hibityhupla

I got mine for $145 but I haven't even taken it out of the package yet. I'm waiting for my r40 to show up. I guess a lot of people think it's cheating because it makes cornering so easy. sounds cool anyway.

GYNAIKAS

OMG! It's very expensive!!! Well I think that little slidings when on track are warm wellcome...just can't afford it (imagina that it probably costs 200+ euros here in greece...)!!!

hibityhupla

I found it through hpiracing.com under parts for the r40. Shouldn't be that bad the U.S. dollar isn't worth the paper it's printed on anymore. I would check a currency conversion. I think our dollar is worth less then it ever has.

GYNAIKAS

Yes but we have EXTREMELY high taxes here...If me or a distributor here orders one part from HPI, by the time it will arrive here to me/him the product's price will have gone 40%-50% up...[]

hibityhupla

What if you went through ebay? I found a couple on there too. hopmeup has one for under $100.

GYNAIKAS

I dont know...I heared foxy saying he had much trouble with one of his orders...

hibityhupla

I've ordered through him before and never had a problem. I saw the shipping was like $14 to Greece. I can't tell you for sure if it would be a hassle but I order from different countries all the time and at worst I have to wait a few days more then I would like. For some reason it takes longer for me to get something from Canada then it does from Hong Kong. Doesn't really make sense when I live right on the Canadian border.

Racingdm3

i need help please. i striped the main gear in my rc car. i don't know where i can get the part need to fix this problem. i have the model number 10142 HELP ME PLEASE

roystben

smartechracing.com

hibityhupla

check out bensrc.com

R.lepecha

i have magic wheel it great just ordered some metal geared servos as the smartech one arnt very good also made a fuel tank protecter and servo guard out of 2 mm aluminion i had spare

ferrarimk13

hey gynaikas, its not really an anti sliding device, because it was first made for drifting, to assist you with keeping the slide smooth, and controllable, but then they said it helps with racing too, and turning ("D"- Box, drifting get it? lol)

GYNAIKAS

I know what it's made for and that D is for drifting. I know how exactly it works since it's a gyroscopic device. But I'd like to know if it's control parameters (PID parameters) are sensitive enough to help on track. So has anyone tested it with track setup on a 1:10 sport car (18ss, ntc3, EVO etc)???

hibityhupla

Hey guys, what's the smallest 2ch 27mhz receiver you know of? Mine in my 1/16 buggy is shot.

docnitro

Hey guys,,,My name is Patrick Banks in Morehead Ky. I am the National sales manager for smartech and Nutech. I am also the team racing manager. Please feel free to ask me any questions. I will have a full service center open by the first of the year with full parts support.

crashingisnormal

I need help with my smartech winner pro

Long story short.
Got my car, looked at how it was built etc etc
put a drop of fuel directly into the air intake, started up then died after 3 seconds.
Did this many times... I have to really FORCE the fuel into the engine, I have no idea what the problem is because the high-end/high-speed needle it almost completely unscrewed
help please

GYNAIKAS

Your problem is air leak at the fuel tank or the fuel line. Check it. Also leak might be comming from the engine...also check these spots:

(the pic is from the 18ss manual but all engines are similar)

crashingisnormal

how would I check those parts for 'leaks' ?

R.lepecha

search how to check for air leaks in a rc car engine in google

GYNAIKAS

There are many methods. You can flood the engine with fuel and pullstart several times. If fuel comes out of one of the spots I mentioned then you have a leak ( I don't recomend this cause if you are not experienced you can cause a "hydravlic" effect and damage the engine. You can check for fuel tank and line leaks by simply pinching the one line and blowing air in the other (te fuel tank should be empty!!!). If you can't blow air then it's well sealed, if not then it leaks somewhere. You can find where the leak comes from if you sink the tank into water, do the same thing and watch from where the bubles come of.

Dkishton1486

OK well I have a 1/10 scale Smartech nitro car. The car runs great except for its on its 3rd set of tranny gears. When I install new gears I do space them properly and make sure theres no gaps at all and it still burns through the gears like crazy only had the car for 3 months now. Do they make a stronger gear for these cars? Or know of another tpe from a different car I can use these gears are expensive they go for around $10 a pop. I tried the Traxas T-Maxx gears but there too small. Any help would be appriciated

GYNAIKAS

Check your other thread again...you should leave some small gap between them...that's why always get burned.

JonesE

I'm slowly making my way through this thread but I am looking for some help with my smartech 10145 model. The clutch doesn't seem to engage so even when I give it throttle, the clutch bell will not spin. If I gently increase speed SOMETIMES the clutch will grab and I can drive it around at a constant speed but if I try to increase speed, the car will roll to a stop and the engine screams. I checked the 2 tranny gears and they don't seem to be worn out. Do I need a new clutch? will a better clutch fito n my car from a different model?

GYNAIKAS

As I already said to your other thread, clutch may not engage (stucks somewhere) or the shoes are history....[&:]

hibityhupla

Dkishton1486
If you get the gear sets from redcatracing.com for the tornado bb or lightning you just take the guts out of theirs and put them in your tranny case. Same quality unfortunately, but cheaper and if you go with the 2-speed set from the lightning you will pick up some top speed. Buy the whole tranny to start with because it is a little different design. It's still cheaper though, it's under $20 for the complete redcat trannies.
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JonesE
The only way to tell is to take the bell off and check out the clutch. Without doing that first any help would be like the blind leading the blind. My guess would be it's either burnt up or broke.
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crashingisnormal
Check for compression. Turn the engine over by turning it at the flywheel with your finger tips. Does it have resistance??? If not or If very little then go on to check for the air leaks like said. If it has good compression there is no leak and you'll need to start checking fuel lines, carb.....