RE: NEW QUEST
 

If you follow eric's directions on mounting the motor it is quite easy. I put the fuse in a verticle position and placed the mount with the engine attached on top, then I place the cowl as if I were installing it over the assembly (very careful not to move the engine) line up the trim lines on the cowl with the ones on the fuse then move the engine shaft with the backplate of the spinner attached so that it all lines up. When you carefully remove the cowl the engine should be properly located.

When I did it, I was withing a 16th. of Erics measurements

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Jl,
Thanks, but that's kind of the problem. Eyesight is limited and right hand is messed up amongst other things. Laying out the correct holes for the engine mount and so forth causes a problem. Can't get my hand into small places to work [:o]. For lack of a better explanation, just consider me as another Federal project showing your tax dollar at work :D.

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Olstoney,
Too bad we don't live near each other.
We could team build them!
I'm one of the lucky ones...3 level fusion, titanium plate, paralysis all that good stuff but it all came back.
I've always been so lucky in my life.
If I was to ever write a book I would have used a title Jimmy Doolittle beat me to..."I could never be so lucky again"!
But, when the archaeologists dig me up in a thousand years and see all the plates, mended and broken bones, knocked out teeth, etc. they're going to say: "What the heck happened to this guy"?!?!?!?
Ah...the thrills and spills of youth!
JLK

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Hi Eric

In our previous conversations you noted that the placement of the canopy is very important to the planes flight characteristics. If I remember correctly you said to mount it as far forward as possible. These are my options. What do you think?

RE: NEW QUEST
 

I am sorry I uploaded twice. One day I will get the hang of this computer

RE: NEW QUEST
 

That will work.

P.S. You can edit your own posts and remove any extra uploads. Click on edit and then look at the bottom left of your own post.

RE: NEW QUEST
 

This plane is really attractive to me. Pattern and Free Style. I would like to buy one.

But the site is "out of stock" and there has been no answer to an e-amail enquiry.

Does the company still sell these?

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Jack - I was able to talk with Brian earlier today - the word is that they are "on the water", where they've apparently been for some two weeks now. Expected delivery is mid April, three weeks at the most. At 180 bones, that's not a bad deal. Think I'll wait and pick one up.

RE: NEW QUEST
 

The Quest is finally finished and looks beautiful. I would like some advise on the proper procedure for breakin and running. Also, I am using a 14X10 APC prop. any other suggestions?

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Sorry, the engine is a YS110

RE: NEW QUEST
 

JPal,
We would love to see some pictures!
Thanks!
JLK

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Thanks, pics will follow soon. I have had a battery issue, just changed it and am cycling.

RE: NEW QUEST
 

I ran my YS110 today in preperation for the maiden flight. I am still in the dark with the proper adjustments. I am not familiar with the regulator or the low end adjustment. Can anyone tell me how they should be set? I would also like to know exactly what their function is and how do they effect the engines performance.

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Jpal101,

When I set up mine, I first set the high speed needle valve to slight rich position, from there, I check the high idle to full throttle transition to make sure it is smooth without either being rich or lean, if not, I will adjust the regulator 1/8 turn at a time, clockwise to lean, and counter-clockwise to richen until the transition is smooth. The idle setting is done by using the idle adjustment valve, which is located right next to the high speed needle valve, but needs flat blade screw driver to turn either clockwise to richen or counter-clockwise to lean, again 1/8 turn at a time. So far, all my YS110 seems to work well with this method.

You can also check the procedure here: [link]http://www.ysperformance.com/[/link] Once you are in, select "Instructions" to see the write up.

Good luck,

Kevin

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Thank you very much, this certainly helps

RE: NEW QUEST
 

I just got my Quest 2 and am in the process of putting it together. I have not assembled a plane before other than putting together my nexstar trainer which did not take much. I have read through all the previous posts and got a lot of great info, but I have some questions and I am sure I will have a ton more as things go together. I plan on making this a quality build and I will have to budget out a few things so this may be a slow build (also have to keep my wife happy with honey dos). I have picked up a YS 110 for the motor and I am planning on using Hitec 6975HB for servos on ailerons and elevator. I was going to use a metal gear for the rudder, but I am not sure which would be best and also what would be good for the trottle. I also was wondering if the nylon hinges are the best way to go or if I should go with an aftermarket type. The last question for now is with the fuel tank, is the stock tank OK and the instruction (which really are terrible) show the placement for the tank but I have a rib located there, so I take it that I need to cut out that cross brace on the rib and should I glue in a replace ment after the tank is in place.

Thanks
Shaun

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Rad Dog,
I used the stock hinges and sealed the gap both sides. I think it was alittle overkill but surfaces are secure and don't bind.

My plane is done but hasn't flown yet. Here's some weight and balance info:

CG is 6-5/8 back from LE at root with 2200 mah 6v battery right against the firewall. Next to it is a Hitec HS81MG throttle servo. Pull-pull rudder servo, HS5475HB, is in stock position (above wing TE) using stock pull-pull hardware. HS5645MG elevator servo aft with 4-40 SS rods and bolt-style horns/clevises. Futaba R319DPS Rx is just in front of rudder servo with switch harness, volt-magic in the cockpit. Aft end of stock tank is over the CG. HS5645MG Aileron servos also with 4-40 hardware. A bit oversized, agreed. OS120AX with stock muffler, TrueTurn 2.5 and 17-6 APC. Stock gear, no pants, considerable glass and ply reinforement in front. Antennae in nyrod-tube all the way back. Canopy full forward. No added weight. Sorry, I don't know all-up weight. Moving the elevator to the back shifts the CG about 3/4" - this will be the next change if I want to move it back.

I did not reglue the cross-piece on the bulkhead. Instead, I made longitudonal stiffeners (about 3/8x10") from 1/8 light ply, running the length of the wing saddle to the front bulkhead. Slotted the aft bulkheads with a cut-off saw to receive it and tabbed it into the side doublers. It was a convenient "rail" for drilling holes for cable ties to hold wires, tank, rx etc. and stiffens the sides of the fuse considerably when you take out the cross piece.

Has anyone applied the decals? ARe the blank sheets supposed to laminate over the individual characters once applied??

For what it's worth, I would consider reworking the belly pan in the area of the leading edge. The dowls have to be very short to allow the pan to drop in along the curvature of the wing, and engage the holes in the firewall. I think it would be better if that front corner of the pan along the wing joint was built into the wing, so the pan could slide more directly into the holes.

RE: NEW QUEST
 

You apply the blank sheet over the decal to transfer them to the blank sheet. Then apply to the surface and carefully pull back the plastic sheet leaving the letters. Sounds like a lot of trouble but they come out really nice.

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Just finished my Quest this weekend. I built mine "by the book" ... fuel tank in stock location, elevator servo aft, canopy in stock location. Put the HS 81 throttle servo up against the bulkhead rear of fuel tank (under LE), as is the SR 1200 6v battery and receiver. I have a Saito 100 on a Hyde mount. Balance at 6.5". Here's the catch.... in order to obtain the 6.5" CG, I had to add 14 oz of lead to the motormount to get a good balance. The all up wieght minus fuel is 10lbs even. That seems a little heavy for this plane. I did reinforce the forward area (fuel tank compartment) with 1/8 lite ply and triangles in the corners. I did glass the compartment with 2" 12 oz fiberglass tape, and added an 1/8 ply doubler to the LG plate. I dont think that equaled a pound and a half. The "book" details the weight as 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 lbs. Is this printed weight a fantasy or are any of you hitting the target weight? I went with the Saito because it was lighter, but I made up for it in lead. (the LG is slightly bowed under the weight,, or is this also normal?)
Haven't had a chance to fly it yet, Damn thing took a chunk out of my hand trying to start it. (I hate inverted pumped engines!) After the swelling goes down, and I can hold a transmitter a little better, I will give this pregnant bird a test flight.
On a different note.... is it just my computer, or has this site REALLLLLLLLLLy slowed down? Sometimes it takes a full five minutes for a page to load up. and there are no pictures anymore, just red X's.

Thanx....
CC

RE: NEW QUEST
 

you wont need all that weight in the nose

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Thanks jpal101 - they came out nice.

corsaircrazy - my 2200 5 cell and OS120 outweigh your Saito and 1200 pack by about 100 grams, or about 4 oz. Only other difference is my battery and throttle servo are where your tank is, and visa versa. I didn't need extra weight. (PS - site seems ok to me - check your connections!) Good luck.

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Ok, then why is this thing taking so much weight to balance? Must be realllllly critical on placement of weight. .Seems if you built it like the designer designed it, it would come in pretty close to right on. Adding almost a pound to the nose is really not a good thing. I need a couple of days to let my hand heal, so I am going to figure out how I can do this. How difficult is it to move the tank aft? Did you use the stock tank? do you have to whack away at the canopy floor and raise the tank to clear the wing? and what is that brace you were talking about? Do you mean the one aft of the wing key bulkhead?

So many questions.....

CC

RE: NEW QUEST
 

Looking at the moments - weight times distance of your components from the wing LE (rough numbers), we balance about the same but I'm 6-7 oz lighter:

Yours: [(19.5 oz (550 gram engine) + 14 oz (deadweight)) x 10"] +6*0 + 2*0 = 335 in-oz, 41.5 oz (your battery and servo have zero moment arm at the LE)

Mine: [22.9 oz (engine) x10 "] + [(10 oz (battery) + 2 oz (servo)) X 8"] = 326 in-oz, 34.9 oz

Moving the tank wasn't hard. Yes you need to cut part of the dash board and cockpit floor.

Good luck. Hope your hand gets better quick. Lousy when they bite.

RE: NEW QUEST
 

To Corsair Crazy

Check out my pics on pg10, the tank is right behind the second bulkhead, it fits perfectly wrapped in foam with no cutting. Also, I have the throttle servo and 5 cell battery and approximately 2.5oz of weight in the tank compartment. It balanced at 165mm. I flew it today for the first time and it seems a little nose heavy. I am going to leave it like that until I can get used to flying it.

RE: NEW QUEST
 

JPal101...
Any Idea what the final weight of your plane came out to?
Even if I can get rid of most of the lead in the nose, I still seem to be over the projected max weight. (10 lbs minus 14oz lead still comes out to 9lbs 2 oz... max projected weight is 8lbs 8 oz)
Is the weight range given a SWAG? I can't imagine any plane this size comming in a 7.5 lbs, RTF.
Anyone else have a FAT airplane... or is mine the only one that needs to diet?

Thanx

CC