Hydro Junkie

Dauntlessfan, looks to me like you have some more work to catch up with that blue hulled beauty. I noticed the aft cabins are totally different in the arrangement of windows, is this from having photo-documentationto work from or what? BTW, are you in the Pacific Nortwest? The temperatures you posted are what we've been getting up here lately. Unfortunately, many up here can't handle these temperatures and the hospital ER's are geetting hammered

dauntlessfan

Hi Hydro - Yeah, mine, with a basic white on white paint job and navy blue water line, definately does not have the detail or charm of the of the other Dauntless in the pics. And it is indeed a work in progress, albeit slow. I have yet to add the life rings, entry doors and four exhaust vents on the upper deck walls.

The Dumas kit does not call for any aft windows, or the square starboard vent between them. But the real boat obviously had them. I loosely based my retangular aft portholes & vent off the original drawings of the boat. The blue Dauntless in the pic used circular portholes which look great too.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Gah... I hate custom jobs.

After searching all over for the AWOL stuffing box struts, I remembered that they'd been soldered to the shafts, and then remembered that the shafts were custom jobs. That means that odds are, the blasted struts were custom-built too. I ~thought~ I could pinch the ones from the Dauntless, and hit the 'customization' snag again - the incident angle (or 'drop' as its apparently called) of the shafts to the hull isn't the same, despite the same drive kit being recommended for both the Dauntless and AE.



For those confused, here's Rich's shafts. The strut is the bronze casting just forward (to the left) of the propellor. Before anyone suggests it, yes, I thought of knocking the bushings out, but the stuffing box would still be too big to fit through, even if the angle was right.

So... It looks like I'm making a custom set of struts. I pondered soldering up a set, but two things changed my mind. The first was how to get both the right angle, the second was account for any thickening of the hull due to waterproofing and paint, which would mean shifting the mounting point aft, and more holes.

I decided to assemble one from laminated styrene, and to use a styrene-tube sleeve to hold the end of the stuffer just forward of the prop, much like the way the bronze w/ bearing ones Dumas makes does. It will be easier to do the final assembly in place with MEK than to solder them, and to get the drop right as well.

I ~then~ thought - Why not encase the WHOLE external run of the stuffer? It would allow me to remove the stuffers for ANY maintenance of hull or stuffers, they could be held in place with the pressure of a larger locking collar, and sealed by the simple expediant of a bit of lube in the sleeve.

Thoughts? And yea, it could be done as easily with a piece of brass tube too... a super-stuffing-box, to coin a phrase.

Rich404

Hi WhiteWolf,

That is dedication! Is there a way to just buy stock replacement struts and place them where needed? If you look at my struts, the MACK ones had to be slightly lifted to fit in the same place as the Dumas ones so I improvised and added more epoxy under the strut to meet the height requirements without moving the struts too close to the rudder.

-Rich.

Rich404

Hi Captains,

Yesterday a full day of work was put into Dauntless. Both aluminum walls are installed along with the lights & brackets. I am pleased with the way it is shaping up. After the aluminum walls were secured I used files to file down the excess aluminum seen from the windows until everything was plum. Now, all I have to do is l put some epoxy on my finger & go around the window edge to seal the wood/aluminum & lightly sand. The strength of the side cabin is very noticable. In her stock form, I was able to push my finger just below the main cabin windows & the wood would flex inward. Now, when I try it, it is rock hard. There is no more flexing. She is as strong as can be.

I also took the opportunity to begin detailing the rest of the windows. The style of the full sized Dauntless did not have sharp corner edged windows. In the corners, they were slightly curved. So, I used round files to file out the edges & used a flat file to detail. I did this to all of the windows except the deckhouse windshield. Now she has that ship-shape look. Although I detailed from the outside, the windows from the interior perspective also look good as well. I looked into her windows & saw where the hull/cabins meet on the inside. I began detailing that as well so that there will not be such a noticable transition. I am going to continue tonight, hopefully.

-Rich.

werdonmorris

My Feedback: (7)

Dear Captains:

Sorry I have not posted on my site yet, for the lack of time being at veterans. They should have a room with my name on the door. I just love there ways of getting me to stay for a week.
Anyways friends, I went to a flea market this weekend, and came across four builds I could not refuse, even if they are airplanes. I got all four plus many accessories the gentlemen did buy extra for them all.

The smallest of the bunch, is a cousair 4Fu-f1a fighter from the black sheep time frame, and it has a 68 inch wing span. The sky walker is a 1/3 scale kit, with a 106" inch wing span-8' 5" from tip to tip, and the body is a little over 6' feet long. This a very huge air craft. Then I have a smaller one, and so on.

I spent a total of $ 150.00 cash for the whole lot of of the un-completed kits still in the boxes, with a paid bill of $ 2,800.00 inside one of the boxes. The person that sold them to does me special favors, for I do alot of marine work for him on his full size power boat for next to nothing. I love helping people, and friends that truly needs help, and can not for one reason or another.

Whitewolf, please send me your email address, so I can get in touch with you about the saw. It is boxed, and ready to go you, for your total pleasure. You will find out, it does aid in get wood cutting simplier, and better results. The saw is completely free to you, for you are a good friend, and I have two others to use, plus other style of saws to use. I just ask one thing from you, is just pay for the shipping, for I still waiting for ssd. to make it's way to my mail box.

Rich404, the facts I read from your pm, does sound in a very good neighborhood, and please keep me posted. Also, now that I made heads or tails of my boat project, will be starting a new idea for lighting, ans so on.

Your friend Butch
[email protected]

Rich404

Hi Butch,

That sounds like an awesome score!!![sm=thumbup.gif] I would also like to get a classic fighter plane one day. The Corsair is one of my favorites!

Have fun with them!

-Rich.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

GAH...

That only reminds me I have 4 moidels that were to go with my R/C tanks that I'be not finished (one isn't even started!) All are 1/16 scale, one is the RepliKit's V1 'Doodlebug', designed for Jetex operation, the second is the old Comet J3 Cub / L4 Grasshopper balsa kit, and the last two are V2 rocket kits, Estes 'MaxiBrute' unit, and then the static Imex 'see-thru' one. None will ever fly, as I bought 'em just for diorama purposes, but I still want to do a respectable job.

I'm still awaiting my order from the hobby shop in Toronto, but I can continue on other kits without those parts. I didn't realise until I examined the black (Robbe) props for my AE that they are 50mm ones, so I should look to get the 2" diameter 3/16" shaft, tri-blade ones for the Dauntless. Then again, I may be able to slip the AE shafts into the Dauntless tubes and test-run the assorted M4 props I have before buying metal ones.

Began trying to get the paint off the AE... and hit a glitch. Someone mixed the paint types (enamel & latex), and its playing merry h*ll with the stripping.

Hope to get back to work on the Dauntless later this week... if the weather is good.

Rich404

Hello Captains,

Here are some pictures of Dauntless as described in my last post.

Tonight, I am going to sand & detail the aluminum walls. It should not take too much time to get them paint ready. I am also working on the the area just below where the aluminum wall ends to make it more attractive. I am thinking about making up a small sill under the wall that is water proof that can take on any water trying to enter any seam between the hull and the bottom of the cabin. It will work sort of like a gutter that will drain out the side of the hull. From the inside of the hull, it will look like a stained wood moulding
and look more like a detail rather than have funtion. This should help prevent any water from entering the interior space. I am planning to do this along the entire cabins on port & starboard sides, but will detail them slightly differently from area to area to blend in with the surroundings.
-Rich.

Rich404

The sconces above will be covered with a water resistant type material called onion skin. It is a durable but bendable paper like material that has a marbled beige color. The onion skin will be measuered, cut and simply folded over and glued to each side of the wood bracket.. The onion skin "glass" will be half round covering the length of the fixture, which should look attractive and have a marble- frosted look.. I may outline it with a really thin stained wood trim or simply leave it as is. (well see) With the lights on, it should put out a nice glow that will not over power the room.

-Rich.

werdonmorris

My Feedback: (7)

It's looking great Rich, working with aluminum can be trying, and cut full-ouch.
I have started to decide with the next step on my boat, and will enjoy seeing more of your progress.

Butch

Rich404

Hi Butch, I agree that working with aluminum can be trying at times, but so far it has been worth the extra effort even after a metal splinter or two.


Hi Captains,

Use the picture in my last post for reference: 2nd row, 2nd picture, (inside the cabin.)

Last night I continued on Dauntless focusing on the main cabin aka deckhouse. I sanded the aluminum plating which is coming as planned and filled in the seam just above the plating with mighty putty. Also, where the cabin meets the hull below, where it looks sloppy in the picture, it was also filled with mighty putty the other night. Last night I block sanded it to make it presentable. It is still going to be covered by a wall with the gutter as mentioned so by evening it out, it will stick better to the wall. The wall will likely be aluminum to save weight and be thin enough to line up with the removable cover just above..

Tonight, I am going to continue sanding & filling as needed in that room. Also note, on the left side of the picture where the forward cabin wall meets the cabin top there is the gap near the doorway leading into the forecastle. I am going to fill the top of the wall with mighty putty and sand until they meet correctly.

That same wall will be covered by another wood wall which will also be painted white. The reason for it is to add more strength by increasing its thickness while allowing me to add a hinged door leading into the forecastle without much modification. Because the wall extends past the height of the hull it is vulnerable to mishap so it is a good idea to reinforce it. The outer wall was made a while back and is ready for installation. I am thinking of having this wall set up for wiring so that all the ceiling wires in the forecastle end here where it continues its journey down the inside of the wall and into the hull where it continues to the engine room electrical panel. This is a good time to plan it and set in the grooves so I can run wires down the inside of the wall & have the contact plates hidden from sight between the top of the wall & the forecastle ceiling.

-Rich.

Rich404

Hi Captains,

This weekend I am going to begin painting the hull exterior. I am going to begin with the waterline and below. It is going to be painted flat red to similate bottom paint. After the bottom is done, I am going to mark and mask 1/8" or a little more just above the red. It is to preserve the white primer already there to form the white boot stripe around the entire yacht. Then I will paint the hull exterior midnight blue pearl. After the blue is done, I will mask off the blue & paint the top hull & trim grey. After all the colors are done, I will go back and add some gloss to the blue & maybe the boot stripe.. This will take me about 2 weeks or less to complete, depending on my schedule.

There is still a bunch of little things I want to work out before adding the permanent coates of paint to the exterior cabins. That will likely happen in early spring.

-Rich.

werdonmorris

My Feedback: (7)

Rich

I generally start out using flat model plastic sheets, draw out the pattern, cutout, sand and test fit them. And if it comes to my satisfaction level, then I will transfer it over to brass, ot aluminum and then clear coat, so it does not powder, even if I paint the item.
For something that takes one one day, or one century, it worth my best efforts to make it last.

P>S>, I finally decided how the top cabin design is going to be, after I went fishing today. What I noticed, that most of the boats that sailed by, had a generally the same shape, or design. I the bottom cabin was one style the top was the same, or swoop back shape. Mine is going to be totally different, for it was my very first design I thought of, that is the winner.

Butch

werdonmorris

My Feedback: (7)

Rich

I just noticed the pro boat the widowmaker 22 deep v looks just like my boat, so when I gets time to show you the top cabin, I will email it to you. I do not need anymore copying of my boat project!!

Butch

Rich404

Hi Butch,

I like your approach by using the plastic model sheets. Where do you get them?

-Rich.

Rich404

Hi Captains,

For the last few nights, I have been pushing a lot of work into Dauntless after work. Nothing to photograph, but lots of sanding, filling, detailing & planning..


The F-14 Marine radio is in the mail & should be delivered shortly. I am surprised that more companies are not offering twin stick throttles as an option for their radio line up.

-Rich.

werdonmorris

My Feedback: (7)

Rich

At any hobby shop, they will be next to the balsa wood supplies, or plastic models section.

Butch

joe31hat

My Feedback: (5)

Hi guys,

Well, it looks like I'm going to restart my Dauntless project. Now I have a question. I have the Dumas running gear but should I invest the $$$ to get MACKS gear? Is there that big of a difference? I don't really want to spend $$ for the sake of spending, but if it's really worth the dollars I might.

I'm using the Astroflight 25's for my motors and Astroflight 208D ESC.

Any thoughts?

Joe

Rich404

Hi Joe,

The simple answer is no. I don't think there is a need to purchase the MACK running gear if you already have the stock Dumas gear. If you were shopping for running gear, then I would suggest MACK.

The quality of the materials used in MACK are superior to Dumas, but it won't make your boat any faster or float any better.


-Rich.

joe31hat

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks Rich,

joe

Rich404

Hi Captains,

It has been an interesting few days getting Dauntless ready for paint. I have been waiting for this day for a long time. Today, I worked on the waterline for Dauntless. The most challenging part of Dauntless waterline is taping where it crosses the chine about ¾ the way forward. I had to re tape that area quite a few times to get it right. To do the waterline, I began using Dumas’s instructions, but then used pictures of the full sized hull for markers to duplicate.

Continued below.

-Rich.

Rich404

Continued.

Hopefully by the weekend, I wil paint the hull blue along with the white boot stripe.

-Rich.

werdonmorris

My Feedback: (7)

Rich

From what I see, is looking very real. One little suggestion, when ever you get a rough edge. Instead of re-painting, just run a excellent grade of automotive thin pin stripping tape, at most auto stores, of the same color, or any color you wish. Teh clear coat with spray marine spar clear, and it will out last our life span.

Butch-EXCELLENT TAPE JOB.

Rich404

Thanks Butch!

-Rich.