Unfortunately, there just doesn't seem to be any real shortcut to getting the sort of amazing scale finish we see on this model. And yes it might take weeks to get that many rivets done. And of course before you spend that much time on the rivets you'll be spending weeks properly glassing, and sanding, and priming, and sanding, and re-priming, and resanding, and adding panel lines, and...

That's one of the reasons I stick with WWI. I'm a bit of a fanantic and I think I'd go insane if I tried to do a heavy metal bird.

Takes a LONG time to do some WWI planes too!

Seems to take some people forever! Seriously, I don't think I've seen nearly as many really super scale WWI models as I have really detailed WWII models. Of course that may just be the result of raw numbers, i.e. many many more WWII models so naturally a higher number of true scale models vs. the numerically less common WWI.

When people do decide they'll try a WWI model, for the most part they just seem to go with one of the semi-scale (or even WAY stand-off scale) kits. I'd say that 90 percent of the EIII's and Pups out there (which already represent the lion's share of WWI models seen at fields) are just casual sports scale.

So I guess what I'm saying here Bob is go ahead and take your time. I'm sure we'll all appreciate the result whenever you finally decide to stop working on it and fly it.

The Guys are right, I used gluedrops for the rivets. I couldn't find any of the Titebond here in Canada so I invented my own formula which worked quite well. The Glue I used was call Weldbond. This glue is very good as it does not shrink leaving a rasin type rivet but a nice round headed rivet. This glue has one drawback and that it is dries crystal clear, so to overcome this problem I mixed in a bit of dollar store silver paint and when it dries it is a dull silver-grey colour. The aplicator I used was a small oiler with a very small steel tube tip. I made the tip even smaller by sticking a CA applicator over the end. The recipe I ended up with was about 10 parts Weldbond, 1 part silver paint and 1 part water.

oh come on now Bob. you have only been working on yours since what
3 years ago it looks goof though bro[sm=thumbup.gif]

Todd LOL.. you are right! (give that man a certificate!).
Don, you are also right.. you get a certificate too Takes me forever to do simple things! As an example.. here is what I created yesterday.. Of course I had to make two of them but all in all it still took too long.

I remember seeing that bit on the SE5a at Hendon. What are you going to cover it with? The "clear" covering I saw was pretty murky.

Don, yes I'm going to cover it with clear. Since my plane is new its clear. Those old planes did get murkey for sure. I believe it's Plexiglass or a similar product. Kind of like the old rear window I had in my MG's.

Great job, SilvE!

Silve, sorry I didn't mean to hijack your thread. You did outstanding on your build.

The only way I'll ever put that many rivets on anything will be when they put them in a spray can. Just kidding, you did a fantastic job!






Harry

That's amazing - of course to be a true scale seaplane the pilot needs to be in shorts and boatshoes and have the ass out of his pants! Love the navchart on the dash - perfect! All you need is a few old leaking pens down front of the screen that have been lost over the years! - and a few scale dead flies!