Official Smartech Thread
06-10-2006, 05:16 PM
#2726
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
greetings trd2nv.. the bearings in the clutch bell are standard across many cars. just go to your lhs and ask for 10x5x4 Ball bearings
non flanged. Ball bearings are better than the bushing you have in there now. you will need 2 of them.
non flanged. Ball bearings are better than the bushing you have in there now. you will need 2 of them.
ORIGINAL: trd2nv
come on does any 1 know were i can get the bearings from that are in the clutch bell??? mine are damaged and i need it 2 play[&o] n e 1 got anys spares
or know were i can get it from thanks
come on does any 1 know were i can get the bearings from that are in the clutch bell??? mine are damaged and i need it 2 play[&o] n e 1 got anys spares
or know were i can get it from thanks
06-10-2006, 05:52 PM
#2727
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
ORIGINAL: lumpy79
i
our cars are not cheap or poor quality (okay some parts are), but they are really underrated for what they can do and what can be done.....we just need to take a different outlook on our cars, were the equivalent of the jamacian bobslede team...everyone laughed at them and they won the gold medal, so it goes to show you, sometimes being resourceful and having to work with what you got makes you the better driver.
srry for the long post.....i ramble sometimes
i
our cars are not cheap or poor quality (okay some parts are), but they are really underrated for what they can do and what can be done.....we just need to take a different outlook on our cars, were the equivalent of the jamacian bobslede team...everyone laughed at them and they won the gold medal, so it goes to show you, sometimes being resourceful and having to work with what you got makes you the better driver.
srry for the long post.....i ramble sometimes
I like my Commando, have a few cars and its a real blast to drive. It is outclassed at the racetrack but its fun to drive. I have a TS4N Pro and a HPI NS4 pro and although they handle, accelerate and brake a lot better they can't take the same abuse the smartech takes.
06-10-2006, 05:56 PM
#2728
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
I'm using Mugen Sekei 50000 diff silicone oil for the diff cups, on most cases two dabs do the trick or a small dab on each gear, usually a little more in the front and for the external side of things, I was told to use "Lucas" because it doesn't break down, and now I'm crazy about it... you can get it at your local car related store and some gas stations... I just pulled apart a smartech ball bearing that was dirty... interesting, once you clean em out and re grease, they're pretty alright...
ORIGINAL: boltech
I could never understand how the diffs get stripped like that. I have never had any diff problems. I'm just wondering are you guys greasing the diffs regularly? I know that during my upgrade to BB the rear diffs were packed with grease but the front diffs were almost dry. So I took the time to liberally add HPI diff grease to the gears and spun them a bit so they were thickly coated.
Maybe the children building the cars at the Smartech plant are slacking off
I could never understand how the diffs get stripped like that. I have never had any diff problems. I'm just wondering are you guys greasing the diffs regularly? I know that during my upgrade to BB the rear diffs were packed with grease but the front diffs were almost dry. So I took the time to liberally add HPI diff grease to the gears and spun them a bit so they were thickly coated.
Maybe the children building the cars at the Smartech plant are slacking off
ORIGINAL: lumpy79
here is one showing the diff....its alittle blurry, but yo can see the angle of the drive cup
here is one showing the diff....its alittle blurry, but yo can see the angle of the drive cup
06-10-2006, 06:09 PM
#2729
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
I'm sorry, I had to quote this long post but, wow... thank you so much for saying that...
Smartechs have long been noted as the underdogs... in most cases, they're really fast but unrefined... I took my Winner pro over to my LHS and the first question I got was "What kinda car is that?" I tell them "Smartech Winner Pro", some go "huh? whats that?"... then the body comes off, and more questions like "Is that upper aluminum plate stock?" "What about the lower?" "Aluminum shocks? how much did you get those for?" (Those, are stock).. I look at the RS4 and a TC3 in comparison... the smartech's got the basic idea, just is not as refined... I've put in insane man hours on chassis cleaning and aligning, rebuilding diffs, stock engine maintenance, aerodynamics... and now, I can keep up with my friend's modded RS4... it feels good to know that they can be as good if not better...
Mind you, the loving feeling was blown away by a third contestant, an HPI Hellfire with street tires [X(]... thats all I have to say [X(] Smartech, get off your behinds and top that asap please...
Smartechs have long been noted as the underdogs... in most cases, they're really fast but unrefined... I took my Winner pro over to my LHS and the first question I got was "What kinda car is that?" I tell them "Smartech Winner Pro", some go "huh? whats that?"... then the body comes off, and more questions like "Is that upper aluminum plate stock?" "What about the lower?" "Aluminum shocks? how much did you get those for?" (Those, are stock
).. I look at the RS4 and a TC3 in comparison... the smartech's got the basic idea, just is not as refined... I've put in insane man hours on chassis cleaning and aligning, rebuilding diffs, stock engine maintenance, aerodynamics... and now, I can keep up with my friend's modded RS4... it feels good to know that they can be as good if not better... Mind you, the loving feeling was blown away by a third contestant, an HPI Hellfire with street tires [X(]... thats all I have to say [X(] Smartech, get off your behinds and top that asap please...
ORIGINAL: lumpy79
i just basically need to get some e-clips and donuts for my rs4 and its up and running after the severe cleaning it required........as for my commando, it seems it going to be up on blocks for the next little while.....the next set of parts that are being ordered are going to be new diffs (front and rear, since they are both toast, thought i could get away with atleast rear wheel drive), a upper deck (going to upgrade to the aluminum one) and some new plastic all around (swing arms and carriers). i was looking at the AE TC3 and it looks like they use the same type of ball joint for the hubs to connect to the arms and the same configuration. maybe worth looking into these as a rreplacement for the sock.
also, i have a star .12 and a star .15. the .12 is new and needs breaking in and the .15 is ready to roll. i was looking at the size difference between the .15 from hpi and the smt .15, and it seems the star engines are smaller. has anybody had any sizing issue or fit problems when bolting other engines into their cars? any mods that you had to make to get it to function properly? just curious.
and the traxxas header that i am using, gives you way more punch across the whole power band. definitly a great improvement. i did have the hpi header, but never got the same performance as i did with the traxxas. and the racing pipe, according to ofna, is tuned for more low to mid range torque. maybe thats why i destroyed my diffs.....time will only tell. maybe ill strap the smt .15 into my hpi and see if i can get the same results.
as it stood last time when i was out with my friend, he was running a acme buggy with a .18 and a two speed tranny, and i was running my current setup, and i was eating his buggy up.....across the whole parking lot!!!....WOT, and all.....he would get the jump on me coming around a corner, and then i would just scoot past him......the only time he actually caught up to me was when i would slow down to turn the car around and bam again......right past him......
our cars are not cheap or poor quality (okay some parts are), but they are really underrated for what they can do and what can be done.....we just need to take a different outlook on our cars, were the equivalent of the jamacian bobslede team...everyone laughed at them and they won the gold medal, so it goes to show you, sometimes being resourceful and having to work with what you got makes you the better driver.
srry for the long post.....i ramble sometimes
i just basically need to get some e-clips and donuts for my rs4 and its up and running after the severe cleaning it required........as for my commando, it seems it going to be up on blocks for the next little while.....the next set of parts that are being ordered are going to be new diffs (front and rear, since they are both toast, thought i could get away with atleast rear wheel drive), a upper deck (going to upgrade to the aluminum one) and some new plastic all around (swing arms and carriers). i was looking at the AE TC3 and it looks like they use the same type of ball joint for the hubs to connect to the arms and the same configuration. maybe worth looking into these as a rreplacement for the sock.
also, i have a star .12 and a star .15. the .12 is new and needs breaking in and the .15 is ready to roll. i was looking at the size difference between the .15 from hpi and the smt .15, and it seems the star engines are smaller. has anybody had any sizing issue or fit problems when bolting other engines into their cars? any mods that you had to make to get it to function properly? just curious.
and the traxxas header that i am using, gives you way more punch across the whole power band. definitly a great improvement. i did have the hpi header, but never got the same performance as i did with the traxxas. and the racing pipe, according to ofna, is tuned for more low to mid range torque. maybe thats why i destroyed my diffs.....time will only tell. maybe ill strap the smt .15 into my hpi and see if i can get the same results.
as it stood last time when i was out with my friend, he was running a acme buggy with a .18 and a two speed tranny, and i was running my current setup, and i was eating his buggy up.....across the whole parking lot!!!....WOT, and all.....he would get the jump on me coming around a corner, and then i would just scoot past him......the only time he actually caught up to me was when i would slow down to turn the car around and bam again......right past him......
our cars are not cheap or poor quality (okay some parts are), but they are really underrated for what they can do and what can be done.....we just need to take a different outlook on our cars, were the equivalent of the jamacian bobslede team...everyone laughed at them and they won the gold medal, so it goes to show you, sometimes being resourceful and having to work with what you got makes you the better driver.
srry for the long post.....i ramble sometimes
06-10-2006, 06:16 PM
#2730
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
The same bearings that are used in the hubs are the ones that are used in the clutch. Very handy as I bought a set of bearings!!! And I just bought a new two speed cutch bell that came with no bearings.
ORIGINAL: lumpy79
trd2nv, i dont know where you live in OZ, either outback or city center, but you might find some luck going to a fastner store. in canada we have special store that just carry bolts and screws and bushings and all sorts of the endless tidbits that most hardware stores do not have room for. take your bearings with you and your clutch bell, and see if you can get something that will fit. either that or order a new set of bearings off ebay......thats all that i can think of that might get your olling sooner rather then later. good luck!!!
trd2nv, i dont know where you live in OZ, either outback or city center, but you might find some luck going to a fastner store. in canada we have special store that just carry bolts and screws and bushings and all sorts of the endless tidbits that most hardware stores do not have room for. take your bearings with you and your clutch bell, and see if you can get something that will fit. either that or order a new set of bearings off ebay......thats all that i can think of that might get your olling sooner rather then later. good luck!!!
06-10-2006, 06:20 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
I just used some grease that I used on bearing on my normal car in the diffs. Tho I noticed that the 4 screws that hold the diff together have stripped the threads and the diff is only being held together by the outer housing!! As long as it works its all good!! lol
ORIGINAL: Captain_Nifty
I'm using Mugen Sekei 50000 diff silicone oil for the diff cups, on most cases two dabs do the trick or a small dab on each gear, usually a little more in the front and for the external side of things, I was told to use "Lucas" because it doesn't break down, and now I'm crazy about it... you can get it at your local car related store and some gas stations... I just pulled apart a smartech ball bearing that was dirty... interesting, once you clean em out and re grease, they're pretty alright...
I'm using Mugen Sekei 50000 diff silicone oil for the diff cups, on most cases two dabs do the trick or a small dab on each gear, usually a little more in the front and for the external side of things, I was told to use "Lucas" because it doesn't break down, and now I'm crazy about it... you can get it at your local car related store and some gas stations... I just pulled apart a smartech ball bearing that was dirty... interesting, once you clean em out and re grease, they're pretty alright...
ORIGINAL: boltech
I could never understand how the diffs get stripped like that. I have never had any diff problems. I'm just wondering are you guys greasing the diffs regularly? I know that during my upgrade to BB the rear diffs were packed with grease but the front diffs were almost dry. So I took the time to liberally add HPI diff grease to the gears and spun them a bit so they were thickly coated.
Maybe the children building the cars at the Smartech plant are slacking off
I could never understand how the diffs get stripped like that. I have never had any diff problems. I'm just wondering are you guys greasing the diffs regularly? I know that during my upgrade to BB the rear diffs were packed with grease but the front diffs were almost dry. So I took the time to liberally add HPI diff grease to the gears and spun them a bit so they were thickly coated.
Maybe the children building the cars at the Smartech plant are slacking off
ORIGINAL: lumpy79
here is one showing the diff....its alittle blurry, but yo can see the angle of the drive cup
here is one showing the diff....its alittle blurry, but yo can see the angle of the drive cup
06-10-2006, 07:45 PM
#2732
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
be careful though..lol... why can't we have nice aluminum or hardened steel diffs.. Here are some exterior pics of the Nifty-Mobile I hope you guys like... Camera is shoddy but it does get the general idea up.. I'll post pics of the chassis once I get this cam focused better, apparently, it needs lots of light to work...
06-10-2006, 07:53 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
ok this may sound silly to ask. with that being said what are your diffs made from? mine are some kind of metal along with the smaller diff gears. maybe they used different materials for the diff gears also?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Captain_Nifty
be careful though..lol... why can't we have nice aluminum or hardened steel diffs..
Here are some exterior pics of the Nifty-Mobile I hope you guys like... Camera is shoddy but it does get the general idea up.. I'll post pics of the chassis once I get this cam focused better, apparently, it needs lots of light to work...
[/quote
[quote]ORIGINAL: Captain_Nifty
be careful though..lol... why can't we have nice aluminum or hardened steel diffs.. Here are some exterior pics of the Nifty-Mobile I hope you guys like... Camera is shoddy but it does get the general idea up.. I'll post pics of the chassis once I get this cam focused better, apparently, it needs lots of light to work...
[/quote
06-10-2006, 08:29 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Its not entirely the problem the material in the diff. Its how the gears are meshed. they are too far apart and the gears just keeps getting chewed up under teh power. I fixed it by put some some washers and now i haven't had any problems with teh diff anymore.
now that the powers getting to the floor i need this thing to handle better. My car spins out way too easily and i think its because it keeps lifting the rear wheel when i turn.
Should i just get new shocks or would a sway bar help it more?
now that the powers getting to the floor i need this thing to handle better. My car spins out way too easily and i think its because it keeps lifting the rear wheel when i turn.
Should i just get new shocks or would a sway bar help it more?
06-10-2006, 09:00 PM
#2736
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
duly noted... I'm doing a strip down tonight of the front and rear diff to get ready for tomorrow, I think it would be great to check out that play...
Now, regarding handling....
Two things I checked and worked out the demons....
1_ at what point it actually happens, for me, under acceleration
2_how does the chassis behave on a turn, quick way that I used, I checked right under the chassis itself and saw signs of it bottoming out in front (two plastic nubs under the foam bumper support plate and scraping along the outer edges of the aluminum chassis.... and my right and rear wheel had less wear compared to the left rear and the front two tires...
you might want to use some thicker diff silicone to tame it down just a little, I did that, it seems to be keep things in check and I made an anti sway bar for the front using 2mm and 1.5mm piano wire (interchanging to see which one worked out better... 2mm is way stiffer, I prefer it... this helped a lot.
Now the front end doesn't oversteer and the chassis stays flatter...
Also, you might want to play around with the rates on your radio to bring the throws down... although, regardless of what you do, unless you limit the end points of the control throws, the cars are capable of doing donuts on demand...
In a nutshell, you just want to keep the car as flat as possible on the turns but yet as soon as you hit the apex, you should be able to go back on gas exit out of the turn quicker and after you've done a run with fairly equal amount of turns and straight ways, you should see a nice, somewhat more even wear on your tires...
I have stock aluminums... they keep it pretty stiff, I think you can order the shocks for the winner pro... double check if they're the aluminum ones, they're adjustable and a durability factor is kinda comforting... the only thing I'd upgrade them to would be Tamiya TRFs...
If you want to get the most out of your shocks, do a rebuild and put in a heavier oil, adjust by screwing the shock down the threads or investing in springs... it totally is how far you want to take it...
Now, regarding handling....
Two things I checked and worked out the demons....
1_ at what point it actually happens, for me, under acceleration
2_how does the chassis behave on a turn, quick way that I used, I checked right under the chassis itself and saw signs of it bottoming out in front (two plastic nubs under the foam bumper support plate and scraping along the outer edges of the aluminum chassis.... and my right and rear wheel had less wear compared to the left rear and the front two tires...
you might want to use some thicker diff silicone to tame it down just a little, I did that, it seems to be keep things in check and I made an anti sway bar for the front using 2mm and 1.5mm piano wire (interchanging to see which one worked out better... 2mm is way stiffer, I prefer it... this helped a lot.
Now the front end doesn't oversteer and the chassis stays flatter...
Also, you might want to play around with the rates on your radio to bring the throws down... although, regardless of what you do, unless you limit the end points of the control throws, the cars are capable of doing donuts on demand...
In a nutshell, you just want to keep the car as flat as possible on the turns but yet as soon as you hit the apex, you should be able to go back on gas exit out of the turn quicker and after you've done a run with fairly equal amount of turns and straight ways, you should see a nice, somewhat more even wear on your tires...
I have stock aluminums... they keep it pretty stiff, I think you can order the shocks for the winner pro... double check if they're the aluminum ones, they're adjustable and a durability factor is kinda comforting... the only thing I'd upgrade them to would be Tamiya TRFs...
If you want to get the most out of your shocks, do a rebuild and put in a heavier oil, adjust by screwing the shock down the threads or investing in springs... it totally is how far you want to take it...
ORIGINAL: mindwreck
Its not entirely the problem the material in the diff. Its how the gears are meshed. they are too far apart and the gears just keeps getting chewed up under teh power. I fixed it by put some some washers and now i haven't had any problems with teh diff anymore.
now that the powers getting to the floor i need this thing to handle better. My car spins out way too easily and i think its because it keeps lifting the rear wheel when i turn.
Should i just get new shocks or would a sway bar help it more?
Its not entirely the problem the material in the diff. Its how the gears are meshed. they are too far apart and the gears just keeps getting chewed up under teh power. I fixed it by put some some washers and now i haven't had any problems with teh diff anymore.
now that the powers getting to the floor i need this thing to handle better. My car spins out way too easily and i think its because it keeps lifting the rear wheel when i turn.
Should i just get new shocks or would a sway bar help it more?
06-11-2006, 10:43 AM
#2737
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
captain....
That body looks good on the smartech. Kinda went sticker happy, but to each their own. The only thing I would personaly suggest is PLEASE put a spacer in the rear wheels to push them outward more. Looks like the rear wheels are being eaten by the wide fenders. Would look even better with the speedway pal rims..............<drooling>[sm=wink.gif]
That body looks good on the smartech. Kinda went sticker happy, but to each their own. The only thing I would personaly suggest is PLEASE put a spacer in the rear wheels to push them outward more. Looks like the rear wheels are being eaten by the wide fenders. Would look even better with the speedway pal rims..............<drooling>[sm=wink.gif]
06-11-2006, 12:40 PM
#2738
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Hey r20, thanks... the decals all came with the body set.. I have that weird craving for JGTC and DTM bodies... The problem with the wheels, they are 24mm rims, ick, yes I know... I run on the HPI cross thread tires if I go out for performance... I need to get some spacers, I see what you mean ha! The speedway pal rims may have to wait, I'm halfway through convincing a friend of mine in a machine shop to make me a set of nice 2 piece aluminum rims... any takers with lathes?
I'm adding in some chassis pics for you guys to check out... Kol, I'm going to post a couple of pics of what the anti sway bar looks like mounted... sorry I would have taken build pics but this camera is shoddy at nighttime...
Imnotn0rmal and lumpy, let me know if the pics of the shocks help... they're stock winner pros... would probably be cheaper than other after market aluminum jobs...
more feedback guys... a lot of what you see on this chassis was inspired by everyone on this thread...
I'm adding in some chassis pics for you guys to check out... Kol, I'm going to post a couple of pics of what the anti sway bar looks like mounted... sorry I would have taken build pics but this camera is shoddy at nighttime...
Imnotn0rmal and lumpy, let me know if the pics of the shocks help... they're stock winner pros... would probably be cheaper than other after market aluminum jobs...
more feedback guys... a lot of what you see on this chassis was inspired by everyone on this thread...
ORIGINAL: r20crazy
captain....
That body looks good on the smartech. Kinda went sticker happy, but to each their own. The only thing I would personaly suggest is PLEASE put a spacer in the rear wheels to push them outward more. Looks like the rear wheels are being eaten by the wide fenders. Would look even better with the speedway pal rims..............<drooling>[sm=wink.gif]
captain....
That body looks good on the smartech. Kinda went sticker happy, but to each their own. The only thing I would personaly suggest is PLEASE put a spacer in the rear wheels to push them outward more. Looks like the rear wheels are being eaten by the wide fenders. Would look even better with the speedway pal rims..............<drooling>[sm=wink.gif]
06-11-2006, 03:25 PM
#2739
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Well Guys My Crash Video is online. After Scouring 27 minutes of bad camera footage I took the two best and put them online.
enjoy!
Once I show the Mrs how to use a camera properly I will be out shooting my Commando again and have a better video up!
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...73374127290602
enjoy!
Once I show the Mrs how to use a camera properly I will be out shooting my Commando again and have a better video up!
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...73374127290602
06-11-2006, 05:06 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
That is like an instant replay of my 1st wreck with my SMT....it was lunchtime the 1st day I got it....broke the pin....
The shocks work nicely...I have to re-calibrate my steering since my wreck though....
The shocks work nicely...I have to re-calibrate my steering since my wreck though....
06-11-2006, 09:50 PM
#2741
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
My first rash happened with the stock radio just came off second gear and hello curbside, cracked the stock M3 GTR body front left quarter panel and hood, stripped the front left tire clean off the rim (broke all the krazy glue bonds clean off), took a twist mid air, landed on all fours and ran across the street (throttle glitching now), smack into another curbside.. and I REALLY liked the stock rims, they had some dish to em 
...
Try changing to a solid bell crank with a servo saver on your steering servo, I found that that helped.
...Try changing to a solid bell crank with a servo saver on your steering servo, I found that that helped.
06-11-2006, 09:53 PM
#2742
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
yeeeowtch... btw... how is that T-15 engine coming along? seems like a real screamer...
I love my stock engine, but I want to see hows everybody's swaps coming along long term...
I love my stock engine, but I want to see hows everybody's swaps coming along long term...
ORIGINAL: boltech
Well Guys My Crash Video is online. After Scouring 27 minutes of bad camera footage I took the two best and put them online.
enjoy!
Once I show the Mrs how to use a camera properly I will be out shooting my Commando again and have a better video up!
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...73374127290602
Well Guys My Crash Video is online. After Scouring 27 minutes of bad camera footage I took the two best and put them online.
enjoy!
Once I show the Mrs how to use a camera properly I will be out shooting my Commando again and have a better video up!
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...73374127290602
06-11-2006, 10:31 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
It's very very stable. I'm enjoying it alot. I'm about a 1/4 turn from running at peak lean 'no oil sputtering out the exhaust'. Radio is still trimmed at 75% EPA. Still having some problems keeping it within temp range with the stock smartech body on even with holes in the front and top. I decided to work on my 18SS and TTR buggy engine swap this weekend as it was near freezing outside. but later on this week I'll get the rotary tool out and turn my 2 spare dog bones into suspension pins.
BTW The HPI suspension pins from my 18SS will most likely fit the smartech but you will have to drill the hole straight thru the rear bumper and rear swing arm mount. what that might do to the integrity of the plastic i'm not sure. which is why i'm going the dog bone route. it should make the suspension really strong.
They really need to take a sweeper to the lot as the sand was a big contributing factor in the slide.
BTW The HPI suspension pins from my 18SS will most likely fit the smartech but you will have to drill the hole straight thru the rear bumper and rear swing arm mount. what that might do to the integrity of the plastic i'm not sure. which is why i'm going the dog bone route. it should make the suspension really strong.
They really need to take a sweeper to the lot as the sand was a big contributing factor in the slide.
ORIGINAL: Captain_Nifty
yeeeowtch... btw... how is that T-15 engine coming along? seems like a real screamer...
I love my stock engine, but I want to see hows everybody's swaps coming along long term...
yeeeowtch... btw... how is that T-15 engine coming along? seems like a real screamer...
I love my stock engine, but I want to see hows everybody's swaps coming along long term...
ORIGINAL: boltech
Well Guys My Crash Video is online. After Scouring 27 minutes of bad camera footage I took the two best and put them online.
enjoy!
Once I show the Mrs how to use a camera properly I will be out shooting my Commando again and have a better video up!
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...73374127290602
Well Guys My Crash Video is online. After Scouring 27 minutes of bad camera footage I took the two best and put them online.
enjoy!
Once I show the Mrs how to use a camera properly I will be out shooting my Commando again and have a better video up!
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...73374127290602
06-12-2006, 02:38 AM
#2744
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: south australia, adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 14
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
i got a reply from smartech 2day heres wat they said and they also provide parts...
Dear Sir,
Very thanks for your enquiry and pleased to write you.
This is Carrie from Perfect Toys and warmly welcome your reply.
Our Perfect Toys supply all the available spare parts for the smartech nitro
cars and should you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact with
me.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Best regards.
carrie
----- Original Message -----
From: toys <[email protected]>
To: carrie <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 8:58 AM
Subject: Fw: do you sell smartech car parts for winner pro and commando
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "piseth pao" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 5:52 PM
> Subject: do you sell smartech car parts for winner pro and commando
>
>
> > hi can you please tell me were can i buy parts from, for your smartech
nitro
> > cars, winner pro and commando do you sell them ??? please let me know thank
> > you
Dear Sir,
Very thanks for your enquiry and pleased to write you.
This is Carrie from Perfect Toys and warmly welcome your reply.
Our Perfect Toys supply all the available spare parts for the smartech nitro
cars and should you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact with
me.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Best regards.
carrie
----- Original Message -----
From: toys <[email protected]>
To: carrie <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 8:58 AM
Subject: Fw: do you sell smartech car parts for winner pro and commando
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "piseth pao" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 5:52 PM
> Subject: do you sell smartech car parts for winner pro and commando
>
>
> > hi can you please tell me were can i buy parts from, for your smartech
nitro
> > cars, winner pro and commando do you sell them ??? please let me know thank
> > you
06-12-2006, 06:08 AM
#2745
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Port Richey,
FL
Posts: 112
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Wow, that is an informative email....long way to say yes....How long did it take to get that response?
Since you actually got a reply, try to find out if they have a direct sales group...
I'd like to get some of the upgraded drive shafts...(I think I saw them on the website).
Since you actually got a reply, try to find out if they have a direct sales group...
I'd like to get some of the upgraded drive shafts...(I think I saw them on the website).
06-12-2006, 06:16 AM
#2746
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: south australia, adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 14
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
i got a rely within 2 or 3 days i sent a email bak for prices n what they have hopefuli i get an email bak from them again fast.... im guessing they havnt got much emails from other peoples lately thats why i responed to my email, well il keep u all posted
hopefuli i get an email bak from them again fast.... im guessing they havnt got much emails from other peoples lately thats why i responed to my email, well il keep u all posted
06-12-2006, 07:12 AM
#2747
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: south australia, adelaide, AUSTRALIA
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
damm that was fast they replied bak 2 me in under an hour this is what they sed
From : carrie <[email protected]>
Sent : Monday, 12 June 2006 11:48:43 AM
To : "piseth pao" <[email protected]>
Subject : Re: do you sell smartech car parts for winner pro and commando
Hi, thanks for your prompt reply. We supply all the available spare parts and
you can buy it from us.
Would you send us your requested parts list then we can give you the price.
Should you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact with me.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Best regards.
carrie
I AM GOIN TO PUT IN A REQUEST OF THE PARTS I NEED AND I WILL TELL U GUYS HOW MUCH IT COST FROM THEM.....
IF U GUYS WANA GIVE IT A TRY HERE IS THERE EMAIL ADDRESS...... [email protected]
I EMAILED THESE ADRESSES FROM THE SMARTECH SITE
1. CHINA FACTORYong Guan Xian Hao Electric Appliances & Toys Co., Ltd.
Add:TianXin Management Zone,HuangJian,DongGuan City,GuangDong,China
Tel86-769)3624850~3624854
Fax86-769)3629460
E-mail:[email protected]
2. H.K.OFFICE:Perfect Toys International Co., Ltd .
Add:2/F.,BLOCK3,WAHLAIIND,CENTER,10-14 KweiI Tei Street,FO TAN,SHATIN,N.T.
Tel852)2691 1863
Fax852)2693 0358
E-mail:[email protected]
AND I GOT A REPLY BAK FROM THE 2ND ONE
From : carrie <[email protected]>
Sent : Monday, 12 June 2006 11:48:43 AM
To : "piseth pao" <[email protected]>
Subject : Re: do you sell smartech car parts for winner pro and commando
Hi, thanks for your prompt reply. We supply all the available spare parts and
you can buy it from us.
Would you send us your requested parts list then we can give you the price.
Should you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact with me.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Best regards.
carrie
I AM GOIN TO PUT IN A REQUEST OF THE PARTS I NEED AND I WILL TELL U GUYS HOW MUCH IT COST FROM THEM.....
IF U GUYS WANA GIVE IT A TRY HERE IS THERE EMAIL ADDRESS...... [email protected]
I EMAILED THESE ADRESSES FROM THE SMARTECH SITE
1. CHINA FACTORY
ong Guan Xian Hao Electric Appliances & Toys Co., Ltd. Add:TianXin Management Zone,HuangJian,DongGuan City,GuangDong,China
Tel
86-769)3624850~3624854Fax
86-769)3629460E-mail:[email protected]
2. H.K.OFFICE:Perfect Toys International Co., Ltd .
Add:2/F.,BLOCK3,WAHLAIIND,CENTER,10-14 KweiI Tei Street,FO TAN,SHATIN,N.T.
Tel
852)2691 1863Fax
852)2693 0358E-mail:[email protected]
AND I GOT A REPLY BAK FROM THE 2ND ONE
06-12-2006, 08:47 AM
#2748
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,086
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Smartech does have an american office you know. I remeber calling them a while back and was dissapointed to find out they didn't accept canadian orders. but it's more fun improvising parts than waiting for them.
06-12-2006, 09:41 AM
#2750
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
wow, not read the forum for a few days and i had some catching up to do.
imnotnorml, yes my shocks are all the same lenght, because i needed a replacement (broke off the top cap on the stock part), i ordered them with my first round of parts and decided to go with another manufacturer, Speedy Parts, the stock shocks where not available at the time of the order, and these came in cheaper then the smartech parts. they are not adjustable, but have a good seal and you can fill them with oil, change springs. what i normally due is empty out the sludge that most of these manufacturers call shock oil, and replace it with 20wt. mountain bike suspension oil. for what you would spend on a small bottle at the lhs, you get four times the amount from the bike shop, and its actual shock oil.....no foam, does not break down, consistent performance in different temps, etc. i find the 20wt, gives you a nice supple, responsive ride.....but this is a personnal preference, so experiment with what works for you. also, if you take you stock shocks off and pull them you will notice they have more travel then spring.....as if they wanted to save money at the plant, and used the same shocks for cars and buggies, just different springs.....
capt, nice looking car....very nice indeed, you can see you have invested alot of time into that bad boy.....
has anybody else noticed how much the chasis flexes, beccuase mine might as well be a wet noodle.....since i do not have an aluminum upper plate, anybody that does, have you noticed an improvement in reducing flex over the stock plastic, or do you still get flex. something else im considering is to upgrade my shock mounts to pillow balls (just like an hpi), i currently have the top front shocks mounted via bolts and washers, i find this gives you a more secure and robust connection between the shocks and shock tower(stow plate), but was thinking about changing the lower mounts to pillow balls. just a thought. i find the "screw into plastic" method alittle cruel, especially for an area like the stow plate/shock top cap.
finally broke in my spare star .12 engine yesterday.....have to get some spare engine mounts so i can return the smartech ones to where they belong.....and here is something funny, the smartech engine does not want to fit into my hpi rs4 3, due to a slight difference in pull start design. it seems our pullstarts are alittle to wide to clear the rear bulkhead/brace on the hpi.....oh well, guess ill stick to the keeping the smt engine within the smartech and my hpi star engines in my hpi (for now)...
imnotnorml, yes my shocks are all the same lenght, because i needed a replacement (broke off the top cap on the stock part), i ordered them with my first round of parts and decided to go with another manufacturer, Speedy Parts, the stock shocks where not available at the time of the order, and these came in cheaper then the smartech parts. they are not adjustable, but have a good seal and you can fill them with oil, change springs. what i normally due is empty out the sludge that most of these manufacturers call shock oil, and replace it with 20wt. mountain bike suspension oil. for what you would spend on a small bottle at the lhs, you get four times the amount from the bike shop, and its actual shock oil.....no foam, does not break down, consistent performance in different temps, etc. i find the 20wt, gives you a nice supple, responsive ride.....but this is a personnal preference, so experiment with what works for you. also, if you take you stock shocks off and pull them you will notice they have more travel then spring.....as if they wanted to save money at the plant, and used the same shocks for cars and buggies, just different springs.....
capt, nice looking car....very nice indeed, you can see you have invested alot of time into that bad boy.....
has anybody else noticed how much the chasis flexes, beccuase mine might as well be a wet noodle.....since i do not have an aluminum upper plate, anybody that does, have you noticed an improvement in reducing flex over the stock plastic, or do you still get flex. something else im considering is to upgrade my shock mounts to pillow balls (just like an hpi), i currently have the top front shocks mounted via bolts and washers, i find this gives you a more secure and robust connection between the shocks and shock tower(stow plate), but was thinking about changing the lower mounts to pillow balls. just a thought. i find the "screw into plastic" method alittle cruel, especially for an area like the stow plate/shock top cap.
finally broke in my spare star .12 engine yesterday.....have to get some spare engine mounts so i can return the smartech ones to where they belong.....and here is something funny, the smartech engine does not want to fit into my hpi rs4 3, due to a slight difference in pull start design. it seems our pullstarts are alittle to wide to clear the rear bulkhead/brace on the hpi.....oh well, guess ill stick to the keeping the smt engine within the smartech and my hpi star engines in my hpi (for now)...