Thanks for the links Nick,

Is anyone running a droop setup on a wk. How do you set them up?

What, you looking to start trouble???? lol I'l give ya trouble if ya want it!!!

I'm looking to create a smaller package using gears from the oem tranny since it is a WK based tuber, I wanna keep as much WK as I can. Besides, I wanna see if I can do it!! I have a couple CNC's at my disposal and since my job title includes Technical Supervisor I can "test" new programs and technics lol mmuuaaahhhaahhaa!!!

Oh btw I ca get Delrine sheets, rod, and tube locally at a plastics shop..

And I use AutoCAD 2007,, and go directly to machine code with our proprietary add-on for AutoCAD. Maybe I will post the code for the tranny if I remember to save it to my thumbdrive!!

hi guys
well we went climbing last sunday truck really took a beating but the wk and the new set of wheels that dogman said to use really work out great thanks dogman ,they climb good on rock and hard drit with small rocks ,i would like to get a better set of shocks i blew one on some bad falls and the rods kept pulling out of the plactic rods that goes from the frame to the axles i aslo would like to move the battery to the front how can i do this,plactic ties to the rods in front? anyways i fogot the camara so no picture until next week thanks rye

they all look sweet . this is min all stock . i got more plan for it down the road

has anyone had problems with the tranny i havent just wondering if there are any faults with it

Reaper,

Yes many people have had problems with the transmision "clicking" when the two spring loaded gears inside slip past eack other as the tranny is loaded heavily. I would guess that this was designed in to facilitate reverse to forward wheelies, and due to the fact that a traditional slipper would slip to much this featuture was designed in. You can look at the parts breakdown in the instructions to see what I am talking about. I like you have had no trouble and from what I have read it only occurs under a high load, most people who have had trouble are using them as hopped up higher speed bashers or as larger wheelbase(15-17+ inches) are the majority of the people though some others had the same problem.

Back to my project status I finally got around to finishing the links and axle plates tonight and got in all mounted up. I also got the brushless motor I mentioned mounted and wired. Unfortunately I miss-calculated and now have a 13 inch wheel base[sm=omg_smile.gif],oops. also I lost one of my stub axles[:@], the damndest thing is I just saw it like 2 hours ago. Maybe I will find it tommorow when I shorten those links. Well one step closer I guess.

To Do:
Mount shocks
Complete tube chassis(cab)
Setup steering servo mount and linkage
Lock rear steer
Mount up electronics
Make body panels

Most of the had stuff is out of the way, here are some new pics.

I almost forgot I waterproofed my servo and esc. I used Dielectric grease for the servo and plasti-dip for my esc.

Your ESC looks like a Mamba 25............it was waterproof from the factory

Whoa Whoa Whoa! Since when is it water proof. I would think that that would be advertised or stated somewhere I just checked Castles web site Horizon and Tower, none make any mention of it being waterproof. Further more I was recently running one of my boats and flipped it, the boat filled with water and when it returned to shore the esc was no longer working. [sm=confused.gif]

Well I just saw the video with the mamba underwater. However I assure you that that one of mine was fried by water when in use in my boat. There was no other reason for it to fry I did not over-amp it or anything and it was not the motor or RX. I replaced only the ESC and every thing works again. I agree that there is a positive case out there for it being waterproof. But I assure you all I fried mine in this manner.

Whatever I still feel more comfortable with a extra layer of protection.

That's the only thing that matters!! I am curious to see how the plastic-dip holds up, I would think a liquid silicone would be more suitable(Flexable, Heat restistant ect..)

Great job!!

Yeah well I am not really impressed with it so far it has kind of peeled back from the silicone wires[&o]. But it seems to be tough. The other problem is heat. I have always had problems with these overheating on me when I use large servos. I had this in a micro rs4 prior. I powered it up once so far and it got really hot really fast. I guess with the coating it keeps out all the air and therfore all the cooling. As far as the dip goes I saw another guy use it on a forum and he said it worked well so iIdecided to give it a shot. I will keep you posted. I also was not aware that a liquid silicone exsited that would be apropriate, I only can think of silicone caulk which is way to thick to be workable unless you could thin it, but with what? What kind of silicone are you talking about and where can I get some? I am willing to try anything and I have many more aplications, plus like I said I am not to thrilled with the dip's performance so far.

Try this vendor, they several different types

[link=http://www.smooth-on.com/liqrubr.htm]Liquid Rubber and Mold Rubber By Smooth-on[/link]

You can also try any of [link=http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=79]these[/link] for waterproofing. Number 3 seems to work well.

The ESC is overheating because the servo's draw more amps than the BEC can provide. A solution would be a receiver pack or an external BEC. [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=CSECCBEC]This[/link] BEC is one of the best to date and it isnt too pricey either.

Dont use "normal" silicon sealant. That vinegar smell you smell when you apply silicon sealant? That's acetic acid, its corrosive, bad for electronics... If you can find an electronics grade silicon sealant (neutral cure) thas OK (it wont have the vinegar smell). But honestly, I cant see any kind of liquid rubber working out well for an ESC since the rubber will hold in heat and thats bad for ESC's...
many people have had good luck with a product called Corrosion-X... its a spray thats made to stop corrosion... but works great to waterproof electronics without a thick coating and the associated heat buildup...
Here is a silicon sealant made for electronics http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/422a.html (click on "where to buy" at the top if you want to buy some...

Well I am glad I found this thread.

I have a few questions about these trucks as I decided to order one last night.


As far as stretching the wheelbase goes, I saw that writeup on HPI about using the E-Savage shafts but nobody seems to have those in stock. I also saw where a few folks used some Emaxx yokes or something .... would these work or am I looking at the wrong thing:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSP55&P=M
If those are the right shafts, do I need to change the output on the tranny or input on the axles or will those fit to the WK u-joints?


For those that have moved the servo to the top of the front axle ..... why? Was that just to allow you to move the battery to the front?


Has anyone stretched theirs and not moved the servo to the front axle? If so, what did you do to lengthen the steering link to the front axle?


Would the ESC that comes in the kit be able to do any crawling if I swapped in a 55t motor with 15t pinion & 96t spur, or do I need to get something like a novak rooster crawler?


Thanks guys

Yo locked up,

You have a few options on those drive shafts. The ones that you linked will work. That is what I run on my truck. You have a few other options. I have been told that you can pull the yokes off the WK drive shafts and they will work with the Maxx drive shafts. I have not tried this though so can't promise anything. I bought maxx yokes with the drive shafts. Here is a link.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDDS6&P=ML

MAKE SURE YOU GET THOSE ONES AND NOT THE ONES FOR THE TRANSMISSION. The transmission yokes are 5mm and won't fit.

The reason for moving the servo on the axle is you eliminate linkages and get a more direct movement from your servo. This gives you a lot better steering.

When I first made my truck I stretched the stock steering link and left the servo on the chassis because I didn't like the look of the servo on the axle. You WILL need to upgrade servos if you want decent steering. I think I used 4-40 all thread and the stock rod ends to stretch it. Then I sleeved the all thread with aluminum.

Yes the stock ESC works fine with a 55t lathe. I'm running that setup in one of my trucks actually.

Awesome, thanks.

So you bought those driveshafts I pointed to along with the yokes you pointed to ... right?


Any recommendations for the servo?

Yes those links posted above are exactly what I bought.

Here is what I run for a servo in almost all of my trucks. This guy is great to work with. Tell him NickRummy sent you over if you order something. You can't beat $20 for a 200oz servo with ball bearings and metal gears!

http://www.jpcustomrcs.atomicshops.c...75/4462001.htm

He also has the metal servo horns for that servo too. He even carries the casings for them. (I just bought two)

Would you suggest the long or short metal horn? Or does it depend on if I leave the servo in the stock location or move it to the axle?

Thanks a lot Nick.

Honestly, just use the composite one they give you with the servo. They are really strong as is. Plus they have a lot of holes to chose from. You won't really know how long it needs to be until you get your steering setup.

If you REALLY want the aluminum you can measure the one on the WK right now. I think they go by the measurement from the center of the servo horn (where it mounts on servo) to the center of the hole that the link mounts to. If I had to guess I would say the shorter is the one you would want.

This is my wheely king I used the widow chassis template for the chassis.

Has anyone had problems with the axle hexes stripping out or slipping? I cracked the hub of one of my axial wheels[:@]and am not to happy. I had to glue the hexes into the wheel to keep them from slipping. My AX-10 has not started to slip yet but the wheels have a little slop already. I always make sure to tighten down the wheel nut really good too. Argh!![:@][:@][:@]

it's a pretty common problem actually. I just epoxied my wheel hexes in and problem solved.

Thats is the only solution I could think of but I dont want to do it with aluminum hexes like on the AX-10 . With the plastic ones over time the pins have begun to really dig in to the hexes glued in to the wheels on my wheely king and I am afraid they may soon wear out. I really wish that some one made bigger hexes and wheels with bigger hubs for the 2.2 wheels kind of like pro-lines 23mm heses for monster trucks. oh well I guess I will just make this work for now.