7/8'' ID Teflon, let me know and I'll send you some.
The tape is fine heat-wise, so my back-up plan is to use a piece of aluminum tube between the header and pipe and then wrap it with the tape. This will prevent any constriction of the tape and should solve the problem. I still have the 7/8'' aluminum wing tube for the Focus, so I know what I'll be using for that job!
The header bolts are holding up absolutely perfectly with the method I used of drilling the bolt heads and making a big clip from 5/64'' piano.
I didn't realize you used a piece of teflon tubing between header and pipe. The typical variety teflon tube you would get at Mc Master Carr is paste extrusion variety which just won't hold up the the heat generated by either gasoline or YS 4 stroke. It isn't so much the teflon tube as much as it is the type of teflon (PTFE actually). There are about 40 different types of raw materials that can be used and of course, McMaster Carr carries the least expensive material since they can make the most money on it. Truth is that for 99.9% of the applications, the stuff is fine.
I kinda wished I knew so I could have steered you clear. Your new approach with the aluminum spacer will work fine.
BTW, what you described happened to me too in a 4 stroke application. There is a teflon type that would work, Teflon 62, but you would not find it at McMaster Carr. It's material used in aerospace and defense aircraft.
A Polyimide tube would work but it is very pricy, more than Teflon. Ally tubing is the simple, practical solution
Matt
03-22-2010 | 04:25 PM
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From: Ossining,
NY
RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
Matt, got it all re-taped this morning.
Also got an accurate measure of the coupler gap for the aluminum spacer, and it is exactly one inch. For those using the Macs header and ES 30G, that makes it easy to figure out for the 33-1/2" distance plug-to-pipe-end (body of the pipe, not the stinger).
Will get a chance to fly again Thursday and am expecting good things. It has been a bit frustrating at times, but thus goes the learning curve, especially when taking on several new twists at once. All that much better when everything is sorted out.
The plane has a bit of a pull to the canopy on downlines (w/throttle at idle) and I am thinking of taking a little incidence out of the wings... one turn of the adjusters to start out. The CG seems to me to be perfect.
Also got an accurate measure of the coupler gap for the aluminum spacer, and it is exactly one inch. For those using the Macs header and ES 30G, that makes it easy to figure out for the 33-1/2" distance plug-to-pipe-end (body of the pipe, not the stinger).
Will get a chance to fly again Thursday and am expecting good things. It has been a bit frustrating at times, but thus goes the learning curve, especially when taking on several new twists at once. All that much better when everything is sorted out.
The plane has a bit of a pull to the canopy on downlines (w/throttle at idle) and I am thinking of taking a little incidence out of the wings... one turn of the adjusters to start out. The CG seems to me to be perfect.
03-22-2010 | 07:15 PM
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From: Madison,
OH
RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
Matt,
I was just getting ready to order some teflon tubing from Mc Master Carr for my Focus set up. You say it won't hold up. Are you saying 500 Deg. F isn't good enough, or is there some other issue that causes it not to hold up ?[
]
I was just getting ready to order some teflon tubing from Mc Master Carr for my Focus set up. You say it won't hold up. Are you saying 500 Deg. F isn't good enough, or is there some other issue that causes it not to hold up ?[
]
03-22-2010 | 07:37 PM
#656
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: Gungadin
Matt,
I was just getting ready to order some teflon tubing from Mc Master Carr for my Focus set up. You say it won't hold up. Are you saying 500 Deg. F isn't good enough, or is there some other issue that causes it not to hold up ?[]
Matt,
I was just getting ready to order some teflon tubing from Mc Master Carr for my Focus set up. You say it won't hold up. Are you saying 500 Deg. F isn't good enough, or is there some other issue that causes it not to hold up ?[
]
Teflon PTFE has a continuous service temp rating of 550F. It will work fine if you use the material directly over the pipe stem and header. But if you use it inside a silicone coupler for example as a spacer, then gasoline exhaust and exhaust from 4 strokes is hot enough to damage it. You see, the silicone will act as insulator and keep the material from getting cooled enough.
Frankly when I melted the PTFE in my set up it actually surprised me since I didn't expect exhaust temp from the 4 stroke to be hotter than 550. But it is. Exhaust temp from gasoline engine is also hotter than 550F. Teflon PTFE will "melt" at around 625F. It doesn't melt in the conventional plastic sense. It doesn't get runny, it just gets soft and gummy and easily conformable. It also expands about 20%, so if it's retained inside silicone rubber, the expanded shape has no place to go so it buckles, blocking off the exhaust port
Matt
03-22-2010 | 07:49 PM
#658
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
Matt, got it all re-taped this morning.
Also got an accurate measure of the coupler gap for the aluminum spacer, and it is exactly one inch. For those using the Macs header and ES 30G, that makes it easy to figure out for the 33-1/2'' distance plug-to-pipe-end (body of the pipe, not the stinger).
Will get a chance to fly again Thursday and am expecting good things. It has been a bit frustrating at times, but thus goes the learning curve, especially when taking on several new twists at once. All that much better when everything is sorted out.
The plane has a bit of a pull to the canopy on downlines (w/throttle at idle) and I am thinking of taking a little incidence out of the wings... one turn of the adjusters to start out. The CG seems to me to be perfect.
Matt, got it all re-taped this morning.
Also got an accurate measure of the coupler gap for the aluminum spacer, and it is exactly one inch. For those using the Macs header and ES 30G, that makes it easy to figure out for the 33-1/2'' distance plug-to-pipe-end (body of the pipe, not the stinger).
Will get a chance to fly again Thursday and am expecting good things. It has been a bit frustrating at times, but thus goes the learning curve, especially when taking on several new twists at once. All that much better when everything is sorted out.
The plane has a bit of a pull to the canopy on downlines (w/throttle at idle) and I am thinking of taking a little incidence out of the wings... one turn of the adjusters to start out. The CG seems to me to be perfect.
How about the vertical up line? And knife edge flight? Does it push or pull or both? You may need to make a slight CG adjustment forward. Reducing wing incidence may not produce the desired result and may change other flight characteristics particularly in knife edge. Let's work these out one by one. We can discuss this through PMs
Matt
BTW- Ed found that ACP carries the perfect size carbon braid tube for laminating carbon/wood composites. The 1" size is about perfect. We built an 18x12 for him last night and it went together particularly easily. Just some small amount of flash and very little trimming needed in the finished product. We laminated the whole prop including the hub for extra safety margin. I'll post pics when I get it out of the vacuum bag
03-22-2010 | 08:02 PM
#659
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: Gungadin
OK, so if I connect the header to the pipe with Mc Master Carr teflon tubing and only teflon tubing, it should work fine then, correct ?
OK, so if I connect the header to the pipe with Mc Master Carr teflon tubing and only teflon tubing, it should work fine then, correct ?
Heat the teflon carefully with a torch until it becomes clear then quickly place it over the pipe and header stems. Once it cools it shrinks nicely in place. Put a spring clamp directly over the barbed area. Be very very careful heating the teflon...work the tube around the very low flame until it starts to become clear then remove it and see what it does. It should need a little more heat to become fully clear. Don't overheat it and definitely do not scorch it or burn it. The fumes are not good for you
03-22-2010 | 09:34 PM
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From: Ossining,
NY
RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
Bob,
How about the vertical up line? And knife edge flight? Does it push or pull or both? You may need to make a slight CG adjustment forward. Reducing wing incidence may not produce the desired result and may change other flight characteristics particularly in knife edge. Let's work these out one by one. We can discuss this through PMs
Matt
BTW- Ed found that ACP carries the perfect size carbon braid tube for laminating carbon/wood composites. The 1" size is about perfect. We built an 18x12 for him last night and it went together particularly easily. Just some small amount of flash and very little trimming needed in the finished product. We laminated the whole prop including the hub for extra safety margin. I'll post pics when I get it out of the vacuum bag
How about the vertical up line? And knife edge flight? Does it push or pull or both? You may need to make a slight CG adjustment forward. Reducing wing incidence may not produce the desired result and may change other flight characteristics particularly in knife edge. Let's work these out one by one. We can discuss this through PMs
Matt
BTW- Ed found that ACP carries the perfect size carbon braid tube for laminating carbon/wood composites. The 1" size is about perfect. We built an 18x12 for him last night and it went together particularly easily. Just some small amount of flash and very little trimming needed in the finished product. We laminated the whole prop including the hub for extra safety margin. I'll post pics when I get it out of the vacuum bag
Good to hear that about the props and how you guys keep making it simpler to fashion one. Actually I had been giving some thought to the failures I have seen (2 or 3, with IMAC planes) with wood props and it seems they break at the base of the blade near the hub. Glad to hear that your CF sock now covers that area. How are the props in your original batch holding up?
03-22-2010 | 10:56 PM
#662
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
Matt, before I change any control surfaces I will fly it in calm conditions to see what it's really doing. Was flying last Saturday in a dead crosswind and quartering crosswind of 10-12 mph from behind, so not a good situation for evaluating anything.
Good to hear that about the props and how you guys keep making it simpler to fashion one. Actually I had been giving some thought to the failures I have seen (2 or 3, with IMAC planes) with wood props and it seems they break at the base of the blade near the hub. Glad to hear that your CF sock now covers that area. How are the props in your original batch holding up?
Matt, before I change any control surfaces I will fly it in calm conditions to see what it's really doing. Was flying last Saturday in a dead crosswind and quartering crosswind of 10-12 mph from behind, so not a good situation for evaluating anything.
Good to hear that about the props and how you guys keep making it simpler to fashion one. Actually I had been giving some thought to the failures I have seen (2 or 3, with IMAC planes) with wood props and it seems they break at the base of the blade near the hub. Glad to hear that your CF sock now covers that area. How are the props in your original batch holding up?
The hub area is probably a little weaker than it should be. And since these are electric types with the reduced thickness at the hub, it could be even more so.
The first step is to place a short length of carbon sock over the center section, extending about 1/2" to the blade area. Then the full length piece covers averything
Here is a photo
03-22-2010 | 11:10 PM
#663
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
How are the props in your original batch holding up?
How are the props in your original batch holding up?
It shucked a blade during one of the misfiring runs I made on the SAP. When the engine misfired at full revs, one blade snapped at the hub.
The other two,the 19x10 and the 18x12 are fine but I have not run them all that much. These props must be trusted for 100s of flights. The weight penalty is only a few more grams and the technique is straight forward so why not laminate the whole prop? It's a stressed skin that results in a superior product. This is the way I will make them from now on
Matt
03-23-2010 | 06:37 AM
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From: Ossining,
NY
RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
These props must be trusted for 100s of flights. The weight penalty is only a few more grams and the technique is straight forward so why not laminate the whole prop? It's a stressed skin that results in a superior product. This is the way I will make them from now on
I was looking around Mejzlik's website and saw that they have props in the 18x10 and 17x12 neighborhood, but I didn't see any weights and I don't know if the blades are appropriate for pattern.
03-23-2010 | 09:34 AM
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From: Tavares,
FL
RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
Here are the photos of my work in progress. Lots on work still to do. I still need to reinforce the boxmount connections with small dowels or screws, fuel proofing, throttle and choke controls, lengthening the pipe tunnel and reshaping the formers, fuel plumbing,andfixing out of square wing tube. Yep, it's off almost a 1/2 cm from side to side measured at the ends of the wing tube. Thatputsthe adjustment at about 3mm for each end. Does anyone know a good way to loosen up the glue at the wing tube brackets inside the fuselage?Would heat do it? Obviously with the ARC version the covering isn't an issue at least notyet.
I decided to leave the box extending through the former inside the fuselage. I think this will make a good place to mount the ignition components. Besides, if i don't like it or don't use it, I can cut it out later.
Any suggestions are welcome.
I decided to leave the box extending through the former inside the fuselage. I think this will make a good place to mount the ignition components. Besides, if i don't like it or don't use it, I can cut it out later.
Any suggestions are welcome.
03-23-2010 | 01:44 PM
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From: Ossining,
NY
RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
FlyEng,
VERY nice looking work.
Yes, the Focus wing tube guides...[:@] I had the same issue with both the Focus Sport and the Focus II, and handled it the same way.
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9340139]Here[/link] is a link to a brief description and photos of how I did it with the Focus Sport, and I used the identical trick with the Focus II. Both are holding up well with no issues. There are other ways to do it - most involving more work and perhaps more aesthetically pleasing carpentry - but this works and is quick, and you can eyeball it with the wing tube in place and cross-check to your heart's content before committing to glue.
Also, unless yours is lot farther off than mine were, you only need do one side of the wing tube guide. It's okay if the fuse side flexes a smidge.
EDIT: Sorry umm... actually not much of a description there, but basically I think the pictures suggest how it's done. In order to mark the "box" to cut around the wing tube guide, simply stick a T-pin from the inside of the fuse to mark where the edges of the round reinforcing ply ring are, and then use a fine-tipped Sharpie to mark the box on the outside of the fuse and cut it with very sharp #11 blades. Cut a sliver from the top or bottom of the box cut-out in the fuse, depending upon whether your tube needs to be moved up or down to straighten it.
VERY nice looking work.
Yes, the Focus wing tube guides...[:@] I had the same issue with both the Focus Sport and the Focus II, and handled it the same way.
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9340139]Here[/link] is a link to a brief description and photos of how I did it with the Focus Sport, and I used the identical trick with the Focus II. Both are holding up well with no issues. There are other ways to do it - most involving more work and perhaps more aesthetically pleasing carpentry - but this works and is quick, and you can eyeball it with the wing tube in place and cross-check to your heart's content before committing to glue.
Also, unless yours is lot farther off than mine were, you only need do one side of the wing tube guide. It's okay if the fuse side flexes a smidge.
EDIT: Sorry umm... actually not much of a description there, but basically I think the pictures suggest how it's done. In order to mark the "box" to cut around the wing tube guide, simply stick a T-pin from the inside of the fuse to mark where the edges of the round reinforcing ply ring are, and then use a fine-tipped Sharpie to mark the box on the outside of the fuse and cut it with very sharp #11 blades. Cut a sliver from the top or bottom of the box cut-out in the fuse, depending upon whether your tube needs to be moved up or down to straighten it.
03-23-2010 | 04:23 PM
#667
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
Happy to hear that. They will still weigh less than 60 grams I would imagine.
I was looking around Mejzlik's website and saw that they have props in the 18x10 and 17x12 neighborhood, but I didn't see any weights and I don't know if the blades are appropriate for pattern.
These props must be trusted for 100s of flights. The weight penalty is only a few more grams and the technique is straight forward so why not laminate the whole prop? It's a stressed skin that results in a superior product. This is the way I will make them from now on
I was looking around Mejzlik's website and saw that they have props in the 18x10 and 17x12 neighborhood, but I didn't see any weights and I don't know if the blades are appropriate for pattern.
The first one we built fully clothed if you will, weighed in at around 64 grams before any finish work. Expect a couple grams of flash to be removed and some sanding/smoothing loss. Once sprayed with clear chances are it will return back to the 64 gram weight give or take.
The weight will vary a bit because of the weight variation in the original wood prop. These are accurately machined but the wood density is a variable...
Still, I'll take 64 grams over 125 grams all day long
The Mejliks tend to have fat blades in this size range which robs power.
Matt
03-23-2010 | 04:24 PM
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: Gungadin
Matt, once again, thank you for your expertise and experience. When you talk, I listen. Thank you sir.
Matt, once again, thank you for your expertise and experience. When you talk, I listen. Thank you sir.
03-24-2010 | 07:15 AM
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From: Ossining,
NY
RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
Nose ring
OK, here is mine, such as it is.
It is probably a bit bulkier and uses more material than necessary, bit I figure it is always easier to remove excess than to have to go back in and beef it up.
The nose ring itself is made of 4 sheets of 1/32" birch ply laminated together to make a 1/8" 12-ply - very rigid. As can be seen, I didn't line the inside of the ring with anything, just tried to get a very close fit between the hole and the crankcase so that there is no slop.
I got in 4 long flights last Saturday and it held up fine, with sound levels the same as before and no knocking or other unusual noises. The spinner moved around very little before, but now there is virtually zero movement. The only adverse effect is that one of the cowl screws loosened a bit.
The cowl was weighed before and after the modification and the difference was 26.5 grams. After the various mods I've done with the coupler, canopy, nose ring and fuel tank, the plane's current AUW is 10lb 11.7oz. I put in a 16-oz tank but I think I will go back to the 12-oz tank eventually.
OK, here is mine, such as it is.
It is probably a bit bulkier and uses more material than necessary, bit I figure it is always easier to remove excess than to have to go back in and beef it up.
The nose ring itself is made of 4 sheets of 1/32" birch ply laminated together to make a 1/8" 12-ply - very rigid. As can be seen, I didn't line the inside of the ring with anything, just tried to get a very close fit between the hole and the crankcase so that there is no slop.
I got in 4 long flights last Saturday and it held up fine, with sound levels the same as before and no knocking or other unusual noises. The spinner moved around very little before, but now there is virtually zero movement. The only adverse effect is that one of the cowl screws loosened a bit.
The cowl was weighed before and after the modification and the difference was 26.5 grams. After the various mods I've done with the coupler, canopy, nose ring and fuel tank, the plane's current AUW is 10lb 11.7oz. I put in a 16-oz tank but I think I will go back to the 12-oz tank eventually.
03-24-2010 | 07:24 AM
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From: Bedford,
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
Nicely done! If you want to recover some of the additional mass, you could cut off the chunk of aluminum on the carb that is normally used for the idle screw, and 1/2 of the steel throttle plate that is near there as well.
03-24-2010 | 07:46 AM
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From: Ossining,
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
Thanks, Gary.
I am interested to see what other guys come up with. This will do for now, but I am hoping to be able to retrofit the Syssa nose ring (design suggested to Todd by Matt) when they become available. That's why I made the attachment "ears" inside the cowl somewhat larger than necessary.
I am interested to see what other guys come up with. This will do for now, but I am hoping to be able to retrofit the Syssa nose ring (design suggested to Todd by Matt) when they become available. That's why I made the attachment "ears" inside the cowl somewhat larger than necessary.
03-24-2010 | 09:19 AM
#672
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
Nose ring
OK, here is mine, such as it is.
It is probably a bit bulkier and uses more material than necessary, bit I figure it is always easier to remove excess than to have to go back in and beef it up.
The nose ring itself is made of 4 sheets of 1/32'' birch ply laminated together to make a 1/8'' 12-ply - very rigid. As can be seen, I didn't line the inside of the ring with anything, just tried to get a very close fit between the hole and the crankcase so that there is no slop.
I got in 4 long flights last Saturday and it held up fine, with sound levels the same as before and no knocking or other unusual noises. The spinner moved around very little before, but now there is virtually zero movement. The only adverse effect is that one of the cowl screws loosened a bit.
The cowl was weighed before and after the modification and the difference was 26.5 grams. After the various mods I've done with the coupler, canopy, nose ring and fuel tank, the plane's current AUW is 10lb 11.7oz. I put in a 16-oz tank but I think I will go back to the 12-oz tank eventually.
Nose ring
OK, here is mine, such as it is.
It is probably a bit bulkier and uses more material than necessary, bit I figure it is always easier to remove excess than to have to go back in and beef it up.
The nose ring itself is made of 4 sheets of 1/32'' birch ply laminated together to make a 1/8'' 12-ply - very rigid. As can be seen, I didn't line the inside of the ring with anything, just tried to get a very close fit between the hole and the crankcase so that there is no slop.
I got in 4 long flights last Saturday and it held up fine, with sound levels the same as before and no knocking or other unusual noises. The spinner moved around very little before, but now there is virtually zero movement. The only adverse effect is that one of the cowl screws loosened a bit.
The cowl was weighed before and after the modification and the difference was 26.5 grams. After the various mods I've done with the coupler, canopy, nose ring and fuel tank, the plane's current AUW is 10lb 11.7oz. I put in a 16-oz tank but I think I will go back to the 12-oz tank eventually.
Nice job... See how it behaves over the next few flights and see if you need a rubber lining. You may slit a length of neoprene or soft nitrile tubing and line the inside of the hole...ca in place. McMaster Carr has good and soft nitrile tubing with about 1/32" wall.
I will make mine entirely from soft neoprene sheet, as I have done for many years on glow stuff
Ed mentioned that Todd told him he is working on an ally nose ring that will be retrofitted. No idea as to availability
Matt
03-24-2010 | 12:02 PM
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From: Ossining,
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
I will make mine entirely from soft neoprene sheet, as I have done for many years on glow stuff
03-25-2010 | 03:14 PM
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RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
Had a most excellent couple of hours at the field today, with everything clicking and nothing to work on when I got home. Pipe coupler held tight, and no loss of power. Still a little peaky midrange on throttle, but that is also getting better and overall it is fairly linear.
Got in 4 flights over 11 minutes each, and the engine pulled well all the way through, unlimited vertical with no sagging, pulling through vertical rolling maneuvers without losing steam.
Finally, I can start working on just flying some sequences without worrying about the plane. Everyone was impressed with how well the engine pulled and how quiet it is with the pipe. I'm staying with the 18x10 for a while longer. Just finished gallon #2.
Got in 4 flights over 11 minutes each, and the engine pulled well all the way through, unlimited vertical with no sagging, pulling through vertical rolling maneuvers without losing steam.
Finally, I can start working on just flying some sequences without worrying about the plane. Everyone was impressed with how well the engine pulled and how quiet it is with the pipe. I'm staying with the 18x10 for a while longer. Just finished gallon #2.
03-25-2010 | 07:26 PM
#675
Thread Starter
Senior Member
RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
Had a most excellent couple of hours at the field today, with everything clicking and nothing to work on when I got home. Pipe coupler held tight, and no loss of power. Still a little peaky midrange on throttle, but that is also getting better and overall it is fairly linear.
Got in 4 flights over 11 minutes each, and the engine pulled well all the way through, unlimited vertical with no sagging, pulling through vertical rolling maneuvers without losing steam.
Finally, I can start working on just flying some sequences without worrying about the plane. Everyone was impressed with how well the engine pulled and how quiet it is with the pipe. I'm staying with the 18x10 for a while longer. Just finished gallon #2.
Had a most excellent couple of hours at the field today, with everything clicking and nothing to work on when I got home. Pipe coupler held tight, and no loss of power. Still a little peaky midrange on throttle, but that is also getting better and overall it is fairly linear.
Got in 4 flights over 11 minutes each, and the engine pulled well all the way through, unlimited vertical with no sagging, pulling through vertical rolling maneuvers without losing steam.
Finally, I can start working on just flying some sequences without worrying about the plane. Everyone was impressed with how well the engine pulled and how quiet it is with the pipe. I'm staying with the 18x10 for a while longer. Just finished gallon #2.
You officially have more run time than Ed and me combined. LOL. The engine should be getting close to full break in.
BTW- is that the 18x10 sport prop? The one that starts wide and ends very narrow? Years ago that prop was recommended for the Moki 180.
The 18.1x10 pattern prop, if you have one, will work very nicely too
Matt
