werdonmorris

My Feedback: (7)

Rich

I just came up with a excellent idea, while test fit a piece I cut for the side, top portion of the hull. I always add more wood, so I can sand it flush with the upper deck. But instead of flushing it at the bow, I will add more for a v shape, and extend it onto the deck.

Butch-more saw dust!
Total Passion Of Wood

Rich404

Hi Whitewolf,

I agree, As long as the wood forms over the bulkheads, you should be in business. Keep us posted on your progress.

Hi Butch,

I'm glad to see you are refueled and ready for another round! It is awesome that you took the time to drive so far to study boats! That is very commendable!! I will stay tuned on your progress!

Hi captains,

Work has dominated my week and weekend so progress was slowed. Last night when I got home from work, I sanded off some epoxy on the interior owners cabin wall aft (aluminum) then once it was smooth, I moved onto sanding the hull with 600 grit sandpaper. The hull is now sanded with the exception of the forward area below the chine which I may do tonight, hopefully. Once that is done, all the bling-tastic gloss will be out of the finish. I sprayed the hull with rubbing alcohol and cleaned it with a paper towel to remove the paint dust.

The hull is now a dull blue but the color comes alive momentarily when I spray it with rubbing alcohol. I am going to give the boat one final "good" coat of blue followed by one last finish sanding. Once this is done, the gold lettering for the transom should arrive. Once the lettering is in place and dry, the hull will be ready for the satin finish clear coat.

Afterwards, I will remove the tape & finally see how the red & blue looks together. Then it is off to the white boot stripe. Once the boot stripe is done, it is off to taping the upper portion of the hull deck and get ready to apply the grey paint.

Slowly but surely, she is getting there..


-Rich.

12skipper

Hi Rich,
Please document and photograph your procedure for the white boot stripe, especially the area where the boot stripe crosses the spray rail. I have been busy all summer working on sailboats. The White Rose M.Y. C. members keep me going with repairs and alterations to their various Yachts: EC12s, Star 45s, Fairwind 900 and Skipjack.Thank you on your continued postings on "Dauntless."

Chuck

werdonmorris

My Feedback: (7)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80...tm.htm#9066542

Captains

I just posted more pictures of my build in progress, the build link is just above-Butch

Rich404

Hi Chuck,

Sure, I will take some detailed pictures of it and post them.

For the time being, here is a current picture. This one was taken after I sanded the hull with 600 grit sandpaper.

-Rich.

Rich404

Without editing...

The white cabins are such a contrast to the dark blue. I cannot wait to tie it all together with the light grey and miles of stain wood trim...

-Rich.

Rich404

Hi Captains,

Here is a picture on the wall of my boat room. It is an original article written about Dauntless in the 1940's, so this article itself is vintage. A copy of it was on this site by someone for a time, but I can no longer find it.

I acquired this original magazine article a couple of years ago and framed it.

It is a good reference piece.

Since I had this, I have read it dozens of times and never get tired of it...

This picture can be expanded to read the full article, sorry for the camera flash.

-Rich.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Update:

I've got the plan scans back, and they managed to get 'em done at 600 dpi. I hanen't looked at 'em yet, but if anyone wants a copy, let me know. I should have had the sheets for the drive unit done at the same time, as scanning is dirt cheap (0.25 cents a sq.ft.) and the biggest charge on the bill was the lamination of the masters, at 18.00 for the two sheets (12 sq.ft so 1.50 a sq.ft?) They trimmed them to the edge of the sheet, something I HATE, because given a few months, the edges split, and the two sheets of plastic begin to tear the paper apart. If it happens, I'll have them over-laminate it at their cost due to ~their~ procedural failure.

I haven't done much on the hull as I'd hoped for more response on the hull planking issue, and been wrestling with medication issues that are affecting my wake/sleep cycle. I hope to rip the C's into smaller pieces to allow a bit of flex, and perhaps make the 5 C's do both sides (should have 6, but remember, I was working with a short'd kit)

Going to color on the copies of the plans I had made so I can see where the floor/wall panels go onto/into the hull, and then possibly begin the superstructure as I continue to finish the hull. I ~have~ noted that some of the structure is supposed to rest on the sheers, not the deck, so my use of the balsa replacements may need to be upgraded to support where the superstructure rests on them.

Butch, still awaiting your postal assessment. my US friend can mail the funds to you, no problem.

WhiteWolf

EDIT:

Oh-boy, are the scans nice! And they made 'em into *.tif (0.94 & 0.615 meg), *.jpg (4.19 & 3.35 meg), AND a single two-page PDF (1.44 meg) Anyone that wants a CD, just ask, and I can toss in the scans I had done of the LCM-3 hull too (sadly only 300dpi) Hats off to Gilmore Reproductions, Woodward outlet.

dauntlessfan

WhiteWolf - I'd love to have those scans, I think you have my email from the scans I sent you recently. Thanks.

Rich - What magazine is that article from? S&S was kind enough to email me an electronic copy of that page several years ago, but it was missing that nice header. Your boat is looking excellent by the way!

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Agreed DF:

Any chance you could get that page scanned at high res? Would be a great piece to have along with my laminated plans.

werdonmorris

My Feedback: (7)

WhiteWolf

I finally got to go to the usps, and they told me it would cost between $18.00 to $24.00 dollars to send the saw to you. You will find my email below, for I need your mailing address.

Butch

Rich404

Hi Dauntlessfan & Whitewolf,

I believe this article was from “Yachting” Magazine in 1946-47, but 1947 seems more likely when the author stated that “Laurance was using her for commuting this past year.”

A while back, some guy on E-bay was parting out all the interesting articles rather than sell the magazine whole. This happened to be a featured article written about Dauntless.

When I get a chance, I will remove the article from the glass and take a high res photo for you guys.

Hi Whitewolf,

Can you please post pictures of the planking issue so that we can help come up with a solid game plan?

It is better to see what you see rather than see what we think we see…..does that make sense? LOL.

This way, together we can help you tackle it so that you can move on to the next steps.

-Rich.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Rich:

I'll take a pic later today, once the first 'ripped' C plank is solidly in place and I can remove the clamps.

I ripped two strips about 3/8" each off each C, so basically I've got a pair of C1's and a single C2. It seems that even if I had 3 full C-planks per side, it still wouldn't be enough.

I can always go back to the die-cuts and see if I can't rip some long strips off the remains. It'd be similar to the way you used to have to make the stringers for balsa aircraft from the edges of the sheets.

I've begun assembling the superstructure by mating the deck and floor halves, and using a 1/2" rip from the frame center-removals to re-inforce 'em. I'll have a go at the cabin window cut-outs later, think I'm going to make two large circular drill-outs, then turn the rounded sides into rounded corners with the sanding drum on my dremel.

I can't wait for that shipment Butch, I've burned up both my Dremel circular-saw blades (one small diameter, one large) and dunno if they make the damned things any more (I thought they got disco'd because of a cutting hazzard, but they aren't any more dangerous than the carbide and diamond disc's, right?)

No more takers on the 600 dpi high-res scans? Got 'em in *.tif, *.jpg & a nice two-page pdf.

joe31hat

My Feedback: (5)

WhiteWolf,

I'll accept your offer on the scans... PDF preferred.

Let me know what you need from me?

Joe

joe31hat

My Feedback: (5)

Whitewolf...many thanks

joe

Rich404

Hi Whitewolf,

I'm sure you already mentioned it, but which scans are these?

-Rich.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Rich:

Some high-res scans of the Dauntless sheets - the ones that I'd misplaced and subsequently found and had scanned. nice clean 600 dpi ones too. Gilmore Reproductions nicely supplied *.jpg, *.tif and *.pdf of the sheets.

Rich404

Hi Whitewolf,

Sure, can you e-mail me a copy as well! [email protected]

Thank you!

Hopefully during my lunch break today, I will try to scan in the Dauntless write up to share with you guys. I looked at it today & it was in fact from Yachting magazine, it was marked on the other side of the page featuring another yacht.

Hopefully, I will post some other recent pictures of Dauntless as well.

-Rich.

Rich404

Hi Dauntless captains,

All scanned in, I have it in JPG & PDF so take your pick. If you are interested in a copy, send me a PM with your e-mail address & I will send it to you.

-Rich.

Rich404

Dauntless captains,

Here is the Robbe F-14 Radio that will be used for dauntless. Eventually, I will order the optional modules so that I can run lights & accessories via remote. The radio was a pretty costly initial investment, (for me anyway) so I will let the dust settle before adding additional gadgets to it.

I really like the twin stick feature.

-Rich.

Rich404

Continued:

Next up to bat is the aluminum wall that I mentioned in some recent posts. This was actually done to correct a minor misalignment on the wall during the original build over 10 years ago. The bottom part of the wall was pushed inwards by 1/8". It was hard to see the misalignment but with the interior going in place, it would make it stand out like a sore thumb, so I corrected it without ripping down the existing wall.

This wall took a couple tubes of epoxy gel making it an expensive but very strong wall. This wall is plum level so fitting the interior and the outside seating will line up perfectly. Some more sanding, etc still needs to be done to the interior wall. On the stateroom side, there will be some wood trim added to add depth and the entire wall & trim will be painted white. I have noticed this style being used in many staterooms from the old commuter & gentleman yachts. There will also be wood trim on the exterior wall but it will be done in stained mahogany. It will reflect what was on the original yacht.

-Rich.

Rich404

Dauntless captains,

Here is a tid-bit for ya:

On the last picture I posted just above, # 4 shows the unique white structure on the port & starboard sides. It looks like you can see through the "ports". Well you could, those were actually windows covered in clear plexiglass to keep water from splashing in at high speeds. There were seating along the entire back wall so that you could sit down facing aft & gaze out the sides without getting splashed. Above your head was the triangular shaped ragtop that also helped keep water out & provided some shade on those hot sunny days.

It must have been nice...

-Rich.

dauntlessfan

Great info Rich, thanks!

So.... the aft port and starboard ladders that are specified in the Dumas plans.... was that a creative afterthought from the Dumas crew? Maybe there was just one ladder on the starboard side instead of one on each side? I modeled the seating that you mention on the port side in my model, but have never known what to do with those (possibly fictitious) Dumas-specified ladders.

Rich404

Hi Dauntlessfan,

The seating was exactly how you have it on your model, but it also continued after the door on the starboard side. There was the same type of seating on the bridge deck back wall facing forward. That seating area also extended the beam of the deck.

Those ladders were added by Dumas but there is a truth to them. They have a strikingly similar look to the ladders that were used inside the full sized Dauntless. There were a bunch of them on board, but they were all inside. The owner’s cabin had two of them. They were located in the companionway in the owner’s quarters forward and aft.(Which I believe the Dumas ladders were inspired by) Also, there was one of those ladders leading into the main cabin and two more of them in the forecastle. Believe it or not, there was yet another one of those ladders used aboard. There was actually a hatch on the floor just at the helm, where the engineer or mechanic could easily access the engine room without disturbing the owners. He would open the hatch and climb down the ladder. It is one of the few details I may leave off my model, or make the hatch static.

I am going to follow Dumas’s approach on how to make up the interior ladders for Dauntless, but am going to modify the sizes as necessary and make them from solid mahogany to look realistic.

If you note the hatch dumas instruct us to place over the main cabin was actually the hatch over the door leading into the main cabin.

So my conclusion is that Dumas did not make them up per say, but actually noted those particular details and modified their locations a bit.

Included is the S&S drawing of the ladder for the main cabin & also some ladder examples taken from existing full sized S&S yachts from the 1930’s & 40’s for reference.

-Rich.

Rich404

Without editing:


Also note, each yacht is different but all share the same characteristics. The model dauntless interior will be similar to them.


-Rich.