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Is 115oz-in enough torque for a 2M rudder? I won a pair of sweet aileron servos at the meet this weekend and was thinking of [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAM5&P=0]this[/link] to match.


This pattern stuff is loads of fun by the way:D

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Joe,

For the upper classes, the more the better. I'm running around 200oz, but others are running even more than that. I don't think you'll have to worry about a knife edge loop anytime soon, so you'll be fine...

Arch

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Can any of you guys measure some of the tallest/widest parts of your plane?

I'm going to build a roof-top carrier for my Civic so I can fit a 2M plane. The idea is to make it as tight and light as possible and hopefully be able to bring the plane in and out of the house inside the case, but we'll see if that can actually happen.

Anyway I want to build it big enough so it will fit whatever 2M plane I get in the future.

I've come in second place in 2 meets this season. My goal is to practice, practice, practice with only my Venus and win the next two, justifying a nice new purchase for next season:D I'm thinking I will limit myself to a 1.40 engine, either YS or OS, and thus an appropriate plane.

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I'm having a hard time understanding stick inputs for a roll.

If you're doing an 8pt roll and are at the second pt - plane is 45 degrees from level - what are you holding (assuming a roll to the right)? I feel like this would help me understand a full roll better.

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left rudder and up elevater.. using only rudder the airplane will still fall. using only elevater the airplane will steer and fall even more. You must blend the two. hope this helps...

Brandon Landry

Team Coolpower, Team YS

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Do you guys think these springs will work in other radios besides Futaba?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAEM7&P=ML

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Joe,

It depends on the radio and the springs that are already in them. The length of the spring is the key. Contact Airtronics and ask them as the new 10SD they have out has much heavier springs in it,

Arch

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My FZ110s is burning up - do you guys think a 15x10 is too much prop for the engine?

Seemed fine for the first 6-8 gallons, turning the prop at 8700 tuned down from 9100. Giving me the same numbers but getting incredibly hot now.

Manual suggests 15x10-11 or 14x11-12.

If you're curious and want more information, it's [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8956286]here.[/link]

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It is summer now and warming up. I would take and work on the cooling. Open up the exit holes more. I"m sure it has plenty of entry air coming in, but you need at least 3 times the exit area.

At the end of a flight is it leaning out and dying?

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For the most part it has not been under a cowl, and when it is the engine head is entirely exposed out the side (mounted 135*) and the entire bottom of the cowl is open (from when I had the 120AX).

It sat for 10 days, was working fine before that. Started up and took off the other day and had no power so I landed. Was very, very hot. Tried re-tuning, etc. and just kept running really hot.

Checked for leaks, cleaned out fuel filter and ran it in my yard today, still incredibly hot. Engine smokes a lot, and when you turn the prop by hand puffs of smoke come out of the chamber.

It has only died once in flight when I ran out of fuel. Idle is great. Either it's running hot everywhere or leaning out with high RPM.

What I haven't done yet is opened the regulator to see if it's dirty. Not sure if I should do that without an extra diaphragm on hand? However it doesn't seem to be dripping any fuel without the prop turning.

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What does it mean when my plane pulls to belly on right KE but pulls to canopy on left KE? Everything else in the trim scheme seems to be fine.

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As long as it is just slightly either way, then you are pretty close to having the plane dead on. 2% or so in opposite directions is not unheard of.

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Sometimes I feel like I'm taking over this thread - hope you guys don't mind. It's been really great for little questions rather than posting lots of new topics.

So what tends to weigh more, electric equipment or glow equipment? I guess it would be comparing engine, full tank, RX battery, servo, etc. to motor, ESC, batteries, etc.

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Electric is typically still heavier using the same model as a base for either glo or electric. But that delta is shrinking as we get each generation of lipo batteries. When electric pattern with lipos first started, we needed 8000mah packs to make it thru the sequence, now we can fly P-09 sequences at around 3000-3200 mah and guys are using 4000-4500 mah packs which dramatically drops the weight. Glo seems to be going the other way. The new YS170 just added a couple ounces with the CDI unit so the gap narrows again. But, glo can still fly longer flights on it's 'fuel' load.

Each has it's advantages and disadvantages. Just fly what you like.

Woodie

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Woodie is exactly right. Especially at takeoff glow will always weigh more right now. Most YS setups are 12+ pounds at takeoff. This gets back to the weigh empty or weigh full debate. My arguement is that is not our fault that electrics fuel weighs nothing and glow does. But that is for another forum. I think the weight rules are fine how they are.

The biggest advantage I see one way or another right now is that when you are learning to fly, you can fly considerably longer flying glow. Most battery setups you'd better be setting up to land at a MAXIMUM of 10 minutes. On 16oz, I can comfortably fly my CDI setup 14 minutes.

Both setups work and both are competitive. Just check out the results at the NATS. Masters and FAI were won by electric, but glow was right behind them and certainly wasn't at a disadvantage. I think you'll see similar numbers at the worlds next month. The top 10 will be spilt glow/electric. So both work and work well. It is a personal preference thing.

Arch

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Arch, that's a great point you brought up - electric is another learning curve. Although right now I only get 10 minutes of flight on both of my planes. I have to weigh that with the difficulty and cost of getting fuel around here.:eek:

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But you always have the possibility of installing a larger tank. My biggest reason against the electrics at this second, is the learning curve. They are certainly not plug and play. Twice in the last 2 months I have watched guys spend the money and then plug something in to the charger too quickly while hot or whatever, or fly 1 minute too long and lose a 300 dollar battery pack. The costs are coming down for sure, and they definitely work, but there is still quite a learning curve to it.

Arch

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Thanks Arch. Probably just what I needed to hear. Maybe a good idea to start electrics with a smaller plane or a better job ;)

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I started electric with a focus sport. It runs an 8s motor. Both the batteries and motor are less expensive than the 10s systems for a 2x2 plane. I also started with the least expensive batteries around. I am using the Rhino's out of China. Two 4s batteries for an 8s pack are running $80.00 US right now. I would much rather to puff one of these than a $300 10s pack. There is a learning curve for sure. Throttle management is way different and I feel I am make some changes to my rudder input as well.

As for practice - flights are shorter but I just got enough packs for 4 practice flights before I need to re-charge. This all I can fit in an evening after work practice session anyway. As for weekends - 2 re-charges will give me 6 flights which all I can concentrate for anyway.

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Is it time to stick a fork in the two stroke as far as competition above the sportsman class....I can only think of 4 active contest going pilots in D6 who are above Sportsman still competing with them??? Anybody see YS going the same route in the next 5 years??

Glen
"Mr. Shepherd"

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There are quite a few guys in D1 flying OS two strokes - both 140 and 160 - all the way through masters.

I was just looking at the cost of 4S packs, and they really are coming down in price ($50ea). I could do something like the Sebart Wind and run it on 8S, and eventually convert my Yak over to 8S as well. $300 in battery packs will give me 3 flights before recharge, and cost about what I've spent on fuel this year.

Will have to keep pondering this one. It would be easy to stick with glow but getting fuel around here really just sucks.

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Joe,
Did you get your engine troubles sorted out yet? I hate to say I told you so, but, well, I told you so. :)

Does it run hot even with the cowl removed? If so, look closely at your mixture settings. Have you recently changed brands of fuel? Try not to do that. Pick something and stick with it. You'll go nuts otherwise (voice of experience).

Don't look at electric as a way to solve your power system troubles. It's just another way of doing the job, complete with all sorts of tradeoffs and gotchas. Not that it's bad - it certainly does work but NOTHING is perfect. Just stick with what you've got for now and learn how to deal with it. If you keep changing, you'll always be chasing the dragon. VBG

John Pavlick
Team Black Magic, Tech-Aero Designs

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i'll take any of those old YS 1.70's you don't need anymore. [sm=teeth_smile.gif]

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I'm just about to send my engine in to YS Parts and Service. Smokes without cowl. Ran fine for two months, then one day just started smoking. Tried lighter prop, re-tuning, and new (same brand) gallon of fuel. Same RPM, same smoke, same problems.

The YS forum says I'm using too much prop for the fuel I"m using - 15x10 on YS 20/20 fuel.

I can't believe having fuel/energy stored at the CG is such a big freaking deal. I really didn't think that was too much to ask for.

Looks like I might be done flying pattern for the year unless this engine really comes back in 2 weeks.

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Does the obsession ever end? Every once in a while I get to a period where I say "I've got a couple of nice planes. I am content flying what I have." It is always followed by hours->days->weeks of me being glued to the computer obsessing about what's coming next (SebArt Wind 110 if you ask me today).

When I started this "hobby" a year ago I was obsessing about planes on the computer. I bought one figuring I would just get it over with and move on. It keeps happening!


BTW the electric kick I'm on now stemmed from the 24 total hours I spent traveling to buy fuel this summer, cost of the fuel, wear and tear on my car (and my clothes and my carpets), etc. I will keep at least one of my glow setups for a short while or more just because engines are cool.;)