summerwind

Glen just sent me a message back.

"The 1/4 scale Dr1 was the first kit we ever did. We
are working on bringing that kit from the 1990s to 2010
technology. Meaning updating some areas and the construction
manual. We are trying to have it ready early next year, I
would say Feb."


the dimensions of this 1/4 version allow me to build a carry box that will fit nicely into the back of my Rado.

in a few months i will be very much ready for GTM's new kit....................still can't pick between the friggin wheels tho[>:]

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

summy,
My bud flies his with an OS160 twin. It's close to the perfect engine for that plane. It sounds and runs great.

I have the 1/4 DVI on the way from Glenn. My bud and I are each building one. Both with the Glenns fabric. We have Laser 200's that will power the plane.

The challenge is to have them built and flyable in two months! We shall see.

Wheels, I can ask my friend who's wheels he used. I haven't noticed that they look out of scale.

summerwind

thx Bob

i definately will use either the OS or the Laser for Glenn's DR1.

i have had both engines and ran the OS........could not believe how smooth it ran. i swear you could stand a nickel on edge on the crankcase without it moving

never ran the laser 200 i had. both being the same price though makes the Laser the best choice.
have you run your 200 yet?
curious about the vibration levels.

abufletcher

But promise us, that you're going to FLY this one!

summerwind

i have to.......i have no excuses for not getting it to the field.
believe me, letting the N28 go was a hard long thought out decision. even the wife was mad at me for doing so.

summerwind

does anyone have a set of the Williams bros 6 5/8" vintage wheels that they can weigh and post ?

jtisch

I weighed one (1) WB wheel at 215 grams. It does have paint and bushings on it, but that should be pretty darn close.

summerwind

funny, i've owned 2 sets of this wheel and never once weighed them, and i weigh everything.....LOL

thx for taking the time, this tells me what i need to know.

summerwind

it's real tempting to buy GTM's 1/3 scale DR1. the way his model is built i can see why there is no issue with weight.
i'm still doing the USA DR1 and it will serve as a trainer basically.
keeping it light is priority, so i need to also find out how much Solartex (natural unpainted) wieghs in comparison to Koverall.
one additional choice is Chip Mulls Poly lite, so i need to find out how much it weighs too.

abufletcher

Just keep telling yourself: "The N28 would have been a hassle to transport. the N28 would have been a hassle to transport..do not, do not buy a 1/3 scale model!"

1bruno

If you go with the 1/4 BUSA DR1 I would put a 30 cc or 50cc in her, Mine started out with a Z 26 and I had no power to get out of trouble. It flys great with a DL50 in her. Take offs are a bit crazy and of course landings are always fun too. Eveyone has to have a Dr1 in their hanger.

(by the way that pic abu posted of the Dr1 is mine )
GB

1bruno

Check out Herbies Wheels
http://www.herbiewheels.de/index3.htm

abufletcher

Cool!

summerwind

Glen, thx for pointing this out.
i have been leaning towards the DLE 30 even though it is a lighter engine.
i realize the BUSA DR1 was designed with the G26 in mind, but i'm thinking with some careful posistioning of gear and care in keeping the rearend as light as possible, the DLE should work fine and add some boost to the margin of safety in the power department......that and the DLE will swing a larger prop.
just gotta see the plans first to see what all i need to do.

abufletcher

There was some talk about engine size on my 1/4 scale kits thread. If I remember correctly, several people commented that with their 1/4 scale DrI, they went with a larger engine. The G26 was a favorite for the smaller floater types like the Pup and the Nieuport 11.

Oh, and a Seidel 7-70 would fit just fine too!

summerwind

the Seidel 7-70 would be sweet in this plane.

deljon

My Feedback: (4)

Hey summerwind,
If you would decide to go with GTM's 1/3 Dr.1 you wouldn't be sorry. It's a great (and fun) build
and flyer. I know cause I built the first one. (prototype)
I first powered it with a Roto 70 twin, it flew the plane great when it ran, but continually had
ignition trouble.
Replaced it with GT80 twin with electronic ignition, what a differance. Had no starting or
running problems with it.
Just have to repair some OOPS damage and should be back in the air by spring.
Also have a BUSA with OS 160 twin, perfect match.
Later

Del Johnson

summerwind

hi Del,

hey i looked at each page of your build and if not for my transportation limits, i'd build the 1/3 DR1 in a heartbeat. your work was fantastic on that build.

i'm starting on a B USA DR1 right now and will do some serious bashing on it, but keep it light and i intend to use it as a trainer.

i talked to Glenn yesterday and am all set for the 1/4 DR1 when he produces them next spring.
by that time i will have had a good rest from building the last 2 Proctor kits and will be quite ready to take that bird on.
i'll be using either the 160 twin or a Laser 200V.............

abufletcher

Sounds like a very reasonable plan. I might suggest though that you only do "basic bashing" on the BUSA kit. Just the things you can't stand and just the things you can do quickly. Don't let yourself get "bogged down" on your tripe trainer. This is what I did with my Flair Puppeteer that I used as a practice plane for my Snipe. I changed the UC to be the same height and width as the Sniped (for better practice) and made some other quickie mods that went very quickly because I had just done almost the same thing on the Snipe. It took me 6 weeks total from start to maiden.

Here's the video again to encourage you to build fast, built fun!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Db4SEClA9-s[/youtube]

deljon

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks, if Glenn reconfigures the 1/4 scale to build like the 1/3, and I'm just guessing (haven't talked to him lately),
it will be a really good build. And knowing Glenn, he'll probably kick it up a notch or two.
In fact, I have the earlier kit still in the box, I may just sell it and get the new version myself.

I agree with Don on bashing the BUSA Dr.1, just do a few simple updates, then fly and have fun. If you use the
GTM alum cowl, it is if I remember about an inch shorter that the stock ABS cowl, so you will need to make an adjustment
for that. About all the extra I did with mine in addition to the cowl, I bungied the tail skid, If I did it again I would
probably bungie the mains also. And instead of covering the subwing with iron on, I used 1/64 ply. It may save a twig
from poking a hole in the wing plus looks better. In my full size van, I could get it in the side door without taking
it apart.

Don...Real nice video, great way to present your build.

Del

summerwind

i did go for the GTM cowl right off as seeing you guys and your finished version of the USA DR1's just screams cowl replacement.........i saw a GP DR1 once and the plastic cowl in the kit just makes it look funny to my eyes anyways.
i'll do the lower wing just like you said too, makes sense to add some spring in there since i fly mostly off asphalt runway.

summerwind

that's a cool video Don.
you are so right about going too deep in the detail department.
man i started thinking about rib stich and tape, and this and that and before i knew it, i was losing interest
looking at Del's and others mild bashing got things back on track though.............it is gonna be RED though........wife just loves the Red Baron.

deljon

My Feedback: (4)

BY ALL MEANS, KEEP SHE THAT MUST BE OBEYED HAPPY........
Besides, red is a great color.......

Del

abufletcher

Make a pact with her: THIS one will be red (it's going to be for fun anyway) but the NEXT one will be YOUR choice! If I were going to build the BUSA DrI as a prelude (and practice) for the GTM DrI, I would make the following mods:

1) Reduce the size of the rudder so you have roughly the same flying experience as on the more scale GTM model.
2. Make the UC the same height and width as the GTM model (that is "scale").
3. Absolutely replace the BUSA fixed axle with a sprung axle
4. Absolutely replace the fixed skid with a sprung skid.
5. Go for scale placement of the prop hub (so probably adding a recessed firewall)

What I would absolutely NOT do on the BUSA model:

1) Rib tapes (or anything else of a similar level of detailing)
2) Worry about "which wheels."

summerwind

the rudder is perfect Don.........what you talkin bout?

check on the springing of the skid and UC, but will wait till later to build and alternate UC.
the GTM cowl forces the prop back to almost exactly where it should be thus killing that GP DR1 look.

now the wheels are the deal breaker..............something tells me the Dubros are gonna get some real butt scrubin abuse tho[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]