Got to do the maiden flight on my EAA Bipe this weekend. Needed some elevator trim and just a bit of aileron trim, but flew fine after that. Definitely needs rudder in the turns, and could use more aileron. It will roll only with difficulty. Takeoff runs need some rudder to keep it headed straight, and landings require power. The sink rate is much greater than most of the sport-type planes I'm used to flying.

Overall, I would say it looks better than it flies, but it will be back out again soon after a few minor adjustments. Here are pictures.

Hi Waagbuck,

Good to hear the maiden went well, that is a beautiful aircraft! Have you worked out the problems you had before? Keep us in the know. I've got one to get to someday. Ben

Waagbuck
What engine are you using? Looks like a nice plane ..
Sam

I've one of these and I've found that adding ailerons to the top wing helps tremendously with roll rate. It is a good flying plane but as stated...it's no Pitts or Ultimate.

I see I am kind of late getting into this, but am building and old EAA biplane kit that I have had since 1992. Just dusting it off and starting on the fuse. Now that I am more than halfway done with the fuse, I see that I maybe should have shortened the nose a bit. I don't have a motor for it yet. I was thinking of an OS 120 surpass. Any thoughts on that? I was also thinking of making a removable hatch on the top of the nose to make fuel tank more accessable. Any thoughts on that. I sure like the looks of the finished plane. This will be my first Bipe. Somewhat of a challenging build for me. But am enjoying it. Any help would be appreciated.

dbair,

You again? :-) Seriously, from my experience, I would think that shortening the nose 1.5" would be a good starting point. That may screw up the cowl though. When I shortened mine 3", I built a new one. Half that distance may allow you to work with the kit supplied unit ... if you can stomack the plastic.

I put my hatch for the same purpose in the bottom. The flat surface is easier to deal with, and out of sight. The top would be a real pain to turn into a hatch.

Have fun!

Bedford

The hatch on the bottom is a good idea. I was thinking about that too. I already have the firewall in, basicly have the bottom half of the fuse built. But now now is the time to change the fire wall, before I go any further. I think I will take an 1-1/2" off as you suggested. From what I have been reading, that is a good Idea. Thanks for your quick response. I haven't built a kit since about 1995ish. So kind of learning all over again. But still having fun! What do you think about wheel pants and do you think that 4" wheels are important? Or can I get away with something a little smaller?
Thanks.
db

db,

I moved my firewall after the plane was completed and flown for a while. It is not a big chore. Since you are still in contruction, you can probably shape the front end to match the cowl without a problem.

Wheel pants are a matter of taste. I think they add nicely to the look, but on some fields they can be a liability. I tried smaller wheels on mine and it just did not look right at all. Pants will cover for undersized wheels, and if your runway surface is very smooth, or even paved, it should work out very well.

Don't light a match to it yet!

Bedford

beepee,
I is nice to talk to someone that has already done one of these. I really appreciate your advice. From other stuff that I have read, I think I will go ahead and put 4 alerons on it too. I would like it to be somewhat aerobatic. It has been along time since I have flown anything, but I am sure I will get back into the swing of things faily quickly. I probably won't start with the bipe first. I will work up to it. I just enjoy building.
Thanks again.
db

Hello There, I just discovered this thread and couldn't resist participating. I just ordered my 4th EAA from Balsa USA. My first one I removed 1.5 inches from the nose, the second one, I removed 3 inches from the nose. The third one I removed the front bay completely. The third one flew the best, however I do not have any pictures of it since it was lost in a dogfight with a 1/4 scale pitts. The first two I put a hatch on the top, which worked great for access to the fuel tank and battery pack. I also extended the lower ailerons the full lengh of the lower wing. this made the roll rate exceptionally quick. All three of these were experimental, and now the 4th one will be my finished version. I'll let you know if I come up with any new modifications. Best of luck with your plane.

Videohiediho,
Thanks for the reply. I will take all of the advise I can get. I think the full length Ailerons are a good a idea. That might be easier than modifying both wings. When you said you removed the front bay altogether what did you mean? The whole compartment where the fuel tank would usually sit? How much did that take away of the total lenght of the fuse?Does that put the motor under the top wing? I actually have not been doing too much building lately. I have been a little side tracked. But am ready to get back on it.
Thanks again,
dbair

Hello again dbair

Here is a little more detailed description of my modifications. I first moved the rear former of the front bay where the gas tank would normally sit, ahead 1.5 inches then cut off the rest of the nose, and glued my firewall in place. The finished product more closely resembled the nose of a newport 17. I bought new wire for the landing gear to extend it 1.5 inches longer than the original, and swept it forward at the wheels 1.5 inches. This moved the weight of the wheels forward to help compensate for the weight shift in moving the engine back. I made my tail feathers from 1/4 inch stick, instead of the sheeted ones that came in the kit, also to compenstate for the weight shift. I used nyrod for the tail surface controls, instead of the wire, which also helped to reduce the tail weight. My final weight compensation item was to use 1/2 inch larger wheels than the plan calls for. I believe I had to add approximately 4 or 5 0z of weight to the nose for final balance. The final all up weight was just under 7 lbs. I am a firm believer in building light. I flew this plane with a K&B 65 sportster, which is the same one on the float plane in the photo, It could have used a little more power. I eventually put a super tiger 60 on it which worked better. I made the cowl out of the lower third of a fuel jug. The same as I did on the tan one in the photo. My final modification was to make the ailerons extend from the first rib outside the fuselage, out to the wing tip. This plane flew very well and was very airobatic. The one I am about to build will have a saito 65 four sroke, with a 12 x 8 or 13 x 8 prop on it. If you don't want to get into all of that extra work, and expense, then just shorten the nose up a couple of inches, which is what I did on the float plane in the photo. This still allowed me to use the original cowl, and still gave the plane a nice overall look. However I do recomend that you extend the landing gear 1 to 1 1/2 inches in lenght and add a 1/2 inch larger wheel than called for. I do this on all of my planes, and it makes them much better on ground handling, and able to contend with longer grass. I personally think they look a lot better sitting up farther off the ground, the way a steerman does. That's about it, I hoped this info helped answer some of your questions. If you have any more questions please feel free to ask, and good luck with your build. P.S. These are merely a description of what I did, and not recommendations. Except for the landing gear thing.

Videoheidiho

VH,
Thanks for the clearification. That helps a lot. I will play around with your sugestions.
db

I just bought an EAA Bipe already built at a local "fly-in" and it had no engine or any information (plans, construction manual) so I am looking for any info, such as C/G.

I did a Google Search and found the C/G should be 4 3/4" back from leading edge of the wing. I am "assuming" this is on the top wing.

I plan on "electrifying" it with a large Turnigy C5065-400 motor and a Turnigy Plush 80Amp motor controler. I will be using an A123 6s2p battery pack to supply about 24V at 4600 mAh of power.

Other than the C/G info, I also need to know the size prop most people fly the EAA Bipe. I will probably use a standard fuel prop, not an e-flight.

Thanks for any info!

Bill

Bill,

Hopefully someone with the real info will pipe in on the CG. What you quoted does not sound right, but I am about 8,000 miles from my Bipe and its plans. I remember the CG to be around 1-1/2" or so forward of the back of top wing (at the center cut-out). I glued a short piece of 1/4" dowel at that spot and would lift from it to see how it balanced.

I fly with a 15 or 16" prop. Get a lot smaller and it looks out of place in front of that big cowl.

Have fun!

Bedford

Bill,

I'm looking at my plans right now, and the c.g. is shown 4 5/8" back from the leading edge of the top wing. That's close enough to what you've already heard.

I'm looking forward to building mine, but life keeps getting in the way! I'm going electric too, but will likely use an AXI setup. I also ordered a fiberglass cowl from Fiberglass Specialties.

Good luck, Gary

Hi to all of you EAA Biplane Builders,

I Own the Masters and I can reporduce the Harold Osborne EAA Biplane in 3.5" = 1' Scale Plans and Patterns for Scratch Builders. This model has a Wingspan of 70" and 1,400 sq. in. Wing Area. Engine sizes .90-1.08 2cy or .91- 1.5 4cy. Comes with a copy of the Scale R/C Modeler Construction Article.

Regards,
Ken
PM or e-mail [email protected]

Does anyone have the BUSA recommended CG and control throughs for this EAA BIPE?

Thanks for any assistance.

I don't have the manual with me at the moment, but the CG location is provided two posts above yours in this thread.

E-Mail UPDATE FOR HAROLD OSBORNE PLANS

I Own the Masters and I can reporduce the Harold Osborne EAA Biplane in 3.5" = 1' Scale Plans and Patterns for Scratch Builders. This model has a Wingspan of 70" and 1,400 sq. in. Wing Area. Engine sizes .90-1.08 2cy or .91- 1.5 4cy. Comes with a copy of the Scale R/C Modeler Construction Article.

Regards,
Ken
Send me a PM or e-mail [email protected] for a full 9 page listing of Plans.

Here's my recently built EAA Bipe, with a Harley theme. It's powered by a OS 120 Gemini ll with on board glow and covered in Solar Tex. I can't take credit for the build, as I'm still a rookie at building. It was builtby an employee of Fields Hobby located in Cheektowaga, NY. I'm looking forward to the maiden.

Wow! That really looks good!
Have you flown it yet? I'd like to know if that Gemini 120 can hover it
I'm planning on putting an O.S, FS-120 S in mine which is almost ready for covering.

Nope, haven't flown her yet. I live just outside of Buffalo,NY and unfortunately winter doesn't want to go away just yet! But soon I hope.Maiden flight report to follow.
lumpy

Hi folk's ,so many questions. I will try to keep it short. Me and a friend (Willie) just bought Balsa USA 60" EEA BIPLANES (both used and crached). Both rebiult and ready for powerplants.One with 4 the other with 2 ailerons. Thinking OS 91 FS (non pumped).Grass field,no pants (yet) fly'n scale. Enough power? Nice to see old school enthusiasm! Thanks for any input, Rob

Hi Ski,

My EAA isn't ready yet but I mounted a Surpass O.S. .91 Surpass in it for scale sound and flight.

As an aside, I had an O.S. .91 FS (non Surpass: with the cam on the rear) and found it to be pretty gutless. Having flown both motors in the same plane (WACO YMF-7), I can tell you the Surpass seems at least half again as powerful as the earlier, non-Surpass.

As another aside, I crashed my first, two-aileron, EAA Bipe trying to get it to do aerobatics it wasn't meant to do.........

Ed

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