Official Smartech Thread
06-12-2006, 10:06 AM
#2751
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
i didnt think to grease my diffs till i was rebuilding my rs4.....so when i do get new diffs for the smartech, ill give them the same loving i did for the hpi diffs. i use, again another bicycle product, synthetic grease meant for ball bearings, bottom brackets and headsets...i find it has the right consistence for the diffs and dogbone ends.....automotive grease might be alittle to thick, and attract more dirt then needed.
something else i did in my rs4, which i will bei transferring to my smartech, is using donuts in all the drive cups to eliminate drive slop and unneeded movement. hpi part # 6891 silicone o-ring. there cheap and will make your drivetrain more solid.
remeber, an ounce of prevention is 28grams.....lol!!!
something else i did in my rs4, which i will bei transferring to my smartech, is using donuts in all the drive cups to eliminate drive slop and unneeded movement. hpi part # 6891 silicone o-ring. there cheap and will make your drivetrain more solid.
remeber, an ounce of prevention is 28grams.....lol!!!
06-12-2006, 10:55 AM
#2752
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
I've put some better servos in my Commando, if I was to spend under $50, whats the best upgrade I can do to improve its overall performace?
06-12-2006, 12:38 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Does anyone know if this header and pipe will fit my winner sport 3 - 2 speed - buggy?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPX4&P=7
Thanks!!!!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPX4&P=7
Thanks!!!!
06-13-2006, 12:20 AM
#2754
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
no reason it should not....its designed to fit on the same side and has the same flange by the looks of it.......nice pipe and header. nice score if you buy for sure, might even grab one in the future myself.
06-13-2006, 12:58 AM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Good to hear that its stable... temp range is something that concerns me with the engines... I put some time aside for working on engine tune, I brought things up a notch to just on rich side, just before peak lean... you should hear the accoustics in the area that I run, I was running around on the tarmac with another gent with an RS4 Evo... the engine noises sounded like F1 cars bouncing off the school wall into open air... 
The plastic integrity is a major issue, dont' bother taking away plastic from the parts themselves, might just give stress more areas to crack...
I have a bit of the same problem, a bit of sand gets into the lowest area on the lot (just a drainage grill) and spreads outwards....
The plastic integrity is a major issue, dont' bother taking away plastic from the parts themselves, might just give stress more areas to crack...
I have a bit of the same problem, a bit of sand gets into the lowest area on the lot (just a drainage grill) and spreads outwards....
ORIGINAL: boltech
It's very very stable. I'm enjoying it alot. I'm about a 1/4 turn from running at peak lean 'no oil sputtering out the exhaust'. Radio is still trimmed at 75% EPA. Still having some problems keeping it within temp range with the stock smartech body on even with holes in the front and top. I decided to work on my 18SS and TTR buggy engine swap this weekend as it was near freezing outside. but later on this week I'll get the rotary tool out and turn my 2 spare dog bones into suspension pins.
BTW The HPI suspension pins from my 18SS will most likely fit the smartech but you will have to drill the hole straight thru the rear bumper and rear swing arm mount. what that might do to the integrity of the plastic i'm not sure. which is why i'm going the dog bone route. it should make the suspension really strong.
They really need to take a sweeper to the lot as the sand was a big contributing factor in the slide.
It's very very stable. I'm enjoying it alot. I'm about a 1/4 turn from running at peak lean 'no oil sputtering out the exhaust'. Radio is still trimmed at 75% EPA. Still having some problems keeping it within temp range with the stock smartech body on even with holes in the front and top. I decided to work on my 18SS and TTR buggy engine swap this weekend as it was near freezing outside. but later on this week I'll get the rotary tool out and turn my 2 spare dog bones into suspension pins.
BTW The HPI suspension pins from my 18SS will most likely fit the smartech but you will have to drill the hole straight thru the rear bumper and rear swing arm mount. what that might do to the integrity of the plastic i'm not sure. which is why i'm going the dog bone route. it should make the suspension really strong.
They really need to take a sweeper to the lot as the sand was a big contributing factor in the slide.
ORIGINAL: Captain_Nifty
yeeeowtch... btw... how is that T-15 engine coming along? seems like a real screamer...
I love my stock engine, but I want to see hows everybody's swaps coming along long term...
yeeeowtch... btw... how is that T-15 engine coming along? seems like a real screamer...
I love my stock engine, but I want to see hows everybody's swaps coming along long term...
ORIGINAL: boltech
Well Guys My Crash Video is online. After Scouring 27 minutes of bad camera footage I took the two best and put them online.
enjoy!
Once I show the Mrs how to use a camera properly I will be out shooting my Commando again and have a better video up!
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...73374127290602
Well Guys My Crash Video is online. After Scouring 27 minutes of bad camera footage I took the two best and put them online.
enjoy!
Once I show the Mrs how to use a camera properly I will be out shooting my Commando again and have a better video up!
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...73374127290602
06-13-2006, 01:36 AM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
so much goodness in this post... ya I used to use 20wt mb suspension oil before, they're good.... I just switched to the 70 kinwald wt. for only one reason... I wanted a firm suspension, although, hey if we get a chance to race/bash together, for sure remind me to bring the oil for ya, you can try some and let me know if you like it...
You're right, stock shock when extended has more travel than spring... I found this out during my first shock rebuild its bizarre but eh, it words...
Thanks for the kind words on my machine, a lot of time and feedback from all you guys went into it and it kept me sane through my toughest hours... thank you so much again...
the plastic upper will flex, its better to get the aluminum upper plate as it stiffens out the chassis a lot.. I find my chassis' flex is the least of my worries... if you're using steel pillow balls, with matched ball ends, you should have no issues with the swap...
I will be looking into your advice regarding the donuts...sounds like a good idea...
You're right, stock shock when extended has more travel than spring... I found this out during my first shock rebuild its bizarre but eh, it words...
Thanks for the kind words on my machine, a lot of time and feedback from all you guys went into it and it kept me sane through my toughest hours... thank you so much again...
the plastic upper will flex, its better to get the aluminum upper plate as it stiffens out the chassis a lot.. I find my chassis' flex is the least of my worries... if you're using steel pillow balls, with matched ball ends, you should have no issues with the swap...
I will be looking into your advice regarding the donuts...sounds like a good idea...
ORIGINAL: lumpy79
wow, not read the forum for a few days and i had some catching up to do.
imnotnorml, yes my shocks are all the same lenght, because i needed a replacement (broke off the top cap on the stock part), i ordered them with my first round of parts and decided to go with another manufacturer, Speedy Parts, the stock shocks where not available at the time of the order, and these came in cheaper then the smartech parts. they are not adjustable, but have a good seal and you can fill them with oil, change springs. what i normally due is empty out the sludge that most of these manufacturers call shock oil, and replace it with 20wt. mountain bike suspension oil. for what you would spend on a small bottle at the lhs, you get four times the amount from the bike shop, and its actual shock oil.....no foam, does not break down, consistent performance in different temps, etc. i find the 20wt, gives you a nice supple, responsive ride.....but this is a personnal preference, so experiment with what works for you. also, if you take you stock shocks off and pull them you will notice they have more travel then spring.....as if they wanted to save money at the plant, and used the same shocks for cars and buggies, just different springs.....
capt, nice looking car....very nice indeed, you can see you have invested alot of time into that bad boy.....
has anybody else noticed how much the chasis flexes, beccuase mine might as well be a wet noodle.....since i do not have an aluminum upper plate, anybody that does, have you noticed an improvement in reducing flex over the stock plastic, or do you still get flex. something else im considering is to upgrade my shock mounts to pillow balls (just like an hpi), i currently have the top front shocks mounted via bolts and washers, i find this gives you a more secure and robust connection between the shocks and shock tower(stow plate), but was thinking about changing the lower mounts to pillow balls. just a thought. i find the "screw into plastic" method alittle cruel, especially for an area like the stow plate/shock top cap.
finally broke in my spare star .12 engine yesterday.....have to get some spare engine mounts so i can return the smartech ones to where they belong.....and here is something funny, the smartech engine does not want to fit into my hpi rs4 3, due to a slight difference in pull start design. it seems our pullstarts are alittle to wide to clear the rear bulkhead/brace on the hpi.....oh well, guess ill stick to the keeping the smt engine within the smartech and my hpi star engines in my hpi (for now)...
wow, not read the forum for a few days and i had some catching up to do.
imnotnorml, yes my shocks are all the same lenght, because i needed a replacement (broke off the top cap on the stock part), i ordered them with my first round of parts and decided to go with another manufacturer, Speedy Parts, the stock shocks where not available at the time of the order, and these came in cheaper then the smartech parts. they are not adjustable, but have a good seal and you can fill them with oil, change springs. what i normally due is empty out the sludge that most of these manufacturers call shock oil, and replace it with 20wt. mountain bike suspension oil. for what you would spend on a small bottle at the lhs, you get four times the amount from the bike shop, and its actual shock oil.....no foam, does not break down, consistent performance in different temps, etc. i find the 20wt, gives you a nice supple, responsive ride.....but this is a personnal preference, so experiment with what works for you. also, if you take you stock shocks off and pull them you will notice they have more travel then spring.....as if they wanted to save money at the plant, and used the same shocks for cars and buggies, just different springs.....
capt, nice looking car....very nice indeed, you can see you have invested alot of time into that bad boy.....
has anybody else noticed how much the chasis flexes, beccuase mine might as well be a wet noodle.....since i do not have an aluminum upper plate, anybody that does, have you noticed an improvement in reducing flex over the stock plastic, or do you still get flex. something else im considering is to upgrade my shock mounts to pillow balls (just like an hpi), i currently have the top front shocks mounted via bolts and washers, i find this gives you a more secure and robust connection between the shocks and shock tower(stow plate), but was thinking about changing the lower mounts to pillow balls. just a thought. i find the "screw into plastic" method alittle cruel, especially for an area like the stow plate/shock top cap.
finally broke in my spare star .12 engine yesterday.....have to get some spare engine mounts so i can return the smartech ones to where they belong.....and here is something funny, the smartech engine does not want to fit into my hpi rs4 3, due to a slight difference in pull start design. it seems our pullstarts are alittle to wide to clear the rear bulkhead/brace on the hpi.....oh well, guess ill stick to the keeping the smt engine within the smartech and my hpi star engines in my hpi (for now)...
06-13-2006, 02:56 AM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
okay....
Ladies and Gents, I have a question... diff cups... what would be a good replacement for the smartech units, and what kind of ramifications am I looking at for replacing with say, a similar sized diffs... the reason why I'm asking.. certain folks have aluminum diffs available..
Ladies and Gents, I have a question... diff cups... what would be a good replacement for the smartech units, and what kind of ramifications am I looking at for replacing with say, a similar sized diffs... the reason why I'm asking.. certain folks have aluminum diffs available..
06-13-2006, 05:11 AM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Great pics Captain!! Thanks for all the info. Despite all the abuse I have been giving my car lately it seems to be holding up well. I have a video clip of some doughnuts and general abuse that I will post!!! The car escaped unscathed!!
The car escaped unscathed!!
06-13-2006, 09:23 AM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
When I was buidling my 18SS I had a few donuts left over and they ended up in my commando in the diff cups and tranny cups.
they fit perfectly and makes the dog bones fit nice and snug. I didn't have enough for my wheel and side diff cups but thanks for the reminder I'll probably pick up some more later on today.
they fit perfectly and makes the dog bones fit nice and snug. I didn't have enough for my wheel and side diff cups but thanks for the reminder I'll probably pick up some more later on today.
ORIGINAL: Captain_Nifty
I will be looking into your advice regarding the donuts...sounds like a good idea...
I will be looking into your advice regarding the donuts...sounds like a good idea...
06-14-2006, 02:23 AM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
ya, i personnally find the 'donuts' make a big difference in removing unnessary slop out of the drive train. definatly a cheap and efficiant way to upgrade your car.
as far as the suspension oil goes, i just like the suppleness that i get with the 20wt. i find that i like my suspension to be more reactive to bumps instead of being bounced around. I never even used anything heavier then 35wt. in my downhill bike when i raced, so i find anything more then that in my car to be overkill. i just follow the rule that your suspension should do its job. i would probably increase the weight if i where to switch over to running rally tires and driving offroad. but otherwise i just like the feel of the lighter weight. remeber these cars are 1/10th the scale of the real thing, and even a real car would soak up small bumps at a slower speed, not bounce or roll over them without a reaction in the suspension. oh well, to each there own. im finding the more and more i get involved in rc, the more and more i realize its about as much as what you feel as what is recommended. sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt.
as far as the suspension oil goes, i just like the suppleness that i get with the 20wt. i find that i like my suspension to be more reactive to bumps instead of being bounced around. I never even used anything heavier then 35wt. in my downhill bike when i raced, so i find anything more then that in my car to be overkill. i just follow the rule that your suspension should do its job. i would probably increase the weight if i where to switch over to running rally tires and driving offroad. but otherwise i just like the feel of the lighter weight. remeber these cars are 1/10th the scale of the real thing, and even a real car would soak up small bumps at a slower speed, not bounce or roll over them without a reaction in the suspension. oh well, to each there own. im finding the more and more i get involved in rc, the more and more i realize its about as much as what you feel as what is recommended. sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt.
06-14-2006, 02:28 AM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
and capt., i believe you will have the most success with using hpi diff cups as replacements. when i had my rs4 in pieces, i took alook at some of the parts and they look to be pretty much a dead ringer for a replacement. i have noticed that our cars are almost part hpi (as far as drivetrain and engine are concerned) and part AE/Tamiya for suspension and wheels........hey whatever fits or can be made to fit with alittle brute force and ignorance.......
06-14-2006, 10:20 AM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
I bought my son a Smartech Commando last week, just started running it in. little dissapointed to find the front right drive shaft is slightly bent making the wheel vibrate. I know its just a cheap R/C car but the quality control could be a little better.
06-14-2006, 10:23 AM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Was it a used commando? My rear was bent from a high-speed wreck, but I bent it back and it runs ok. I'm looking to get the universal shafts to replace the dogbone / axel combo.
06-14-2006, 10:49 AM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
i got the reply from them damm the parts are cheap but they onli accept money tranfer not pay pal so its to much truble for me.. so if u guy wana give it a go here the quote i got from them..
INVOICE
TO SOUTH AUSTRIALia DATE: 14-Jun-06
PI. NO. SO-260360
REF. NO.
ATTN p p
SHIPPED PER EXPRESS SAILING 20-Jun-06
FROM FACTORY TO: SOUTH AUSTRIALia
ORDER NO. PAYMENT: T/T IN ADVANCE
ITEM NO. DESCRIPTION QTY(PCS) UNIT PRICE AMOUNT
45069 CLUTCH GEAR 2 US$1.20 US$2.40
45061 WHEEL SHAFT 2 US$0.95 US$1.90
11440 BRAKE DISC 1 US$0.50 US$0.50
11297 FRONT SHOCK TOWER 2 US$0.50 US$1.00
45016 FRONT UPPER SUSPENSION ARM LEFT 2 US$0.30 US$0.60
45017 REAR LOWER SUSPENSION ARMRIGHT 2 US$0.30 US$0.60
45022 FRONT UPPER SUSPENSION ARM RIGHT 2 US$0.30 US$0.60
45025 REAR LOWER SUSPENSION ARM LEFT 2 US$0.35 US$0.70
45024 REAR WHEEL SHAFT MOUNT 2 US$0.45 US$0.90
002147 ROLLING BEARING 2 US$0.65 US$1.30
45023 TURNING ARM LEFT AND RIGHT 2 US$0.45 US$0.90
11287 FRONT SUSPENSION ARM A 2 US$0.50 US$1.00
11303 OIL TANK 1 US$0.90 US$0.90
45076 CLUTCH FRICTION SET 1 US$0.40 US$0.40
45071 CLUTCH GEAR AND CLUTCH FRICTION 1 US$1.35 US$1.35
11355 AIR FILTER SPONG 1 US$0.45 US$0.45
SUMMARY 27 US$15.50
SAY TOTAL US DOLLARS FIFTEEN AND CENTS FIFTY ONLY.
ADV.BANK BENE. NAME :
CHANG HWA COMMERCIAL BANK LTD PERFECT TOYS INTERNATIONAL CO,LTD
HONG KONG BRANCH RM203 WAH LAI INDUSTRIAL CENTRE,
SWIFT:CCBCHKHH 10-14 KWEI TEI ST, FO TAN,SHATIN,HONG KONG
A/C NO.:219-220069887
ACCEPT BY :
INVOICE
TO SOUTH AUSTRIALia DATE: 14-Jun-06
PI. NO. SO-260360
REF. NO.
ATTN p p
SHIPPED PER EXPRESS SAILING 20-Jun-06
FROM FACTORY TO: SOUTH AUSTRIALia
ORDER NO. PAYMENT: T/T IN ADVANCE
ITEM NO. DESCRIPTION QTY(PCS) UNIT PRICE AMOUNT
45069 CLUTCH GEAR 2 US$1.20 US$2.40
45061 WHEEL SHAFT 2 US$0.95 US$1.90
11440 BRAKE DISC 1 US$0.50 US$0.50
11297 FRONT SHOCK TOWER 2 US$0.50 US$1.00
45016 FRONT UPPER SUSPENSION ARM LEFT 2 US$0.30 US$0.60
45017 REAR LOWER SUSPENSION ARMRIGHT 2 US$0.30 US$0.60
45022 FRONT UPPER SUSPENSION ARM RIGHT 2 US$0.30 US$0.60
45025 REAR LOWER SUSPENSION ARM LEFT 2 US$0.35 US$0.70
45024 REAR WHEEL SHAFT MOUNT 2 US$0.45 US$0.90
002147 ROLLING BEARING 2 US$0.65 US$1.30
45023 TURNING ARM LEFT AND RIGHT 2 US$0.45 US$0.90
11287 FRONT SUSPENSION ARM A 2 US$0.50 US$1.00
11303 OIL TANK 1 US$0.90 US$0.90
45076 CLUTCH FRICTION SET 1 US$0.40 US$0.40
45071 CLUTCH GEAR AND CLUTCH FRICTION 1 US$1.35 US$1.35
11355 AIR FILTER SPONG 1 US$0.45 US$0.45
SUMMARY 27 US$15.50
SAY TOTAL US DOLLARS FIFTEEN AND CENTS FIFTY ONLY.
ADV.BANK BENE. NAME :
CHANG HWA COMMERCIAL BANK LTD PERFECT TOYS INTERNATIONAL CO,LTD
HONG KONG BRANCH RM203 WAH LAI INDUSTRIAL CENTRE,
SWIFT:CCBCHKHH 10-14 KWEI TEI ST, FO TAN,SHATIN,HONG KONG
A/C NO.:219-220069887
ACCEPT BY :
06-14-2006, 10:54 AM
#2765
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
opps it doesnt look right well every think is under $1 and also under 50 cents but most of them on my quote are for two of each
06-14-2006, 12:47 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
well, spank me on the bum and call me a monkey...thats freakin cheap, and what about shipping?.....even if shipping would only be $15USD, its still worth while......regardless, im going to place an order and see what they say. maybe we could do a bulk order for the canuk crew...watcha guys think?...anyone need spares? cause i could use a few.
06-14-2006, 02:30 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Hmmmm... Those are very very good prices. I wonder how easy it would be to set up an online buisiness that caters to smartech, acme, and FMT owners. provided as long as Smartech can supply the parts on a timely basis. it can eventually grow into a major supplier for Canada and the USA. hell even adding $1 to each of the prices listed. you would still turn a decent profit.
Boltech RC Imports / parts
has a nice ring to it
Boltech RC Imports / parts
has a nice ring to it
06-14-2006, 02:49 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Good point.. However being an importer and exporter ( no not latex, for your sienfeld fans) Keep in mind you still have a quite of few costs that come with importation.. TT Transfer, Customs Broker, Duties or VAT and a few other flat fee charges not based on cost. Do not forget Ocean or Air Freight from China too.. A $1 sounds great and could help alot of us out, but it may not be enough. It seems that most people are bringing these goods with some other business that they do. I picked up mine from a company that imports something completly un-realted and just decided to try these Smartech's too..
Best of luck..
Best of luck..
06-14-2006, 03:31 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
yeah that was the total price including postage, if u guy wana give a crack at it i posted the email before, it will cost me up to 37 dollars thats with the tranfers n fees at my bank i think its still a good deal but at the moment i have bills to pay so im tying to make an order maybe next month...i ordered parts from rc mart last week i spent 65 dollars and it was only for a few parts[
] i should of done this eailer if i knew..
] i should of done this eailer if i knew..
06-14-2006, 03:33 PM
#2772
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
Have Linux bawks will travel!
ORIGINAL: imn0tnorml
Hey...that was my idea....I just have to enable the commerce module on my site and i'd be good to go...
Hey...that was my idea....I just have to enable the commerce module on my site and i'd be good to go...
06-14-2006, 03:36 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
I should plan my next vacation near where smatech is and bring back a suit case full of parts.
ORIGINAL: trd2nv
yeah that was the total price including postage, if u guy wana give a crack at it i posted the email before, it will cost me up to 37 dollars thats with the tranfers n fees at my bank i think its still a good deal but at the moment i have bills to pay so im tying to make an order maybe next month...i ordered parts from rc mart last week i spent 65 dollars and it was only for a few parts[] i should of done this eailer if i knew..
yeah that was the total price including postage, if u guy wana give a crack at it i posted the email before, it will cost me up to 37 dollars thats with the tranfers n fees at my bank i think its still a good deal but at the moment i have bills to pay so im tying to make an order maybe next month...i ordered parts from rc mart last week i spent 65 dollars and it was only for a few parts[
] i should of done this eailer if i knew..
06-14-2006, 03:45 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
i would do the same if i went to china, thats a big if ohh by the way how long did u guys have to wait to get things from rc mart...and im from australia, im still waiting for the fuel tank n other spares parts i havnt played with my smartech in fews [:@] and im on holidays
06-14-2006, 03:49 PM
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RE: Official Smartech Thread
I have been to factories in China and although the people may look like the Canadians in Vancouver, It is a world unlike any other I have ever seen... The cities are fine but when you venture to where the factories are.. You may wish you never left home.. If you want to make the eventure.. I get you the invite into the country you will need.. For a few parts of course..
Take care.. No Harm meant to anyone and If I offended let me apoligize in advance. all fun here..
Take care.. No Harm meant to anyone and If I offended let me apoligize in advance. all fun here..
ORIGINAL: boltech
I should plan my next vacation near where smatech is and bring back a suit case full of parts.
I should plan my next vacation near where smatech is and bring back a suit case full of parts.
ORIGINAL: trd2nv
yeah that was the total price including postage, if u guy wana give a crack at it i posted the email before, it will cost me up to 37 dollars thats with the tranfers n fees at my bank i think its still a good deal but at the moment i have bills to pay so im tying to make an order maybe next month...i ordered parts from rc mart last week i spent 65 dollars and it was only for a few parts[] i should of done this eailer if i knew..
yeah that was the total price including postage, if u guy wana give a crack at it i posted the email before, it will cost me up to 37 dollars thats with the tranfers n fees at my bank i think its still a good deal but at the moment i have bills to pay so im tying to make an order maybe next month...i ordered parts from rc mart last week i spent 65 dollars and it was only for a few parts[
] i should of done this eailer if i knew..