Still deciding on what glue to use for the wing skins. Probably Gorilla glue, which as I understand it is similar to Pro Bond.

Glad to hear you got out to fly your Temptress. Really amazing the amount of enjoyment that one model has provided. As much as I disparage the construction of the Focus, the design is basically pretty good and I have learned a lot from it.

I got in 5 flights with the hard-mounted SAP. Noise was a little higher but not much. I'll check with the Radio Shack sound meter some time this fall.

My ears are still ringing from that 32x10 Biela prop. Next to the exhaust of an SR-71 on afterburners, it's the best HP to noise converter I've seen.

Ha ha...Man that was really loud. At 100 foot height fly by at the edge of the runway, it hurt the ears

No way that was a 10 pitch no matter what the prop sez. That plane was crawling. A 32x5 maybe. Either that or the guys that make Biela don't have much of a clue

I am still shopping for my second pattern plane to begin attending some contests next season. Their is a Black Magic V2.2 for sale just a couple of hours from me and I am wondering if the Syssa will haul it around. And, could it be installed in it without a major rekit?

It depends on the weight.

If the plane is 10 1/2 lbs or less, you will be in good shape for any maneuver. If it's a pachyderm, 11-13 lbs, then you will be okay for Sprtsman and Intermediate and possibly Advanced if well skilled.

If I recall Archie's BM, I think you have good room up front. The engine is about the size of an OS 160 except it needs to have about 1 1/2" behind the exhaust flange to acommodate the carb. I'm sure we have actual dimensions needed early in the thread.

The last two flying sessions have been unsurpassed in the starting and running of the SAP180.

Fisrt run of the day, choke closed, full throttle, IBEC off, rocking prop 25 times TDC to BDC. Stop rocking, open choke, still full throttle, flip prop twice. Throttle to idle, IBEC on, one flip start.

After intial run of the day, IBEC off, full trhottle, flip prop twice, close to idle, IBEC on, one flip start.

TWEEEET!!!

Tele,

Sorry I didn't notice this before. The Syssa should haul the 2.2 around with no problems. The V2.2 is a little smaller and less draggy, so it should easily be pulled around by the Syssa. An OS 1.60 on a 2.2 is a rocketship, and the Syssa should be about the same,

Arch

I don't even need to to that with my Syssa, I just turn on the ignition and flip it once to be off and running. For my first gasser, it outstanding!

FB

This is usually the case with mine, unless there has been about 45 minutes or more between flights, in which case I sometimes have to give it a bit of choke.

Are you running it in a Pattern plane with tuned pipe?

New Syssa product!!

Nice for the wood props and the 3D guys. Don't think I'll be drilling an APC prop anytime soon! I'm using a DB aluminum spinner and have not had any problems with it loosening during approx 150 flights.

Some slight changes in the Products page layout. Other new things are the digital tach and the Vess 18.5x5.5 - I'll bet that puppy really spools up! Probably over 9k rpm with a Pitts muffler.

I'm finally thinking about cutting down and CF-ing one of those Xoar E-props, getting as close as possible to the 15.5x12W shape as possible.[sm=wink_smile.gif]

That should prove much more interesting than anything commercially available. Not that you need it but I would bet that your engine will pick up a few Rs

Talking Rs, the cutdown 17x12 apc (is now 16.5x12) was tached last Saturday at 8450-8500 on the ground. Temp was around 65F and RH around 50%. Cooler weather always means more ponies. I made no changes to mixture settings

Either my second one is finally broke in or the cooler temperatures or both.  My motor came alive! Definitely more ponies.

I've been gradually leaning out the low end and mine is getting close to the sweet spot. This is #2 and it now has 53 flights on it. Have not even tached it yet... just listening for the midrange and the throttle-up, and no sagging on verticals. I haven't yet flown it in cool weather. It was very peppy already in warm weather.

If I do the prop mod I'll definitely check the revs first so I'll have a baseline for comparison.

I maidened my first one at 10 degF. The power was in-freakin'-sane!

Engines luv-luv-luv that cool, dense air!!

MTK - I need your input!

How do you get the choke fully closed? Sure I can pull it closed, but without pressing my finger on the plate I can never get a good enough seal to draw fuel. I always seen to have a 1/16" of an inch gap and that is all it takes to stop the fuel draw when I rock the prop.

I am really struggling to get this engine to start.

The choke arm to push rod alignment is somewhat sensitive. Is the push rod properly aligned? Ideally, in an inverted engine set-up, you want to push rod to hang straight down.

If it's off a 3/8" fore or aft, towards the firewall or away from the firewall in other words, it may cause enough bind to cause incomplete closing of the slide baffle. A misaligned pushrod can cause lifting of the baffle off the carb body. Or if misaligned sideways, pulling on the pushrod may not allow full mechanical movement of the arm to the stop.

Are you opening the throttle to full when choking?

Two or three of us have had some issues with original carbs not drawing enough gas to even pop. On my original carb I had to resort to taking the plug out and squirting gas into the cylinder. A quick call to Todd fixed that problem; he replaced the unit.

Ed also let me use his hi tork starter in the very early runs before I knew how to run the engine. That worked great too. But once I figured out what to do and what to expect, reliability has been unsurpassed

Some of the carbs may not be as clean as needed from the Walbro factory. Some guys have been successful by taking the carb apart, carfeully cleaning everything and reassembling the unit. That does the trick. I suggest you contact Todd Syssa and explain the problem. I'm sure it's a simple fix

MattK,

Thanks for your input it is very helpful. I have tried most of your suggestions and returned the engine once for warranty service. The choke plate remains too loose to be reliable for me. I just cannot get this engine to choke and draw fuel without my finger pressing the choke plate closed.

I have two DA's that start and run great, so I know something about the subject. But I am about to give up on Syssa and ask for a refund.

PM me if one of you wants a good deal on a never started Syssa 180 plus accessories.

It seems like a really nice engine, but maybe just not for me.

What accessories are you including?

And how much do you want for it?

How Much do you want for the engine

Goron

How Much do you want for the engine

Gordon in Sunny Milwaukee Today

Todd has been first class in standing behind his product. I can only wish others in this hobby were as good.

One note - my Syssa was in an EF 78" Extra which means the carb is partially behind the firewall. That makes everything related to the carb way more complex. I will never buy another plane unless the entire engine can be in front of the firewall.

That will happen if you leave the firewall as is, pretty much across the board in any ARF.

In the thread I started on that subject, I moved the firewall avoiding that same situation. Far easier to do that than to have to play with a blind set-up of the carb. FWIW to you, but sounds like a bit late to do you any good

Smart move MTK, but remember when I bought my EF 78" Extra they advertised the firewall to spinner distance as 6.25". The correction from EF came a week after mine arrived and I should have moved it back instead of fighting it.

I sold the EF Extra today and will go back to AW. I had a couple of other QC issues with the EF and the new AW 30cc Edge will be a winner like all my other AW stuff.

BTW...firewall to spinner on the new AW Edge is 6.5" like it should be designed.