geezeraviation

My Feedback: (3)

Ive never done a DVII but I have always been under the impression that the upper surfaces of both the top and bottom wings were built flat and any "dihedral was induced by the taper of the wings under surface. Joe Nietos drawings actually call for the upper center section to be flat on top with the bottom surface being parallel, then outboard of the cabanes the lower surface is showwn with 2 deg dihedral and the upper 1 deg of cathedral (anhedral). The lower wing is shown with 1 deg 20 min dihedral in the lower surface and tho upper to have 35 min of cathedral. If it were me I'd build the wings upside down and build them flat in that respect. Just my 2 cents.

geezeraviation

My Feedback: (3)

I have just read the Windsock Datafile on the Fok DVII and no mention was made in the text of dihedral (or lack thereof) but the three and four views all appear to be flat on top.
Doc

WacoNut

Thanks for the tips,
The instructions do call for the wing to be flat from tip to tip across the top of the wing. The center section is built flat and the outer panels are blocked up at the tip and joined to the center setion. This would be quite difficult to do upside down without alot of jigging.

I just looked at my 3 views and it does appear wing has dihedral on the bottom of the wing and anhedral on the top surface. I will build the outer panels per the plans but leave the root rib off. I will block the wings up at the tips and measure the dihedral and anhedral until I am satisfied and set the root rib 90deg to the build table. This should make a good match to the center section and set the proper angle. I will be able to calculate the angle for the dihedral brace from this.

I will post some pics when I get to that point.
Later!!
Anthony

Sal C.

Waco

Dihedral is formed by the tapered ribs. Both wings are flat on top.

All the best, Sal

WacoNut

Thanks Sal,

I have the right top panel framed up. I blocked up the end of the panel and then glued the root rib (W-2)in place 90 deg to the table.

I will easily be able to measure for the dihedral braces and draw them out for a template.

Later!!
Anthony

geezeraviation

My Feedback: (3)

Anthony, you're right building it upside down would be PITA but you could build the three panels and turn them upside down to join them.
Doc

WacoNut

I have the 1st panel sheeted and cap stripped and it is ready to bond to the center section.

I did find a problem with the rib templates. Ribs W-3 and W-9 are off in height by almost 1/8" (too tall) . I stacked these ribs for both panels and adjusted them from the bottom of the rib until the height was correct and I could sit a straight edge across the top of the wing panel and it contacted all the ribs. I already had all the ribs cut and wasn't about to give up on them. I hope I don't run into the same issue with the bottom wing.

I should be able to build the left panel tonight and the center section tomorrow and join them.

Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

I figured I had better go ahead and build the aileron before moving on to the other panel. It went together pretty good.

The construction is pretty much the same as the DRI and it is still fresh in my mind so this is moving along pretty good.

Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

The left panel is framed up and ready for sheeting and cap strips. I will knock that out tomorrow. I should be able to knock the wings out by the end of the month. I am looking forward to building the fuse.
Anthony

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

I looked at the instructions and it says this about the joining of the top wing.
Pin the center section down. Lay the outer panels in place and block up the tips approx. one inch at rib W-12. We say approx. because the idea is to set the dihedral so the wing is flat across the top at the high point of the airfoil.

For the lower wing it is blocked up approx. 5/8th of an inch at rib W-24. Again, the object is to get the top of the wing flat.

Hope that helps.

WacoNut

Hi jeffEE,
This is exactly what I did to set the angle of the root rib. Everything should come together fine when I join the panels.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

Both outer panels are completed and the center section is framed up. I shouldn't have any problem getting the panels joined today.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

So far so good, The wing panels are joined together. I will bond the ply dihedral braces in with epoxy. I hope to cap off the L/E tonight and give the wing a good rough sanding.
Anthony

WacoNut

The wing is now fully joined and cap stripped. The wing went together pretty well even with having the issue with the ribs.

This is about as large of a 1 picece wing I would want to have to try and carry out of the house and transport.
Later!!
Anthony

VincentJ

Looking good Anthony!

foodstick

I will never forget that feeling when I first took the top wing off the building board ... i furrowed my brow, leaned the wing back and forth. tilted my head to the side... then i walked over to the Balsa USA box to read the cover sticker again...

Then I said to myself , ARE YOU SURE THIS THING ISN"T THE 1/3 SCALE !!!!!!!!!

WacoNut

I hear ya I think you could skin and glass it and go surfing.

The L/E has been glued to the wing. I will let that cure until tomorrow evening then sand the L/E to shape. I am hoping to have the plane finished in May. This may be wishful thinking at this point. I would like to fly it this summer along with my DRI.
Later!!
Anthony

foodstick

Wait until you build that cowl, thats like framing up a 40 size plane. hahahahah well it seemed like it building without CA glue, so many parts, so many breaks waiting for glue to dry.

one of the biggest sighs of relief comes when all of the soldering is done...

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I have found in most 4 door sedans (full or midsize) I have owned I can fit up to a 84" single piece wing. I use this as a guide for limiting my choices in building scales. I was speaking with the owner of my LHS and he passed on this bit of good news. He is seeing a large substained increase sales in T-pin as well as other builder items. It is his belief more and more flyers are starting to embrace building their own aircraft instead of going with the current crop of available ARF, RTF, and BNF airplanes. Maybe this growth will spurr the manufacturers to offer more kits and maybe we will see a new renaissance for building? Wouldn't it be nice to go out to the local funfly and not see two aiplanes looking exactly the same?

As for you kids and your new fangled ideas, Waconut try keeping a bottle of rubber cement on your bench, it works great for taking down paper templetes to balsa for cutting shaped parts and you don't have to worry about overspray. I have used 3M 77 spray and still do but for small items I still go back to rubber cement. Add a small amount of tape around the cap and top of the jar to extend the life of the glue after opening and any residue rubs right off for a sticky free surface. I find cutting wing spars relaxing myself and have been known to cut two full sets just so I can build a spare wing or a second aircraft if I want two in different livery.

Mike

WacoNut

Thanks for the tips Mike,
Hauling the planes is not too much of an issue for me I have a 6x12 box trailer for my planes the biggest issue is getting them in and out of the basement.
I switch up between kit and plans building. I like building from plans but it all depends on the plans. I built a 25% Waco from plans and it was a PITA from the word go, I had to re-draw most of the wing ribs and correct several errors with the drawings before cutting the 1st piece of wood. I wouldn't build that plane again for anything but it is the plane I am most proud of. It took me 9 months and somewhere around 900hrs to complete. Hopefully the DVII just takes a fraction of that.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

The top wing has had the L/E capped and rough sanded. Turned out pretty good.

I have started on the bottom wing, unfortunately I had to make major adjustments to 5 ribs for the outer panel. I stacked the ribs from the other panel so they will be ready to install. Knowing what I know now I would have just bought the ribs from Balsa USA. Anyhow the bottom right outer panel is ready for the L/E sheeting and cap stripping.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

The bottom right panel is sheeted and cap stripped. The left panel is framed up and I ran out of 3/32 sheeting after sheeting the bottom of the L/E. I will have to pick up some more sheeting tomorrow.

I went ahead and framed up the bottom center section. I should be able to finish the wings off this week and start on the tail feathers.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

Looking at the tail feathers, the plans call for them to be framed up 3/8" thick. This seems way too fat IMO. I am thinking about using a 1/4 dowel for the L/E of the stab and a 5/16" dowel for a main spar. I will cut ribs to a scale profile. I was looking at making Fokker hinges but I don't think I am going to try it. I will use a 5/16" blasa T/E for the stab and L/E of the elevators and install Robart Hinges. I will laminate the elevator profile with strips of 1/16" balse and 1/32" ply. If this sounds like a bad idea let me know.

Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

The wings are now framed up, the bottom wing went together very well.

I am going to start on the fuse next. I picked up an ample supply of 1/4" x 48" poplar dowel rods to use for framing up the aft end of the fuse. I still need to cut all the formed part for the fuse beore I can start framing.

foodstick

I can't recall if I mentioned this earlier in the thread, but keep in mind you will probably need to add some lead, and build a tough strong chin cowl to hold it.. thats the one thing I would have done different if I was to do it over...