Looking good!

On Nieuport nut's<font size="4">Aviatik DI </font><font size="2">build thread (page 2 with pics) the use of JB Weld was talked about with reguard to the landing gear, some specific parts anyway, and the strength of the epoxy "weld" was praised as surviving some hard landings even if damaged it seems that it held up or was easily repaired.

So, <u>knowing how bad I will suck at silver soldering</u>, is the JB Weld in place of silver solder an option on this 1/5 scale SE5aor my 1/10 scale Phonix D.III? The Aviatik D1 is 1/4 or 1/3 scale.

1) Is JB Weld a viable option (pros / cons)?

2) Tell me the tools I will need for the silver solder and a link to a YouTube or forum with some good pics. (My search has shown me silver soldering for jewelry.)

3)Tell how much character I will build, IF I can not screw it up like I do electric soldering. (As opposed to how much confidence I might loose.)
</font><div style="margin-left: 40px"><font size="2">I always buy ElectriFly ESC and Lipos because I am willing to pay for the pre soldered connections. And I have tried several times and so far only have one Deans connector done and it looks like a blind monkey on crack did the soldering and is well covered under half a roll of electrical tape </font></div>

No. You absolutely NEED to learn how to do silver soldering if you want to do WWI modeling. Really, you can do it. JB Weld will NOT replace silver soldering. But it can be highly useful for certain task and I always have some on hand. For example, some designers use it as a way of fixing a music wire into the end of an aluminum tube. You couldn't do that with solder. It can also be great in place of regular epoxy when you need to shape the part after it's cured. Now I suppose, in principle you could slip two ends of a music wire into a tight-fixing metal tube and secure it all with JB Weld.

But really you HAVE TO learn to do silver soldering. Much better to just bit the bullet now.

Okay, thanks for answering 1) and 3) but what about question number 2) and some video's, pictures or a walk through? Is there another thread or can we start one on silver soldering?

I started the Silver Soldering for Dummies thread one level up in the Scale Forum.

And today's progress ... I finished the Top Center section !!!

Trying to finish up the wing panels and get the aileron's fitted, beveled and hinged.

1) Are these robart hinges one size too big? (only two per aileron.)

2) What is the most scale bevel to use on the aileron? (Wow, the full scale wing and aileron are sooo thin.)

3) Given the answer for #2, which is the best mounting position for the robart hinge? (see package diagrams)

Don't bevel the aileron. The LE should be rounded and the TE of the wing. If you look close to your photo you will see that there is a flange on the upper and lower surface of the wing TE that bridges the gap.

The ailerons aren't all that wide so two hinges per should be fine.

Don't mean to hijack the thread but...Bob H......what kit is your SE-5...or scratch?Nice job!!

dave

Thank you. It's a Duncan Hutson kit. He no longer makes kits but Traplett (uk) sells them.

The kit is very scale and very basic. You need to add all the detailing yourself.

I thought it might be a Hutson kit.I had one ,years ago,that i never finished it and sold it at a auction(dumb move)...but i was burnt out on building and got rid of it.I now have a stand "way off" scale Rich Uravitch SE-5 ...77" wingspan w/G38.Actually i'm rebuiilding it from a previous owners crash but i was original owner/builder.
The Hutson kit was pretty nice kit.

Dave

Well, I have been trying soooo hard to finish these wings. I have all of the panels finshed, ailerons beveled, and one of them installed. I am so lousy at drilling straight, I liked the thought of the robart hinge, first time trying them. I learned the need to add balsa for the entire length of the hinge to be installed into. So all of the ailerons have been fitted with balsa blocks anddrilled. Idid get one wing setup and installed but it looksreal bad. So tonight I am trying another but this time instead of drilling with a big drill and bit I am going to try using a small file to do the drilling slowly and by hand. It can't be much worse than this!

The first pic is of the aileron with the robart in position, the second shows my low tech, make it work, CA and scraps. The 3rd picture shows how I used a tooth pic and epoxy to make atype of rivet to ensure the servo blocks will hold. The other wing shows my added balsa to the two ribs that are notched for the upper wing servos. I upgraded from Futaba 3003 to 3010's for the aileron servos for the extra torque to drive both ailerons on one servo. This mod elminates the need for servos in all four wing panelsand for ugly Y connectors running down the spar from the upper panel and lets me use a more scale pushrod to connect the upper and lower ailerons.

Remember this is my 3rd RC build (Falcon 56 when I was 17, the Four Star shown earlier in the thread).

Well, it did work better but mostly I used a small phillips screw driver and then the drill bits by hand in this soft balsa. I should be able to do the last two tomorrow night

You're making good progress. Just remember that you can almost always get away with "less" of everything (less wood, less glue...and ultimately less weight and less time) that you might think is the case. So, for example, it looks like you've got little "reinforcement blocks on your reinforcement blocks."

The reinforcement blocks on the reinforcement blocks where to make more stable joints, But point taken and I did a little chop job on the reinforcement blocks that where not used in the robart hinge. I listen !!!

This is a crazy long shot, but would anyone who has built the Dynaflite SE5A happen to have the plans that they aren’t using anymore?
I started building a Dynaflite SE-5A around 15 years ago. The build went on hold due to family/military obligations. I want to complete the build now but it appears the plans have gone missing over many moves. I would be more than happy to pay for shipping or even to have them scanned so I could get a copy printed. Thank you for your help.