Tamiya Leopard 2A6
#1
Hi All,
I’ve finally finished some upgrades to my Leopard. The forward amber running lights were fairly difficult. Mostly tedious, trying to turn the acrylic rod many times to the right shape and size. The MG 3 was very difficult. My admiration for the scratch builders is off scale. I got really wrapped around the axle trying to interpret several different reference photos and the 1/35 scale Leo 2A5 part. The final mod was the Rearview Camera antenna, it was the easiest and definitely the highest satisfaction to effort ratio. I've been working with my camera resolution. Please be be patient with the multiple postings.
Birt
I’ve finally finished some upgrades to my Leopard. The forward amber running lights were fairly difficult. Mostly tedious, trying to turn the acrylic rod many times to the right shape and size. The MG 3 was very difficult. My admiration for the scratch builders is off scale. I got really wrapped around the axle trying to interpret several different reference photos and the 1/35 scale Leo 2A5 part. The final mod was the Rearview Camera antenna, it was the easiest and definitely the highest satisfaction to effort ratio. I've been working with my camera resolution. Please be be patient with the multiple postings.
Birt
#9

Yes, me too! The LEO is the epitome of the 1:16 RC tank world. How could you not love this tank. Someday. For now my HE LEO looks amazingly similar too yours even down to the mixing of the colors because mine are not straight Tamiya NATO colors either.<div> I have to find the correct file with my HE LEO and Abrams photos in them. </div>
#11
Thank you all for your compliments. There are some great modelers on this site and it sets a high bar for me.
Panther G, I did use the Tamiya acrylics XF-67,68 and 69. I also used the Testors Model Master enamels, but only on a few pieces, like the 1795 Gunmetal and FS37038 flat black on the MG3. If my overall camo colors on the model look odd, it’s because I airbrushed dry at the trigger to achieve an ultra flat. It sounds crazy, and it is not the most durable topcoat. Another modeler, who I admire very much, posted about not using the Testors Dullcoat. It’s a matte semi gloss finish. I only used it to seal the big crosses on the turret before I stopped. My topcoat is a shortcut to the hardcore accepted weathered model finish, but I’m happy.
Panther G, I did use the Tamiya acrylics XF-67,68 and 69. I also used the Testors Model Master enamels, but only on a few pieces, like the 1795 Gunmetal and FS37038 flat black on the MG3. If my overall camo colors on the model look odd, it’s because I airbrushed dry at the trigger to achieve an ultra flat. It sounds crazy, and it is not the most durable topcoat. Another modeler, who I admire very much, posted about not using the Testors Dullcoat. It’s a matte semi gloss finish. I only used it to seal the big crosses on the turret before I stopped. My topcoat is a shortcut to the hardcore accepted weathered model finish, but I’m happy.
#12
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: sandy, OR
How did you make the rear camera antenna? Do you have a close up pic of it? That's one of the last things I need to make for my Leopard.
Great job on your tank. It looks awesome.
Great job on your tank. It looks awesome.
#13
Hi Googly,
Thank you, much appreciated. Looking forward to seeing your model. The antenna shaft is .020" styrene rod, the base is .032" styrene rod drilled to #74 and the ball is the head of a Size 17 Ball Pin. I was originally going to use music wire for the shaft but I would have had to order it. The styrene isn't as delicate as I was at first concerned.
Thank you, much appreciated. Looking forward to seeing your model. The antenna shaft is .020" styrene rod, the base is .032" styrene rod drilled to #74 and the ball is the head of a Size 17 Ball Pin. I was originally going to use music wire for the shaft but I would have had to order it. The styrene isn't as delicate as I was at first concerned.
#14

I dont think they look odd at all. Like I said my colors came out very similar. The only thing I did differently was use some Tamiya Black /Green too darken the green. I do a lot of dry air brushing also. It does give it an immediate weathered look. Then I hit them with a very light dusting of buff, then some brown earth for mud if I want it that way.
#16
Hi Panther G,
I wish I was closer to New Jersey so I could visit for some weathering instruction, and to check out your fleet. My next project is to get serious about my Heng Long M41 Walker Bulldog. The weathering and coloring is my weak suit. The Tamiya Leopard was so damn expensive I can’t bring myself to experiment much on it.
Buckeye36, dry airbrushing (for me) is feathering/throttling the airbrush trigger to apply a very fine mist of paint. It’s technically weaker than a full wet coat because the drier coating with less solvent doesn’t adhere as well to the substrate.
I wish I was closer to New Jersey so I could visit for some weathering instruction, and to check out your fleet. My next project is to get serious about my Heng Long M41 Walker Bulldog. The weathering and coloring is my weak suit. The Tamiya Leopard was so damn expensive I can’t bring myself to experiment much on it.
Buckeye36, dry airbrushing (for me) is feathering/throttling the airbrush trigger to apply a very fine mist of paint. It’s technically weaker than a full wet coat because the drier coating with less solvent doesn’t adhere as well to the substrate.




