Well Derek, considering that I have a garage full of examples of a strikingly similar color scheme... I think an argument could be made that I should benefit from some of those royalties...

Just kidding, looks good and I'm looking forward to seeing you fly "yours".

Tom M

One of the challenge of installing two ele servo on the stabs is to snake the extension leads through the fuse. Even though, the factory has pre-installed a paper tunnel inside the fuse for the leads, but the inside diameter is always so narrow making it a time consuming job. Hopefully, in the future, the factory will leave a string inside the paper tunnel for us to use as a lead line for the extension cords.

Rudder cable installation is pretty straight forward, and Jet Legend did provide us with cables. However, I have been using the IM rudder cable for the past two years with good results, it's a bit easier to set up than the Du-Bro 4/40 kit. Again, factory has pre-installed two ny rod inside the fuse for the cable, making installation a snap.

Now that ele & rud is done, time to move on to the engine, header, pipe & cdi installation.

Hi

On Jet Legend website there is this picture of Neptuno with 2 pieces wings.
Is it for glow engine or electric motor ?
Claude

That would be the electric version currently under final testing.

Wiring are pretty much done. Nothing really tough, just needed to plan ahead of time on placement of each wire. I used to install the rx on/ off switch on the outside of the fuselage. However, ever since I accidentally turn the sliding switch on during transportation a few years ago, I have since placed the switch inside the fuse with an IM switch extension.

Next step is the tank installation. For some reason, Jet Legend only installed two sets of velcro strips for securing the tank, but decided not to have any catch/ blocking in front of the tank to prevent it from sliding forward. Originally, I was thinking of either gluing two pieces of velcro – male & female – on the bottom of the tank. Or, gluing a piece of light ply in front of the tank to prevent it from sliding. However, my buddy – Don Atwood – custom designed a piece of wood block for me on his home made CNC machine which enables me to have a professionally look installation. Thanks again Don.

Even though, I have been using the YS engine mount for quite some time, however, I do not have any experience on using the mount with a YS nose ring & mount spacer. I have always used a customized bracket for attaching the mount to the firewall, and also some after market nose rings. These spacers are specially designed for the rail/ platform type construction in the engine compartment. Since I have had no prior experience on the set up, I decided to use the spacers supplied by Jet Legend. Later on, I may switch to the YS brand to find out whether there are any differences in terms of noise & vibration.

I first installed the front spacer with the nose ring, and align it with the nose of the plane. Then, follow by the two in the back before dropping the engine onto the spacer. It took a bit of an adjustment at first to get the spinner back plate to align with the nose, since you have four separate adjustment point. However, once you've get used to it, it's a very simple process. In addition, it is also very simple to change the thrust line. After the initial installation, I have noticed a very slight up thrust, and cured it by using washers to shim both sides of the nose ring. Jet Legend has also supplied us with throttle cable. However, I'm sticking to my Nishioka one.

Plumbing is almost done. Instead of using all fuel lines for both carrying & overflowing fuel, I have been using light weight aluminum tubing for the past few years with good results. Next step is to hook up the fuel lines in the engine compartment with fuel dot/ T, filter, check valve & angled outlets. After installing a wooden platform to house the cdi unit, I will install the landing gear and pants. My last step will be to tackle the release mechanism on the bellypan, which even though is not necessary, but will give me much satisfaction if I can pull it off.

More to follow ...

Well, one step closer to completion.

For the header & pipe, I wasn't quite able to get them to line up properly at first. I've tried all different combinations – 822 & 823 header with 29 & 37 mm Nishioka pipe mount. Finally, I settled on the 822 header with the 37 mm mount. However, I still have to prop the pipe mount with two pieces of 1/8 wood block to get the correct angle. If you install the header & pipe correctly, you will not see any oil residue on the pipe deck and the bellypan, unless the engine is not tuned correctly. In addition, the pipe's O ring will last much longer. I have had planes for over 200 flights with the same O ring.

Plumbing & landing gear is also done, I'm going to use the supplied gear set for awhile. However, I may switch to a wider canard gear set on a later date.

One of the thing that we always have to pay attention to other than AUW – all up weight – is meeting the noise requirement. Since we're using props with longer diameter & higher pitch, tip noise is also higher. It is easier to manage noise on an all wood plane, but much tougher on a composite design, composite tends to magnify sound/ vibration. Therefore, we go the extra mile to lower the noise level by – using a good engine mount, balance the prop, secure all leads, even go as far as stuffing the spinner cone. As for glow, most of us uses a pipe stinger extension. I've been using an extension with a diffuser from Japan on the past two years with good results. However, before this year's WC, I have tried a new gadget from Japan – an exhaust tip restrictor that dampens the tone of the exhaust. Originally, I thought it was another gimmick from the Japanese. However, after installation, you could tell the exhaust tone is indeed mellower – both on the ground & in the air.

The set comes with an aluminum tip for installation onto the end of the stinger, and it has 4 openings with different diameters. After attaching the tip, you install the teflon extension the normal way. It probably cuts the top rpm by about 100 to 150, but should help passing sound a bit easier.

Final few steps is to install the cdi unit mount, enlarge the spinner cone to accommodate the prop & to determine whether to change the bellypan's release mechanism. It should only takes a few more evenings, I hope. However, with me, that can turn into weeks …

Don't tell Alex, but here he is coming in to land in Hong Kong this weekend [8D]

The last few steps of installation are pretty straight forward but time consuming.

The first thing is to install a platform for the cdi box. Normally, I would install the platform further forward closer to the back of the firewall, for easy connection between the two short sensor wire. However, because of a cross brace limiting access to the bulkhead area, I had to install the platform right in front of the tank. In addition, a short extension wire has to be added between the male & the female plug.

Since I do not like messy wiring, the wire keeper comes in handy. Not only does it make installation looks nice & neat, it also prevent the wires from chafing caused by bouncing around inside the fuse.

Because of using high pitch prop with thick/ wide hub, usually in the 11 to 13 range, most of the spinner will not be able to accommodate such configuration without some kind of modification. Even though, the plastic spinner can be enlarged fairly easy, but you have to be careful not to make the opening too big. I first scribe the outline with a pencil, score it with a tile cutter to a rough shape. Then, finish it with a sanding and polishing tool, the whole process usually takes about half an hour. Since I have recently changed piston ring and bearings on this particular engine, I will be using a 17.7x11.7 prop for the first 20 to 30 flights. Then, switch to a 18x12 wpn, before settling on the 18.5x12 wpn, all with fairly thick and wide hub.

As mentioned before, I was not too thrill on how the bellypan's mounting system works, and have been thinking of switching it with the Nishioka quick release system. Presently, the bellypan uses two fuel dot size spring loaded type release button. After you've inserted the button onto the side of the bellypan, you twist the knob and lock the bellypan into place. Since this is a metal to metal connection, I will not be surprise that the connecting pin will eventually be worn out causing the bellypan to separate from the fuse in mid flight. Unfortunately, it will take a lot of work for the Nishioka conversion, because of the contact points between the fuse and the bellypan. Therefore, after some thorough brain storming between myself and my chief engineer – Prof. Don Atwood – we have settled on converting it to a socket head screw and blind nut combination for the initial test flight. However, I may still change it in the near future.

Well, here's the finished product, final AUW is exactly at 4,900 kg. That's with two ele servos on the stabs with two long extensions, it will definitely be lighter with the single servo with one push rod.

It took me a total of three weeks to complete the installation, my all time best actually. However, for someone who is not a procrastinator like myself, he or she can easily finish the job in a week to ten days. Up till now, my impression of the plane is very favorable. Jet Legend makes installation easy with a well thought out design. Even though, there are a few things that needs to be improved on, but they are pretty minor. In general, the whole installation process was very enjoyable.

Since I am expecting guests for the upcoming holidays, follow by working at the AMA convention in Ontario next month, test flight has to be postponed until the end of January. However, I'm absolutely looking forward to test flight, and will report again soon.

Happy Holidays to all.

Sorry, I don't understand why the thumbnails ended up so big.

To show off the plane!!! If anyone is interested in buying the kit please PM me for details.

I had a chance to examine Adrian's Neptuno today and must say it is a very nice 'kit'. The workmanship is good, parts fit well fit and the paint is done well. I will be curious to see how it flies.

Woodie

Neptuno sighting at the AMA convention's NSRCA booth, Ontario CA

Hello to All
I think there is a problem with weight. In my opinion, when the Kit is under 2,300.00 Gramm, there is no Problem to build under 5 Kg. But the plane ist over 2.600 gr. Is this not a problem for Electric powerd. What is your opinion.
SR
andreas

Hi Andreas,

Are you planning on getting an electric Neptuno? If in the affirmative, you may want to post your question again on the electric pattern plane forum. The US importer - Derek Koopowitz - is currently building the electric version. Here is the URL - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9425255/tm.htm

Since mine is the glow version - with different construction - it is heavier than the electric one. However, even with the cdi unit and two elevator servos, it still came in under 5 kg. According to Derek's calculation, AUW for his e-Nep should be around 4,860 g.

Hope this helps.

Adrian

Hello
Thanks for the tip.
Yes, I want to buy an Electric Version. I spoke with the dealer from Germany. He told me that there is no problem to get a plane to Europe. Now I look for more informationen about this plane
SR
andreas

I finished my Neptuno GP this past weekend and flew it yesterday for the 1st time. What a great flying plane!! It was rock solid and flew like it was on rails... I flew 3 simple flights and next time I'll start the trimming process. It won't need much though - I put in 2 % down mix with low throttle for the down lines and the up lines were pretty solid and straight. Right KE was perfect and left needs some slight up with left aileron. I still need to install the CDI so that will add some nose weight... overall weight now is 4.92kg with the CDI and 2 batteries/switches.

Hi Derek,

Finally ready ! ;-) Looks very good...

After you installed the CDI you will find that it responses well on a forward CG.

I fly it with only one battery for both receiver and CDI in the front, not the normal position. This increases the stability a lot without making the tail less effective for the rolling loops and such.

One of the reasons I like this plane so much is the stability compared to some other models I flew. It makes me concentrate on the schedules and geometry more than fighting the plane.

Regards

Roald

Thanks Roald. As soon as I get home (tomorrow night) I'll put the CDI in... and I'll move my batteries up front as well just to see what happens. It flies really well now so I'm curious to see what happens...

Can someone advice me on where to find a dealer for The Oxai Zeque and the MIDREX?

the Zeque is no longer being produced by Oxai

contact Sam Johnson [email protected]for another oxai models.

Neptuno is an awesome model as well.</p>

A few pilots from Nor Cal braved the cold weather - by our standard anyway - for a Neptuno introduction party at the Morgan Hill flying site this morning. Derek Koopowitz's glow & E version, accompanied by my 170 cdi version were on display. Derek was even gracious enough to allow any interested party - except yous truly - to test flown his e machine. When asked why I was not allow to fly his plane, Derek cited some compatibility issue between mode 1 & 2. And I thought these computer radio will fly the plane automatically by just turning on the switch, guess not ...

Anyway, those who took part in the test flight was quite impress with the plane's capability.

Adrian

Looks great Adrian! Wish I could have been there. I got in just past midnight and almost got a room before the drive home... with the goal of stopping by and harassing you guys, but in the end I just wanted to get home. Looks like a good turn out, planes really do look great. Looking forward to seeing them in action this season...

Oh and Andrian... that's not the reason Derek wouldn't let you fly the airplane...

Besides, wouldn't the world stop spinning if you flew an electric pattern plane?

Hey, I do have a few foamies, Tom ...