To Deans or Not To, that is the Question
#3
I am slowly making the transition to Deans, I started with my Panzer IV and my KV-1 will be next. So go deans and do not look back.
#4
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From: N.Ridgeville,
OH
or standard 4mm bullet connectors.
Speaking from mainly RC car experience, anything is better than standard molex connectors.
regards,
J
Speaking from mainly RC car experience, anything is better than standard molex connectors.
regards,
J
#5

My Feedback: (2)
Deans all the way tamiya plugs are nothing but garbage no one uses tamiya connectors in RC that demand large amp draw.
Can't go wrong with deans ... just have to have a very hot solder gun to put them together ...there are other banana type plugs like the ones losi makes that are also good and easy to solder together.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSB9616
Can't go wrong with deans ... just have to have a very hot solder gun to put them together ...there are other banana type plugs like the ones losi makes that are also good and easy to solder together.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSB9616
#8
Biggest problem with most tanks, Tamiya included, is the electrical connectors are aluminium. Just run one for 10 minutes at more than half throttle and then feel the connectors. They are hot. That's resistance. Putting in the deans plugs or clones thereof solves that problem, no heat, and more power when you need it. I also replace the stock aluminium motor wires with copper wires. However, I would not dream of opening the Tamiya DMD/TO system to replace that end of the wires, although I do cut them short.
#9
Totally Agree, go with Deans. Solid connections, less heat (poor contact with the tamiya's) but require solder skills (very basic) and a heat gun (wife's blow dryer works good.....). Otherwise, live with the Tamiya connection. But on hot summer months, you'll generate a bit of heat inside your tank and over time, your plugs will degrade.
Welcome to Tankin! - The endless money pit........
Welcome to Tankin! - The endless money pit........
#10
Senior Member
If you are going to go with Deans or not it is also important to eliminate the Tamiya connections at the "Y" connector for the DMD & MF units. It is more of a weak point and takes up way too much room in the M26. When I have several hours to kill I will change my tanks over to deans as well. I've had them sitting on the shelf waitng now for about a year (right Steve). Keep it neat and be careful when using the heat gun or blowdryer around your tank so that you don't damage any small parts. On small diameter heat shrink tubes just hold your soldering iron tip alongside and it will shrink from the radient heat.
Good luck, Bob
Good luck, Bob
#11
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From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Guys...
Most heat shrink tubing will shrink with heat from a hair dryer. It takes longer, but heck, it beats using an industrial gun and melting wire-insulation, or using the iron and accidentially touching the shrink or wires, and ending up with a hole in it somewhere.
And when in doubt, try it on a bit of scrap. And you can always slip a piece of cardboard behind whatever ya wanna shrink to act as a heat-deflector, to protect other wires. If you're doing a lot, you could even make a small box-like unit (similar to a paint-box) to contain the area to be shrunk...
Me, I make carry-straps & tie-downs from shoe-laces, but the damned nylon was melting as the shrink was activating. Answer: used a cheap Zellers Hair Dryer ($10) If your SO is gonna toss the old one out, or you 'accidentially' drop/damage it, you can always get her a new one ... *grin*
WhiteWolf
Most heat shrink tubing will shrink with heat from a hair dryer. It takes longer, but heck, it beats using an industrial gun and melting wire-insulation, or using the iron and accidentially touching the shrink or wires, and ending up with a hole in it somewhere.
And when in doubt, try it on a bit of scrap. And you can always slip a piece of cardboard behind whatever ya wanna shrink to act as a heat-deflector, to protect other wires. If you're doing a lot, you could even make a small box-like unit (similar to a paint-box) to contain the area to be shrunk...
Me, I make carry-straps & tie-downs from shoe-laces, but the damned nylon was melting as the shrink was activating. Answer: used a cheap Zellers Hair Dryer ($10) If your SO is gonna toss the old one out, or you 'accidentially' drop/damage it, you can always get her a new one ... *grin*
WhiteWolf
#13

My Feedback: (2)
ORIGINAL: Shabbernigdo
nothin in my tank draws enough amperage to really warrent the change to deans. The stock connectors never even get warm.
nothin in my tank draws enough amperage to really warrent the change to deans. The stock connectors never even get warm.
#14
My advice is NO. The deans connectors that I have, all of them tend to fall apart (some bought from Bob, some from Mitosal). Their plastic is very fragile. I'm using Tamiya mini connectors instead. They're twice as small than the standard ones.
#16

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From: Greensboro, NC
Danny, I have Deans connectors now. I should have switched to them 5 or 6 years ago! To think of all the battles I had to bow out of due to loose Tamiya connectors! Argh!!!
#17

My Feedback: (2)
ORIGINAL: EugeniRUS
My advice is NO. The deans connectors that I have, all of them tend to fall apart (some bought from Bob, some from Mitosal). Their plastic is very fragile. I'm using Tamiya mini connectors instead. They're twice as small than the standard ones.
My advice is NO. The deans connectors that I have, all of them tend to fall apart (some bought from Bob, some from Mitosal). Their plastic is very fragile. I'm using Tamiya mini connectors instead. They're twice as small than the standard ones.
#20
Deans are very reliable and robust connection, in fact besides the Battery connection all my high current connections are soldered.




