How to simulate planking on a plywood deck?
#1
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From: Wichita,
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Hello;
I have an old "Swordsman" boat I am refinishing. It is from the early 70's. I noticed the original "big" boats were planked. The model has 1/16" ply decking on it. What is the best way to simulate "planking" on something like this.
Thanks
Steve
I have an old "Swordsman" boat I am refinishing. It is from the early 70's. I noticed the original "big" boats were planked. The model has 1/16" ply decking on it. What is the best way to simulate "planking" on something like this.
Thanks
Steve
#2
There are several ways to simulate planking .
The easiest- Draw lines with a pencil or India Ink.
-Midwest or Northeastern Scale Lumber has scribed Basswood in various widths.
The hardest- Individual strips of wood laid side by side.
The easiest- Draw lines with a pencil or India Ink.
-Midwest or Northeastern Scale Lumber has scribed Basswood in various widths.
The hardest- Individual strips of wood laid side by side.
#3
Doc.136,
If you decide to wood plank the decks, naturecoast hobbies also has a good wood supply. You can get real mahogany or Tanganyka planks, and you can stain them to your liking. The end result looks very authentic.
http://naturecoast.com/hobby/hfit12.htm
-Rich
If you decide to wood plank the decks, naturecoast hobbies also has a good wood supply. You can get real mahogany or Tanganyka planks, and you can stain them to your liking. The end result looks very authentic.
http://naturecoast.com/hobby/hfit12.htm
-Rich
#4

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hi
i build a 5'pt boat what i did was us a wood burning tool with a sharp point and lay out the lines a us a straight edge rule to burn the lines in two passes looks great ill have to find the picture but try it on some plywood and then put in some cross lines here and there but lay it of frist so you can have even size board on each end i went with 1/2 wide rye
i build a 5'pt boat what i did was us a wood burning tool with a sharp point and lay out the lines a us a straight edge rule to burn the lines in two passes looks great ill have to find the picture but try it on some plywood and then put in some cross lines here and there but lay it of frist so you can have even size board on each end i went with 1/2 wide rye
#5
I used Magic Marker with a fine tip over laid down pencil lines. Did over a 1000 lines on 60 model boats. Then stained over that. Looked fantastic.
Rich
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Thanks for the info...I do have one more question...when you get the lines down with the ink...and then laquer or varnish over them wont they tend to er dissolve and run?
Steve
Steve
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From: Rainhillmerseyside, UNITED KINGDOM
A tip is to use a BLUNT scriber to makt the lines so it just bruses the wood and compacts it then use a fine Staedtler permanent pen (fine) get one of theones with the gold "F" on they dont run and you can even draw on glass and it wont come off, the first coat is best lightley sprayed to seal the lines. if you lay out with a soft pencill you can draw your margin and jogels first and then give a light sand to get rid of them , dont use a rubber as it leaves marks that show in the finnish.
you could always plank and use cartridge paper to show the corking I use lime or pear as it has very fine grain that does not show, below a picture of a bit of deck with lime 1.5mm thick or about 3/32" over there.
I take it you know about http://www.faireyownersclub.co.uk/ there is a good picture section on it now , you will find the decks are of a light timber
Peter
you could always plank and use cartridge paper to show the corking I use lime or pear as it has very fine grain that does not show, below a picture of a bit of deck with lime 1.5mm thick or about 3/32" over there.
I take it you know about http://www.faireyownersclub.co.uk/ there is a good picture section on it now , you will find the decks are of a light timber
Peter
#8
I find that alternating between using a SOLVENT putdown of anything. Followed by a WATERBASED next covering coat elimanates all softening & smearing problems. I have done 3 different coatings on top of 1 another this way.
I allow a week between coats.
Rich
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Ahh...waterbased!....That....makes sense....I am going to go away and try some on a scrap piece.....Here is a couple of pics of the project...It is "kinda scale"....but it is pretty much as I bought it in 1974.....(think that when I started all the wood from the first bulkhead back was rotted!)....It looks pretty much like it did in 1974...
Steve
Steve



