Rich404

Hi Guys,

Here are some recent pictures of Dauntless. I think she is ready for paint. I cannot wait to get her in her blue, grey & white color sceme. After she is painted, I am going to continue building, but as I make each piece, I will just paint & install and move along.

Enjoy!

-Rich.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Well...

I gave one shaft a gentle tap, with a wooden interface between the hammer and shaft, and it popped free. Now the second one... well, its gently bent, and ~might~ be salvagable.

UPDATE: Its ~not~ salvagable. Its not only warped along its length, its bent right at the bushing, and badly. To attempt to use it even if crudely straightened would risk bad vibration and nasty wear on the shaft. Anyone have a 3/16" x 12" stuffing tube they'd trade for one of the Dumas 8" ones? (its that 'spare' that came with the Dauntless package)

Dumas lists their #2802 3/16" x 12" stuffing boxes at $20 a pop, but they have a pre-soldered oiler/grease point at 1/2" in from the end. Mine are 1.75" in from the end... Mack ones? or custom? I'd have to replace BOTH for 'em to match, and thats JUST the boxes, using my existing 3/16" shafts that have been re-tapped for 4mm props.

Replacements: I looked at the Mack stuff, seems I need their SB12's. If I could squeak by with a 3/16" ID x 9" long stuffer, I could order the Mack ones at Great Hobbies for $16.99 Cdn. and in stock, but I think thats too short. and their 12" ones are $19.99 Cdn. but out of stock. The Dumas 2802's are a special order at GH (at 22.99 Cdn), Tower has 'em in stock at $17.59 US each, but Tower won't take PayPal from us Canucks.

There is a Robbe ROB1444 4mm shaft w/ 6mm OD, WITH shaft, at 16.95 at Harbor Models, ~BUT~ they don't seem to take PayPal. I see a guy on eBay in the UK has 4mm x 300mm shafts w/ boxes at $17.00, if he can ship 'em both for his listed shipping, he might be the best way to go. Seen a few other guys too... we'll see who can gimme the best quote.

Well, at least the hull is bare and sanded for re-sealing now...

Rich404

Hey Whitewolf,

Where is your luck these days?

I would say go with the MACK tubes & shafts, but I also like SAE. I know that you are a metric man, so the Robbe ones might be better for you.

I also did some work to Dauntless. I went to fit the 3/8 water tube, but it was missing in action. I have a specific boat room with all the supplies that never leave that area so it was odd that the tubing went missing. It is funny how sometimes this boat seems to dictate to me how it wants to be built rather than the other way around.

I tapered the gates in place using a metal file. The gates are perfectly flushed when closed.

I also got to work on the electrical system. I spent most of the day on it. I used a wood board and screwed down the motors, speed controls, power panel and some other goodies in place. All I need now is a voltmeter and a 12V 7Amp battery and I can begin to run a series of tests.

Also, Whitewolf, the smoke generators came in the mail. Pretty cool. They do not have any directions so any insight on how they work will be cool.

-Rich.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Rich:

I've asked the supplier in Toronto if he has any stuffing boxes... and yea, all my other gear is M4 thread, so all my props are interchangable ('cept for the ones that came w/ the Dauntless). The thing is - the shafts for the AE are 3/16", so I can either go with just an SAE stuffing box, or replace both box and shaft. I could also swap 'em into the Dauntless in a flash... only reason I can't put her tubes in the AE is the Dauntless tubes are 8" (and I'd ~still~ need a singleton)

I'm almost tempted to see if I can ~make~ a replacement tube. Its just the oilites in a 12" brass tube, and I HAVE the oilites (once I carefully cut 'em out of the b*ggered one) At worst, I wasted whatever the piece of tubing costs. And I may be able to use the remains of the damaged tube to help fab the new grease nipple mounts.

If it comes down to it, I may drop the Dauntless tubes into the AE just to show her off, as the Dauntless is a long way from water-ready, and the AE just needs exterior waterproofing, the tubes and rudders replaced, electronics dropped in her, and then ballasted to sit right.

And I have peelable silicone here (bought to seal the Rodeo side-panels to the hull) so I could pull the tubes back out in a flash too... I'll have to see.

Rich404

Hi Whitewolf,

If you can use the Dauntless tubes then go for it. Get AE running & then when Dauntless is ready for tubes in the future, buy them then.

Rich404

Hi Captains,

I worked on Dauntless last night. I focused on the last two interior aluminum plating pieces. It is not fun cutting those pieces especially around the windows because they require hand cutting with a box cutter. It takes a lot of strength to pierce through the aluminum. Once they are cut, they need to be sanded smooth removing all the rough edges.

Before I epoxy these interior sections in place, I am going to drill holes in the aluminum for the light sconces and cut channels inside the wall going up the cabin side toward the ceiling. I am going to wire in the lights as I set the aluminum wall in place. I will just cover the light with painters tape until I make up the permanent fixtures. It will all be connected during the wiring up party in the future.

The deckhouse will feature 2 lighting systems. Switch one will be for the ceiling lights & switch two will be for sconces.

Also, here is a picture of the Astroflight motors, ESC's & Power Distribution panel & a general picture of Dauntless with some aluminum in the bridgedeck that is destined to be incorporated into the structure.

-Rich.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

GAH...

After checking out the only two hobby stores locally that carry R/C gear, and finding no stuffers AT ALL, I decided I might be able to pull the bushings from the damaged tube and pop 'em into a matching 12" piece of K&S brass (9/32" - #132).

Well... I got home, and began to split the tube... and split it... and split it... and before I got to the bushing, I was right through the d*mned tube! There were no oilites, or bronzes, or whatever. It was just two sleeved sections of more K&B tubing! I guess the original builder had made a custom set of stuffers, and used sleeved brass tubing for two sizes up from the 3/16" OD shafts, then the 3rd size up became the outer stuffer tube. It explains the odd distance (1 3/4") from end of tube to the oiler point, and why that item couldn't be matched in any supplier! (Dumas's are 1/2" in)

I have some scrap brass of the next size down from the 9/32" outer tube (which is 1/4" OD aka 8/32") but need the next size up from the shaft (3/16" aka 6/32"), that being 7/32" OD. Shame to buy a whole 12" section, but I can use it and the damaged 9/32 stuffer to make the new oilers! And with the shafts out, I've thought up a better design that won't be prone to snapping off. As luck has it, Canadian Tire has some Iroki butane mini-torches on sale, which gives me a decent set of excuses to spring for it.

Net cost? The 9/32" set me back $3.30 (after taxes) and the 7/32" will cost me a bit less - call it $6.50 Cdn, plus any butane I burn when I solder the sleeving in place, less the leftover tubing (bought & salvaged). Cheaper than the $20 US for a 12" Dumas, eh?

I MAY have her ready for Saturday AFTER all... if so, I'll take pics, and try to get some video. and yea, this is kinda on-topic, because the Dauntless is only slightly shorter, but with a rounder displacement hull, but will use a near-identical drive system. The only variable would be the rugdders & the propellors (though with my foresight, I can interchange all my props - M4 for the win!)

dauntlessfan

Rich your work never ceases to amaze. Well done.

Rich404

Thank you Dauntlessfan!

-Rich.

Rich404

Hi Whitewolf,

It is odd that he made them that way but it is kind of cool. I never thought about making stuffing tubes, just replace them at will. This is a simple means on saving money and also having the pride in saying “I made that!” If you can get your camera to work, why not do a quick build log on it? This can give other modelers the idea and know how to build their own stuffing tubes, rather than pay the $20+ for ready made ones. I’m sure there are builders that bought stuffing tubes knowing they were not exactly the size they needed but settled because there are only certain sizes and lengths available on the market. This is a good opportunity to get people to think outside the box and make exactly what they need for their project for a fraction of the price.

Here is a diagram of a stuffing tube here on the Dauntless site. It can reinforce what you have already learned. (It is about halfway down the page.) [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4688536/mpage_3/key_/tm.htm[/link]

-Rich.

Rich404

Hello Captains,

Last night I worked on Dauntless...Woo Hoo! I continued cutting the aluminum plate walls. Did I mention that it is not fun cutting the inner part for the windows, ! It’s done, both side walls are cut. I hammered the rough edges & used a metal file and some sandpaper to smooth.

The channels in the walls are cut for wires & I put the wires in place for a depth check and it's perfect. There are four channels it total, 2 on port and 2 to starboard.

Now I am fitting the walls and trimming away any excess aluminum for a perfect fit.

**There is going to be a couple different places in Dauntless where wiring will be hidden in walls. Just about all of the wiring for lights will travel through the wood planked ceilings.

I took some pictures last night. Today, I brought my camera to work and remembered that I removed the battery for a charge and forgot to bring it with me.

Soo, I will post pictures tomorrow.

-Rich.

joe31hat

My Feedback: (5)

Rich, Would you mind telling me about your ESC's? I'm going to run the same motors. I'm sure you've answered that question but I can't find it. By the way, what are you sing for power?

Thanks

Joe

Rich404

Hi Joe,

I have (2) Astroflight Harbor Master Speed controls. I bought them & the motors when Astro still offered brushed set ups for sale. These are now discontinued, so my boat will make her maiden voyage using good old fashioned technology.

Astroflight now offers the 208D speed control for marine use. I believe it is compatible to the brushed Astroflight 25’s but it is a good idea to check with them. The two ESC’s 208D & Harbor Master) do look very similar with slight differences.

I will likely use the power distribution panel to run the entire electrical system minus the motors & ESC using a 12V gel cell battery. The motors & ESC’s will be powered by (2) 3S 5000 MAH LIPO Batteries. The ESC’s will have both BEC’s disabled.

The boat will feature over 30 working lights as well as an array of accessories, so a separate battery is needed not to interfere with runtime.[sm=49_49.gif]

-Rich.

Rich404

Hi Joe,

One more thing, the Astroflight 25 motors are a sweet choice for this boat![sm=thumbup.gif] You boat will run great with them.

-Rich.

Rich404

Dauntless Captains,

As promised here are those pictures.

I still have to trim the aluminum some more for a perfect fit. Afterwards, they will be epoxied in place and filled around the seams and finally sanded. Also included is a picture of the painted inner aluminum wall in the forecastle. The finish of the aluminum comes out much better than fussing with grainy plywood. Also, recently I bought some fine modelers metal files that will be used to fine tune the forecastle windows amongst other things.

Always a work in progress, but that's half the fun!

-Rich.

Rich404

On another note, soon I am going to order the new radio for the boat. I looked into radios a while back and really liked the Robbe F14 Marine radio, which became a big contender. Here we are two years later & nothing on the market seems to rival the twin stick set up so I am going to get it. It is a non computer radio, but that does not matter because it would be a dedicated radio to Dauntless and will not need features for other boats.

One thing I will do is custom build a radio case using the F14 electronics. Varnished mahogany with mother of pearl trim will be used along with Dauntless’s name in gold lettering. A streamlined design will be incorporated to make it look interesting & belong with the style of the yacht. It will be more unique than the stock plastic radio case.

-Rich.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Rich:

Why not strip the Robbe unit out of its case, and paint the stock one with one of those wood-replica paints? That would maintain the stock mounting points, but give you the look you want.

I know many kids who this with their gaming stations, and if you've ever seen the movie 'Hackers' thats what the kids do when they go head-to-head with their systems to out-hack each other. I've done it a few times myself when a certain color unit was on sale, and I dinna like any of the colors they sold.

Repainting is SO much easier these days, with all the specialty paints about... marble, stucco, you name it, someone makes it. Heck, even the tankers LOVE the ease of the new Krylon Camo colors (which includes an Olive Drab for WW2 US) I think they meant it for DIY sportsman woodland camo and other patterns, but heck, flat-camo paint is flat-camo paint, be it 1:1 or any other scale, right?

WhiteWolf

PS: looks like someone disliked my comments on comparative electric drives. I thought we were all friends here, but I guess I'll save my insights for PM's. No point in giving those NOT interested any FREE ADVICE.
But one last freebie... don't report others if you don't wanna be reported yourself. I know who my friends are here, and I don't & won't report ~them~.

Rich404

Hi Whitewolf,

That is a good practical idea, however, I want to make the case because I have a surplus of mahogany from this build that I may not use after the boat is built. The mahogany is beautiful and I can't think of what else to do with it later on. I will not start another boat until after I retire in about 30 years from now so using it for another boat is out of the question at this point. Dauntless is "it" for me for a long time!! I found a mother of pearl supplier & have been wanting to work with the material so I was thinking of combining mother of pearl & mahogany and make a great radio case for the boat. Yes, I am impractical and silly that way! lol. I love to tinker & work with wood & exotic materials!

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

OK...

Well, why not ask Robbe to send you a ~spare~ case, and do up a spare with the 'decoration' and keep one stock, just so you don't ruin the unit for resale value. Tell 'em what you wanna do, and they may even give ya a discount just to be able to post the pics on their site... hmmm?

Just thinking outside the box... or casing, as it may be. One of the few things I'm ~rather~ good at... and often do subconsciously! (its gotten me in trouble more than once)

Rich404

Hi Whitewolf,

The scratch built case should not interfere with the stock case. It shouldn’t have to be defaced to remove the electronics, just careful planning. The internal electronics were installed in the plastic case similarly to how they will be installed in the scratch built case. All the mounting posts will appear in the wood box but will be small fixed wood blocks with predrilled holes as required for mounting. The original plastic case should hopefully remain in good condition after the electronics are removed.

If I read correctly, one of the cool features of the Robbe F14 is that the entire back plate comes off so that the user can buy & install upgrades for the radio without soldering. It is set up for plug/play & customize using switches & modules already available from Robbe. With that said, it should not be too difficult transplanting most of the electronics in a custom box.

The material itself is just preference. Most people don’t mind using the standard radio, but there are a handful of people that do custom make their own radio/case so it is not too uncommon. It is just another facet of this great hobby that might be cool to one day explore. In my opinion, a mahogany & mother of pearl radio would be a good final touch to complete the project.

I will set up a separate build log on the subject when the time comes.

-Rich.

dauntlessfan

Unseasonably cool weather (yeah, 90 degrees is considered cool in July) brought out several boaters to the local pond this morning for the local boat club's monthly float.

Took a few pics of my Dauntless to share, enjoy!

dauntlessfan

Oh and yes, you are not mistaken, that's ANOTHER DAUNTLESS out there on the water. I was suprised to have the opportunity to navigate the waters with another beautiful Dauntless rendition. Here are a few more pics...

Rich404

Hi Dauntlessfan,

A picture is worth a thousand words! And to have two Dauntless's in the same pond! Even better!

So, when will the Commuter Yacht races be held?

I like the fact that although these boats are the same model, they appear so different on the water.

These pictures are awesome! [8D]

-Rich.

Rich404

Hi Captains,

On Saturday, more work was done to the aluminum plating. The starboard section was trimmed & ready to be set in place. I went ahead and made up 4 sconce brackets from mahogany. A hole will be drilled in the center of each one, like what I have done to the aluminum plate for the wire to travel through. When the aluminum is set in, the wires along with the attached light and bracket will be in place..

I hope to have both aluminum walls in place and paint ready by the end of the week.

Yesterday, the 12V battery came in the mail for Dauntless. It weighs 5 pounds, so it will make for good (and needed) ballast for the rear section of the yacht. It is going to be placed under the “Lazarette” floor, so to get it to fit, I carved out sections of the keel as needed so that when the battery is in place, there is some clearance for the floor above. After spending a couple hours on it, and almost second guessing whether or not it would actually fit in that spot, it worked!, but only after resorting to sanding down a thin layer of the floor above. The cabins fit in place and the lazarette floor is literally resting on the battery. Whew! That was close!

After I vacuumed up the mess in that area, I cut some ¼” X ¼” wood strips and began making a built in battery tray to secure it in place. I cut strips to size & carefully epoxied them around the outer perimeter of the battery while it was still in place. When the strips were set, I was able to lift out the battery. Tonight, a few more wood strips will be added & the wood along with the boat bottom where the battery will rest will be lightly coated with epoxy for extra protection from water & age. This battery will power the power distribution panel as described in an earlier post.

Also, The place where the water tube would have entered the hull is the same place where the battery will be so there will not be a water tube there.. I found an item online a while back that is like a sea scoop that scoops up water for water cooling without it being located as a tube behind the prop. I will look into it later.


The hull is also being prepped for paint. I wanted to have the water tubes in place, but it will have to wait. The water pick up tube will be under the boat, so touch ups there are not an issue. After the boat is running, I will revisit the watercooling. The Astroflight 25's may not need watercooling because they are aircooled with built in fans and I have yet to see someone try to water cool them. The engine room will also be well ventilated with fan system that will be installed.The ESC's are the only components likely to need water cooling. After that, I see using it mainly as a water feature to similate her big sister's roaring wet exhaust.

Getting the boat painted before the end of fall is my biggest priority, so I am in a race against time especially with some of the work that still needs to be done.



-Rich.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Well...

Finally got off my lethargic butt and rebuilt the grease fittings and the new stuffing box. Hope to have my pics up tomorrow, if I'm not out putting a first sealing coat on the hull, and working on planking the Dauntless.

I did lay out for one of the Iroda butane mini-torches (MicroJet MJ-300) and even got it at the last-week sale price. But I must say, I think I'll eventually replace it with a better quality one (from Lee Valley, probably) It does a better large-area job than a soldering gun would, and when a propane torch is just too damn big. Its GREAT for lighting the propane torch though, and would be good for similar uses. I just wish someone made a super-fine torch tip w/ clamp/stand with a hose to a normal porpane bottle. The 'fine' tip is nowhere near fine enough for hobby work.

Seeing how easy it was to make stuffing boxes from K&S tubing, I may sell off the trio of Dumas ones and make my own w/ M4 threads (so all my props are swappable) with my reinforced grease nipple tubes.

I'm beginning to doubt I'll have even the hull sealed and water-tested before the pond ices over... but I'm still going to ~try~.

WhiteWolf